Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Designspark 2.0|
Can it be that you are a bit in behind, Adi? Here I am on DS Mechanical 5.0...
|Thread: Overseas Distribution to restart|
peezee, I went through the same problem. But quite by accident - because it is NEVER mentioned here in this forum - I discovered that all surplus mags go to an (unrelated to MTM?) organisation called www.mags-uk.com .
|Thread: Does anyone watch Mr crispin|
I saw one of his videos just a couple of days ago. What did astonish me was his dialect. Can someone here tell me from where he comes?
|Thread: F2G Swiss championship, 19/09/2020|
Well, as I was quite active in control line flying, many years ago, I was quite 'electrified' when I saw that one of the very few events this year was the Swiss championship in Electro speed, class F2G. This class is only about 8 years old and maybe not so famous up to now, but I was really surprised! There were only 4 contestants, but the event ended with a world record of 302 km/h, and the 'slower' ones were not much in behind. This is even more astonishing because these motors have only about half the power of the best 2.5 ccm I.C. engines.
Here a couple of pictures, you may also see the reports in MG Breitenbach
In German, but G... is your friend, you know
The record holder:
And we also had the honour of a visit by Mr. Bond, James! (or at least his car)
|Thread: Emco 8.6 - Tumble Reverse Position for Screwcutting?|
Reading that stuss above from Avery, (hi A. use that translator!*), I'm beginning to loose my will to live...
- the knob on the tumbler reverse lever is not the one which changes the feed speeds!!! This is on the side of the cover, see Jason's picture.
- I am old and cannot always trust my memory, but I am quite sure that for screwcutting that double gear is always removed, or in other words: a screwcutting setup never transmits over that double gear. The picture on p. 28 of the manual above shows the setup for normal turning., and the feeds 0.12 and 0.05 mm work only in that setup!
Jason displayed all very clearly in the piccies above, so I retreat now...
* ok, I do it for you: a nice word I found is balderdash...
I'm quite sure what Avery mentions is the push-pull knob which changes between the coarse (0.12 mm) and the fine (0-05 mm) feed .
Many years ago I owned a Emcomat 8.6, and I am absolutely sure the tumbler gear didn't change the pitch of a thread.
I would be interested to see that >>visual indication/guidance/reminder cast into the change gear case door. It shows when the tumble reverse is in the up position, less screw threads result.<<
|Thread: HSS replacement tool tips.|
Another, not very well known manufacturer, is Alesa
Here, the HSS inserts, but beware: they are not cheap! It is possible to get them piecewise, though.
|Thread: Arduino low power alternatives|
as a sometimes Arduino user I'm always interested in such stuff. However, all is not so easy. I managed to install the Atom editor, and then tried in vain to cooperate it with PlatformIO. What I now have, if I start Atom, is a black screen with a menu bar. There is also a menu point for PlatformIO. But after say a minute I get the message 'editor isnot responding.
|Thread: Emco FB2 Quirks and Additions|
I have sold my Emco mill, but know the buyer. For an easy solution to the oil problem, would it be possible to drill a say 1 mm hole through the hex key opening, and then fill that opening with a piece of foam or plastic sponge. Air can escape, and dirt cannot go in.
|Thread: Overseas Distribution to restart|
Ok, I was away from home for a couple of days, and something has happened in between.
It must be clear now that the missing MEW issues had been edited and printed, they just did not make it to the post office. First hint was the post from Mr. Dias Costa, stating that he managed to byi these issues. So I started searching around and found - just to the left side from the Editor's bench! - a line in the imprint with a web address for 'Current and back issues'. : www.mags-uk.com. I don't know if this is part of MTM, at least it was never mentioned in this thread. So I went there and could place an order for the two issues I miss, and as the order was accepted I hope I will get them some day.
My thanks goes to Neil, he at least wrote that he could do something also. I suppose this is not necessary now. But this email story he mentioned: I never got an email from MTM - until last Tuesday, 21/7.,when the ball was already rolling here. It came from a Ms. Kate Parkes, email customer services, stating: " I'm sorry to read that you haven't been receiving your magazine. I have arranged for replacement copies to be dispatched, please allow up to 10-14 days for these to arrive within Europe and up to 28 days for the rest of the world."
Here we have a saying: where there is a will, there is a way. But sometimes the will is missing...or working very slowly at least.
Jason, it would be VERY nice of you if you could explain in detail how we all, which miss MEW 293 and 294, can get access to these digital versions. Does somebody over there REALLY know that we didn't get them? At least I, as a 'paper' subscriber, have heard nothing from MTM. That they are unable to supply the missing paper issues is a shame. To the left from the 'Editor's Bench' there is a tel. nr. and website for 'current and back numbers'. Is that futile?
A bit miffed greetings,
Ok, don't think I want to spread panic among the prospective users of silicone replacement lenses - but it must be said. Well, seems that I wrote about this somewhere in 2016, but repetition does not hurt.
Edited By Versaboss on 15/07/2020 14:54:40
|Thread: SuperGlue as a means of holding in lathe|
MichaelG, falling for a troll (again?)...
Do I read that correctly, you are speaking about something in MEW issue 295???
The last issue I received was 293, May 2020. Something lost in transit, how long should I wait before taking action?
|Thread: What filament material do you use on your 3D printer?|
While I don' want to detain someone using ABS filament, I gave up after just a few trials and gave my spools away,
What I use now is ASA, with a bet temp of 80-90°, and a nozzle temp. of 235-240°. According to my IR thermometer, the real bed temp. is somewhat less. The print surface is BuildTak, anything holds perfectly on that.
material #2 is PET-G, bed temp 70°, nozzle temp 225°. No problems with the prints.
My printer is an Ortur, quite happy, although the print surface as delivered was scrap, and the leveling sensor does not work correctly. But the guides are imho better than what is used on Creality and Anet and similar ones.
|Thread: Free or inexpensive 2D cad for clock wheels|
Well, I was interested in some features in this (up to now unknown to me) CAD app 'Back to the Drawing Board'.
Tried the whole evening to download the trial version, but no success. Although I had a MS account, and I could login to it, the download window did not recognise it. I went then through the quite complicated route to reset my password and rejoined with a new one. But what happened with that: yes, just the same. I can login to my account, but the download site says sorry, your password is wrong.
As the app is available for different hardware, it seems that the PC (this PC) should be known to the MS account. But what to do to register it - I dunno. Maybe I'm really too old for stuff like that.
P.S: would Mr, TickToc kplease stop citing every line in every entry, and then answering with one line... ISTR that we had this before, many weeks ago.
Edited By Versaboss on 01/07/2020 22:15:53
Edited By Versaboss on 01/07/2020 22:16:21
|Thread: How to glue plastics|
Ok, here I cannot have my mouth shut. I suppose in that sentence a 'not' is missing.
ABS is one of the easiest plastics to glue. It can be dissolved in Acetone (every 3D-printer knows that), and bonds also to Epoxies and Acrylics.
For 'most hard plastics', the secret lies in the preparation. I see that the flame treatment has already been mentioned, and with this method I glued two plates from (I suppose) Polypropylene, and it would be very hard to separate them again.
The method consists of 'brushing' the parts with a Propane torch or similar, without melting the plastic, but it becomes then hydrophilic (in contrary to the water-repellent or hydrophobe surface the plastic usually has).
I think I saw this method in one of the well-known Dan Gelbart videos.
Raphael, could you please tell us how much you moved the camera between these 30 images?
It would also be interesting if the stacking software says something what is sensible/necessary and what not.
Thanks, and regards
Edited By Versaboss on 24/05/2020 12:31:34
When I saw the phone accessory lenses in the message from Nicholas Farr, I remembered that I also bought something like that, but never used it in earnest, Who keeps a box of accessories always in the pocket - not me.
But now out for a test. What I just had nearby was my Decca London cartridge. Gave quite a good picture, but not nearly good enough to check the diamond.
SOD mentioned the focus stacking method. Don't we all have a means to change object distance in very small increments, in form of the cross slide on our lathes? Methink it would be interesting to do some experiments.
|Thread: Thread to discuss Solid Edge 2D and 3D|
Sorry for the delay, other matters went in-between, and I'm also unsure about what I want to write.
Stand now is the following: I tried to re-create a 'thing' I did in Onshape and which I found quite difficult to do, in the way I did it. Inagine a L, lying on the long side, but the short side not vertical. Like that perhaps: ___/
Some other points: - I tried to find these Youtube videos by Design Fusion, but all except two are for Fusion360, and the S.E. video is about surface modelling.
Ok, enough for today. I will be away for 2 or 3 days, but I will come back!
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