Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Installing a magnetic DRO on my VM32L|
I will take a picture so I can post a sketch of what I was suggesting (probably in the morning).
I am not familiar with your machine but if I interpret what I see in the pictures I think their installation has the Y axis strip on the stationary base of the mill, and the sensor head as the moving part. Since the cable does not look particularly robust I would reverse the tape and sensor positions.
Their X axis sensor and cable also look to be vulnerable. There is no need to have the sensor dead in the middle, moving nearer to one end might allow much better routing of the cable.
Drilling and tapping holes in a machine (brand new or old ) would never bother me but I know some people are reluctant (to even paranoid) about making any modifications to a machine, In this case, unless you want to glue everything together, some holes are inevitable.
I'm sure you will make a better job of it than the factory have done!
There appears to be bits of old magnets used as temporary clamps holding the self adhesive(? ) strips in place, I also see the wonky looking sensor on the Y axis (has the casting a machined surface where the strip is located?). If the surface is not machined then there is a good case for fitting the strip in some extrusion. I think I would use some ali 'U' section (with the U upside down) so that the magnetic strip faces downward and the bulk of the sensor head is within the U, as in under an umbella.
Whilst the strip and sensors are probably coolant proof, oil and coolant could migrate its way into the adhesive allowing the strip to detach eventually.
Mine was the same, the extrusion. magnetic strip and the SS cover strip were all supplied loose. I did fit it all as the thickness of the extrusion only added 10mm to the tailstock side of the crosslide. (Harrison M250) If I had to do it again I would investigate gluing the bare magnetic strip under the cross slide.
The sensor head and its cable (of the Amadeal kit) looks to be a bit vulnerable, I'm not a fan of the spiral metal conduit but its more robust than what is shown in the top pictures, Maybe I'm doing it a misjustice if it has a tough polyurethane jacket.
Out of interest, how much did that kit cost?
|Thread: Change to the Code of Conduct|
I second that.
|Thread: Another mystery tool|
I wonder if the reason for two dials is so that it can be seen by two persons at the same time. We don't how big this thing is but I'm guessing about 8" long, because its hand held one would expect that a single dial version could be used in two positions saving the expense of a second dial.
Another oddity are the four 'feet', if its for checking the level between two surfaces or rails it would only need feet on the bottom, also if it was going to be used on rails then presumably it would have some lateral guides to cater for the crowned surface.
Is the height between the top and bottom feet significant. Maybe this thing is used with the plunger at the top sat between the ram and a platen of a hydraulic press.
More dimensions would be good, its not clear how this thing is assembled but there might be some clue if there is any writing on the dial mechanism. All in all though its an intriguing mystery
Is mention of 'needles' above relevant? i.e. are there indicator dials on the front and back of this tool or just the one?
The scale markings are a bit odd too in that it has four quadrants.
Is there some zero setting adjustment that does not show in the pictures, also what is the total travel of the plunder?
Still not got a clue what its purpose was
|Thread: Wot's this for ? help please|
I think products like this one a mainly 'designed' with saleability as the first priority, performance and longevity are further down the list.
I doubt the bearings are anything special.
I bought a 'Dremel' type power tool that looked quite good in the pictures. It has a cylindrical aluminium body and is fitted with a 1/4" Jacobs type chuck, it also has a supplied 24VDC power supply with speed control all came in a nice moulded carrying case. Now its arrived I find it near useless, It has a brushed motor bonded (I think) into the ali tube outer case and the chuck is bushed in some way so that it fits the 3mm motor spindle (not removable). It has the about 3mm axial freedom in the motors plain bearings and obviously no provision made for thrust.
Yes, it a hand power tool and it was not expensive but not one I would recommend
|Thread: Mild Steel Rod in Metric Sizes|
Curious to know why the usual ME suppliers are in a time warp? (I think you are right, but then some aspects of the ME world are in the same time warp anyway)
If its the lack of materials in metric sizes its probably because ME's (as against home workshop engineers) are themselves mostly working in imperial sizes because that is what is on the most of the drawings. If most customers want to purchase imperial sized stock then that is what the suppliers will hold stock.
My go-to supplier is Noggin End (not too far from me so I can collect), their website shows steel in imperial sizes but I'm sure they have some sizes in metric too.
|Thread: Does anyone view this forum by first selecting a 'topic'?|
Brian G said,
"Getting back on topic, I can honestly say I have never gone to a topic and looked through the threads, instead using latest posts when I want to see what is happening, and the search facility when I want to find something out."
I'm exactly the same and only ever use 'topics' when I start a new thread.
I dont know if the following behavior is normal or whether its a setting or cookie on my PC,
If I view a thread that is still on the latests posts page but has garnered a lot more replies and maybe moved on to another page, I get taken to the end (or last page) of that thread rather than to the first unread reply. I seem to remember this forum used to take me to the point in a thread where I had read upto. I cleared the brower cache and cookies but that has not made any difference. Does the forum know what I have or have not read?
Its not such a hardship to see posts that have dropped of the top page, it only a matter of clicking 'next' at the top of the list.
My actual method of using the forum is to open each and all of the latest posts in a new tab (well the posts I know I want to read plus any new ones). I can then read them in whatever order suits me. Very fortunately the text on each tab is the title of that posting (it wasn't always so on this forum, YCAMHIKT)
Jason, the post that Neil moved and which triggered my question was the one about 3 Phase in a ME workshop. Its certainly had more responses since it moved (but whether that is because it was moved or just chance I have no opinion).
Was your rivet squeezer change of title a typo on your part?
Changing Rivit to Rivit squeezer etc wont help anyone searching for rivet!
Edit (using the fairly dumb site search feature)
Edited By Ian P on 13/06/2020 10:29:21
I agree it doesn't matter where the post actually is, that was the point I was making.
I just wondered whether anyone actually searches or views by topic. I have not used it but my impression is that the forum search is not one of its best features so if one was searching for say, 'Myford ML7 Saddle lock' the chances of a good result are minimal. Searching the forum site with plain old Google is more likely to find something without caring which topic it was posted in.
In a current thread Neil moved the OP's thread to another topic saying that it might garner more replies (or whatever). I surmise that only forum members that search or view by choosing that particular topic would then see that thread.
I'm sure I cannot be the only person to start in latest posts, OTOTH I wonder if I'm missing something?
|Thread: LED strips|
Might be a clue to the arrangement in the number '24S4P' printed on the strip. Maybe 4 parallel strings of 24 LEDs
I'm not familiar with these long arrays in tubes but there will be some current limiting device involved possibly a capacitor
You should be able to determine how the LEDs are wired by looking at the copper track (outline visible under the paint layer). I would imagine that they are basically wired in series as each LED will have roughly 3 volts across it.
Why did you decide it was junk?
|Thread: Hermes Parcels|
A bit off topic but, in December last year I ordered a pair of side cutters (came with two spudgers as a free gift) from Aliexpress. Parcel was delivered by RM Tracked 48 last week. I had long forgotten my order although had received several emails (in an account I rarely check) although one day after the parcel arrived I had an email to my main account saying the order was cancelled!
Side cutters are fine and were cheap.
I have always been happy with Hermes. One thing I do know is that every courier company bar none, will sooner or later will have a problem with some shipment. I suppose the only real difference between them in that case is how well thy deal with it.
|Thread: DIY magnetic DRO|
That is quite an impressive project!
|Thread: Arduino /C++ Questions...|
I know Neil's request is for assistance with the software, but something in his post puzzles me.
Its the rubber rollers and unknown gearing ratio.
I'm presuming that the software will be progressively tweaked by trial & error once the mount is is mechanically assembled and running. If the characteristics of the rubber components are going to determine the drive ratio then I suppose they could change over time so requiring ongoing software tweaking.
If there was no rubber in the drive and the ratio was known would the software problem go away?
|Thread: Good way of attaching instructions to a painted surface|
I suggest trapping the printed label using a length of the heatshrink tubing commonly used to encapsulate cells to make up battery packs.
It is thin walled, has a high shrink ratio and is available in several colours and in pre-shrunk diameters up to about 150mm, (clear is one of the colours)
If you search for battery, pack, heat, shrink you will find lots of sellers
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