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Member postings for Ian P

Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Micro Mill
09/12/2019 10:58:52

This is my belt drive conversion.

The PolyVee is really only one of the modifications that have transformed this mill. The weight of the motor is no longer dulling the feel of the quill as I elongated the keyway in the spindle and mounted the pulley on ballraces so its more like a conventional quill. I also moved the Z axis leadscrew so it is much closer to the dovetail slide so is no longer on whet felt like a flexible mount.

This picture was take a while ago and the motor has been changes since. It currently fitted is a 4000rpm 1Kw servo motor (because I had it) which has massive torque from zero rpm up to 8000, not that I run at that speed for long.

Ian P


Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019
08/12/2019 16:55:20

Forgive my ignorance, but what is a float lock vice?

Ian P

Thread: Fixing the AVO
08/12/2019 16:48:10

You have my admiration for rewinding a moving coil meter!

When I've examined some meter movements (probably smaller than AVO size) the whole moving assembly looks to use watch sized components like tiny jewels held in microscopic collets held together with shellac or similar. I would never have thought they were repairable.

Ian P

Thread: Meddings Pillar Drill, VFD and referb
06/12/2019 13:04:41

Can you clarify what you mean by 'connected' and 'connect' in the first sentence. (ie it worked when connected, but not when you?)

Ian P

Thread: Nuts
06/12/2019 10:30:00
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 06/12/2019 07:23:05:
Posted by old mart on 05/12/2019 22:00:01:

If I am right about the studs passing from one side of the bridge to the other […]



More later ... I’m off to the Dentist sad


The dentist should be knowledgeable on the subject of drilling, maybe discuss (not easy when your mouth is otherwise occupied)wink

Ian P

05/12/2019 22:49:39
Posted by old mart on 05/12/2019 22:00:01:

If I am right about the studs passing from one side of the bridge to the other, it would also explain the nut length and sequence. The nuts would have to be extremely tight, and would cause a large amount of tension stretching of the studs. This could be measured in inches rather than fractions of an inch. A long nut of three diameters or more would be safer to tension than the standard length of nut, and the short nut is probably just there to use up the remaining length of thread, and not as a serious lock nut. It also looks the part to casual onlookers.

If you are right about the studs passing through the whole structure then I think they would have to be put in position when the bridge was built.

How on earth could a 1" or so hole be so accurately drilled (guided) over that length and end up in line with

the holes in the bracket?

Ian P

04/12/2019 10:06:49
Posted by JasonB on 04/12/2019 07:38:58:

Ian, I think you are seeing 6 fixings but the top ones into the concrete have a rectangular "washer" not square like the lower 4

Yes you are right, on closer inspection I can see the large rectangular plate on the top bolt.


04/12/2019 07:32:20

If the bridge in the Google Earth picture is the same one as the one in Michael photograph then the bracket looks to have been modified or altered at some stage.

In Michael's picture there are 6 fixings to the masonry but there appears to be 8 in the second image.

Just curious.

Ian P

Thread: Amplifier Repairs..
03/12/2019 11:08:31

I fully concur with everything Dave said.smileysmileysmiley

Ian P

Thread: Suggestions to pack round DC motor so bracket holds
03/12/2019 11:01:57

I know (knew) your answer referred to NDIY's comment but TBH his suggestion of a making a proper mount makes perfect sense to me.

From previous posts of Chriss TT I deduce that he is very particular in doing everything correctly and by the book!

Ian P

03/12/2019 10:20:52

I have nothing whatsoever against bushings if they are fit for purpose, although I would not describe go-cart tyres, inner tube rubber, amalgamating tape, Neoprene insertion ('insulation'?) rubber or strips of wood as being simple in the context of a holding the motor and therefore spindle of a grinding tool accurately located.

Maybe I have the wrong end of the stick and the motor being clamped carries a pulley for a belt drive so a resilient mount might be very appropriate.

Ian P

02/12/2019 22:47:06
Posted by Chris TickTock on 02/12/2019 21:49:55:
Posted by Paul Kemp on 02/12/2019 21:43:12:
Posted by Chris TickTock on 02/12/2019 21:35:12:

Point taken that a rigid mount is important. However once clamped up neoprene I think would also be firm. There also exists if I use wood an increased risk of causing damage to the motor body as the load will be concentrated on the few points that the wood is positioned.. I agree I am being speculative but will try the neoprene first and the wood as my fall back position.

Thanks for all posts...appreciated


If the motor has a cylindrical body and no other mounting features than presumably the manufacturer will have designed the outer casing to withstand being clamped or held so no need to take any special precautions.

Ian P

02/12/2019 22:42:48
Posted by Chris TickTock on 02/12/2019 21:35:12:
Posted by Michael Briggs on 02/12/2019 21:27:42:

+1 Emgee, I like simple effective solutions.

Can anyone advocating the use of wood here give a reason why it might be better than for instance neoprene?


Using natural resources is better for the environment.


Thread: Wanted help with machining small ali components
30/11/2019 22:08:24


There may be dozens people here that could make your parts, one of them might live round the corner to you!

Some indication of your location and more (even vague) details of 'bespoke aluminium components' will help garner replies.

Ian P

Thread: Ho hum it's a cracker, but not in a good way!
30/11/2019 21:55:20

I have always wondered how one knows where to actually drill the holes to prevent the crack spreading?

Yes, each end of the crack, but the visible end of crack on the surface might not be the whole story as the crack may continue under the surface at an angle. A hole drilled with the best intentions might actually weaken the casting. In an ideal word (not that a crack is ideal) a hole drilled just past the end of the crack will allow the crack to continue only as far as the hole and no further.

As to the OP's top slide, I would carry on using it. As long as underside of the toolpost and the top face of the topslide is too then there should be little stress or strain on the crack.

Ian P

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
30/11/2019 21:33:34
Posted by Danny M2Z on 30/11/2019 11:50:40:

Today I had a play with my new toy Digital Torque Wrench which although purposed for fine tuning my target shooting rifles I noticed that it might be useful for the head bolts on my model aircraft engines.It was!

* Danny M *

Is the torque wrench in your link the correct one?

There is no mention of digital or electronics on the webpage, in fact there is little mention of anything that has any real meaning. If I were a potential customer for a small torque wrench the lack of a proper description or specification would eliminate that one in a flash.

Ian P

Thread: ARC Catalogue No.11
27/11/2019 20:22:37

I've only just glanced through Catalogue 11 but I like it!

Its set out well, easy to find things and obviously has been a lot of work for someone to compile and edit.

Despite what Ketan said about company policy, its infinitely better than a PDF version, but I've no doubt that in the fullness of time that's what he/we will end up with.

Ian P

Thread: Back saw for cutting steel and brass?
27/11/2019 14:21:47

Ah, that makes sense now, thanks

Ian P

27/11/2019 12:43:12
Posted by Nigel Watts on 27/11/2019 11:40:32:

The question is where to get such a saw, or how to make one. How many tpi? what should it be made be made of? Hardened or unhardened, and if the former how would one sharpen it?

I think you would have to be very dedicated to make a saw from scratch!

It does not matter what its made from as long as its harder than the material its going to cut, 99.9% of saw's are made of steel and hardened in some way. Number of teeth, or the specifically the pitch, depends on the diameter of the screwhead as there should always be several teeth in engagement in the length of the cut.

Whilst the earliest makers of timepieces would have cut the slots with a saw or narrow file I bet its wasnt such a long time before they started to use slitting saws.

Do you want to cut the slots by hand to maintain the hand-made look?

Ian P

27/11/2019 12:14:22
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 27/11/2019 11:52:18:

Interesting question, Nigel

Are you sure that there isn’t some confusion with the traditional file ?



That looks an odd section for cutting slots in screwheads although that's what Cousins describe it as.frown

Ian P

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