Member postings for Versaboss

Do I read that correctly, you are speaking about something in MEW issue 295???

The last issue I received was 293, May 2020. Something lost in transit, how long should I wait before taking action?
Waiting too long, and the leftovers are on the recycling skip.

Regards,
Hans

While I don' want to detain someone using ABS filament, I gave up after just a few trials and gave my spools away,

What I use now is ASA, with a bet temp of 80-90°, and a nozzle temp. of 235-240°. According to my IR thermometer, the real bed temp. is somewhat less. The print surface is BuildTak, anything holds perfectly on that.

material #2 is PET-G, bed temp 70°, nozzle temp 225°. No problems with the prints.

My printer is an Ortur, quite happy, although the print surface as delivered was scrap, and the leveling sensor does not work correctly. But the guides are imho better than what is used on Creality and Anet and similar ones.

Regards,
Hans

Well, I was interested in some features in this (up to now unknown to me) CAD app 'Back to the Drawing Board'.

Tried the whole evening to download the trial version, but no success. Although I had a MS account, and I could login to it, the download window did not recognise it. I went then through the quite complicated route to reset my password and rejoined with a new one. But what happened with that: yes, just the same. I can login to my account, but the download site says sorry, your password is wrong.

As the app is available for different hardware, it seems that the PC (this PC) should be known to the MS account. But what to do to register it - I dunno. Maybe I'm really too old for stuff like that.

Kind regards
Hans

P.S: would Mr, TickToc kplease stop citing every line in every entry, and then answering with one line... ISTR that we had this before, many weeks ago.

Edited By Versaboss on 01/07/2020 22:15:53

Edited By Versaboss on 01/07/2020 22:16:21

Ok, here I cannot have my mouth shut. I suppose in that sentence a 'not' is missing.

ABS is one of the easiest plastics to glue. It can be dissolved in Acetone (every 3D-printer knows that), and bonds also to Epoxies and Acrylics.

For 'most hard plastics', the secret lies in the preparation. I see that the flame treatment has already been mentioned, and with this method I glued two plates from (I suppose) Polypropylene, and it would be very hard to separate them again.

The method consists of 'brushing' the parts with a Propane torch or similar, without melting the plastic, but it becomes then hydrophilic (in contrary to the water-repellent or hydrophobe surface the plastic usually has).
It is best to try this before if you have an offcut , if water builds a film instead of dropping off, you got it right.

I think I saw this method in one of the well-known Dan Gelbart videos.

Regards,
Hans

Raphael, could you please tell us how much you moved the camera between these 30 images?

It would also be interesting if the stacking software says something what is sensible/necessary and what not.
Can images be stacked say with 1/100 mm distance, or is that nonsense? I hope you see what I would like to know.

Thanks, and regards
Hans

Edited By Versaboss on 24/05/2020 12:31:34

When I saw the phone accessory lenses in the message from Nicholas Farr, I remembered that I also bought something like that, but never used it in earnest, Who keeps a box of accessories always in the pocket - not me.

But now out for a test. What I just had nearby was my Decca London cartridge. Gave quite a good picture, but not nearly good enough to check the diamond.

SOD mentioned the focus stacking method. Don't we all have a means to change object distance in very small increments, in form of the cross slide on our lathes? Methink it would be interesting to do some experiments.

Kind regards
Hans

Hello all,

Sorry for the delay, other matters went in-between, and I'm also unsure about what I want to write.
To begin with the last contribution from Barrie, I don't understand the last sentence. I found the 'settings' button on the left side, I think it is the same as also in the top line with the triangle mark. When I choose the first 'theme' which is 'First steps' (sorry I have German names, but I think that's what I used), then I get that reduced toolbar. I checked the other 'themes' also, there are changes all over the place, but I can't say if these are functionally equivalent. Anyhow, I switched now to the 'balanced theme', which here is called S.E. standard.

Stand now is the following: I tried to re-create a 'thing' I did in Onshape and which I found quite difficult to do, in the way I did it. Inagine a L, lying on the long side, but the short side not vertical. Like that perhaps: ___/
I could draw the L and give it the dimensions I wanted (easy in S.E), and then I found a tool to rotate it, with two sub-tools. The first I don't remember (and can't find that tool atm.), and the second was '360°'. That's what I wanted anyway, but to my surprise it did not a 360° rotation, but I could sweep it around with the mouse. I stopped at about 270°, and then tre resulting body stood here on the screen, but all in deep read! From other programs I know that red usually means something is wrong, but I couldn't see any error message. That's where I am at the moment.
Experimenting with the themes, I hit on another problem. In Onshape there is also a build tree on the left side, and in any moment it is possible to go back in this tree and make changes, if something looks not right. How it is possible to do that in the S.E. tree I did not find out. I would like to go back to the 2D sketch (have to use this Onshape name) and redo it from there, but how? Naturally it would be simple to draw it again, only 6 lines, but sometimes the begin is a bit more complicated...

Some other points: - I tried to find these Youtube videos by Design Fusion, but all except two are for Fusion360, and the S.E. video is about surface modelling.
I had a look into the S.E. Forums and went straight back. There's not really a chapter for beginner's question, but what I found are people complaining about the way the forum works. In Onshape (yes, again...) I could ask questions and sometimes even got answers back directly from the developers.

Ok, enough for today. I will be away for 2 or 3 days, but I will come back!

Kind regards
Hans

I did just see that Barrie Lever started this thread as promised. So I jump in, full force.
Also, because I'm stuck quite hard atm.

Perhaps a word about me and my CAD 'experience' if I can call that like this. I never used any program professionally, but learned/used/dabbled in Autocad, TurboCad, GraphicsWork, TrueCad, ChoiceCad, AllyCad... and maybe some I have forgotten. I was one of the first 100000 users getting Xcad for free, which then later became Alibre. In none of these programs I got over more than a couple of simple drawings. Now, since some years, I'm using Onshaape and love it. So why trying to learn another program? Maybe just curiosity, and maybe because some things are integrated which in Onshape need paid extensions.

Jump forward to Solid edge now.
After I downloaded Solid Edge, nothing worked, as I had written before, but in this I was not alone. After a couple of days this problem was solved, and I started checking the tutorial videos. First disappointment was, that I found nothing about how to set up the program, as it has gazillions of 'levels' as it seems. It is very difficult to find a line in these videos. I had also a look into waht is available on Youtube, and there is some interesting stuff. But it is not easy to follow which actions someone executes on a video.

And this leads me also to the first problem. Almost in every video I see the Toolbar looks different, and these toolbars look Very different from that on my screen. To clarify, what I call Toolbar is the array on top of the screen, where the drawing tools are arranged.

Tutorial 1:

Tutorial 2:

My Toolbar:

And the clean Onshape-Toolbar:

So, what's the matter here?

Problem #2 maybe tomorrow

Kind regards,
Hans

As starter of this thread, I'm glad to report that Siemens again likes me...

But after my first very modest trial, I already am in difficulties. As this thread has gone wildly off-topic (the inch conundrum), I'm asking if it would be appropriate to discuss these problems here (esp. with Mr. Lever, who it seems has good knowledge), or if it would be better to start a dedicated Solid Edge thread? (hopefully staying on-topic).

Opinions welcome!

Regards
Hans

So I wanted also to see what all this noise about Solid edge is. Download Thursday night, went to sleep and installed on Friday. No hiccup, all ok. Then I clicked on one of the offered instruction files, and learned something about the different setups. But I had much trouble reading all, it's is in a very small and fuzzy font, and light blue on white is poison for my eyes. So when I stopped I was shown a box asking if this was helpful. I clicked 'no' and had the opportunity to write a remark. So I did, mentioning the two points above.

Returning today for another try, and nothing works. All the instruction boxes on the start screen are inaccessible...

Maybe that's the end with Solid Edge for me.

Regards,
Hans

And maybe it's important to remember that the sign of these packages is the sign of the Red Cross, not the flag of Switzerland. So they must be sharp, the ambulance is coming in a hurry if you cut your finger!

Regaeds, Hans

Edited By Versaboss on 04/05/2020 16:02:38

I used to drill larger holes (10 -12 mm) in CF plates with Diamond core drills.Quite sure I got them from ARC in England.

So for smaller holes I think I would also use the small diamond burrs, e. g. from Eternal Tools:

here

Regards,
Hans

More of the same problem here...

I have a complete set of M.E. from 1924 (because I wanted 'all from L.S.B.C' to 2013. Sorry having to say, they will all end in the recycling bin, rather sooner than later. But if someone wants a couple and agrees to pay the horrendous postage, then ask...

Kind regards,
Hans

Hello Celso (and Brian),

sorry but that is completely wrong. Your lathe is not the STB from Brian's link, and in his case STB means 'Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Saint Blaise S.A, Saint-Blaise (Suisse).

I own a filing machine from STB, the sign in the casting is exactly the same, but the number is '20'.
If necessary I can make a picture to prove.

More so, maybe your lathe is a Bremensis (never heard that, but what do I know...). I now have to watch the video, somewhere Brian must have found the letters? So possibly there is a firm using the same abbreviation.

Kind regards
Hans

P.S. Ok, I have seen it. So  what remains now is that Brian's STB is not your STB. My apology...

Edited By Versaboss on 07/03/2020 23:20:38

It's nice to see that Mr. C.T-T finally also has learned how to quote correctly. For such an old git like me it is really cumbersome to find out who has written what. I sincerely hope that from now on, as you wrote, you will move on.

Kind regards,
Hans

Used to make it myself when I was 13 years old (read: looong ago...). Cant remember the method, but most probably the one using KBr, MnO2 and sulphuric acid. See Wikipedia.

Kind regards,
Hans

(still around, no self poisoning...)

Two pages discussions about removing a stubborn screw? The OP didn't show his kitchen vise, but if it is anything usable I would:
- remove two jaws
- clamp the remaining two (180° naturally) in the vice
- file two flats on the protruding part of the screw (don't think these adaptors on a Sherline are hardened)
- use a wrench, mole-grip or what-have-you and apply torque! (in the correct direction...)

I don't think the financial loss would bring someone to tears.

Kind regards
Hans

Just to show what's going wrong: here a picture of the limits and fits button. 

Oh the troubles, when the .jpg is too big, nothing happens. 

Kind regards,
Hans

Edited By Versaboss on 03/12/2019 22:18:55

Edited By Versaboss on 03/12/2019 22:20:30

I can only repeat the numbers given by Steve above, 6.33 mm for a drive fit for a 6.35 (1/4" ) shaft.

Kind regards,
Hans

Edited By Versaboss on 03/12/2019 14:39:47

After several tries with the hints given here (installing as administrator* and unpacking into an 'ordinary' data file) I have, on Windows 10, still the same results as described by Thor above.

But, doing the same on my W. 8.1 laptop resulted in a correctly running program! All black on white background, fully usable!

Still wondering what's going on here. As it was running correctly for many years, I suspect 'something' was updated some time back.
Altogether again an example of the help one can get here; thanks to all!

(*) On W10 I had first to find out how to install myself as administrator, but the laptop has 'execute as administrator' in the context menu!

Kind regards
Hans