Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: A beginners' guide to aluminium anodising?|
Go ahead with anodising, it's not too difficult!
I remembered that (quite some time back) I put a picture from my first trial in my album. A small test piece, coloured with magenta Inkjet ink. I added now another two, showing parts from my tonearms. The blue parts are also done with inkjet ink, blue this time
The parts on the other arm are coloured with products from The German firm 'Electronic Thinks'
Here you can get all what you needs for your anodising projects.
Btw. I made some tests with those textile colours, but no success. It seems that only one of the different Dylon (?) products can be used, and it seems this one is difficult (or impossible) to find.
OK, here then the pictures:
|Thread: Todays Mystery Object?|
To continue with the thread drift. if you allow:
I always wondered what units one has to use for E=mc^2 to get a meaningful result. In SI units it would mean E in Joule, mass in kg, c in metres per second... but is this correct?
|Thread: Cataracts [ocular, not Hardinge]|
it's a bit depressing to read about all that successful cataract operations. So I can keep the balance to show one which went belly-up.
About 5 years ago my eye doc found it necessary to talk me into a cataract surgery. I had the usual fears, but finally succumbed and went ahead. But afterwards I had the feeling that something was wrong. Straight lines were not straight, circles were more like eggs, all persons on TV had flat head sides etc. etc. Naturally I immediately cancelled the second surgery date. A long series of tests followed, culminating in a second surgery in which the glass body in my eye was removed. Unfortunately the success was almost nil.
The upper wavy line is the retina surface. Maybe you can understand a bit what kind of 'picture quality' results from that. A further problem is that part of my short-sightedness was corrected with the artificial lens, so I have now two very different apparent picture sizes in my eyes, which somehow the brain tries to overlay. Estimating distances is quite difficult now.
I don't want to bring panic an all those who stand for that decision, but unfortunately the docs never tell what can go wrong. 999 out of 1000 come out well, but if you happen to be the one...
|Thread: silver solder|
Roderick is absolutely correct, Castolin/Eutectic 1801 is equivalent to the famous Easyflow. Luckily it is still available without problems here in Switzerland. Maybe you will get it back after Brexit?
|Thread: Dropbox is still working on XP!|
I don't want to clutter thhe ER thread with unrelated stuff, but want to clarify something.
When reading what Dropbox sent out in this mail, they say that 'support for the desktop application for XP' has stopped - whatever that is.
However, at the end of the mail they write also, that one can still access Dropbox data 'from their website'.
That's what I did just some days ago. Log in on the website, and after getting accustomed to the forms I had no problems to upload some files. I think that could be important to know for other guys like me who stubbornly stay on XP.
|Thread: How To Lose Friends and Alienate People|
...or Sieg as Seig, as so many ignorants do here?
|Thread: MEW renewal problem|
Neil, for your information - and for others maybe hitting on the same problem - I can report that I could enter my subscription successfully, using my laptop with Windows 8.1 and Opera 38.0.
No reason to dismiss that combination, nonetheless.
Oh well - the same problem as Vincent's has hit me also today. Browsing through the answers, I don't see what cured it for him, finally (I did not tick 'rest of the world' !).
Trying to subscribe via the button on this webpage results in the same error message, but the price is about 2£ higher...
>>> Sorry, we are currently unable to complete your order because either we don't ship to your country or you have products with mixed payment types in your basket.
Nasty, really, as I have MEW since issue 0 (or maybe 3),. And mixed payment types? what would that be?
First thought was : oh, another Opera problem. So next try with Firefox, but again the same.
How progress is wonderful - I can't remember when I had to do that last time.
|Thread: Sulphuric Acid for anodising|
I think I wrote this in another -earlier - thread about anodising, so I keep it short.
Here, Sulfuric acid (concentrated) is available in shops called Drogerie; according to my translator this might be chemist or drugstore. Similar to a pharmacy, but without prescription medication.
In shops of the do-it-yourself type, department for swimming pools, there are products for lowering the pH of the water, Here again, pH- liquid is sufluric acid of around 12 +/- 2 %.There is also a cristalline pH-, Sodium hydrogene sulfate (NaHSO4), which is also suitable for anodising. The Na ions don't do any harm...
As an aside, inkjet printer ink is suitable for colouring. Be prudent with the Dylon dyes, there is only one type suitable. Don't ask how I know, what I bought was totally crap for that purpose.
|Thread: Benedict Cumberbatch featured on Cover of MEW 243|
Bit off topic, I know...
But I was quite surprised to see that - again - an article features these (in)famous SEIG lathes
|Thread: program for simple drawing|
May I (once again I think) recommend SolveSpace
Not a 'real' CAD program with all bells and whistles, but very suitable for such small drawings.
Yes, it is necessary to read a bit in the manual and doing the examples, but it is very easy in most cases. Help is available from the author directly if necessary.
I would gladly demonstrate it if speelwerk's drawing had dimensions...
Edited By Versaboss on 18/05/2016 23:40:40
|Thread: Which plastic to bond to brass.|
I would also like a bit more proof that Polycarbonate can be glued well. It might depend of the type of glue - I dunno.
Btw. many of the 'non-gluable' plastics (PP, PE. Nylon) can be glued quite well, when they receive the correct treatment before.
Kind regards, Hans-R.
|Thread: Wouldn't it be nice|
Interesting that nobody seems to know that drills with constant diameter shafts are available. Not cheap I admit, but these I have have almost eternal life.
Like these e.g:
|Thread: a replacement tool to cut sheet steel.|
Seems that I owe you something Roger, so here it is. Just as a test I did two cuts with the angle-grinder blade, one in a scrap bracket from 1.5 mm steel, the other a piece of 15 mm square steel. Both cuts done in say 5-10 seconds, I did not measure the time.The parts stay completely cool, and the (very small) chips are natural colour also.
Then again came the difficulty to photograph these parts, in my pictures steel never looks like steel. May be the LED lighting has something to do with that?
Today you can get circular saws for angle grinders and hand held saws which cut every material, including steel.
I use two (large and small) of these Kaindl products, they do what they say:
|Thread: Collet Identification and info wanted please.|
Too bad you did not give more informations: total length, angle of head,keyway or not, thread metric or imp., normal or sawtooth...
In my eyes they look suspiciously like W25 collets. .
Some numbers for these: length 97.6 mm, head dia. 33.7 mm, thread (very special! sawtooth) dia, 24.7mm / 15 tpi with angles 45/5 deg., head angle 15°, keyway 5 mm
Hope this can help?
|Thread: New lathe arrived today : The ongoing saga|
As you usually use a boring tool to make a hole bigger, I don't see what you mean with this question. Do you want to open 8.9 mm up to 8.95? For anything bigger your question makes no sense.
Anyway, when you (or someone else) wants to bore really small holes, there are wonderful one-piece carbide tools around. Like these e.g.:
Edited By Versaboss on 17/11/2015 10:40:40
|Thread: What is the strongest way to bond styrene to polyethylene|
I can recommend the method given by David Jupp. A short waving with a gas burner until the surface looks shiny, and then gluing with a good cyanoacrilate worked perfectly for me. I have to mention that my stuff was possibly polypropylene, and black! I have lots of this stuff in about 25 mm thickness, and I needed a much thicker part for a connecting piece to the shop-vac. Still holds after several years of rough treatment!
|Thread: New lathe arrived today : The ongoing saga|
Just went back to #1 in this thread and saw it was on Aug. 25th. Now we have Oct. 25th, so two months of almost daily entertainment. Long may it continue - it is always the first one I have a look at when I click the site.
To add something (hopefully) positive to this story, I'm quite sure that the application of a good file in strategic points would help a lot. Scraping would be over the top, both for the lathe and for Brian
Frank, may be you should add that the locking tab is the corner which is separated from the rest by a saw cut, aand also that it is the smaller part...
|Thread: Drilling big holes in 304 stainless steel|
1500 rpm, dia. 20 mm in stainless??? That's about 10 times too fast, imho. No wonder your drills get blunt!
Blacksmith's drills are maybe not the highest quality, but a substantial boring bar (12 mm) should have no problem, especially if you use a sharp (so-called 'Aluminium' insert.. Or even a good, sharp HSS boring bar...
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.