Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Moyes 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Poly-vee problem - S7 mod|
|Cabeng - that's a cunning solution. I'll modify mine likewise next time I change the belt.|
Mine were about £13 each, last year. Perhaps I should import a few?
Hi Cabeng - I see our interests coincide again.
I have noticed the same problem with the Z section belt on my Super 7 Plus. Having got it otherwise running like a sewing machine, I wondered why there was a rattle on just the top two highest speeds. A squirt of oil into the headstock pulley bearing confirmed the source was endfloat. The oil stopped the noise for a few minutes until the surplus oil worked its way out. Running the lathe at slow speed revealed that the belt had a sideways lump, for want of a better description. While it is an annoyance, I decided that it was not a 'problem' as such and that I should live with it until the belt is renewed, probably for a Brammer type that has had some positive feedback on this forum.
I suspect that any belt, whether vee- or poly- is going to be imperfect in relation to the 5 thou or so endfloat recommended by Myford. If it is really unbearable then I wonder if there is another approach and that is to stop the metal-to-metal contact causing the rattle. Myford used fibre washers on the ML7 countershaft and that didn't rattle. While I wouldn't choose fibre because it seems to release fibrous material that makes the oil run black, a very thin washer machined out of a slug of PTFE or acetal might do the trick. One washer on each side of the pulley.
By the way, I would be interested to know where you were able to obtain NSK 7007A bearings in the UK. I couldn't find any but bought mine while passing through Hong Kong. I was offered two types, both marked NSK 7007A. One had a pressed steel cage like the Myford originals and the other, for the equivalent of a pound or so more, had a beautifully made machined brass cage. I chose the latter and went to the trouble of machining a thin wall tube to press the outer races in without subjecting the balls to any damage. They are totally silent in operation, unlike the steel caged bearings in electric motors.
|Thread: Recommended Dial Indicators|
Sorry to be late joining this thread. For a beginner, I would not recommend a dial test indicator but one like this...
I have several DTIs, the best being a secondhand Baty and a new Mercer, but the device that gets used 95% of the time is this Starrett no.564 indicator. Mounted at centre height in a quick change toolholder on the arms supplied with the indicator, I can quickly manoeuvre it into pretty well any position. The pointer reads positive for movement of the stylus in either direction and the stylus head can be rotated through 360 degrees. It's discontinued now but I got one for £7 on eBay that was new but not working. I took a gamble that I could fix it and it turned into one of my best buys on eBay. There was a tiny amount of corrosion inside which was stopping it from working. It came in this rather nice wooden box...
It replaced a similar Verdict indicator I'd used for 30 years that didn't have the advantage of the rotating head. Of course, it's a comparator and no use for absolute measurement but in practice I rarely find the need to do the latter. I'd be interested to hear the views of others.
|Thread: Lathe Accuracy|
Sorry Len, I can't help you with that but if you join the group here
you'll have access to that and much more.
Going back to the original post asking for the manufacturing tolerances of the Myford Connoisseur, on the Yahoo Myford lathe group website, in the files section there is
I don't know whether the origin of the information was Myford itself or it is just someone's suggestion but the figures are a pretty good benchmark for a lathe of Myford size. When I checked mine, all but a couple were within tolerance. A little fettling brought them all within the figures quoted.
|Thread: Myford ML7 Quick change tool post|
I agree with the others regarding A&R Precision. Forget the foreign-made toolposts - there are too many tales of interchangeability problems and faulty parts. Go for the genuine British A&R product which is beautifully made and no more expensive. They are made in small batches and sold on eBay. They were stopped by RDG from using the Myford name anywhere in their adverts, even though they were the supplier to Myford before the Beeston factory closed.
As Jon says, they are still in business and in fact were selling the rear version of the toolpost up at a week or so ago.
They don't seem to have a website but their phone number is 024 765 10020. I have no connection other than being a very satisfied user.
|Thread: S7 Newall DRO v Taper Turning attachment|
Thanks Cabeng for the drawing of the Don Ainley lock. To my eyes, that's more elegant than the version I referred to in MEW163. I'll go with your recommendation and will move it up my to-do list!
Mike - thanks for your explanation. I see where you were coming from now.
Hello Mike. The photo you posted is of my lathe when it was new and is one I posted to my album when this topic came up before.
I have read and re-read you penultimate post and confess I can’t understand it, especially the reference to socket head cap screws securing the gib. The gib on the saddle is not made in the same way as that on the Super 7 cross-slide. The counterbored cap screws are to secure the apron to the saddle, not the gib to the saddle. The gib is rectangular and is free to float, being pushed into contact with the front shear by the three screws in the front of the saddle that have locking nuts.
The saddle lock is the hexagon head screw that sticks up above the top of the saddle, with the oil nipple immediately behind it. When Myford fitted the Newall DRO and moved the saddle lock to the front, they used a similar construction of saddle lock. The rear lock has a thick mild steel disc that sits in a counterbore in the underside of the saddle. The disc and counterbore are offset to the screw so that one side of the disc extends under the shear to clamp the saddle when the screw is tightened. In its front incarnation, it’s a rectangular block instead of a disc.
The problem is that in the front position, mine just doesn’t work. I have lost count of the number of times that I have moved the saddle with the handwheel, not realising that the lock is still applied – which tells you how ineffective it is. A closer look showed that the screw is too far away from the front shear to apply enough clamping force – the geometry is not good. The reason is that the gib strip must pass between the screw and the front shear, which of course doesn’t apply when the lock is at the back of the saddle. A further thing I don’t like is that there isn’t room to swap the screw for a lever with a decent enough handle without fouling the DRO encoder. It means I have to use a spanner every time and often the screw is hidden from view under the topslide. Very inconvenient for an operation that will be done countless times in the life of the lathe.
Making an alternative lock has been on my to-do list for a while. There was a design for an external saddle clamp in MEW 163. I like the idea of using the thread dial indicator stud as a fixing for the clamp but I thought other aspects were a bit Heath Robinson. Another approach would be to drill and tap for a fourth gib adjusting screw and fit a handle so it locks the gib up tight, similar to that on the Myford top slide (and cross-slide of the ML7, not Super 7). The lever would be conveniently on the front of the saddle but it would involve a major strip-down to install.
If anyone can think of any other good solution, I would be glad to hear of it.
Edited By Andrew Moyes 1 on 01/01/2015 11:38:42
|Thread: Martin Evans oil pump design|
While looking for a mechanical lubricator design for my steamboat engine, I came across this by Martin Evans in ME3164. It seems to have the merit of simplicity but I am perplexed by the purpose of the gland on the ram. Any oil that leaks past the end of the ram will find its way out first through the four radial holes that are the ‘way in’ for the oil. Since the pressure at that point will be atmospheric, there will never be any pressure drop across the gland so it serves no purpose. It seems the design is entirely reliant on a very close fit between the ram and its bore at that bottom end. Any thoughts or experience?
|Thread: ML7 Crossfeed direct reading?|
|1 thou on the dial advances the tool by 1 thou. I read it that Martin wanted a dial that shows the change in diameter. Is that correct Martin?|
Should that be twice the number of divisions? One old division will equal two thou on the diameter.
|Thread: EN8 steel finish|
Thanks to ‘thaiguzzi’ and Les for the link to the vertical shear tool. Fascinating, and quite unlike any other lathe tool I have seen described elsewhere. I tried it and can confirm all that is said on the link – good finish, ability to take a very fine cuts but tool wears quickly etc.
The main drawback seems to be that it can’t be used to finish right up to a shoulder or turn a crank between webs. But it certainly has its uses.
|Thread: ML7 Motor - what would you do?|
|I powered an ML7 with a 1/3hp MetVic motor for years without any problems. I agree a three phase motor and speed controller would be far better and especially advantageous on an ML7 as I'd fit a 2 pole 2800rpm motor to double the speed range. The standard top speed is too slow for most drilling. You'd need at least a 1/2hp motor, perhaps even 3/4hp to give enough torque at the higher speed and to prevent overheating under load when running at reduced speed. Don't believe anyone who says the white metal bearings won't take the higher speed. Mine were fine and Myford themselves offered a 2800/1450rpm dual speed motor for the Trileva version of the ML7 before electronic speed controllers became available.|
|Thread: Myford QC Gearbox|
The 6 o'clock position of the lever corresponds with the central sliding gear being exactly in line with the gear it meshes with on the adjacent shaft. If you do that, the other two gear positions will be correct.
I have just had the top of my gearbox using a ball ended 3/16" Allen key on the back right hand screw. No problem but maybe mine wasn't so tight as yours.
|Thread: dore westbury problem|
Michael - yes, that's the firm. He reground the table and slideways and built up the vees with Turcite on my Tom Senior mill. Did a lovely job. Also recently ground an Abwood vice and a magnetic chuck while I waited. Well recommended.
Kevin - the machining of the castings as supplied was not very accurate. That was the nature of the beast and you were left either to live with the inaccuracies or correct them as you built it.
I shimmed the column to bring in into square with the base, and put jacking screws in the tee at the top of the column to pull it square while the Loctite set. The most annoying was to spend many hours filing and scraping the steel bar for the ways and scraping them on the base to a surface plate only to apply the saddle and find the two surfaces had been ground at an angle to each other. So I had to make the bars 'wrong' to compensate. Despite all the tribulations, it is capable of some surprisingly accurate work.
Nowadays, I would simply bung it all in the boot and take it to Brian Caddy at Slideway Services in Coventry and within an hour, for a very reasonable price, it would all be true.
|Thread: Does anybody own a Sieg Nano Lathe ?|
Can I just correct a common misunderstanding here? The Myford 'safe reversing' feature on big-bore lathes is a misnomer in my opinion, as a user. The hole for the grub screw has a shoulder to stop the screw from contacting the vee groove in the spindle register. This is so that it does not pull the chuck out of truth. So, when the chuck starts to unscrew, it rotates about half a turn before the grub screw does contact the groove and stops the chuck coming right off. Still very worthwhile if it stops a chuck spinning off at speed but it does not mean you can use the lathe safely to apply a cut in reverse.
|Thread: super 7 headstock wick|
Take out the allen socket grub screw where you have marked 'allen key' on your photo and poke the pin in the hole which is more or less in line with the spot marked 4 in your diagram. No need to touch the retaining plug which you can't get at anyway without removing the headstock.
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