Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Simple Sharpening|
Richard, I would be most interested in a few pictures of this gadget. I sometimes have troubles of 'seeing' something just from a verbal description (although in this case I see a bit, but not enough!)...
|Thread: MT2 collet slipping|
|Thread: Touching down tool to work when turning|
OK, more off-topic - I hope nobody complains.
Richard, you don't see the screws do you? Well there are none. Both slides have tapered gibs. The topslide has it on the back, adjustable from the left side. The cross slide on the right, adjustable from the back side.
Tony, I have no informations of value for T. Griffith. What I know about this lathe is just that it (she?) started life as a special machine in a button factory (clothing's, not toolmaker's!). A friend of mine, who is unfortunately no longer among us, rescued it from the scrapyard and rebuilt it. I think he did a spray job then also, and he used a really good quality of paint. The tailstock was new then. That was over 30 years ago and it was possible to get parts from the factory. Because of that special history the bed is not scraped as usual in that kind of machines, but simply ground (and quite scratched now). The chip tray was made by me. I also added a countershaft (but only with 2 pulleys), and a (ex scrapyard) motor with integral stepless gearing. First I had a very worn Schaublin toolslide on it, but later I could get a new original Habegger at a good price.
Naturally, over that long time I collected and made lots of accessories. Chucks, collets (W20), spindle dividing gadget (GHT adaption), lever operated tailstock with tool turret, lever operated collet closer also.
ME content: that old Schaublin slide I want to convert (after rebuilding, new screws etc.) to CNC. PC, EMC, steppers, drivers all ready, only my time is missing...
Btw, Neotor (type) is to Habegger (factory) what e.g. Student to Colchester.
OK, that's it, in a (large) nutshell
|Thread: Jan Ridders Pressure-controlled Two-stroke engine|
Thanks to the umpteen description before and now the latest by Terry I can now definitely say that the method for creating a link is flawed. I did some experiments, step for step as pictured above, and got no links.
I suppose it is dependent of the browser, but I am not willing to throw away my trusty Opera.
|Thread: Touching down tool to work when turning|
Glad to oblige, Chris. It's this one:
Hooray, seems I managed to insert a pic directly... if only I culd do that with links also...
Not quite a watchmaker's, but I agree you have a point here. My other one has a saddle who can move around! and even stop when it hits a stop!
Well Chris, on SOME lathes (like one of mines e.g.) you need the topslide to turn parallel. In most cases I don't need or want a 12 deg. cone. .
Dusty, I am glad to report that your method works a treat! One learns something every day; I never saw that in the many books I own.
Both my lathes have friction dials (no 'hand wheels'), so I tapped instead (very lightly, with a small brass rod) the center of the ball handle. Giving a light bias with the index finger in the desired direction, I could see the index lines creep forward in minuscule steps. Say about 20 taps for 1/100 mm.
I put then some cuts with a sharp HSS tool on a piece of scrap free cutting steel, and was able to reduce this several times in repeatable steps of 1/100 mm on diameter. The finish was perfect, and the 'swarf' was a bit of black powder! The tool was possibly not even the best; I think even smaller cuts would be possible with a better one.
Graham, I don't think that this qualifies as 'striking a machine tool with an implement'. Using the palm of the hand does not work. It must be a tap which gives a vibrational (or call it sonic) pulse to the leadscrew. My interpretation, I admit. But I am absolutely sure it does no harm to the machine.
Dusty, can you please explain this method a bit more detailed? Where do you tap the hand wheel? At 12 o'cl, 2 o'cl or any time ? in which direction? Axially or radially? Do you try to hold the wheel stationary with the left hand while you tap it (assuming you are right-handed ) ?
I would like to try that, if I would know exactly how.
I had never much luck with the color band method; I think when I see the color disappearing then the cut is often already too deep.
|Thread: Different Steels|
Right you are, John.
and from GB too... as a few seconds with Google unearthed.
More informations here:
|Thread: universal pillar tool by george h thomas|
I think Stephen is interested in the Pillar tool?
"The Model Engineers Workshop Manual" is an important book and should be in everyone's library, but contains nothing about the Pillar Tool.
If this is also valid for the other book I don't,know.
But I am quite sure that there is a book by GHT: "Building the Pillar Tool".
Unfortunately I cannot find mine at the moment
|Thread: Tip build-up|
Please allow me to add a special one for mgi.
The carbide in turning inserts and other hard tooling is not iron carbide. If steel contains iron carbide at the grain boundaries I don't know; I would think rather no. But others may be more qualified to answer this.
The black stuff in cast iron is graphite, not iron carbide. Quite a difference, hardness-wise!
OK, so I did a little experiment today. In the scrapbox I found a piece of zinc-plated tube of about 16 mm dia. I first made a cut with a HSS tool, about 14 deg. rake, 250 rpm, dry. Got a nice build-up edge, and a terrible finish!
Then I changed to a DCMT insert (Chinese, from CTC tools, TiN coated). Speed around 1000.rpm. Much better, but not yet perfect I think.
For the last region I used a multicoated (expensive) Sumitomo insert and turned a part of the second cut backwards (o my!), left to right I mean, and about 0.05 mm deep. Now it starts to look decent!
As I am still unable to find out with which of the icons on top of the edit box I can insert a picture directly, you have to dig into my albun(s), sorry.
Pekka, I'm with you here. 178 rpm is way too slow, especially for carbide. And this 'good' HSS tool has not enough side rake. I guess that is not more than about 6-8 deg. Grind this tool down about double the distance we see on the picture, and the picture will change so to speak. But I admit that you (Peter I mean) has a piece of terrible material which adds to the trouble.
|Thread: bypass v globe valves|
An interesting definition, Coalburner.
I suppose your first picture is the globe valve, the second one what you call parallel gate valve (although it seems to consist of a tapered plug).
How do you call in England a valve consisting of a rotating ball with a hole across it? Not a globe valve then?
|Thread: steam turbine and generator|
Today the Feb. 2011 issue of EIM (dare to mention it here?) was in my letterbox. It contains the first of a picture story (no plans) of a Mr. Sheldrake, who built a (seemingly very successful, although the details are not out yet) flash steam hydroplane wit a turbine.
Pictures show the turbine wheel (kind of asymmetric Stumpf type), the housing and the gearing (5:1). A very interesting article, I eagerly await the sequels.
It seems that the record was 32 mph; possibly it is bettered now...
Paul, no they are in Singapore, and the prices are Singapore dollars (100 SGD = 49 GBP according to my converter). But it seems they don't have an online shop; I was a bit mislead here myself.
Edit: or maybe they have? I see now a 'add to cart' on some items!
Surely you can find a shop catering for aeromodellers, or try Ebay.
As I said I have no experience with these motors, but as they are principally ordinary DC motors (but with the windings outside and a magnet rotor in the case of an inrunner) I see no reason why they would not work as generators.
Edit 2: maybe the 3 leads would need to be connected to the usual 2 (+ / -) with diode bridges, if my theory of their working is correct.
I remember that quite a time back someone wrote an article in MEW about building an outrunner (where the windings are inside and the case with the magnets turn) for driving a milling spindle. These are not so fast, but have more torque.
I'm sure someone will bring forth the number of that issue.
Edited By Versaboss on 17/01/2011 23:49:44
Edited By Versaboss on 17/01/2011 23:58:52
if you need a motor which will not disintegrate at turbine speeds, look at the so-called inrunners as used by the aeromodellers.
See e.g. this site:
select 'brushless motor', then 'GS inrunner'
The first I see, B-12-30 (12 mm dia, 30 mm length will turn over 45000 rpm on 12 v, and pulls 3 amps.
And there are others, even faster.
Even if it possibly is somewhat less as generator...impressive.
I admit that I have absolutely no experience with these or wit any similar motors. But that's what I would look for.
Edited By Versaboss on 16/01/2011 23:23:50
Hmm, had to misuse the internet again....
If my calculator and old brain are not completely off, the stated distance above is around 100 atom diameters (of the larger kinds, but his turbine was not built from hydrogen I think).
Quite impressive with a bit of bluetak. Unfortunately we can't ask Mr. Chaddock how he measured it.
I formally apologize If I should be wrong...
|Thread: Milling Chucks|
Many thanks John Stevenson for your clear words and keeping the sanity up. I was thinking the same, but have not enough knowledge of the correct expressions for this c**p (yes that I know).
Maybe there are people tightening the collets with bare hands...I can't remember a single case where I had a cutter moving in a ER. It happened in the front gripping Deckel collets, though.
Btw, aside of the ER collets which are discussed here with many slots and a large gripping range, there are also EX types with only 2 x 3 slots and which grip ONLY the nominal diameter. In my Schaublin catalog the ER type is called ESX.
And a second btw: I was visiting the Myford site lately and NOWHERE they use ER in connection with their Morse collets (I used the search function of my browser).
Think of it what you want... I do!
Steve, I don't know which is the limit for import taxes in GB, but the gents at CTC know their business! On my last order they cut away all the prices in the accompanying paperwork, and on the customs declaration about half of the effective value was stated... no import taxes for amounts around 50 $ here! But maybe I should not tell that the whole world...
The insured air freight was between 22 and 27 $. When I think that the cheapest insert holders here cost about 3-4 times the CTC price, thenI am still saving. A collet here costs usually around 30$, against 3.25 (ER 25). The quality is as good as the domestic ones, imho.
Merry Miller, what is this Myford collet??? A ER25 is a ER25 is a ER25 (hmm, kind of citation, but I can't remember from whom )
Certainly there are no 'double length' ER collets; it must be another type.
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