Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: When does one have to be concerned?|
And for all those interested in what has happened:
I seem to remember that the sending of the subscription is done now with another firm (no more "Swisspost" on the envelope)
These dumba**** managed to leave out the city name from my address. As the postal code still was there, the p.o. found me nonetheless. Bur the second time they lost patience, it seems...
Now I hope David can put the train back on the track, so to speak...
On the 13th of May 2011 the first posting under the title "...3 CNC features..." saw the light of the day. I have to suppose that back then the issue 177 was out in the shops and possibly also to the subscribers.
Well, not here, two and a half weeks later, although I don't think I'm living on the edge of the world. So do you think I should approach -hmm, what's the name they use now MyHobbyStore? - to ask if I was forgotten or what else.
To make it clear: my subscription is well and still running for a couple of issues. Usually the delivery was not too far from the published date, sometimes even 'just in time'.
You may ask why I don't use the phone? Well maybe I would find a number somewhere, but my trouble is that (I think...) I can write some almost correct phrases in English, and can albeit with some trouble also interpret some answers (in this forum), but have much trouble understanding some Englishman (or -women) on the phone, especially if they don't speak BBC English. That leads to a never-ending succession of '.I beg your pardon' from my side (and possibly from the other side too considering my alemannic articulation).
Do you think I should bite the bullet now, nonetheless?
Edited By Versaboss on 31/05/2011 12:52:34
Edited By Versaboss on 31/05/2011 12:52:49
|Thread: Sieg Super X3 advice needed!|
|Thread: Using Micrometer/Hi-Spot blue|
Hmm, some different opinions, and each one is a bit right in some sense.
In the actual issue of the (American) Home Shop Machinist magazine just started an article about scraping. It is fully clear the author talks about scraping the blue spots. I am also the proud owner of that famous Connelly book, and the same story there. just imagine what happens when you put a hollow, non-straight gib strip on a surface plate. The ends are touching and become blue; the hollow center does not.
However, when the surface becomes almost perfect, the picture changes and what Pat describes happens. I hope it is no crime to cite a sentence from that HSM article:
"(This photo) also shows an alternative spotting technique. Here, blue was applied to the work and the work rubbed on a clean area of the surface plate. Like a photographic negative, the results are reversed, with the high areas showing as bright spots...sometimes...easier to see, especially when doing fine work"
(Italics by me)
maybe I have to state also that I use a real surface plate (scraped cast iron), and have no experience how a slick glass plate works.
Btw. Peter, do you push the scraper or pull? I absolutely have no control when pushing, all I have done was with the pulling method.
I used to use a bit of fine leather (chamois), wrapped around a champagne bottle cork. It is important that you drink the champagne first before you start scraping, then you feel not so embarrassed about the blue fingers...
Seems the site has a problem with the piccies, I see none.
|Thread: Glanze 30 Int Arbor|
I remember having had the same problem with one Int30 holder. One of the surprises when buying some 'odd lots' when I stumble over them...
Jist had a look; it was a MK3 sleeve, so is very rarely used only for a couple of large drills.
I solved this problem with the help of a humble angle grinder and some minutes work. The looks are not so pretty, but it works, and it is only for transmitting the torque.
The more complicated way would be to make stepped 'fingers'. On my machine these are screwed on to the spindle.
|Thread: This months MEW are 3 CNC features two too many|
Aah, a voice from the carpet floor finally !!!
As the relevant issue has not yet landed in the letterbox in this part of the world, I cannot comment much.
However, I am of the firm opinion that pages of printed G-code in a magazine is nonsense.
Even if there are no errors in it (and the re-typing does not generate new ones), it is not too sure if the code would run correctly on every machine. And there are errors for sure, if we remember the problems with drawings
It would be much better - if it is really needed - to put the G-code files somewhere to download. The place could then be used to bring good examples of successful conversions, or how to make Delrin Acme nuts without backlash, or how to work with CamBam, or similar stuff!!!
THAT would interest many, I think.
|Thread: What Collet type, 5C or ER25|
Maybe money is not so important here, but why get an OZ collet chuck for the mill when you have ER for the lathe? Granted the max. dia. is a bit larger than ER32, but do you need endmills over 20 mm diameter? For that you better get a shell mill holder and a 40 or 50 mm shell mill cutter.
The set of roughing end mills in all diameters is an unnecessary luxury. A 10 and a 16 mm is all you need. The other set - I think I bought a similar one when I knew less than today - it is not first quality. I hardly use these now.
I have the same center indicator; I think it is quite good for the price, but I don't use it each year! You can center the rotary table with a well-fitting peg in the central hole and your milling chuck.
6-station turret? Do you want repetition jobs; 100s of pieces? I use a self built one, but do these (payed) repetition jobs!
Just a few thoughts; maybe even more could float up.
E.G. I would get as much as possible from CTC tools Hongkong, although you find it easier to order from one place. Super quality and lowest prices you can get (just a happy customer; ER collets, indexable turning tools etc.)
Well I see most what I wanted to say has been said already.
If you want tu use the (ER) collets in the lathe (which has 38 mm spindle bore!) then you take better the largest you can get! ER 25 is a tad too small for this. The same is valid also for the mill.
I don't know these products, but the mill I find a bit 'strange'.It has automatic spindle feeds, which usually are found on heavy drilling machines. A feed in x would be more useful, imho.
It is a pity that a machine like this has a Morse taper spindle. I see you pounding with a heavy lead hammer on the drawbar to release a stubborn taper, as there (usually) is no decent press-off nut on these machines (hope you know what I mean...)
|Thread: 'Mystery' material|
I might be wrong but I think this is 'Vulkanfiber'. Seems the English word is Vulcanized Fibre, and it is made from paper:
I hope this helps for searching more infos.
If I can trust my memory, it is available here from the plastics material distributors.
|Thread: D bit grinder work head calculations|
I leave it to others trying (again) to explain to Mr. Alush-Jaggs the difference between such a half-arsed D-bit and a engraving cutter.
Sufficient to say that D-bits are also called cannon drils, because that's what they had been used for. Can you drill a straight and deep hole with your engraving cutters, Mr. A-J?
If necessary, I can put up some pictures of commercially available h-a. D-bits. I own even one where the 'split half' is spiraled like an ordinary twist drill.
(a bit miffed when somebody don't sees the light)
|Thread: Technical and engineering drawing.|
Ah, postings are wanted, so here you get it. Sorry if this one sometimes sounds aggressive, That's not what I want to express. Blame my limited knowledge of English please
My opinion, after following this discussion: does it really make sense to publish a (long?) series of articles describing the BSxxx standard? Considering that:
- ME authors (mostly, it seems) do not use it
- there is a big rest of the world who does not use it either.
I can finally understand David C's position better. The long series about that 3D-CAD (which in reality wasn't one, and used a outdated version to boot) was enough.
I don't care much if something is drawn in first angle or third or whatever, if I can find the necessary informations to produce the part (and if the angle number is given somewhere if it is not absolutely clear).
Yes, I also saw the examples in the XYZ magazine, demonstrating that even a benevolent attempt at correcting something can result in a failure.
The professional drawings I get here are in first angle!
No, I could not solve the conundrum
|Thread: Cutting fluids|
I use Rocol Ultracut 250 and am very happy with it. It does not smell, is very economic (3% is enough), and does not get smelly with age. In the container on the milling machine a 'skin' builds up (possibly also because of the lubricating oil), but it can be skimmed off when the machine stands unused for a few days.
However, Michael, I would be interested to know what kind of disinfectant can be put into the mix? H2O2 eventually?
I think at least it would not hurt.
|Thread: Nickel Plating|
as it seems the color of these engine parts is the problem? So why not get a few cm (or inches if you prefer) of Monel or the similar German Silver? I think both of these are not to distinguish from a Nickel plated part.
Btw, many years ago I bought a set of electroplating materials from the German firm Conrad. My fear was that it will be forbidden soon. I don't know if it is now, or if they still sell it. However, I never used it, and it is gathering dust in a closet. Having a look at it, I even think that the 'Nickel electrode' is stainless steel and so might not work anyway...
If you would be closer you could have it for a test.
|Thread: Dividing plate|
Ahem, cough, Michael, do you really need a plan to clone such a gadget?
No big secrets here I think... But the clamping method for the detent arm is a nice solution; I hope to remember it when the need arises next time.
|Thread: Making wheels by casting in the spokes|
Well, me too I have a question or 2!
In one scene we saw how they 'painted' the mould with a liquid and then set it on fire. In all the many articles about casting I never saw something like that. Can someone explain?
What surprised me was that they melted down concrete rebar. That's not cast iron, is it? From the point of the machining, this is usually considered as 'terrible stuff'.
Or should that be some kind of steel casting? I thought these hubs were cast iron. It is a pity that the oven was not seen in detail. The steel melting ovens I have seen were electrically heated.
|Thread: Tool Hone|
Thanks Richard, I think I can only repeat what Neil said above!
|Thread: Cuter speed|
100 RPM, give or take...for good tips and hot chips 150
|Thread: Simple Sharpening|
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