Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What type of "plastic" rod machines best?|
Gents, I think you have forgotten another important type of plastic, PET (aka PETP or Mylar). As I have a little stock of that stuff and also of Delrin, I can say that they are quite similar in the mechanical properties and machinability. About PET it is said that its water absorption is very low.
Maybe there is some confusion or mix-up here???
Acetal resins (and Nylon too) are also available oil-impregnated for bearings.
|Thread: Pillar Drill (Britool No. 10)|
Sam, you cannot post where the picture is ON YOUR COMPUTER , you have to upload it to the photo area of this forum or use the 'insert image' button (second from right)!
|Thread: Choice of small milling machine|
I think I have to clarify that: As many of the mailing list members are in the USA, the price was quoted in Dollars. But the buyer lives in London, and it was stated that it was a Warco mill.
I have heard that Mr. Warren is a nice guy, but his employees are highly incompetent (to say it halfway polite)
Now I will lean far out of the window and say that - if I were in the position of Robin, - I would have a deep look at the Sieg mills from ARC The X3 seems to be in the same price range.
Sorry if I have to issue a warning here.
About a month ago I got a message (on a ME mailing list) from a person who bought a WM-14. I cannot do better than copy some of the sentences there; you have to find out for yourself if it bothers you or not.
>I bought a "cheep" Warco WM14 Chinese manufactured (i.e. c. 800+ USD) milling machine at the beginning of the year, and it is a huge disappointment. The X and Y lead screws are so rough and uneven that it is impossible to adjust out the backlash, and they are a bastardized half imperial half metric size too.
>I never finished assembling it as it isn't worth trying to use for the
minimal accuracy I want and so it just sits there taking up valuable
>And no, I didn't get an "Individual accuracy test report with each machine" as promised on their sales sheet.
>The mill is small enough that .... the cutting action of all but the smallest tooling will be enough to move the table about.
Maybe you have the opportunity to check out the mill you will get before you put the cash on the counter. I disclose the information above in the best intent to help you.
Edited By Versaboss on 20/12/2009 22:42:22
|Thread: Milling Tools|
let me add my 2cts here.
- Parallels: while ball race rings are ok for using on the table, I think in a vice you need (a few) pairs of rectangular bars, of different heights (less than the vice's jaws) and 2 - 6 mm thick. In most cases even mild steel pieces are good enough (measure them!)
- Boring head: beware of the ubiquitous '2" Boring Head' with Morse 2 shank. The one I bought some years ago is totally unusable. Make the G. Thomas head, it's a 100 times better!
Good luck, Hansrudolf (the Versaboss)
|Thread: Milling on a lathe|
Sorry Chris, if I misinterpreted the "recommended". My excuse: it was a bit late in the night. Yes, we don't disagree.
Greetings, Versaboss (Hansrudolf)
Chris oh Chris, (to repeat your opener),
yes I am not a proper engineer. But I know one thing: ER collets have been invented (in Switzerland as far as I know) for toolholding. What do you think that all those ten-thousands of CNC mills use? And the idea that toolholding requires less precision than workholding - naa, I don't think so. When a end mill has runout, then how on earth do you know the correct tool diameter compensation?
|Thread: Help with book|
|Hi Dunc,on first sight it was not clear for me which bools are sold on that amazun address.|
the small booklet I mentioned is only about the tools. There is not much difference between lathe and shaper tools, except the latter are usually much sturdier. There are left and right knife tools and round-nosed tools for finishing cuts. A special tool (not often mentioned in the literature is like a round-nosed tool with a large radius, but the cutting edge is turned 45 degrees to the line of the ram movement. Easier to see than to describe!
The other book is mostly about the machines and describes them from Drummond, Cowell, Perfecto to Acorn. The last one builds the bridge to Boxford, Elliot and South Bend. The book describes also the tools, the operations and some additions (eg. automatic downfeed).
|Thread: lathe tool cutting oils|
|@Jacob Ouden:If you allow me to give an advice: don't fall into the trap with Garia H. Times have changed a lot since GHT's writings. I also believed in that, many years ago, and bought a 25 liter drum (the smallest amount) of that stuff. This is now tucked away safely in a dark corner. I don't think I used more than 2 or 3 litres. According to the Shell literature it is a 'deep hole boring oil' possibly used on those machines by high pressure flushing through hollow drills. It is thin, possibly contains sulfur compounds and smokes and smells like hell when hot. If you were nearer, I would gladly fill up any bottle you bring!|
You may ask, what I use now. Well, it depends, and I always like to try out new stuff.
So, as water soluble oil ('suds') Rocol Ultracut 370+. Very economical (3%), and the machines neither rust nor discolor as sometimes with other products.
As 'straight oils', for Alu Tapmatic Alufluid. For stainless steel Rocol RTD or CoolToolII. for ordinary steel Motorex TwinCut 300. And quite a few other products have a place on my shelf...as I said I like a change.
|I just accidentally discovered this thread, and the mist cleared when I saw the names 'Henrob' and 'Dillon'. Yes, I also have such a set, and also bought it after it was recommended in the model-engineering mailing list. It really is the 'poor man's TIG'.|
Btw, it is the low oxygene pressure which makes the difference, not the acetylene. My 'standard' burners need 2.5 bar ox. pressure against 0.3 for the Dillon. That results in a much 'softer' flame. And yes, for me at least is the blowing away of the puddle a probem.
'short burner length': an extension tube is available. For silver soldering a 7 1/4" loco boiler you are better off with a special soldering tip on a standard torch
'for thinner materials only': yes, but as others said over 5 mm I would use stick. I have got (at the recommendation of the vendor) some special tips for the really thin stuff.
I got mine from the manufacturer in Sweden (Skandria AB), and it was a bit pricey (+/- 600 Euro iirc).
Sorry I yust discovered that their webpage is deleted, but they are still mentioned in one of the other sites.
My contact (last in 2007) was Lars-Göran östergren, email firstname.lastname@example.org
|Thread: Help with book|
not sure if I understand your problem correctly. There is a small booklet by Bradley, named 'Shaping Machine and Lathe Tools' . My issue is from 1976 (5th reprint it seems). It even has a ISBN number: 0 85242 485 X. Published by MAP Technical publication
I. Bradley wrote also another book 'The Shaping Machine' , also by MAP, 1973. ISBN 0 85242 323 3
MAP and Argus are the same.
Now if my memory is not totally corrupted, Mr. Bradley was one half of the Duplex team???
If you are interested in a shaper and have the room for it and can get one cheaply, then take it. Otherwise it is by no means a necessary machine, just 'nice to have'. There are quite a lot of websites about shapers and their uses. Now where did I put these green pills which have such a good effect on my memory?
|Thread: Subscribers only|
after complaining several times that I, as a subscriber to both MEW and ME, can only see the MEW back issues on this website, I now have the pleasure to announce that this suddenly has changed!
I am really delighted that I now also belong to the selected group of fully-flrdged members.
|Thread: Current Issue?|
#155 arrived in Switzerland on Sept. 3rd. also. That the number on the envelope is wrong is known for a long time. Imperial numbering maybe?
|Thread: Subscribers only|
Thanks for the answer. In my case it unfortunately doesn't work. I can see MEW down to #122, then a bit of white page and some ad's to the end. Not that I really need them, as I have all in dead tree form, but nevertheless it is a bit disappointing.
I would like to know if there are subscribers to both ME and MEW who can view back issues from both magazines? If yes, how can you switch from one to the other? I see only the MEW issues.
Addendum to my posting from 17/08. The 'other place' I mentioned was 'The Tool Box Ltd.' in Colyton, and I am pleased that I got an answer with an apology for the delay, and yes they have the issue I missed, and 2 days after my phone call saying 'yes, send it please' the gap in my collection is filled up!!!
Just a very satisfied customer...
|Thread: What's going on.|
Patience for how long? I don't see anything loading.
Maybe the answer to the topic question is 'nothing' ?
|Thread: Subscribers only|
after lurking here for a while I registered today as subscriber. I get both ME and MEW, and the subscriber number(s) are the same. However, when I go into the 'back issues' section, I see only MEW. According to some previous posts, there should also be a section for ME?
And if you wonder why: I am searching issue 4273 from 12. may 2006, which possibly never reached me. Neither MyHobbyStore nor another place known as supplier for back issues bothered to answer my e-mail inquiry
Greetings to all,
Edited By Versaboss on 17/08/2009 22:28:11
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