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Member postings for Versaboss

Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Drill chuck runout
16/03/2010 22:25:34

Robin, to be honest I don't think that's a job for a cheap drilling machine, unless you have a means to position the workpiece exactly (eg. a x-y table). I also don't think that a Jacobs chuck is much better than a Röhm, at least I suppose it is not a chuck salvaged from an old hand drill?

But to give you some constructive ideas:

- use a center drill, best a so-called NC center drill (the Slocombe (?) drills are for doing centers to put a lathe center in)

- use a self-centering drill, either a 4-facet or one with a split point. These have no chisel edge which can wander around on a flat surface, but a really sharp point in the center.

- doing it in the lathe would be a good idea also; either by first centering it in a 4-jaw (and then only releasing one jaw to change the workpiece), or mounting it with suitable shims and stops on the cross-slide.

I hope this can be helpful

Greetings, Hansrudolf

Thread: Very basic milling questions
13/03/2010 19:23:00

It is usual practice to calculate the 'tooth load' or 'cut per tooth' when milling. Say you have a 4-tooth cutter rotating at 500 rpm, that's 2000 cuts per minute. A fine cut is maybe 0.05 mm, so you get a maximal feedrate of  2000.x 0.05 = 100 mm/min.

But I confess when milling aluminium I usually just turn the handle as fast as I can !

Greetings, Hansrudolf

Thread: Thread notation
07/03/2010 15:00:28

KWIL, I would like very much to know which metric diameter has seven pitches as a norm or standard. Sure with your statement you don't mean that a given diameter can be threaded with any pitch your lathe is able to do; the same misuse would also be possible in the imperial system.

Btw, the common metric threads are simply called Mxx; all others are MFyy x pitch. Isn't this the same as BSW versus BSF or UNC versus UNF?

Greetings, Hansrudolf

Thread: What type of STEEL?
06/03/2010 14:38:30

Thanks Circlip and JasonB, so I think we should propose that David uses the MEW pages for something more useful?

Greetings, Hansrudolf

05/03/2010 18:48:53

Hi David, would it be asking too much if a cross-comparison to some international nomenclature could be made? I'm sorry the EN numbers are totally useless outside GB. I think the most detailed ones would be the W-numbers (eg . the 'ordinaryl' stainless steel is W-nr. 1.4301) or (more complicated, I admit) the nomenclature referencing the composition (same stainless = X 5 CrNi 18/9 or the free-cutting leaded steel is 9 S Mn Pb 28).

These designations I pulled from my supplier's catalogue.

Same problem with Aluminium. The T-numbers as common in USA - unknown here. When I buy aluminium profiles it is called AlMgSi0.5 There are some other qualities, but this is the most used stuff 

I am sure digging in the Internet can solve most of these mysteries, but something written would be useful I think

Greetings, Hansrudolf

Thread: Drawing projection, first or third?
24/02/2010 15:53:38

Hi all,

I think I have to drop in here too. Like P.G. Shaw, I cannot draw manually (and not much better with CAD!).

But in the last 10 years I saw a lot of drawings for parts I had to produce, and these were always in first angle. Sure I first had to look at the definitions in Wikipedia to be sure.

The way I was teached to look at them was like that (hope I can explain it clearly):

Lay the part on any of the 3 views, so that the picture corresponds with what you see. Then tilt the part over to the 2nd drawing, and tilt again  to the 3rd.

With tilt I mean e.g. keep the edge on the paper and rotate the part 90 degrees around that edge. All clarity removed now... For me this method is intuitive also.

Well, no matter how it is done in 'our papers', but - as others said before - it should be marked clearly.

Greetings, Hansrudolf

Thread: diamond grinding wheels
10/02/2010 13:10:30

Jomac/John, are the wheels you looked at resin-bonded wheels or galvanic coated ones? A resin bonded with mesh 200 (according to the table I gave above around  D76) is quite fine, but I think would be ok for end mills. For galvanic coated ones I would consider it coarse! I have the lapping plates from ARC Euro trade with grit 600 and 1200, these are perfect for lathe tools.

Greetings, Hansrudolf


Thread: Boring Question
10/02/2010 12:55:47

No problems with long lines here too with Opera.

Greetings, Hansrudolf

Thread: diamond grinding wheels
09/02/2010 22:16:27
Posted by meyrick griffith-jones on 09/02/2010 18:06:36:
...... 
 
Also are diamond grit sizes equivalent to ordinary oxide sizes
 
....

 Yes and no. Sometimes the grit size is given in mesh size, eg lapping plates or sticks in grit 600 or 1200. But for wheels usually the FEPA numbers are used: D91, D151 ...

The higher this number, the coarser the grain!

The same system, but with the letter B instead of D, is used for CBN wheels

A small comparison table is here:

http://www.diamondtoolmfg.com/grit.php


Greetings, Hansrudolf


Thread: Address format changed?
22/01/2010 10:31:44
Today the MEW issue 160 was in my letterbox. It seems that the address stamp was changed to a much better readable bold font (the old one was a PITA!). But now the place where I live has disappeared, and someone along the distribution channel had to find out where I live and correct the address manually with a ball pen (which does not work too good on that silvery plastic).
I e-mailed the subscription dept., hope that's the right place!

Greetings, Hansrudolf
Thread: What type of "plastic" rod machines best?
09/01/2010 16:49:45

Gents, I think you have forgotten another important type of plastic, PET (aka PETP or Mylar). As I have a little stock of that stuff and also of Delrin, I can say that they are quite similar in the mechanical properties and machinability. About PET it is said that its water absorption is very low.

Maybe there is some confusion or mix-up here???

Acetal resins (and Nylon too) are also available oil-impregnated for bearings.

Greetings, Hansrudolf

Thread: Pillar Drill (Britool No. 10)
21/12/2009 17:18:43

Sam, you cannot post where the picture is ON YOUR COMPUTER , you have to upload it to the photo area of this forum or use the 'insert image' button (second from right)! 

Hansrudolf

Thread: Choice of small milling machine
21/12/2009 12:33:56

@Martin W:

I think I have to clarify that: As many of the mailing list members are in the USA, the price was quoted in Dollars. But the buyer lives in London, and it was stated that it was a Warco mill.

I have heard that Mr. Warren is a nice guy, but his employees are highly incompetent (to say it halfway polite)

Now I will lean far out of the window and say that - if I were in the position of Robin, - I would have a deep look at the Sieg mills from ARC The X3 seems to be in the same price range.

20/12/2009 22:41:53

Hi Robin,

Sorry if I have to issue a warning here.

About a month ago I got a message (on a ME mailing list) from a person who bought a WM-14. I cannot do better than copy some of the sentences there; you have to find out for yourself if it bothers you or not.

>I bought a "cheep" Warco WM14 Chinese manufactured (i.e. c. 800+ USD) milling machine at the beginning of the year, and it is a huge disappointment. The X and Y lead screws are so rough and uneven that it is impossible to adjust out the backlash, and they are a bastardized half imperial half metric size too.

...

 >I never finished assembling it as it isn't worth trying to use for the minimal accuracy I want and so it just sits there taking up valuable space.

...

>And no, I didn't get an "Individual accuracy test report with each machine" as promised on their sales sheet.  

...

>The mill is small enough that .... the cutting action of all but the smallest tooling will be enough to move the table about.  


Maybe you have the opportunity to check out the mill you will get before you put the cash on the counter. I disclose the information above in the best intent to help you.

Greetings, Hansrudolf

Edited By Versaboss on 20/12/2009 22:42:22

Thread: Milling Tools
27/11/2009 13:53:57

let me add my 2cts here.

- Parallels: while ball race rings are ok for using on the table, I think in a vice you need (a few) pairs of rectangular bars, of different heights (less than the vice's jaws) and 2 - 6 mm thick. In most cases even mild steel pieces are good enough (measure them!)

- Boring head: beware of the ubiquitous '2" Boring Head' with Morse 2 shank. The one I bought some years ago is totally unusable. Make the G. Thomas head, it's a 100 times better!

Good luck, Hansrudolf (the Versaboss)

Thread: Milling on a lathe
13/11/2009 20:15:11

Sorry Chris, if I misinterpreted the "recommended". My excuse: it was a bit late in the night. Yes, we don't disagree.

Greetings, Versaboss (Hansrudolf)

13/11/2009 00:15:32

Chris oh Chris, (to repeat your opener),

yes I am not a proper engineer. But I know one thing: ER collets have been invented (in Switzerland as far as I know) for toolholding. What do you think that all those ten-thousands of CNC mills use? And the idea that toolholding requires less precision than workholding - naa, I don't think so. When a end mill has runout, then how on earth do you know the correct tool diameter compensation?

Greetings, Versaboss

Thread: Help with book
06/10/2009 10:58:15
Hi Dunc,on first sight it was not clear for me which bools are sold on that amazun address.
the small booklet I mentioned is only about the tools. There is not much difference between lathe and shaper tools, except the latter are usually much sturdier. There are left and right knife tools and round-nosed tools for finishing cuts. A special tool (not often mentioned in the literature is like a round-nosed tool with a large radius, but the cutting edge is turned 45 degrees to the line of the ram movement. Easier to see than to describe!

The other book is mostly about the machines and describes them from Drummond, Cowell, Perfecto to Acorn. The last one builds the bridge to Boxford, Elliot and South Bend. The book describes also the tools, the operations and some additions (eg. automatic downfeed).
Greetings

Thread: lathe tool cutting oils
06/10/2009 10:44:49
@Jacob Ouden:If you allow me to give an advice: don't fall into the trap with Garia H. Times have changed a lot since GHT's writings. I also believed in that, many years ago, and bought a 25 liter drum (the smallest amount) of that stuff. This is now tucked away safely in a dark corner. I don't think I used more than 2 or 3 litres. According to the Shell literature it is a 'deep hole boring oil' possibly used on those machines by high pressure flushing through hollow drills. It is thin, possibly contains sulfur compounds and smokes and smells like hell when hot. If you were nearer, I would gladly fill up any bottle you bring!

You may ask, what I use now. Well, it depends, and I always like to try out new stuff.
So, as water soluble oil ('suds') Rocol Ultracut 370+. Very economical (3%), and the machines neither rust nor discolor as sometimes with other products.
As 'straight oils', for Alu Tapmatic Alufluid. For stainless steel Rocol RTD or CoolToolII. for ordinary steel Motorex TwinCut 300. And quite a few other products have a place on my shelf...as I said I like a change.
Greetings


Thread: welding
06/10/2009 10:25:20
I just accidentally discovered this thread, and the mist cleared when I saw the names 'Henrob' and 'Dillon'. Yes, I also have such a set, and also bought it after it was recommended in the model-engineering mailing list. It really is the 'poor man's TIG'.
Btw, it is the low oxygene pressure which makes the difference, not the acetylene. My 'standard' burners need 2.5 bar ox. pressure against 0.3 for the Dillon. That results in a much 'softer' flame. And yes, for me at least is the blowing away of the puddle a probem.

Furter issues:
'short burner length': an extension tube is available. For silver soldering a 7 1/4" loco boiler you are better off with a special soldering tip on a standard torch
'for thinner materials only': yes, but as others said over 5 mm I would use stick. I have got (at the recommendation of the vendor) some special tips for the really thin stuff.

I got mine from the manufacturer in Sweden (Skandria AB), and it was a bit pricey (+/- 600 Euro iirc).
Sorry I yust discovered that their webpage is deleted, but they are still mentioned in one of the other sites.
My contact (last in 2007) was Lars-Göran östergren, email lars@scandria.se


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