Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: garden chair, wooden slats broken.|
As one of the chaps, I have to admit I knew little about how difficult it is to get hold of!
Its still an ace material for the job, but Clive will have to use something else.
As Tim said, unless you are trying to match the existing wood, definitely go for Teak.
Having too much free time at the moment I have just overhauled (tarted up) a Teak garden table that we bought in 1984 which has been out of doors ever since except for one winter. In one place the wood had rotted slightly where some steel panel pins had been used in its manufacture. All the other fixings are brass and the rest of the table had not suffered at all. I more or less dismantled the whole table, sanded the parts and then used Teak oil on all the pieces and reassembled it. It now has an as-new appearance.
Those that know will be laughing at me for oiling the table as I now have to do it annually!
Apparently Teak is naturally a particularly oily wood and does not need any treatment, if it is subsequently oiled then (I dont know the technical reason) it will need to be regularly re-treated.
|Thread: Cookerhood sound reduction|
Unless I have missed the point, what I think you need is to isolate the 'drum of a hood' from the source of vibrations (or the other way round really).
No matter how resonant or tinny the hood metalwork is, if its just sat there it cannot produce any noise by itself. I suspect that the vibrations from the motor are being mechanically coupled through the duct.
Can you interpose a flexible rubber coupling between the hood and the fan motor? You could make something out of sheet rubber or possibly an tyre inner tube. Maybe mount the motor on rubber suspension too .
|Thread: Pin in a Boxford C countershaft pulley|
PM me your address Rob and I will pop it in an envelope.
By coincidence today I came across the thrust washer for that end of the pulley. Its basically a steel washer with and the small hole is to ensure the thrust washer is locked to the ali pulley.
|Thread: What's this?|
I have one of those!
To be more accurate I have all the parts to make one that looks identical.
I have a collection of about twenty steel straps, bars and plates with a mixture threaded, clearance and slotted holes that are an adjunct to my lathe and milling machine. Used for holding work to the table, lashing up jigs and all manner of tasks.
The parts in your picture may just be how someone left then last time they were used. I cannot see it being a specific piece of equipment.
|Thread: NiMH charger|
Plus 1 for this method if your electronic device is not somethings that draws big Amps.
I have dismantled a couple of these rechargeable PP3's and installed them inside bits of test gear (a mini LCD oscilloscope and an ESR tester). Both tended to get left switched on after being used so needing a new Alkaline cell nearly every time I wanted to use them. A bit more work to mount internally compared with just putting the battery in the compartment but not having to remove it to get to the micro USB socket is much more practical.
Charging is easy with a mobile phone charger and the PP3's tiny LED let you know when its fully charged.
|Thread: Tooling for a spline|
The original (real!) Mini CV Rzzepa joints at the outer ends of the drive shafts were unusual in that the joint was an integral part of the stub axle that held the front wheel.
Your 1951 car can only have been fitted with CV jointed shafts sometime later in its life, if they are Mini outboard ones then they would be instantly recognisable so from your description definitely not originally from a Mini. Early Minis were often fitted with inboard needle roller type Hooke joints to replace the (Hardy Spicer? made) bonded rubber Hooke joints. I dont know if inboard Mini joints were ever CV type but I think its unlikely.
If you are going to machine the spline yourself I suppose it helps if you can find detailed dimensions but if not you will have to take the measurements yourself.
|Thread: Nylon sheet|
Acetal is a dream to machine (with sharp tools) and you will have more chance of achieving the accuracy you mentioned (34.93mm x 22.23mm ) than you would with Nylon. A sketch of the part you want to make would help here.
Did you mean circumference as that would be a diameter of about 6", still a heavy bit of glass though.
As regards the material requirements, probably the most cost effective route would be to machine the rectangular chunks you need from round bar. A 250mm length of 50mm diameter Acetal is about £10
Spreadsheets, trigonometry and other techniques might help in a manufacturing or production environment but are pointless for ME or home workshop purposes.
As Jason showed countersink bits are available with diameters to suit standard sizes but I found that I could only use the 10.3 and 8.3 in the set I have (Jasons has 10.4). I have acquired or made 10.0, 10.2, and 10.4 as well as an assortment of smaller sizes for M3, M2.5 and M2 fixings.
A quick check of my stock of M3 countersink screws shows head diameters between 5.04 and 5.83 (mixture of Philips, Pozi and Allen recesses). I assume they are all 90 degree types.
Trial and error in a bit of scrap (with the actual screws I am going to use) to determine the best settings still works for me. Dont forget that there are many more countersink angles in common use other than 90 degrees. (82, 100, 120 etc) so a spreadsheet would be a minefield.
Its trial and error on a bit of scrap material for me if I need to end up with a cosmetically good result.
Mostly though I uses an assortment of countersink bits that I have ground the OD to match the diameter of the screw head, that way the resulting countersunk hole is also counterbored slightly. Depth is then nowhere near as critical.
I find small differences between every batch of fixings I buy, supposedly they are to DIN standards but there still seem to be relatively big variations in the radius at the edge of the head and ones with a larger radius look awful by the time the countersink is deep enough to let the head sit flush, a counterbored/countersunk recess solves the problem.
|Thread: Nylon sheet|
I know little of telescope construction (but there are others here that do) but I don't think Nylon would be the most suitable material especially if you want to machine it to high tolerances (its hygroscopic to start with). I would thing that an Acetal like Delrin would be more stable. Cost difference is insignificant compared with what that chunk of glass must cost.
|Thread: Yuriy's Toys DIY DRO|
Iain, as far as I know Arc do not have IGaging scales, also IGaging are not magnetic types so I am curious which scales are you referring to?
What are USB headers?
|Thread: VFD just stopped working Jaguar CUB 5A-1|
'Docs quite complicated' I can cope with that. The difficult bit with this manual is trying to get inside the head of whoever wrote it.
The parameters are sensibly numbered as F01, F02, F03 etc and each one has a little paragraph, after the last one it then changes (in the manual) to E01, E02, E03 etc then C01, C02, C03, followed by a solitary 'P00'. Then the prefix is an H (up to H25) followed by some 'e' prefixed settings. Unfortunately whilst how to get into the F parameters is shown, I cannot find how the E, C,and H numbers are accessed.
Prefix letter are explained as, F is Fundamental function, E is Extension Terminal function, C is Control functions of frequency!, H is High Performance. The P0 is motor Parameter (this can be set between 0 and 9 but no explanation of what is is!)
I was hoping someone may have experience of this VFD and may be able to throw some light on its operation
Fitted it to linisher with 1/2 HP motor a couple of weeks ago and was working fine until today. Display looks normal but motor does not rotate, no error message, checked all programmed parameters and wiring and all seems fine. Reverted to keypad operation (disconnected pendant) and still not a squeak.
If there is an electronic fault I would have expected an error code, does anyone have any similar problems with the CUB
The Jaguar cub is quite a neat and compact VFD let down a bit by documentation. I have the manual but its more confusing than the supposedly bad HuanYang one!
Not related to this problem but this is the first VFD I have seen with no settings for motor parameters, when I connected it up it just worked.
|Thread: Bead LEDs and Star board/heatsink|
Is there a special reason you want to use unleaded solder?
I would just use common 60/40 by tinning both pads, putting conductive paste on the LED and hold it in place with the tip of a scriber or toothpick and touch the tip of the soldering iron onto each tab.
Solder paste is another option but its expensive if you only need a little bit as it all seems to have limited life. It may be that for amateur/hobby use the 'use by' date can be taken with a pinch of salt unless you are making something critical.
I'd not heard the term 'bead' LED before but thought you might be referring to something like this Very small LED now they would be fun! (0.65 x 0.35 x 0.2mm)
|Thread: Another mystery object.|
Grinding spindle extension is my best guess too, the only thing that makes me curious is how it is meant to accurately locate itself and run run true.
Unlike a lathe chuck there is no register associated with the 5/8" thread, there is only the remains of the 1" diameter face once the spanner flats are taken into account so the slightest burr on the face would throw the far end of the extension quite a long way off. If it is for internal grinding then presumably it would be rotating at high rpm so concentricity and balance are really important.
The extremely fine pitch and the very close fitting thread of the collet nut point to it being a precision made item but its at odds with the mounting thread.
|Thread: Aging rubber and plastic|
I doubt there is any way of restoring or stabilising this material and the only option is to remove it completely.
In my opinion there are not many products that this soft covering actually improves (in terms of making it a better product) it might make something look more attractive but (especially) in the workshop soft coated handles on tools just pick up dirt.
|Thread: Repairing a Mitutoyo DRO|
Brian, I like many others on this forum would be very happy to help you get your DRO working, as you say its a long time that it has been out of commission but after just skimming back through the two threads I find that no matter how carefully I try and interpret the results of your investigation, I am still unsure (from your vague terminology) what the situation is!
I am not trying to be disrespectful or argumentative but in order to remotely diagnose where the problem lies a clear and logical approach is essential. Even the description in your last reply conveys nothing that helps, 'neither scale produces a reading' does not say whether the display is even lit up.
I've not looked to see if you give your location but current lockdown rules out physical help but I would be quite happy to assist using Skype/Whatsapp video (PM me for numbers).
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