Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Milling Chucks|
Or get one from here, Merry Miller! :
and the collets also...
No vested interest, just a satisfied customer here. At the moment the 3rd order from me is under way. You can't beat these prices...
|Thread: Vertical Centering?|
Nothing hinders you to use the edge finder on the side of the round bar. Or: chuck a straight round piece of steel in the spindle and touch the side of the bar (cigarette paper test). Then add the 2 radii and move this distance.
Almost as long-winded as your description of what is usually called cross-drilling.
Happy New Year, Hansrudolf
|Thread: Making a large internal lap for one off job?|
Dusty, using Timesaver lapping compound would prevent the problem you mention. This stuff breaks completely down and leaves no grit in the cast iron. Afaik Timesaver is available in England (and USA, naturally). Google may help.
|Thread: HSS v Carbide Tipped Tools|
in this thread I found 2 things which I think have not been discussed adequately.
The first.: nobody asked what the OP (Mr. Harris) meant with his 'carbide tipped tools'. Possibly the ones with brazed on tips and not the indexable chips? I too think that the former are almost good for nothing, except maybe roughing out some cast iron chunk. I had once a couple which were (diamond) ground to a mirror shine and very sharp. That was another story, but over time I managed to damage them too and had lost the access to that grinding service.
And the second: I found it strange that some postings gave the impression that with carbide (inserts) you have to take deep cuts and need a lot of power.
One of the jobs I have to do is the following: on a stainless hex screw, M5 and with a shaft length of 14 mm, the thread is turned down to a dia. of 3.5 mm and then a 60 deg. point turned on the end. The screw is held by the head in a collet and sticks out the full length. The turning down of the dia. is done with HSS, mainly because it has to be a 45 deg. form tool. Cutting oil and a very fine feed, iirc < 0.05 mm per turn.
Now for the point I use one of these 35 deg vee chips (VCxx), 1200 rpm and wiggling the top-slide to and fro almost as fast as I can, while the left hand gives a little jerk to the cross-slide of between 0,1 and 0,2 mm. For the last pass often 0.03 mm or even smaller, and slower. If I don't pay attention the point gets so sharp it can prick a finger easily. The swarf looks loke woman's hair...
I have no problem in taking fine cuts wit carbide inserts, but you need one for finishing and not a 'rougher'.
|Thread: Drilling chuck questions|
Yes your link shows the chuck I have. As a 'satisfied customer' I dare to say you will not be disappointed if you buy it.
This afternoon I was in the workshop and did some measurements. A piece of ground steel (of unknown straightness I hasten to say) showed a t.i.r of 0.04 mm at a distance of 50 mm in front of the chuck. A Albrecht (with integral Morse 2, but in an adapter for my quick change spindle) showed the same numbers.
Then I tested with the shaft of a 12 mm endmill. This was only possible about 20 mm in front of the chuck. The Lllambrich measured 0.025 mm t.i.r. The same endmill in a ER32 collet gave 0.02 mm.
At least for me that's perfectly good enough...
Your mileage may vary as they use to say.
about the chucks you mentioned:
I own two Röhm; one a Spiro; one a Supra. According to your description ( I can never remember it) the Spiro is the more expensive one. I can assure you that (imho) the cheaper one is not much worse; read: I see hardly a difference.
I have also Albrecht chucks: the Rolls Royce of chucks, but expensive. (Well Rolls ain't what they used to be, so maybe a bad comparison )
You mention a Spanish one. Should that be from Llambrich and you can get them for a good price: take it! You can then get (if you select the right model that is; iirc it is called a CNC chuck ) the best of both worlds: a keyless chuck with 2 special spanner flats (rather slots) and a matching key to close the chuck hard. I think that it is almost impossible to close a chuck hard enough with the bare hands. I often use a plumbers band key (ribbon key? strap key? don't know what the English call it) to close the usual keyless chucks.
You may be right that the keyless types are usually of better quality, but I think that a key chuck from a reputable maker ain't bad also.
|Thread: Digital Rev-counter|
Thanks Stub, that's one of the methods I tried, but didn't work. I use Opera; Firefox also because some sites don't work correctly in the former (e.g. electronic banking). But I prefer much the 'look and feel' of Opera. Although not the latest version, which is a nuisance. It is possible to 'improve' a product to death, unfortunately....
For those who are not so much in electronics, I think I can recommend this gadget:
At least the price is right! My item is under way somewhere...
(and after half a dozen unfruitful attempts I gave up trying to 'correctly' insert a link. Seems my brain is too old to get the finesses of all those (a good dozen) input fields under the chain symbol, which all do nothing.....)
|Thread: dividing tuition|
If someone is able to drill ONE hole in a piece of sheet metal. using coordinate values from an imaginary zero point, then it is only a matter of patience to drill x holes. Excel is fine for preparing a table of coordinate values for that.
Or might it be I supposing too much, and you use the 19th century method of ruler and center punch for drilling holes? Not even this would be bad in that case, due to the aforementioned corrective action of the worm gear.
|Thread: Which (round column) drill/mill?|
Pekka, re. the round column mill/drill: I would nor want one, and I would strongly advise against ordering one unseen and untried.
I had the 'opportunity' to use one; for drilling holes between 4 and 10 mm in stainless handrail tubes, and some 15 mm in to 5 mm structural steel. Sure the machine does it, makes real nice triangular ones especially the 10 mm.
My objections: although the machine is heavy and massive, it is not 'stable' if you know what I mean. There is a certain slop in the spindle and quill. But the most problems are with the xy-table. The one on the machine I used had tapered gibs; something usually seen on precision machines. I admit I was very surprised about that. Nonetheless, the feeling was strange and the stability not what I expectedBut the spindles have a pitch of 2.5 mm and some abysmal index collars. Together with backlash of 0.5 mm you need to have a clear head and a good grasp of arithmetic if you try to return to an earlier position. And you will get some serious muscle ache from twiddling the wheels.
The machine I speak about here is admittedly not a new model, but -according to the owner - almost unused.
|Thread: Metric vs Imperial - Practical or Traditional?|
Oh my, I thought I will restrain from further answers here, but it starts to make me angry reading stuff from people who don't even know simple arithmetic.
Yes, the are is an area unit, but it is 100 sqm (10 by 10) and not 1000. 1 HECTare is, as the name says, 100 ares!!! And 100 times 100 gives 10000, as I learned in Miss Nicolet's class about 60 years ago.
Sorry for that rant. But if you want to honestly discuss something, then first get your numbers right and check thrice what you write. (Well I just do...)
Greetings from a somewhat angry Hansrudolf (now disappearing into the workshop)
|Thread: Chinese lathes|
Back to that lathe again...
I have heard many stories about this kind of problems, but thought ' yes, many years ago....but not now'. And when I wrote about a really horrible milling machine from W...-oops, don't mention names...some months ago nobody seemed to believe me.
This one is even worse...
Thanks, Lathejack, for showing the truth. I wonder what Mr. Warren would have to say. You get what you pay for, perhaps.
|Thread: Chemical Plant|
A very strange thing here; I think it is not the first time I see this:
Opening this thread I see the first posting by Stub Mandrel, starting with
Nothing from Peter, no link, no picture, nada.
Do you (Stub) answer to imaginary threads, or do I overlook something obvious???
I know this forum software (as former software developer I would rather prefer to name it otherwise) has 'some' quirks...
|Thread: Metric vs Imperial - Practical or Traditional?|
Sorry gents, I cannot help laughing a hole into my belly, as we use to say here.. The least I would expect from you 'imperialists' would be not to make such silly mistakes, which invariably are excused as 'oh, that was just a typo' or as ' sorry, did misread the calculator'.
Jan, 5715 mm is not the same as 225 ft; ok we had this one.
Terryd, if I see on a plan something written as 118" - 9", how long would I cut a string or whatever? An easy one for a 10 years old; well 118 minus 9 is 109 inches, isn't it?
Crashing into Mars, as Ady rightfully remarked...
Going in Chris' footsteps, my last contribution also. Except maybe when even more silly mistakes have to bemoaned.
A lot could be said from a continental viewpoint to the above statements:
- it is not forbidden to use centimeters. A carpenter or a mason - afaik - does not work in mm.
- the correct dividers/multipliers are: milli = 1/1000; centi = 1/100; deci = 1/10; deca = 10; hecto = 100, kilo = 1000. A centigram would be 0.1 g or 100 mg. In Austria it is very common to use dekagrams (e.g. in recipes)
- The comma as decimal point is used in Germany for currency values, e.g. 3,90 Euro; but not in engineering (measuring) contexts. In my country we use always the point.
The REAL difficulty - as seen from here - is that it is not possible (here) to obtain material in imperial dimensins. So using 3 mm steel instead of 1/8" leads to much arithmetic(and errors) in changing dependent dimensions.
And, btw, I think this theme is now fully beaten to death...
|Thread: warco mill help needed|
Ed, if you are tight on funds register yourself with PayPal and buy the ER collets and chuck from
Super quality, super low prices and super service!
Last time they even 'doctored' the invoice so I did not have to pay import taxes (but don't tell that around )
|Thread: Tool and cutter grinder head|
Pailo, pay attention when you try to cut the hard chromed tube. Hard chrome is d**n hard!
Remove the skin with an angle grinder. I don't know if m.c. forks are hardened; maybe not. I have some pieces of hydraulic rams, which also are hard chromed. Some are hardened through; I had to throw them in the scrap bin. Others are unhardened below the chrome, but very tough and usable material. It is possible to turn away the outer skin with a carbide insert and a cut of say 0.5 -1 mm depth, but the insert is a bit maltreated afterwards!
|Thread: Simpler the Better -what do you use?|
just want to tell you that I could solve my initial troubles; well maybe not all, but at least I got the tools icons back! A case of a bad human interface: Who would suspect that a menu item "Tools" serves to toggle the visibility of the tools! Maybe a bit of professional bias here; I worked as programmer and know that the design of a intelligible h.i. is very important. Many books have been written about that.
But I digress. I already could draw a simple part and had a look into some of the tutorials. Unfortunately at the moment I have not much time to play with the program. Was trying today to change the templates for the drawing sheet; with mixed success. I miss a "edit text" function!. But the layout of the drawing is really good; although it is 'the other way round' to what we use here (3rd versus 1st angle I think).
I hope I can make enough tests before the test period terminates!
thanks for the link to the trial version. I did the download (sloooowly!) and installed it. As to be expected, the difficulties came up very fast. Apart from the fact that it seems that I don't see the whole window on my (19") screen (at the right I see something like X=,y= z=, but not more), I see a lot of tools mentioned in the tutorial which I cannot find. Even on your videos it is not always clear how you achieved the result. But I think we should not start a ViaCad tutorial here, or should we?
If I cannot get over the first big hurdles, then maybe I have to ask some questions by PM.
But I admit that the general handling of this program is to my liking.
Except, maybe, that I managed to delete all tools and don't know how to restore them... )
|Thread: Collet Chuck|
In our part of the world these collets are called F-type. However, a collet with shaft dia of 25 mm has a total length of 77 mm and a nose dia. 27 mm. The cone angle is 32 deg.
The given dimensions seem to be converted from metric ones?
So I suspect it is really a 'special'.
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