Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cylinder Boring Techniques for Steam Engines|
So you are somewhere in Switzerland, buying from Mr. Burkhard?
Regarding your list of materials: stay away from St37 when you can. It's usually called 'garden fence iron' here and difficult to get a good surface finish
Also for a piston I think GG25 is possibly better suited than GGG60. The latter would be good for highly stressed machine parts (wheels, gears). It is much stronger; I think the number gives the tensile strength in kg/mm2.
|Thread: Emco V10|
Mike, take the following with a grain of salt, but if I'm wrong surely someone will correct me...
Does this lathe have a two-speed motor? In that case you are in front of a bigger hill, as you would need an inverter with 220 V input and 380 V output, and these are a bit expensive. (old school voltage numbers here; I know today they use higher numbers, but still the same stuff comes out of the wall).
For single speed applications it's dead easy: Connect a length of 5-pole cable to the output of the inverter; mount the appropriate female connector on the other end, and put the lathe's connector (It has a piece of cable attached, hasn't it?) into that instead of the wall outlet.
Then use ONLY and ALWAYS the on/off switch on the inverter. Using the lathe swirch when the inverter is running destroys it. Don't ask, I know... )
|Thread: Parting problems|
Martin, a bit off-topic I know (*), but I would be very very interested to know where you can get Magnesium (rod or tube) in sizes suitable for turning. Not even on Ebay did I find that, and there are lots of 'exotic' stuff to find there!
(*) cough, cough, tons of articles about parting off already on the 'net, imho...
|Thread: Kosy nccad8 HELP!|
Hi Jasmine, it's a shame that nobody answers you, and I admit I Too cannot help you much!
However, I had a look at the Max Computer site and there is a FAQ and a hotlinel Looking at the personal list, there is at least one English speaking lady (Mrs. Oppl) there. Didn't you get tutorials for that software?
Maybe your problems are something generic, so perhaps you could tell a bit more where your troubles lie. I see there is a demo version available for free; maybe one of the CAD gurus (I'm not, unfortunately) can try a doenload and have a look.
|Thread: Centreing a rotery table|
Wondering that nobody mentions the 'Osborne maneuver'. Does not need a DTI, only an edge finder and somethin exactly round and of known diameter, e.g. a ring from a ball bearing. called disk in the description below. For a R.T. you can use the outside; possibly even for a chuck if you don't get in conflict with the jaw slots.
Shameless copy from the Practical Machinist forum:
> Here's the Osborne maneuver:
|Thread: Favourtie Finishing Tools|
Will, you can bet your last penny or cent that David did not recommend to smooth the inside of a bore with a file (be it a Swiss one or from somewhere else! )
|Thread: bending 4mm copper tubing|
Very true, Paul.
A colleague tried to make a helix coil from 10 mm copper tube. The diameter of the coil was around 50-60 mm (from memory). He tried filling with sand and was unable to remove it afterwards. Then he had a brilliant idea: he filled the tube with table salt... Just put it in a bucket of water afterwards, and away it is. At the softening temperature of copper the salt does not melt. That way he produced a perfect coil.
|Thread: Gral Extending bed|
Ah Neil - could this be a relative of Heath Robinson? Google only found this Gerry Anderson:
Seems he has to do something with (an) UFO. Yes, the lathe would be suitable to turn a 16" model !
There are also some entries for Brains, but mostly about the biological stuff.
(btw, the manufacturer's name was Rüttner)
|Thread: Charging Lithium-ion Batteries|
Just now two 12V 6.8 Ah Li-ion packages are under way from China. There are lots of single cells available, but I opted for the package because I thought that charging is not so easy. The packages come with their own charger. Oh - almost forgot - all from Ebay naturally:
I hope this will not result in a spectacular firework!
Some pictures are now in my album (Gral thread).
Google translator is very clever (ich verschtand nöd Walisisch, mängmol nöd emal üses Walliser Düütsch!)!
|Thread: Colchester Bantam metric scewcutting on imperial only machine|
Some photos of the Gral lathe in different configurations are now in my album.
|Thread: GHT Universal Pillar Tool|
OK, I step in:
In my example: outer rim: 12.9 mm
inner rim: 16.7 mm
table in between: 9.2 mm
I had to use the height gauge to measure these dimensions...
all approximative, these are not critical dimensions!
|Thread: wood turning|
A coupöe of years ago I made a set of woodturning tools from an article in MEW I'm quite sure. But searching in Mr. Dias' index I could not find it.
These are made from HSS blanks and are all flat on the top. Only side/front rake, but highly polished. For what I use them (very seldom!) they work very well.
I load up a piccie in a few minutes...
|Thread: table drive motor identification|
Fully clear that this is a DC motor; look at the == sign after the voltage values!
I'm really sorry, but never in my life did I tell such a thing!!! Like many other people I own more than one lathe, and the one with the extendable bed is in my album together with the pic of its threading table. The name of this lathe is "Gral", not "Habegger". This latter machine also has no raising blocks (as mentioned above), although it would be quite easy to produce such things.
Unfortunately I have no good picture of the extended bed, but will try to rectify this wneb time permits.
|Thread: Colchester Bantam metric scewcutting on imperial only machine|
Big danger of going off-topic here
However, about the small threads you are possibly right. I can imagine that other (maybe even smaller) threads couldn be done with combinations not on the table.
This lathe is very small, comparable maybe to the Myford ML10. Up to now it has not received the honour of being shown on T. Griffith's pages (my fault, really, as I wanted to do this since years), I put a picture of the headstock in my album. The lathe has the quitr unique feature of a movable2-part bed. Normally, the centre height is 100 mm. By pulling the upper part out, you can obtain a large gap with centre height 200 mm (or a much longer bed length). It has also a very clever backgear, giving a very large speed range.
It is nor very rare in Switzerlans; I know of 2 others, one of them not far from my place.
Andrew, I put a photo of the threading chart in my album(s). I think when enlarging it to the max. of what this site allows, it is quite legible
Maybe you are right about the calculator, it was a promotion gift!
Nonetheless, for doing the addition of my bills it is ok...
I can give the other ratios tomorrow; the table is in a bad place to read it and taking notes.
Hello all Mathematicians,
I have an interesting little lathe of Swiss origin, with the following details:
- no thread gearbox
- set of gears: 25 - 100 in steps of 5; 120, 127
- IMPERIAL leadscrew, 8 TPI
- only one intermediate gear stud between tumbler and leadscrew.
The setup for fine feed is: 25 - 120/30 - 127
For all metric threads the 127 stays on the leadscrew.
The table shows 19 metric pitches from 0.25 to 3.5 mm
Just a few examples:
Pitch 0.5 mm: 40 - 100/50 - 127
Pitch 1 mm: 40 - - - 127
Pitch 1.5 mm: 60 -- - 127
Pitch 2 mm: 70 - 35 /40 - 127
Pitch 3 mm: 70 - 35/60 - 127
I leave it to you to calculate errors; on the ones I checked my electronic gadget showed numbers like x.9999999
If there is interest, I can show gear combinations for the other 14 pitches too...
|Thread: Grinding lathe tools|
If you want SHARP HSS (and inserts also) tools, there is nothing better than one of the small Diamond wheels from Eternal Tools:
I use the very fine D9 grit. This is only suitable for giving the razor sharp, shiny edge. For removing material a much coarser grain is necessary. I have the toolrest set to 6-7 deg. (clearance) most of the time. I make the wheel moist and clean it (often!) with a brown Scotchbrite and soap. Maybe not what E.tools write, but it works for me. This fine wheel, although not really cheap, lasts indefinitely.
I use this wheel in a (kind of) old T+C grinder, but it could easily be done in the lathe (couple of newspaper over the ways if you use water). Or cobble something together, Worden-like, with a small motor.
Just a satisfied customer...
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