Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Moyes 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Eccentric's "Turnado"|
8mm nominal, 7.98mm to be exact.
|Thread: Saw doctor|
Tewkesbury Saw Company can be recommended.
|Thread: Lathe steady position|
It certainly looks like an error in manufacture. That will be tricky to sort by redrilling. Perhaps an easier solution would be to make new fingers with offset ends. Or modify the existing ones by soldering flat pads onto the ends, marking where they touch the workpiece and angling the ends to suit.
|Thread: Big end lubrication|
Duncan, I'm sure you're right regarding siphoning effect when the oil flow is continuous, for example with a force feed system as in a car. But a drip feed won't provide enough oil to maintain a continuous flow. Once it stops, if my theory is correct, it won't restart when the engine is running.
David, I suppose the hydrodynamic theory could be checked on a model by experiment. Remove the connecting rod, wrap some kitchen paper towel around the big end and secure it with tape. Then run the crankshaft with a motor drive and turn on the drip feed lubricator. See if the oil gets through to the towel.
Was this method ever used in full size? On locos the lubricator was mounted on the big end. On many stationary engines, there was a ring beyond the end on the crankshaft and concentric with it, the inside of the ring being a channel. Oil was dripped into the channel and tubed from there to the big end. That clearly avoids the problem. I'm not sure what marine practice was on multi-cylinder engines which, unlike locos, couldn't be stopped to replenish big end lubricators.
Apologies if I didn't make myself clear. The oil is fed in at the main bearing but until it has travelled through to the centre of the shaft, against centrifugal force, it won't go any further. Or so it seems to me.
I am in the final stages of making a Stuart 5a and am making drip feed oilers for the main bearings to Myfordboy’s design. The big end is lubricated as per Stuart’s drawings by an oilway drilled at an angle through the web to the centre of one main bearing. I am wondering how the oil finds its way against centrifugal force to the centre of the shaft in the main bearing. Beyond that point centrifugal force will of course fling it out to the main bearing. I can see how it would work in a pressurised system such as a car engine with an oil pump but not with a gravity feed. It seems to be common practice in model engineering eg many ET Westury engines but not full size as far as I'm aware. Does it work in practice and if so, how?
|Thread: Myford Super7 Chuck and Tool Holder points|
Myford started listing the 5” SC chuck so big bore users could make full use of the 26mm hole and 4MT taper in the spindle. On a small bore lathe you will only be able to hold shortish stock before it bottoms out in the 2MT socket. So the benefit will be limited.
I rarely use the 5” chuck on my big bore lathe as I find the 4” more manageable but I guess it all depends on what you use it for. You could always use the 6” independent chuck or an ER40 collet chuck for larger stock. I believe ER32 collets are now available in the range 20-26mm too.
The Dickson style toolholders can be modified to take 12mm tools, see Steve Jordan’s video on YouTube "Easy method of modifying Myford Dixon quick change tool holders". The material is tough so doing several holders may be hard work.
Another alternative would be to remove the compound slide and substitute your own base with some gain in rigidity for heavy turning. Some have machined such a base using a 5” backplate casting (see post on this forum "Toolpost base for Myford cross slide". The compound slide is then reserved for turning tapers. You can machine the new base lower so the QCTP will accommodate 12mm tooling without further modification.
Edited By Andrew Moyes 1 on 13/08/2019 21:54:44
Edited By Andrew Moyes 1 on 13/08/2019 21:55:28
|Thread: Adjustable 3-jaw chuck designs|
There is the adjustable backplate sold in kit form by Hemingway.
|Thread: Wiggler or edge finder?|
I too bought an American 'General' wiggler many years ago and encountered the stiffness described by you and George Thomas in his book. It was easily solved by mounting the body minus the nut in the three-jaw chuck then expanding the collet jaws by forcing them apart with a 60 degree centre in the tailstock. By going gently, I was able to achieve just the right amount of grip on the ball. Since then, I have had very satisfactory service from the wiggler.
More recently, I bought a cheap Chinese electronic centre finder, thinking it would be even easier to use and more accurate. I wasted my money. The ball was a couple of thou off centre from the body. I took it apart and re-machined the ball seating. Even then it wasn't satisfactory because any eccentricity in a three-jaw chuck is replicated at the ball giving an intermittent contact. The light starts to come on before true centre and gets brighter until you have gone a similar distance beyond true centre. It's impossible to determine the true centre. Whereas my old General wiggler centres itself regardless of any inaccuracy in the chuck. Has anyone invented a self-centring electronic centre finder?
|Thread: Myford Vice for Vertical Slide|
I've checked mine and for all practical purposes it's a square corner. Put it this way, it's never been an issue with the radius on any workpiece. Perhaps the milling cutter had become worn when yours was made. There is a 1/16" X 1/16" undercut on the moving jaw that ensures the jaws close tightly. I think you would be justified in cleaning out the corner or undercutting but the problem will be avoiding spoiling the sliding surface. Perhaps go in at a slight angle with a dovetail cutter? It would raise the stress as has been pointed out but I'd have thought there is enough in hand in the design.
|Thread: Stuart No. 2 centrifugal pump - machining help needed|
The Stuart no2 pump was the very first thing I machined on my brand new Myford back in the 1970s. I chose it because it looked easy, then struggled with the impeller.
The casting was held in the 4 jaw with the flat back facing the tailstock. It was faced off then the blind hole in the centre was drilled and tapped. The remaining machining was done with it mounted on its shaft which was held in the 3 jaw chuck. So far so good.
My problem was that I couldn't set the top slide over to the very shallow angle needed to machine the front of the impeller. The ML7 won't go beyond 45 degrees. There are various fixes for this which have been covered since then on this forum but having to make extra tooling can be quite off putting to a beginner. I solved it by mounting the vertical slide on the cross slide. The tool was held in a vice bolted to the vertical slide with the tool pointing towards the headstock on the centre line of the lathe but moving vertically up and down. The vertical slide could then be tilted a few degrees from the vertical to achieve the shallow taper. No extra tooling needed.
If yours is a Super 7 or some other make with a different top slide design, you may not have the same problem.
|Thread: 2mt Myford Collet|
My old Myford catalogues say 'Collets are available in 64th increments in sizes 1/16" to 1/2" and from 2 to 13 mm in 1/2mm increments." So I don't think a collet as small as 3/64ths was made and would explain why you can't find one. I hope this helps!
|Thread: Rectangular magnetic chucks for milling?|
I recently tried an Eclipse magnetic chuck for light milling on a Dore Westbury. It wasn't a success and I won't do it again. The chuck and end mill became magnetised and it all became a swirling mess of swarf. That doesn't happen with a (non-ferrous) grinding wheel of course.
Edited By Andrew Moyes 1 on 31/03/2019 19:43:10
|Thread: Fixed vertical metal bandsaw?|
I recently bought a secondhand Myford ML8 woodwork bandsaw attachment with the intention of using it for metalwork. They occasionally come up on ebay for about £80 - £100. I have secondhand ML8 lathe (there are plenty of those on ebay) and have shortened the tubular bed to make the bandsaw into a dedicated machine. Having said that, the unused side of the headstock might be fitted with a faceplate and table, and used as a disc sander.
The Myford bandsaw is very solidly made and I hope it will be good for metalwork. It's quite small by woodwork standards but big enough for my metalwork. The plan is to use the pulleys in the headstock to slow down the blade speed and if necessary a variable speed drive on the motor.
|Thread: ML7 tailstock angle alignment adjustment|
|At the risk of stating the obvious, the cam lock has to be released before the set over screws can do their job. I remember that wasn't obvious to me when I first bought an ML7 many years ago.|
|Thread: Dore westbury|
John - if you join Yahoo Groups and join the group for dwmill, you'll find the drawings in the files section.
|Thread: Super seven spindle extension tube.|
The gear train cover on my big bore machine has a cast-in counterbore around the hole for the spindle to ensure the swarf doesn't fall onto the gears. The flanged collar on the left hand end of the spindle, supplied with the lathe, makes sure the swarf falls clear. Is yours not the same? I can't tell from your photos. Here's mine...
|Thread: Needle thrust bearings|
I have a pair of needle thrust bearings which I intend to install on the cross slide feedscrew of my Myford, as described George Thomas’s book ‘The Model Engineers Workshop Manual’. I now realise I don’t understand how these bearings work. In a taper roller bearing, the inner end of the roller is smaller than the outer to allow for the smaller circumference per revolution. In the needle thrust bearing, the rollers are parallel. Won’t that mean that the rollers are in a state of sliding or scrubbing rather than rolling? How do they work without friction? Am I missing something?
|Thread: Problems with a breadmaker|
|I put the lopsidedness down to the ball of dough coming to rest on one side of the machine. Adding a tiny bit more water might make it self level a bit more. I've also got the impression that adding slightly more water makes a loaves rise more if they are heavy (especially wholemeal). Worth a try. I agree that batches of flour and yeast do vary as well. I've used Panasonic for years and it's the one kitchen gadget that's stood the test of time.|
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