Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Moyes 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: super 7 headstock wick|
The grub screw on the left (at the bottom of the backgear detent hole) sits in a groove in the backgear eccentric. It locates the eccentric sideways. It needs to be backed off a little to allow the eccentric to turn. The grubscrew is locked in position by a second grub screw at 90 degrees to the first and is inserted from the right.
Above the second grub screw is a third which is the one you remove to insert a pin into the wick. (I think that's the one marked 'allen key' in your photo). No need to use the pin when you strip out the spindle. You only need the pin on reassembly. Poke the wick down against the spring and hold it there out of the way with the pin until the spindle is in place. Then withdraw the pin and replace the grub screw.
|Thread: Tool drawer organising|
Well done Geoff. As I get older, I find it imperative to be tidier. I can't remember putting stuff down but at least I know where to look.
|Thread: PTFE die block|
Has anyone tried Tufnol (synthetic resin bonded fabric) as used to be used for example for contact breaker cams in motor cars?
|Thread: Original maching marks on Myford lathe bed|
Most wear takes place on the vertical shears and I think the machine marks usually referred to are the milling marks on those. For some reason Myford ground the top but not the shears. After about a thou of wear, the milling marks disappear. Compare the appearance of the untouched front shear on the right hand side (in front of the tailstock) with that near the gap.
Edited By Andrew Moyes 1 on 22/04/2014 13:37:15
|Thread: dore westbury mill|
I built a Mark 1 about 1980 and still use it even though I have a Tom Senior mill as well. The kit of parts came with a very thorough set of instructions and full size drawings.
I don't believe it was ever serialised in Model Engineer. I have taken ME since the late 1960s and it has definitely not been in since then.
|Thread: Using rainwater in boiler|
Is water from a dehumidifier also suitable, assuming you can get enough of it for your purpose?
|Thread: Myford gearbox and leadscrew|
Yes, use the standard leadscrew but you will need to shorten it as per instructions. No need to cut a keyway and there are no internal keys on this shaft; it passes straight through the gearbox to pick up on the external gear on the left.
I've just checked the Myford Yahoo site for the gearbox installation instructions and they are under 'Files' s7gbox2.pdf
The Super 7 has a 3/4" leadscrew which is the same diameter as the hole through the gearbox. No need to fit a sleeve as shown on John's ML7 photo
The arrangement for the ML7 is different and the reason for the sleeve is to join the 5/8" diameter ML7 leadscrew to the 3/4" shaft in the gearbox. It would be worthwhile reading the Myford instructions for fitting a gearbox and I think you will find them on the Myford Yahoo Group, which is worth joining.
|Thread: Top Slide Lock|
I did the modification and highly recommend it. Preventing sideways movement of the gib improved the feel of the topslide movement, and the locking screw works a treat.
GHT describes how he made a step in the hole so that the parallel dowel pin is a slight interference fit when pressed fully home. I didn't have the non-standard drill size he used (3.15mm from memory). I hesitate to suggest an improvement on the work of the great maestro but I found it easier to ream a parallel hole in the topslide and gib then turn the dowel with a 0.5 thou step instead. The hole can be reamed with everything assembled and the hole slightly overhanging the base.
|Thread: Rotary Laser centre finder|
Fascinating. Just what I need for centring holes etc. Strange it isn't commercially available yet. I've got to make one...
Further on, he makes the case for a 4 jaw SC chuck which is my preference too for normal round and square stock. I'd always thought the 3 jaw was really for hex stock but I hadn't realised you could hold hex in a 4 jaw as well. The angled hole in the nut is a great idea too.
Thanks for the link from me as well. I must watch some more of his videos.
|Thread: Woman's Logic|
I'd paint it black and have done with it.
|Thread: ML7 Topslide limitations|
I remember now. It was the very first thing I made when I bought an ML7; a Stuart centrifugal pump. I thought it would be an easy first project until I needed to take a facing cut across the blades. They are required to be at a slight angle, not possible with the standard topslide. The solution was to use the vertical slide with its table parallel to the axis of the lathe. The top of the vertical slide was rotated slightly towards the headstock by the required angle and the tool was mounted in a vice on the slide, pointing towards the headstock.
Ian Bradley in Myford ML7 Lathe Manual shows a solution using a sole plate interposed between the top slide and cross slide. The down side is that it reduces the size of tool that can be used to about 5/16".
I vaguely remember using a tool mounted on the swivelling vertical slide to get around the problem. I can't remember now how I did it - perhaps this will jog someone else's memory. Will post again if it comes to me!
|Thread: Coolant pump|
My money's on Les's solution. If you are using an ordinary inverter, the output is 230v 3 phase not 400v.
|Thread: Tom senior light vertical milling machinr|
Well done Ian. A good investment - I hope it gives you many years of pleasure.
|Thread: Myford tool posts and cutter tools|
That's the genuine article and is the make Myford used when they first introduced the QCTP. The bush is needed to fit the Myford toolpost but also serves the purpose of a stop for the cams.
|Thread: Adjusting the ML7 spindle bearings (New bronze version)|
I used a small worn-out half round file, ground off all the teeth then smoothed the cutting edges on an oilstone. The file is about 4" long overall and has been useful for all sorts of model engineering jobs since.
Don't let my earlier tribulations put you off; scraping is not difficult. The amount of metal you take off and ends up on your scraper is tiny compared to the amount you would remove by taking the finest of cuts with the lathe, so progress is naturally slow. How accurately you work depends on the thickness of engineer's blue you apply and you can use less as you home in on the final fit. There is something very satisfying about achieving a really good fit by hand methods that is better than you can achieve by machine - at least the sort of machines a model engineer uses.
Martin describes the method to use. I did my white metal bearings that way a long time ago. Of course, you must go carefully because if you go too far...
I carefully scraped mine to a really accurate fit then found to my dismay that when I bolted down the bearing caps, the shells expanded into their housings giving about a thou more clearance than intended. The shells were not as tight a fit as they should have been. As an expedient, I cut out some rectangles of cooking foil (0.4 thou thick, 0.8 thou on diameter) which I 'stuck' onto the outside of the shells with oil, put them back together and it came good. The static clearance measured using a clock gauge while pushing and pulling a bar in the chuck is still only 0.5 thou after 40 years of use.
|Thread: World of Model Engineering downloads|
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