Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: drill sharpening|
on my Meteor drill grinding machine (for small drills, from 3 mm down) I use a primary angle between 4 and 7 deg. (4 for hard materials, 7 for soft stuff). The secondary angle is given by an end stop around 24 deg. Istr that I have seen similar values somewhere in ME (Chaddock article about drill grinding on the Quorn perhaps?), and think that a third angle would be over 40 deg. Take this with a grain of salt, maybe my memory ain't what it once was
|Thread: 2-stroke timing|
I seem to remember that on such motors the flywheel could sit on a conical part of the crankshaft, and there is a Woodruffe key on that conical area. So maybe you don't see it, unless you remove the flywheel!
As there is something wrong anyway, you cannot make it worse if you do.
|Thread: 2 questions - threading silver steel; tightening bar in the chuck|
BIG oops Terryd, now you are talking about metres and not millimeters. Also you use the american billion, which on this side usually is called a milliard (1000 millions = 10**9)
OUR billion is 10**12
(or maybe you are American???)
I admit in speaking about things financial the differences get a bit blurred in the last years But there is hope as long as it not gets near to a googol...
Hmm, it seems no one mentioned the fact that some aluminium alloys are 'not suitable for anodising'. I don't know what HE30 is and if it is ok or not, but know for certain that I can't use all the alloys my supplier has if the parts have to be anodised later. I suppose this means also that they can't be coloured.
Checking the descriptions in my catalogue, I find the following alloys recommended for anodising:
Unsuitable or bad are:
For some alloys I see no recommendations. It seems the alloys with copper are the bad ones.
I hope that this is of some help
|Thread: Choice of small milling machine|
Hi David, thanks for submitting the data of the test report. Yes, I get the impression that all is ok.
As some months ago I heard about a complaint from someone about the 'strange and unequal' spindle pitches (see posting from 20.12.09) , I make my question a bit clearer:
- what are the pitches (in mm or TPI) of the x, the y and possibly also the z spindles?
Re. the backlash: either put a DTI plunger on the table, move forward to a convenient number on the DTI and check then on the graduated scale how much you can turn back until the table starts to move again.
If you have no DTI, but the mill has a table lock, just lock the table and check again how much you can turn the handle without force.. I really hope this description is clear enough.
I hope I am right in assuming that the new model of this mill is much better than the old one.
|Thread: Ball Nose Mill Cutter, did I break it?|
Hmm, KWIL, what do you think the ER system was invented for? These collets are used on umpteen thousands of professional machines. In theory you may be right, but in practice that never happens, when the collet nut is closed correctly and the cutter sits completely in the collet.
The danger of the pull-out is much higher in the 'one-sided' collets like the W-types or the C-types from the U.S.
|Thread: Choice of small milling machine|
I would be very interested if you would give a short report, especially about the WM-14, when all is installed. Please check lead and backlash of the spindles, and are all the same? Did you get that famous individual test report, and what does it say? etc. etc...
In the meantime I wish a good stay in Geneva; unfortunately a bit far from me.
|Thread: Pop-up for digital.|
Well, well, and that even before noon!!! Congratulations!
I can only add myself too. P.G Shaw said it before better than I can. I usually go back to the 'homepage, because there I see the full list of latest postings, and it is a nuisance now
But be honest, my dear Brits: let's give them a little time. Isn't it so that you cannot expect too much from British businesses say, between Thursday teatime and Monday noon?
|Thread: 2 questions - threading silver steel; tightening bar in the chuck|
It seems you have a strange problem here. Would you mind to disclose the type of lathe you have? I cannot understand that a floppy thread can give the results you describe. As soon as the nut is tightened, the stud is under tension, and all floppyness should disappear I think.
But resting the toolpost on a nut is definitely a no-no!
Boring the 19.5 mm hole - yes you should not use a drill; btw drills in this size usually have a Morse 2 shaft. But this 'cut' of less than a thou makes me again think that something is fundamentally wrong. Even ten times as much is not a heavy cut.
But it is difficult to make a diagnosis without seeing the setup.
Material suppliers in Switzerland - well 'it depends'. Pestalozzi in Dietikon sells also really small quantities, but you should fetch it yourself in their warehouse. They deliver only by truck, and that's expensive. Now if you happen to live in Geneva then this is not a good idea I admit. The only other way I can suggest is to find a nearby mechanical shop and ask politely...
Ah, and the thread form tool? You don't have the chip inserts in mind, do you? In a lifelong time of hobby tinkering and 10 years of semi-professional machining I never felt the urge to use them. And on a 'floppy' lathe--I would know better means to burn money. Most of my threading is done with tools made from these ubiquitous 'broken center drills' (used in a GHT retracting holder, worth its weight in gold).
Greetings, Hansrudolf (from central Switzerland)
|Thread: Newest EU legislation|
Not to mention all that CO2, specially from burning cast iron...
G, d&r... Hansrudolf
|Thread: "Precision" or "does NOT do what it says on the tin"|
Hmm, did I get something wrong here too? Afaik a C type collet has a very similar form to the more usual W types in use here in my country. I was thinking that these collets are centralized by the front cone and not by the tail end ( which anyway finally is guided by the draw tube). I never checked the tail diameters of my collets (and the inside spindle dia. of the lathe), maybe I will have to do that...
|Thread: Suggestion: Forums - to Improve Readability|
To add my little contribution to the wish list:
The logout field - worst I have ever seen !
first, on my display it almost drops out off the right border.
second, for my aging eyes black letters in a dark green field are almost invisible.
So please make it bold, larger and in a white field (and an inch more to the left) please!!!
Or inverse (white) as in the topics titles!
|Thread: Cad for complete beginners (CAD for idiots)|
Ray, much of what I wanted to say was already mentioned. I also used a version of TurboCad (about 15 years ago) and was not happy. Maybe the newer versions have changed a lot, I don't know. However, for 2D CAD I would strongly suggest to have a look at AllyCad (www.allycad.com). This is the successor of ChoiceCad and DraftChoice, as mentioned by P.G. Shaw. A somewhat limited (in size of output file) version is free.
For 3D I use Alibre. I think everybody who used once a parametric program is spoiled forever. But I have to say that sometimes this program drives me nuts. To mention a few of MY troubles, e.g.:
- placing a drilled hole at an exact position is very complicated to say the least
- moving a 3D model around so it is in a meaningful orientation is trial and error and luck.
- sometimes certain operations don't work the way they are described in the tutorials, and there is no way to find out why
That said, I use it (not very often, so that might be part of my problems) and don't know of anything better. Well I never tried that DesignCad....
|Thread: Drill chuck runout|
Robin, to be honest I don't think that's a job for a cheap drilling machine, unless you have a means to position the workpiece exactly (eg. a x-y table). I also don't think that a Jacobs chuck is much better than a Röhm, at least I suppose it is not a chuck salvaged from an old hand drill?
But to give you some constructive ideas:
- use a center drill, best a so-called NC center drill (the Slocombe (?) drills are for doing centers to put a lathe center in)
- use a self-centering drill, either a 4-facet or one with a split point. These have no chisel edge which can wander around on a flat surface, but a really sharp point in the center.
- doing it in the lathe would be a good idea also; either by first centering it in a 4-jaw (and then only releasing one jaw to change the workpiece), or mounting it with suitable shims and stops on the cross-slide.
I hope this can be helpful
|Thread: Very basic milling questions|
It is usual practice to calculate the 'tooth load' or 'cut per tooth' when milling. Say you have a 4-tooth cutter rotating at 500 rpm, that's 2000 cuts per minute. A fine cut is maybe 0.05 mm, so you get a maximal feedrate of 2000.x 0.05 = 100 mm/min.
But I confess when milling aluminium I usually just turn the handle as fast as I can !
|Thread: Thread notation|
KWIL, I would like very much to know which metric diameter has seven pitches as a norm or standard. Sure with your statement you don't mean that a given diameter can be threaded with any pitch your lathe is able to do; the same misuse would also be possible in the imperial system.
Btw, the common metric threads are simply called Mxx; all others are MFyy x pitch. Isn't this the same as BSW versus BSF or UNC versus UNF?
|Thread: What type of STEEL?|
Thanks Circlip and JasonB, so I think we should propose that David uses the MEW pages for something more useful?
Hi David, would it be asking too much if a cross-comparison to some international nomenclature could be made? I'm sorry the EN numbers are totally useless outside GB. I think the most detailed ones would be the W-numbers (eg . the 'ordinaryl' stainless steel is W-nr. 1.4301) or (more complicated, I admit) the nomenclature referencing the composition (same stainless = X 5 CrNi 18/9 or the free-cutting leaded steel is 9 S Mn Pb 28).
These designations I pulled from my supplier's catalogue.
Same problem with Aluminium. The T-numbers as common in USA - unknown here. When I buy aluminium profiles it is called AlMgSi0.5 There are some other qualities, but this is the most used stuff
I am sure digging in the Internet can solve most of these mysteries, but something written would be useful I think
|Thread: Drawing projection, first or third?|
I think I have to drop in here too. Like P.G. Shaw, I cannot draw manually (and not much better with CAD!).
But in the last 10 years I saw a lot of drawings for parts I had to produce, and these were always in first angle. Sure I first had to look at the definitions in Wikipedia to be sure.
The way I was teached to look at them was like that (hope I can explain it clearly):
Lay the part on any of the 3 views, so that the picture corresponds with what you see. Then tilt the part over to the 2nd drawing, and tilt again to the 3rd.
With tilt I mean e.g. keep the edge on the paper and rotate the part 90 degrees around that edge. All clarity removed now... For me this method is intuitive also.
Well, no matter how it is done in 'our papers', but - as others said before - it should be marked clearly.
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