Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: MEW 186 - Electronic Lathe Control|
John Stevenson wrote:
> I always lusted after [a] a screwcutting gearbox and [b ] Judy Williams from down our road.
John, I have many pictures of screwcutting gearboxes, but to better understand your disappointment, do you happen to have a picture of Judy Williams somewhere, which you could post here?
(well I found a Judith W., but you come too late in that case) :
|Thread: Blackgates power hacksaw drawings|
Thanks Cyril, that was a wise and much appreciated decision.
Even better and easier - use the services from TinyUrl (as I wrote here umpteen times before):
Xmas - and the lost soul returns!!!
GRAHAM Meek 25/12/2011 23:17:24
Hansrudolf, (singing halleluja)
|Thread: Is 0.1 deg good enough..|
Thanks Gents, I am quite happy that I agree with you. So for 'ordinary work' the alignment is not so important, but to do it according to the text books a digital level is not sensitive enough.
I want to make it clear that I'm not trying to level my lathe(s). One has no leadscrew, so it is only possible to turn as far as the topslide reaches. And the other one sits on a very massive cabinet and was most probably never removed from there since leaving the factory. But - both are levelled (with the sensitive vial level) via adjustable foots on the floor level.
Now I would hope that one of the DC's would put an explication in the next issue, as it was done about the Magnesium steel in 184.
Ah yes, leveling and levelling - separated by a common language they say...
In the latest MEW there is an article about using a digital level for leveling machine tools. Now these levels have a resolution of 0.1 deg. What the accuracy of that number is, nobody knows. If my maths are not completely off, 0.1 deg amounts to a distance of 1.7 mm in one meter (could do it in inches too if it must be!)
I own a bubble level with a sensitivity of 0.05 mm per meter, and this means between two lines about 5-6 mm apart on the vial. this is more than 30 times better (and it is possible to see much smaller deviations due to the aforementioned scale distance).
So does the accumulated wisdom here think that leveling to 0.1 deg is 'good enough'?
Strange, to be sure I looked at the title in MEW, there it was 'levelling', but the spill chucker in this entry field wants 'leveling'. Who's right?
|Thread: Vertical to Horizontal Mill conversion.|
Skarven, what I don't grasp at the moment is which side of the angle grinder gear you want to use as 'input' and which as 'output'. The a.g. motor is geared down at least 4:1 or 5:1 I think. So either the mill has to run fast and a small cutter is still too slow, or vice versa?
|Thread: ME Forum|
Reading the stuff above about stopping these flashing adverts, I searched around in my browser (Opera) for similar settings. I found that in Opera I can adjust settings individually for websites, and so I disabled 'animation of pictures' for this site. That worked, but now it wasn't possible to log in! The e-mail/password entry just went blank again after a second. Enabling the animation brought back the flashing ads, but not the login. Only after the deletion of the model-engineer entry in that (very large) file list brought it back.
The effect is repeatable; I did it twice yesterday and today, and in between Opera made an update.
It is strange that this does not happen with other browsers...? Don't say use another, I like Opera!
|Thread: Chuck locking ring.|
An old story, going back almost to the time when Noah built the ark. I mentioned this system on other places, more than once I think, and almost everytime I saw the same reaction. No one seems to believe that it only works by compressing the neck of the backplate. There is no place where the ring touches the spindle!
I dug out a pic I took a couple of years ago:
I took several attempts to insert the pic directly (without creating an album) but no success!!!
Inserting an URL in the line on the insertion form results only in a empty line here..
mode off, Hansrudolf
|Thread: Why are milling machines so b****y expensive|
Ah Clive, a Schaublin 13 would be a bit too much for Wolfie!!! (in size, weight and price).
Btw, some years ago I paid CHF 16'000 for mine ( a late machine), and a couple thousands for secondhand tooling. But it's a good machine, better than the old Deckel FP1 I had before.
Although, for fine milling jobs I prefer the Fehlmann; much more 'feeling' in the handles.
|Thread: Learning something new..|
Here I am again...
Dick, you are too fast.... Please read the sentence again. It clearly says 'advance 0.01 in', not 'advance ten marks on the dial' or something like that. 0.01 in is the same always (imho), whatever numbers your dial marks may show.
As I don't know how you use your knurling tool, I can not answer. But the tool is very clever, I am tempted to make something similar. Hats off!
Neil: same as I said to Dick. Seems you are the first who realized the knurling tool problem.
The wheels have to touch at 12 and 6 o'clock, not 8 and 10 (or 2 and 4 if seen from the other side).
Back into the woods:
|Time to stir up the waters a bit... |
One has to learn something new every day they say, so I dived into that beginner's article in MEW 184 again. And for sure: there is something to learn, esp. on page 17!
First thing which surprised me no end is the thesis that "advancing the cross slide 0.01 in. on most hobby lathes reduces a bar 0,02 in in diameter". Well I changed the wording a bit, but I hope you get the gist.
Wouldn't it be nice to know which hobby lathes don't produce such a reduction, as seemingly there must be some exceptions? And the professional lathes - how do they work? Many difficult questions for a beginner... I have to ceck how my lathes behave in that task.
A few lines later I learned how to correctly use a clamping type knurling tool. Now I built mine more than a quarter century ago, but to my shame I did it wrongly all the time. Correctly, the clamping screw is only used to spread the rolls a couple of mm (or sixteenths if you prefer). Then you use it in the time honored method of pressing inward - with the cross slide - onto the workpiece. Don't worry if it is only a 3/16" silver steel, for sure the resulting pretzel scriber will be ergonomically adapted to your hand!!!
Continuing the learning process,
Hansrudolf the diligent follower
|Thread: metric taps|
Well, I also did an experiment. But before you should know the following: I do, more or less regularly, work for customers. I always use the 'standard' tapping diameters for metric threads, that is dia - pitch. Found in all the tables I have, and also written on a large plate on my Fehlmann drill (on which the tapping is done, under power). I have (mandatory) to check the threads with thread gauges. Yes, I have some taps which cut oversize threads! .
So I took a scrap of Aluminium, 20 mm thick, and bored 2 holes, 6.8 and 7.1 mm. I did not measure them, but due to the drills I used they are spot on. Tapping both M8, and checking with the gauge. Lo and behold, both are perfect! But, and this is a big but for me, looking down into the hole the lager shows distinctive truncated thread. From former (bad) experience I know that my customer would not be pleased with them!!! .
Conclusion: for my own purposes, and in the more difficult materials, I would also drill a gnat's whisker larger next time.
|Thread: Woohoo fell in the Tyne again|
Wolfie Wolfie, that's what I call a stroke of luck!!! You see the drool dripping down here?
Is there still room in your Mom's garage, or did she have to sell the car?
Let's hope they didn't ask such a low price due to some hidden problem... But in case...all can be repaired with a bit of elbow grease and good will.
|Thread: How do I read this gauge|
Ok, to the rescue!
I think it should be clear now that the gauge(s) are for imperial threads.
Now to that mystic 'G'. G means Gang (or Gänge in plural), not in English but in German! Gang is the same as your TPI. So 13G means 13 turns (Gänge), same as 13 TPI.
Maybe the gauge was made in Germany.
And as far as I know the Imperial threads, it is not usual that the same TPI is used for different diameters (or fine/coarse). So that's where sometimes you see 2 diameters. 13 TPI is not used in the Whit. system then it seems? Too lazy to go to the workshop and check my gauge...
|Thread: UNregulated DC??|
Bill (Cornish Jack), why not measuring the voltage of your unregulated supply under some load? Say a resistor between 300 - 1000 ohms, will absorb a handful of milliamps. Maybe the picture changes then...
I wondered why none of the electronic gurus advised that.
Doesn't BW show the power consumption in the user's manual? This would give a better clue to the value of the test resistor (Ohm said: r = U/I).
|Thread: Drill chuck removal|
I should like to remind that it is a keyless chuck! These have - to the best of my knowledge - no axial hole for inserting a drift. I would say that drilling though the chuck would possibly destroy it. Usually the innards are hardened also.
Wedges are the way to go.
yes, I also wanted to say that J6 is a jacobs taper (not so common in Europe, though), but Terryd was faster!
|Thread: BW Electronics DROs|
Mgj, from the remark about being 'a bit casual' I suppose you use such a magnetic system?
Can you - or anybody - tell me if that system is (electrically and connector-wise) compatible with glass scales? I once bought a display unit for Easson glass scales (mainly because I got it for a good price), but never managed to find a good way to mount such scales on my mill. This problem would be much more manageable with these magnetic scales.
I have a BW unit on the cross-slide, but never had a problem with reading movement instead of diameter.
|Thread: Drilling deep holes - 10x drill diameter - Runout?|
Dick, would it be possible to show a sketch of that Greener tool? I admit having trouble to visualizing this from your description. Google just brings up a lot of 'greener ways to drill for oil', not what we do here?
|Thread: Tapmatic Help|
Hugh, I'm glad that I could give some tips. As a matter of fact, I never use larger drills as the metric 'standard', diameter - pitch. You should have no troubles with 11.3 mm
Don't be afraid when you see the tap running with a lot of runout - well I was when I first saw it. That's why I said to tap with the workpiece in the same position as when drilling. But if it is necessary, it is possible to 'pick up' a hole position with the point of the tap, if one is prudent. The Rubberflex collets are quite forgiving.
No, the torque arm stays in the same position, even when the tap runs backward!
And for blind holes - I use to set the depth on the safe side, then check with a thread gauge (or screw, if you have none, and adjust the depth accordingly. Then finishing the too short thread manually. I have to confess that I in some cases thread the workpiece a couple of turns on the tap, then clamp it down in the vise and switch on power! Usually I am lucky with this method, but it's up to you (and I don't know your machine).
OK Hugh, let's try a dummy's guide.
I own a Tapmatic 30 TC/DC, which differs from yours that it is smaller and has a threaded ring above the collet, which allows to limit the 'pullout' of the spindle. As yours don't have this, one problem less.So I would propose that you prepare some scrap pieces (8 - 10 mm thickness) of the material you want to thread. Arrange a stop in your milling vise and drill them with the drill you want to use for tapping. Let's assume 5 mm for a M6, and a through hole. After preparing these mount the Tapmatic with the tap in it. A machine tap with spiral point it has to be. Lower the tap (stationary) to the surface of your test piece (which is in exactly the same position in your vise as when you drilled it). Clamp the spindle, and set your depth stop to a dimension after solving the following equation: The T.70 spindle pulls out 9 mm , my workpiece is x mm thick, and to cut a full thread the tap has to come out of the other end y mm, and it does not hit something hard beneath the hole (e.g. the vise). Unclamp the spindle and bring the head up.
Ok, your depth stop is set now. Ah the torque...well start with the lowest, and when the threading stops prematurely then adjust it for more grip.
Set the mill to say 2/3 of the max speed given on the Tapmatic head. You arranged also a stable stop bar for the arm, didn't you?
Now I hope I have not forgotten too much. Switch on, put some good cutting oil on the tap and maybe also into the hole, and lower the tap quite fast with the quill handle into the hole (1.2 sec. for a thread like I said above). When you reach the spindle stop, the tap stops also (to be exact, after the 9 mm 'pullout'). Move up with the handle (even faster, as the left turn is geared up), and voila...thread done.
If any questions remain, just ask
Edit: depth stop = x + y - 9, if my 'rithmetic is still working.
Edited By Versaboss on 28/10/2011 22:15:52
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