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Member postings for David Littlewood

Here is a list of all the postings David Littlewood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: eBAY - Shill Bidding
10/02/2013 13:13:13

I wish you guys wouldn't give the game away like that! I've been relying on the stupid bidding practices of others for years!


Thread: MEW200
09/02/2013 19:24:25


I agree the ball turning article was particularly interesting, but it was also the most frustrating, in that there was insufficient explanation or constructional detail. The function of some of the parts was quite difficult to fathom, at least I found them so.


Thread: That's one small step . . .
09/02/2013 18:30:19

ISTR similar techniques are used for making large domes and similar structures by spraying concrete. It may be that LNG storage tanks are made that way, its a few years since I was reading about them so I may be mistaken.


Thread: Machine Tool Task Light
09/02/2013 18:14:03

I think the article quite clearly did produce a cost per hour figure, so I can't agree with that criticism. I did however have two concerns about it. First, he appears to have accepted the power rating of the bulbs as being the same as the power consumption of the unit. This may be close to the truth with the incandescent bulbs, but may be far from true for the LED ones, where the transformer may dissipate more than the lights. Any article with pretensions to accuracy should have measured the power consumption; plug in power meters are cheap enough.

Second, I always feel concerned when writers mis-quote unit designations. Mr Theasby, the unit for energy you were using should be written kWh; in the article it was variously written as Kw/H and KW/h. The / means "per", and kW per hour, though it does exist as a meaningful unit, is NOT energy (it is in fact a ramp rate, the rate of change of power flows, well known to National Grid). The symbol W for watts is always capitalised (but the name is not); the symbol k for kilo (10^3) is always lower case (an exception to the general rule that increasers - M, G, T etc are upper case, and reducers are lower case) and the symbol h for hour is always lower case. There should also be a space between the number and the unit designation.

This may seem like nit-picking, but the standard methods exist in the SI system to minimise confusion and maximise rapid comprehension; if you are forever having to stop and work out what an author means it does not make for easy comprehension.


Edited By David Littlewood on 09/02/2013 18:21:07

09/02/2013 12:55:41

Yes, thanks Andrew. Do you have any idea where you could get - or how you would make - a torque wrench with an ER nut fitting at the business end?


Thread: New Forum Moderator
08/02/2013 22:59:23
Posted by NJH on 08/02/2013 22:51:39:

Hi Diane

What's so hard fix about a kettle and primus?

N cheeky

...Or a Sievert torch?


Thread: Inexpensive Chucks
06/02/2013 16:38:22

Michael and Alan were referring to the symbols ] and [ as brackets (quite correctly, I suspect). Those must be the ones missing on the Norwegian keyboard.

The stupid auto-smiley feature (spit) seems to react to things like semicolon-end parenthesis, They are an idiotic feature and some web designer deserves to be strung up by the wotsits. You can IIRC be avoided by putting a space between the two characters. I'll check here ; )


 Yes, worked.

Edited By David Littlewood on 06/02/2013 16:39:19

Thread: Very Small Drill
06/02/2013 12:34:07


Far better than using a lash-up, buy a suitable drill chuck, such as the 0.4-4.0 mm one on this page (first item): **LINK**

Only £12 (plus a few £ for an arbour) and you will be able to use it again and again...

Concentricity is important with tiny drill bits, and this will give you the best chance. Withdraw frequently to clear the flutes, clogging of the flutes is probably the most common cause of breakage at these small sizes.


Thread: Inherited Myford ML7 valuation
06/02/2013 12:24:26


I am curious to know why you say the "provenance" of an old Myford ML7 is "severely Devalued" just because the original Myford company has recently ceased trading. Provenance is usually understood to mean proof of its genuine origin; that can hardly have been affected by the company failure.

I agree Myfords were expensive, though they still IMO represent good value second-hand. To be fair though, the subject of this thread is rather at the lower end of the value range, and £500 would be the best one might expect to get. It may help the seller somewhat if he/she were to clean the machine and make it sparkle. No abrasives though!


Thread: Removal of Drilling Chuck from Mill/Drill Head
01/02/2013 15:49:54

Just a word of caution: if you put an MT shank with female screw thread for drabar into a socket which relies on a drift to remove it -- there isn't anything tfor the drift to push on. I got caught that way the first time I put my Arrand 2 MT test bar into a 2-3 MT adapter, had the devil's own job to get it out.

You can easily solve this - ARC sell natty little screw-in tangs to suit most common drawbar threads for a quid or so each, just the job as long as you remember to use them.


Edited By David Littlewood on 01/02/2013 15:51:17

Thread: drill sets
31/01/2013 20:10:11

You don't need the patent to have run out to make a copy for your own use.


Thread: Brass Durability
31/01/2013 20:08:51


There are hundreds of varieties of brass, with a very wide range of properties. Some of them have a tensile strength higher than mild steel; some are better than others for casting. A quick Google search threw up this useful looking resource:


I'm sure a more careful search would throw up many other informative sources.

Hope that may help.


Thread: What we did with Jason's bronze
30/01/2013 16:02:31


Thanks. Got so many photos on photobucket for other purposes I really don't want to start another tribe here, but here is the link to the image there:



30/01/2013 11:49:59

Here is a picture of the finished climbing novelty - I was waiting to get hold of some 3/4" stainless.

Now, any more of you want to share the results?


PS - Why are the pictures coming out so small? The link I inserted is to one twice that size. Maybe, after months of having problems with huge pictures messing the line wrap we have now had some limit imposed. If so, it's too small.

...And now the bloody writing is too small. Why is this web software so c**p?

Edited By David Littlewood on 30/01/2013 11:56:57

Thread: Books for model engineers
30/01/2013 11:41:36


A link would be useful; not at all obvious where to find them from the Amazon home page.


Thread: DTI Elephants foot
28/01/2013 22:27:00

I wonder just how important the accuracy of the elephant's foot really is. Its convenience arises AIUI from the fact that it is easier to make it sit on a round bar in the chuck, but once it is sitting there the part of the base in contact with the bar would not change much, if at all. Since the indicator is almost always being used as a zero checker (for runout), would it work any less effectively is it was slightly on the skew? I don't know the answer, I'm just suspicious of some of these frequently quoted "rules" - just like the one about the effect of tool centre height when cutting a taper.


Thread: Removal of Drilling Chuck from Mill/Drill Head
28/01/2013 12:57:13

This may not help the OP, but anyone who is making a spindle for MT tooling held by drawbar may find it useful. The Emco FB2 has a very neat system for removing taper tooling. The top of the spindle has an external thread; on this can be fitted a screwed cap with a hole in the top and two spanner flats on its side. The drawbar used is in effect a very long socket head cap screw. To remove taper tool, slacken off the drawbar slightly, screw the cap over the top of the drawbar head, insert Allen key into the drawbar, place spanner on flats on side of cap. Push Allen key anticlockwise (from above) and spanner clockwise. This forces taper tool out of socket with no risk from impact. The only risk is to your knuckles if you've overtightened the drawbar, when the thing releases with a jerk. Takes less time to do than to describe.

Obviously doesn't work for drill chucks with no drawbar thread, but these should not be held as tightly in the first place.


Edited By David Littlewood on 28/01/2013 12:58:33

Thread: Watch your snow melt
25/01/2013 13:33:03


You could always try insulating directly under the roof tiles (or whatever tops your house). It's much better for the contents of the loft; if you have a loft conversion it will be done that way anyway. Fibreglass between rafters, and then lining paper stapled to rafters to keep the dust in.


Thread: ME tapping dril sizes
24/01/2013 12:05:30


Listen to Roderick, he's the only one who has given the correct advice so far. Most thread tables give tapping drill sizes which are too small; this dramatically increases the risk of tap breakage, especially if they are not perfectly sharp. This is the worst for ISO metric threads (where the fact that the taps are bigger than nominal size is an added factor) but this is true to some extent for all sizes.

Buy the book he recommends, it'll be worth it, it's only about 5 quid!


Thread: Help with Myford ML7 please
23/01/2013 12:31:35

Good point, Norman. If, like me, you do much smaller-scale work (O gauge loco building in my case) then one of these sets is the dog's b******s:


- but see kit at bottom of next catalogue page (523C), for some reason I can't get the link to go there.

Rather expensive, but if you look in th MSC monthly sales flyer they are often much reduced (£86 + VAT instead of £135 + VAT this month). For parting off thin-walled 2 mm brass tube there's nothing to beat it.


Edited By David Littlewood on 23/01/2013 12:35:25

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