Here is a list of all the postings Robin King has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Imperial Fasteners|
It'd be worth emailing Martin Kirsopp at Emkay Screw Supplies with an enquir He's very helpful with odd one off imperial screws etc for machine rebuilds. Web search will find his website and contact email address.
|Thread: ME 1/4” Precision drill|
I've got the two drawings WE2 sheets 1 and 2; yours if you'd like to ping me a p.m.
|Thread: Fusible plugs for model loco boilers|
As I said earlier it's worth reading the whole of David's seminar notes to fully understand all of the points that he made and which are based on his long experience of building and testing boilers.
At the boiler inspectors seminar in Cardiff last month one of the speakers was David Vere and his view was that fusible plugs were problematic for a number of reasons not least being scale build up on the water side, combustion product deposits on fire side, and the difficulty of obtaining an alloy for the core which is suitable for the working pressure/temperature of the boiler. I don't know if David is a member of this forum and can contribute direct, but if not I'd suggest reading his two pages of seminar notes on the subject before making any decision as to plug or not. I've no doubt that Southern Fed would provide a copy of asked.
|Thread: Adding cladding for a large boilered Tich ... is it worth the effort?|
I've looked at this for my small boilered Tich which I acquired many years ago, and which has never been painted. As it's currently stripped down for overhaul I've been looking at the possibility of cladding the boiler with thin steel sheet from a sign which already has a good painted surface (ex tyre sales sign) so should hopefully be a good base for a paint finish. The disadvantage is that the increase in o/a diameter of boiler + cladding requires adjustment of the dome base to seat properly. I doubt that any worthwhile gain can made by including insulation.
|Thread: Tyres for bandsaw|
From experience with my Naerok bandsaw it's was a waste of effort trying the short cut repairs.
I finally found Band Saw Tire Warehouse in the USA and they supply blue urethane belts purpose made for the Naerok (and other makes) which are a first class product. I fitted some few years ago and they transformed the belt grip and accuracy of my machine and proved well worth the cost.. You have to warm up the belts in hot water before fitting as they are a tight fit on the wheels; full instructions are supplied. You can find them either by web search or via their Ebay shop.
|Thread: Bandsaw blades|
www.trucutbandsaws.co.uk make them to order - I've had blades from them for my Naerok bandsaw - good price/product and happy to take phone queries. Btw mine takes 70 1/2" blades which I think is the correct size.
|Thread: Hello from west wales|
'Young' George forgot to mention that he's currently - but not for much longer - the youngest member of our ME society, the Cambrian Model Engineers, which covers mid Wales. There are a group of our members around the Llanidloes area which is about as far west as we go so far. Where are you?
|Thread: Errors and Omissions|
Thanks Jason; I wasn't aware of either of those.
Well worth the effort to save a lot of frustration, going on my own experience, and hopefully some kind soul will take it on.
The late Alan Stepney used to maintain a list of drawing errors on his website drawn from details submitted by various contributors. Although his website has disappeared since his passing an archived version can still be accessed at 'http://alanstepney.info/index.html', although no longer updated.
|Thread: M Type Apron Direction|
The late Martin Cleeve described the construction of a replacement apron designed to deal with that problem - from memory in ME late 1950's/early 60's. I built one for my old ML1 - worked a treat.
|Thread: My Hercus 9 Restoration.|
It's 1951 vintage, model A with rear motor mount, all imperial threaded fixings.
That pin passes through the locking collar into the key to hold it in place lengthways in the keyway. If you give the projecting end of the key a light tap inwards towards the centre of the bore it'll separate from the pin.
To remove the pin - put the key back in the keyway with the blank section pressing against the inner end of the pin. Put something like a piece of steel tube or a socket over the outer end of the pin, then fit a C clamp over the key and tube, tighten it, and it should push the pin outwards. Don't be tempted to use a hammer/punch from the opposite side as it can damage the collar.
When that's out you can unscrew the locking collar and remove the worm gear. On my Boxford it was a tight fit doing this as the plain end section of the worm went tight up to the clutch gear but it's just do-able.
Edited By Robin King on 25/01/2019 10:16:07
Quick check shows Amazon list it.
BTW - Some years ago I bought a copy of a very useful fully illustrated manual - 'A Guide to Renovating the South Bend 9" Model A, B & C Plus Model 10K' lathes published by ILION Industrial Services LLC in the USA. It details the overhaul/adjustment of these machines and might help you a lot with the Hercus.
IIRC I ordered it direct from the publisher so a web search should find them.
Er, no it isn't - it's a LH thread - unscrew clockwise.
Just a suggestion, but you might already know this - if not have a look at Tony Griffith's site - 'www.lathes.co.uk' and his section on the Hercus lathes. Some way down there's a photo of the front of the apron and immediately under it a link to 'article about rebuilding Hercus apron ........' . It details a complete rebuild, including the pitfalls, so well worth a read. It helped me a lot with my Boxford rebuild (another Southbend clone).
Best of luck with it
|Thread: Autocad 2000 Cant draw at a chosen angle.|
My knowledge is of AutoCAD LT but I suspect that the basics are identical to your package so here's a suggestion.
On the toolbar at top of the screen click on 'Format' then 'Units' which brings up the 'Drawing Units' table. At the bottom is a button 'Direction' which brings up the 'Direction Control' panel. This sets up the degrees zero point, and usually shows the 'East' button lit up which sets zero at the 3 o'clock position - the ACAD default. You can change that to suit your own needs by selecting the 'Other' button but I'd suggest leaving it at East for now. Bear in mind that in AutoCAD degree entries are default set to work anticlockwise from zero; you can change that to clockwise by going back to the Drawing Units panel where you need to check the box marked 'clockwise', but see my note below as well.
It'd be worth running through the above just to confirm that the basic settings are correct.
The other question is - which direction do you want your line to go down from your line start point i.e. 30 degrees down from horizontal to the left or 30 degrees down to the right? If the first (with zero degrees at 3 o'clock) I'd be entering '@70<210' i.e 30 degrees beyond 180 degree working anti clockwise, or for the second - '@70<330' i.e. 30 degrees short of the full anti clockwise circle. The latter can also be entered as '@70<-30' - the minus sign reversing the direction of rotation (i.e. clockwise).
|Thread: Drill Doctor 750SP|
Nick, that's exactly the problem - none of us like to admit defeat and as engineers we like to think that we can resolve the problems! So far no good on this one
I've had exactly the same experience with mine, and as a result it's now been under the bench for years. According to the manufacturer's video it should be dead easy to get good results every time but I've never managed it; always produced negative clearance.
Any clues would be a great help.
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