Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: VFD to lathe motor connector|
Gene, if you mounted the VFD behind the tailstock it need not addthing to the lathe overall length, it probably would not increase the overall height either, because the motor already projects rearwards any extra rear projection of the VFD might still be within your shelf depth.
I've just looked at a picture of the MD65 and wonder whether finding a three phase motor the same size and mounting arrangement as the original might be a difficult task.
Regarding the GX20 connectors. They are absolutely, definitely, the wrong things to use anywhere near mains. In my opinion they are a rubbish connector!
Where the 'Aviation' tag came from I've no idea but they are a low quality and badly thought out product. In addition to the other faults others have pointed out, the cable grip (whilst it looks 'technical' and well engineered) only really works on a very small range of cable diameter.
My suggestion to the idea of separating the VFD and motor from each other is dont!
Why not mount the VFD close to the motor so that it just become part of the whole assembly that you lift of the shelf.?
I dont have first hand knowledge of the lathe in question but if its compact enough and light enough when complete with its motor, for you to lift it on and off a shelf, then the weight and bulk of a modern small VFD is not going to make much of a difference.
A small VFD could be mounted behind the lathe at the tailstock end or maybe in a plinth under the lathe (taking suitable swarf ingress precautions).
Eliminates a lot of wiring and connectors, what not to like./
|Thread: gauge plate|
Frank, is this something you are making to your own design or are there published drawings/details available anywhere?
We have a 15 year old granddaughter that somehow (along with all her other activities) is part of 4 different orchestras and the cost of reeds is mounting up so I want to see if I could make them.
|Thread: Metric V Imperial Measurement|
On Wednesday this week I had an X-ray scan at a local hospital where my weight and height were measured in cm and Kg, The radiographer then looked at the two conversion charts on the wall and entered in the imperial values on her paperwork!
I was somewhat surprised but she assured me that how it was always done (maybe she meant thats how she had always done it)
I bet whoever interprets the images and processes the paperwork has conversions charts at their desk to convert to metric units!
|Thread: Hello and a question to start with|
Before buying a reamer I think it would make sense to establish whether its the arbour or the socket that are causing the problem. The OP stated the socket has little sign of damage so it could be possible the arbour is manufactured badly.
Morse tapers would have to be badly scored or damaged for them not to lock together, it might be worth checking the spindle by bluing with another Morse arbour. If the existing chuck runs true anyway the simplest fix would be to use superglue (or a Loctite) to retain it.
Drill press chuck rarely need to be taken out and put back in so gluing it in place might be a good workaround. Sounds rough, but is practical.
|Thread: How to hand grind 55 degree cutter for 32TPI?|
An awful lot of interesting and useful information if all those replies, thanks to all.
Although not at the PC (or in the workshop) I've made some theoretical progress. One of the things that I had forgotten I had bought is an internal screwcutting insert holder, the best bit is that an 11NR-A60 tip is already in it! which is perfect for both the threads I need, just waiting for the 60mm tube now.
Pete Rimmer suggested 'For a fine tip like that I'd use carbide to turn some round HSS using the compound at 27.5 degrees then grind the HSS round down to half thickness then stone the radius'
That sounded very tempting but then I realised that the cutter would be very weak near the tip because there would be very little metal.
Jason's idea of relieving the bottom of the 'V' in a gauge is blindingly obvious now someone has told me.
For info, these are camera related threads and I now know the C mount is 60 degree so the same tip will do both.
The 60mm threads are 60 degrees, but the few details I can find on the C-Mount lens thread seem to say it is 55 degrees.
I will get a better magnifying glass and have a go at making a HSS tool.
Slight correction to make as I have actually have two different parts to make and I got mixed up. One is a female 1"x32TPI (C-Mount lens thread) and the other is a 60mm OD extension tube with 58x0.75mm male and female threads at the ends. My sample is made out of 1mm wall tube (although I will use 2mm wall).
I have just had a quick look for an insert but small sizes of 55 degree ones seem rather thin on the ground and I'm unclear about the what the tip radius is (or how fine a pitch it could cut).
I have internal and external holders and it looks like I could get away with just with an internal tip.
Also a thread gauge might be hard to use on a boring bar (unless the tip was highre than the rest of the tool.
My gauge does not have the clearance slit like the one in the link. Out of interest, how wide is that slot likely to be?
Edited for spelling
Edited By Ian P on 02/02/2020 21:52:57
I do have a thread angle gauge but with very small cutters the sharp tip (before it has a radius) touches the bottom of the gauge 'V' making it hard to use.
Its quite a good quality gauge but at high magnification the edge looks quite rough.
I've always ground screwcutting tips off-hand but I need to cut internal and external 32TPI (not 48 as title) threads in ali and not having a tool and cutter grinder, would like to know what others do?
With the aid of a magnifying glass, in the past I have been able to check the progress of grinding with a sample of the thread against the light. As my sample thread this time is 60mm diameter, none of the magnifiers I have are usable because the closest the lens can be is 30mm away from the point I want to examine.
|Thread: Bench grinder troubleshooting|
Of your list of repair materials I would probably use one of the epoxy ones. The heatshrink will be OK if the joint and wires are then smothered in epoxy. The woven tape in the pictures may be fabric based or glass tape but for your repair you could use any thread or twine to hold everything in place and augment it with the soaked in resin/epoxy.
I'm in the 'dont give up yet' camp. You've checked one end of the start winding (the green wire), but what about the other end?
The windings do not look overheated or burnt and you know it runs if you start it by hand but as it not really a usable machine there is not much to lose delving a bit deeper into the winding connections. If there are only three wire connections brought out then the common wire should connect to both windings. Locating and examining the common point must surely be worthwhile.
|Thread: I my goodness|
Well worth it!
Good books are not cheap and this one is good.
I had my copy quite a few years and still learn things every time I look at it.
That would be my sentiment too but surprisingly George Daniels had one in his workshop.
For anyone with any interest whatsoever in watchmaking his book is not just essential reading, but its a most valuable reference that covers many engineering processes (like making jewels from scratch).
|Thread: Opinion on using blue Loctite (thread locker) on clocks?|
Surely the problem here is the overtightening? (Which Loctite cannot prevent).
As I understand it the art or profession involved in the repair and restoration of old timepieces is one that attempts to preserve the original makers methods and materials. When materials (chemical substances) are no longer available or considered safe, then obviously substitutes or other techniques will have to be used. I'm not any sort of horologist but I doubt any sort of locking compound was ever used on screw fastenings so I don't see why one would be needed now.
Simple answer would be that Loctite is not acceptable on threads of old clocks.
I have mixed up feelings about why this particular question was put to this forum since later in the the thread you mention your 'clock forum' and that some people use it, maybe the users are making and not restoring clocks. In any event it seems to me that a forum of clockmakers would have much more clock related focus than a model engineering forum.
|Thread: Torx Grub Screws?|
Torx are not unique to being damaged by use of the wrong size size key or tool. I have even heard of hexagon nut getting rounded corners.
I would have thought the BMW dealer would be happy to take on work caused by the customer damage, after all its business.
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