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Member postings for Ian P

Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: countersinking
29/04/2020 12:06:24

Spreadsheets, trigonometry and other techniques might help in a manufacturing or production environment but are pointless for ME or home workshop purposes.

As Jason showed countersink bits are available with diameters to suit standard sizes but I found that I could only use the 10.3 and 8.3 in the set I have (Jasons has 10.4). I have acquired or made 10.0, 10.2, and 10.4 as well as an assortment of smaller sizes for M3, M2.5 and M2 fixings.

A quick check of my stock of M3 countersink screws shows head diameters between 5.04 and 5.83 (mixture of Philips, Pozi and Allen recesses). I assume they are all 90 degree types.

Trial and error in a bit of scrap (with the actual screws I am going to use) to determine the best settings still works for me. Dont forget that there are many more countersink angles in common use other than 90 degrees. (82, 100, 120 etc) so a spreadsheet would be a minefield.

Ian P

28/04/2020 22:35:57

Its trial and error on a bit of scrap material for me if I need to end up with a cosmetically good result.

Mostly though I uses an assortment of countersink bits that I have ground the OD to match the diameter of the screw head, that way the resulting countersunk hole is also counterbored slightly. Depth is then nowhere near as critical.

I find small differences between every batch of fixings I buy, supposedly they are to DIN standards but there still seem to be relatively big variations in the radius at the edge of the head and ones with a larger radius look awful by the time the countersink is deep enough to let the head sit flush, a counterbored/countersunk recess solves the problem.

Ian P

Thread: Nylon sheet
28/04/2020 22:11:57

I know little of telescope construction (but there are others here that do) but I don't think Nylon would be the most suitable material especially if you want to machine it to high tolerances (its hygroscopic to start with). I would thing that an Acetal like Delrin would be more stable. Cost difference is insignificant compared with what that chunk of glass must cost.

Ian P

Thread: Yuriy's Toys DIY DRO
26/04/2020 20:45:48

Iain, as far as I know Arc do not have IGaging scales, also IGaging are not magnetic types so I am curious which scales are you referring to?

What are USB headers?

Ian P

Thread: VFD just stopped working Jaguar CUB 5A-1
25/04/2020 22:01:26

'Docs quite complicated' I can cope with that. The difficult bit with this manual is trying to get inside the head of whoever wrote it.

The parameters are sensibly numbered as F01, F02, F03 etc and each one has a little paragraph, after the last one it then changes (in the manual) to E01, E02, E03 etc then C01, C02, C03, followed by a solitary 'P00'. Then the prefix is an H (up to H25) followed by some 'e' prefixed settings. Unfortunately whilst how to get into the F parameters is shown, I cannot find how the E, C,and H numbers are accessed.

Prefix letter are explained as, F is Fundamental function, E is Extension Terminal function, C is Control functions of frequency!, H is High Performance. The P0 is motor Parameter (this can be set between 0 and 9 but no explanation of what is is!)

I was hoping someone may have experience of this VFD and may be able to throw some light on its operation

Ian P

25/04/2020 20:42:05

Fitted it to linisher with 1/2 HP motor a couple of weeks ago and was working fine until today. Display looks normal but motor does not rotate, no error message, checked all programmed parameters and wiring and all seems fine. Reverted to keypad operation (disconnected pendant) and still not a squeak.

If there is an electronic fault I would have expected an error code, does anyone have any similar problems with the CUB

The Jaguar cub is quite a neat and compact VFD let down a bit by documentation. I have the manual but its more confusing than the supposedly bad HuanYang one!

Not related to this problem but this is the first VFD I have seen with no settings for motor parameters, when I connected it up it just worked.

Ian P

Thread: Bead LEDs and Star board/heatsink
22/04/2020 20:04:37

Is there a special reason you want to use unleaded solder?

I would just use common 60/40 by tinning both pads, putting conductive paste on the LED and hold it in place with the tip of a scriber or toothpick and touch the tip of the soldering iron onto each tab.

Solder paste is another option but its expensive if you only need a little bit as it all seems to have limited life. It may be that for amateur/hobby use the 'use by' date can be taken with a pinch of salt unless you are making something critical.

I'd not heard the term 'bead' LED before but thought you might be referring to something like this Very small LED now they would be fun! (0.65 x 0.35 x 0.2mm)

Ian P

Thread: Another mystery object.
19/04/2020 19:41:09

Grinding spindle extension is my best guess too, the only thing that makes me curious is how it is meant to accurately locate itself and run run true.

Unlike a lathe chuck there is no register associated with the 5/8" thread, there is only the remains of the 1" diameter face once the spanner flats are taken into account so the slightest burr on the face would throw the far end of the extension quite a long way off. If it is for internal grinding then presumably it would be rotating at high rpm so concentricity and balance are really important.

The extremely fine pitch and the very close fitting thread of the collet nut point to it being a precision made item but its at odds with the mounting thread.

Ian P

Thread: Aging rubber and plastic
18/04/2020 12:58:27
Posted by old mart on 17/04/2020 20:35:16:

I got my oldish P...

Is there anything that can be done when the rubber or plastic starts breaking down?

I doubt there is any way of restoring or stabilising this material and the only option is to remove it completely.

In my opinion there are not many products that this soft covering actually improves (in terms of making it a better product) it might make something look more attractive but (especially) in the workshop soft coated handles on tools just pick up dirt.

Ian P

Thread: Repairing a Mitutoyo DRO
17/04/2020 21:10:29

Brian, I like many others on this forum would be very happy to help you get your DRO working, as you say its a long time that it has been out of commission but after just skimming back through the two threads I find that no matter how carefully I try and interpret the results of your investigation, I am still unsure (from your vague terminology) what the situation is!

I am not trying to be disrespectful or argumentative but in order to remotely diagnose where the problem lies a clear and logical approach is essential. Even the description in your last reply conveys nothing that helps, 'neither scale produces a reading' does not say whether the display is even lit up.

I've not looked to see if you give your location but current lockdown rules out physical help but I would be quite happy to assist using Skype/Whatsapp video (PM me for numbers).

Ian P

16/04/2020 20:58:03

By 'Lights' do you mean lamps?

If these are incandescent lamps (like torch bulbs) then I would expect them to emit visible radiation, on the other hand if by light you mean LED's then more than likely they would emit infra red and the 'receivers' (photo detectors) would be sensitive to that part of the spectrum, so not visible. One easy way though of checking if IR LED's are working is to view them through a smartphone camera when they would show up as a bright dot.

I am not familiar with Mitutoyo scales but even if you determine that the light source is not working, unless you have reasonable knowledge of electronics its not going to help you find the actual fault.

I have not re-read this whole thread again prior to this reply but is it now clearly established that the whole system works, except for one of the scales?

Ian P

 

Edit, I see Old Mart too, does not know what area the fault is in

 

 

 

Edited By Ian P on 16/04/2020 21:00:08

Thread: Another mystery object.
15/04/2020 22:06:27

This item was in a box of oddments that came with a pantograph engraver I bought many years ago, I have never really worked out what its original purpose was, its obviously not engraving related and seems to be some sort of spindle extension.

The coarse thread is 5/8" OD, 11 tpi and the large end shaft is 1" diameter. The other end appears to be made to accept a collet as it has a taper bore (16mm at mouth down to 9.53mm over 17.5mm) and the closing nut has a 45 degree internal taper, the thread about 20.5mm dia is 40 TPI which seems to indicate it was chosen to ensure best accuracy/concentricity when closing the collet. If this was some sort of extension spindle, say for a toolpost grinder then the lack of a precision register at the coarse thread end does not make sense.

The spindle is drilled through and has a removable/adjustable backstop. Its about 11" long overall

Anyone know what this might be off?

Ian P

20200415_191728.jpg

Thread: Motor for Chester Champion Mill
13/04/2020 20:45:23

Now I know I'm thick!

I got fixated on the mirror image bit and just did not think there might be another way.

Reminds me of a PCB I designed a long time ago, It was pretty simple and laid out with tape, there was no silkscreen or text but I wanted to put a number or identifier to make the track side obvious. I chose 'K47' because there were no curves involved and the numerals only read one way.

Ian P

13/04/2020 19:01:21

Did you realise you were replying to a thread that has been dormant for seven years Tim?

I came across the thread last night and something odd in one of the pictures made me curious, I assumed the original problem has been solved long ago and whilst I thought of copy/pasting the picture into a new thread it would probably still have needed a link to this old thread to put in context.

Any idea why part of the picture is mirror imaged?

Ian P

12/04/2020 22:02:47
Posted by John Coates on 28/03/2013 12:25:31:

Andrew

Mine is a Chester Champion from the 90's with the round column, tilting head and reverse switch with a 1/2 HP motor like this one - is yours the same?

Chester Champion mill.jpg

I converted mine to 3-phase and have been very happy. When I get home after work I will check to see if I have the original single phase motor as I am pretty sure I put it away in a box.

My first 3-phase conversion used the original cone pulley but I cross threaded the 5mm allen bolt in the end under power and buggered it up. So my next conversion used the keyway slot to secure a single pulley and discarded the cone pulley.

John

Edited By John Coates on 28/03/2013 12:31:12

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I have the white version of this Champion mill and I am filling up some time by putting it to first use. I bought it incomplete ex showroom at a Chester Engineering open day about ten years ago and it still has its coating of Chinese grease. The motor and some of the handwheels are missing so getting it operational should be fairly straightforward.

What I am curious about though is the 'CE' marking in Johns machine (mine has no such label) but the characters in the picture are mirror imaged, but the machine itself isn't!

Maybe this was a dodge to circumvent copyright (before 'China Export' became the explanation for CE)

Ian P

Thread: How can I use this motor economically?
05/04/2020 20:34:59

I have 'parked' the servo motors and drive for the time being and am fitting a standard motor and VFD to the linisher. There are no Hall sensors in this motor particular motor, The picture is the inside of the motor terminal box and the only wires exiting the motor itself are the three thick wires plus two white ones (probably the thermal sensor).

The manual linked to is a shorter version of the one I have but is essentially correct.

Ian P

04/04/2020 22:44:48

Thanks Robert, I'm not sure if this motor has integral Hall sensors but even if it did there is quite a lot of work (and some expense) to get it running. Even then it would be a fairly dumb system compared to what features even a cheap VFD has (accel/decel etc etc) so. Since I have three of the motors and two drives (one faulty) putting them on eBay is what I think I will do.

I thought it might be best to wait until things get nearer to normal but I've just looked at eBay help pages and surprisingly they say its mostly business as usual.

04/04/2020 20:54:16

Thanks for the info and suggestions, I know in my heart that making use of this type of motor without a suitable servo drive is not possible and its unrealistic of me to expect to find an economic way of doing it.

As mentioned the 'personality' and the configuration of the drive is stored in a eeprom so no battery involved, why this became corrupted just by unplugging and reconnecting to the mains is a mystery as its something I have done frequently. Using it to drive a linisher is almost a criminal waste of technology but the motor and drive were lying around spare when the original grotty induction motor burnt out. I have the customer version of the Windows 'BRU Master' software which allows configuring all the drive parameters but when I connect it to the drive it communicates but then reports the corrupted NV memory (as does the drives own error number).

I do have a second drive unit and motor which are currently working and fitted to a X1 size mill, I very rarely use it so could borrow the drive off that but as suggested it would probably make more sense to fit an induction motor with VFD and then sell the servo motors and drives I have (used kit seems to fetch high prices especially in the USA).

Joe's comments and recollections about the motor only running synchronously make it totally unsuitable as a machine power source, I could imagine with determination it would be possible to incorporate a feedback system and then drive with a VFD buts it not something I could tackle.

Just to mention as an item of interest. I control the motor speed and direction using the drive's analogue input (+/-10V) with a pot and toggle switch. Even at 4000rpm clicking the switch between forward/reverse is utterly drama free with the motor changing direction almost imperceptibly. If I had the expertise then using one of these as a direct drive lathe spindle motor would be ideal for ELS purposes.

Ian P

03/04/2020 21:25:34

I have been using this motor and its drive unit for several years in my linisher. Last week I unplugged it from the mains whilst I was having a tidy up and now it does not work. I have the full Electro-Craft manual for the drive and motor and the fault error number the drive shows is one that can only be repaired by board replacement followed by reconfiguring using software only given to authorised repair houses, in other words very expensive!

As I do not need any of the servo functions but if possible would like to use it as a plain (hopefully variable speed) motor. I wondered whether it could be driven by a VFD, its rating plate describes it as an 'AC Motor' although it contains magnets on the rotor so its not a conventional induction motor.

If it means anything to anyone here the motor is an 'H-4030-M-H-00AA'. Its continuously rated at 1.1KW 240V and runs up to 4000rpm. There are only 3 wires to the motor itself (plus another 20 or so to the shaft encoder)

There are companies that supply refurbished drives (mostly in the USA) but at about $2000 not the route I want to take.

Anybody know how else I could drive the this (and another two similar ones I have) motor?

Ian P

20200403_171209.jpg

Thread: New design of mains plug?
02/04/2020 12:07:12
Posted by ega on 02/04/2020 11:43:51:
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 01/04/2020 20:54:20:

Quality plugs come with a card showing how long to cut each wire, so that if the cable pulls out live comes free first and earth is disconnected last.

...

How does this requirement apply to the modern moulded on plugs?

They are neat but often have the wrong length of lead.

Two points, The relationships of the individual wire lengths are not a 'requirement', they may be a recommendation.

When you say wrong length of lead then if too long it can be shortened, if its too short buy another longer onesmiley

Ian P

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