Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Micro Mill|
This is my belt drive conversion.
The PolyVee is really only one of the modifications that have transformed this mill. The weight of the motor is no longer dulling the feel of the quill as I elongated the keyway in the spindle and mounted the pulley on ballraces so its more like a conventional quill. I also moved the Z axis leadscrew so it is much closer to the dovetail slide so is no longer on whet felt like a flexible mount.
This picture was take a while ago and the motor has been changes since. It currently fitted is a 4000rpm 1Kw servo motor (because I had it) which has massive torque from zero rpm up to 8000, not that I run at that speed for long.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019|
Forgive my ignorance, but what is a float lock vice?
|Thread: Fixing the AVO|
You have my admiration for rewinding a moving coil meter!
When I've examined some meter movements (probably smaller than AVO size) the whole moving assembly looks to use watch sized components like tiny jewels held in microscopic collets held together with shellac or similar. I would never have thought they were repairable.
|Thread: Meddings Pillar Drill, VFD and referb|
Can you clarify what you mean by 'connected' and 'connect' in the first sentence. (ie it worked when connected, but not when you?)
The dentist should be knowledgeable on the subject of drilling, maybe discuss (not easy when your mouth is otherwise occupied)
If you are right about the studs passing through the whole structure then I think they would have to be put in position when the bridge was built.
How on earth could a 1" or so hole be so accurately drilled (guided) over that length and end up in line with
the holes in the bracket?
Yes you are right, on closer inspection I can see the large rectangular plate on the top bolt.
If the bridge in the Google Earth picture is the same one as the one in Michael photograph then the bracket looks to have been modified or altered at some stage.
In Michael's picture there are 6 fixings to the masonry but there appears to be 8 in the second image.
|Thread: Amplifier Repairs..|
I fully concur with everything Dave said.
|Thread: Suggestions to pack round DC motor so bracket holds|
I know (knew) your answer referred to NDIY's comment but TBH his suggestion of a making a proper mount makes perfect sense to me.
From previous posts of Chriss TT I deduce that he is very particular in doing everything correctly and by the book!
I have nothing whatsoever against bushings if they are fit for purpose, although I would not describe go-cart tyres, inner tube rubber, amalgamating tape, Neoprene insertion ('insulation'?) rubber or strips of wood as being simple in the context of a holding the motor and therefore spindle of a grinding tool accurately located.
Maybe I have the wrong end of the stick and the motor being clamped carries a pulley for a belt drive so a resilient mount might be very appropriate.
If the motor has a cylindrical body and no other mounting features than presumably the manufacturer will have designed the outer casing to withstand being clamped or held so no need to take any special precautions.
Using natural resources is better for the environment.
|Thread: Wanted help with machining small ali components|
There may be dozens people here that could make your parts, one of them might live round the corner to you!
Some indication of your location and more (even vague) details of 'bespoke aluminium components' will help garner replies.
|Thread: Ho hum it's a cracker, but not in a good way!|
I have always wondered how one knows where to actually drill the holes to prevent the crack spreading?
Yes, each end of the crack, but the visible end of crack on the surface might not be the whole story as the crack may continue under the surface at an angle. A hole drilled with the best intentions might actually weaken the casting. In an ideal word (not that a crack is ideal) a hole drilled just past the end of the crack will allow the crack to continue only as far as the hole and no further.
As to the OP's top slide, I would carry on using it. As long as underside of the toolpost and the top face of the topslide is too then there should be little stress or strain on the crack.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Is the torque wrench in your link the correct one?
There is no mention of digital or electronics on the webpage, in fact there is little mention of anything that has any real meaning. If I were a potential customer for a small torque wrench the lack of a proper description or specification would eliminate that one in a flash.
|Thread: ARC Catalogue No.11|
I've only just glanced through Catalogue 11 but I like it!
Its set out well, easy to find things and obviously has been a lot of work for someone to compile and edit.
Despite what Ketan said about company policy, its infinitely better than a PDF version, but I've no doubt that in the fullness of time that's what he/we will end up with.
|Thread: Back saw for cutting steel and brass?|
Ah, that makes sense now, thanks
I think you would have to be very dedicated to make a saw from scratch!
It does not matter what its made from as long as its harder than the material its going to cut, 99.9% of saw's are made of steel and hardened in some way. Number of teeth, or the specifically the pitch, depends on the diameter of the screwhead as there should always be several teeth in engagement in the length of the cut.
Whilst the earliest makers of timepieces would have cut the slots with a saw or narrow file I bet its wasnt such a long time before they started to use slitting saws.
Do you want to cut the slots by hand to maintain the hand-made look?
That looks an odd section for cutting slots in screwheads although that's what Cousins describe it as.
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