Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: good service Arc eurotrade|
I agree that Arc give an excellent service. Like FF one of the items in my order came the wrong size, one phone call and the correct part arrived the next day and I was told to keep the (admittedly low value part) rather then return it.
I cannot speak of the furnishing, fashion, food etc trades, but nowadays in the electronics and engineering fields next day delivery is more or less standard. One company I purchase electronic and mechanical components from are in Warsaw, if I place an order before half past two the goods arrive by courier next day, (usually in the morning because that is when the drivers round is in my area). For that service they charge less then £6 In the last two years only one shipment took two days because of flight delay.
|Thread: Cleaning a new lathe before using...|
Its not that long ago since Arc Eurotrade offered a pre delivery service on the machines they sold. I seem to recall it involved stripping the machine down, cleaning, adjusting and generally giving the whole machine the once over.
I dont have experience of any recent oriental machines but my preference would be to go the whole hog and strip it down to clean everything.
Apart from you getting a better knowledge of the machine you will have the opportunity to deburr sharp edges and generally make tiny improvements to the fit and finish of parts.
|Thread: Advice for a mini milling machine|
I dont want to be too pedantic or open another can of worms, but 'accurate to 0.01mm' or 'work to 0.01mm' does not really define accuracy.
I work to 0.01mm all the time, because the DRO and digital calipers I use have that on the scale! I know and accept that that my finished parts will probably only be within 0.02 or 0.03mm of what I would like them to be. Most important thing is that the parts fit each other.
Is the 0.01mm Alex quotes meant to be a tolerance?
There is a big difference between a pivot being 0.25mm diameter +/-0.01 and say, the distance between holes on a plate that have to be 25mm apart to +/-0.01mm. Apart from any difficulty actually making the parts, how are the dimensions going to be checked afterwards anyway.
|Thread: What lathes have you had?|
I saved pocket money and bought a (round bed) Wade (with no tailstock) just after I left school late 50s. I powered it using my mums sewing machine treadle, I never made anything of real use with it and a neighbour I loaned it to never returned it.
I bought a new Emco SL in the 60s which in spite of being flimsy produced good work and lasted me until I acquired a Raglan Little John in the 80s. I rebuilt it but had to sell it due to a house move problem and ended up latheless for several years.
I then bought a Boxford AUD with VFD etc. I sold it about three years ago because for one job I needed to turn 11" rather than the Boxford 10" and bought a well kitted Harrison M250.
The Harrison is good but I miss the AUD, the Boxford punches well above its weight and is a really versatile machine.
|Thread: Cast iron - 160mm dia|
More like 10p each when I bought a few studs (that look like rivets) at the 'Jet Age' museum in Gloucester. Ostensibly they were from the TSR2 project.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Andrew, what is the material or method you used to hold the spikes whilst you were slotting them, and were they hand-held?
Nothing appears to be clamped down.
|Thread: In need of a steel ring 132mm dia|
I beg to differ. If you had explained you were looking for why were so many of the people that tried to help having to make assumptions and guesses.
My comment, which was only slightly sarcastic and hardly underhand, could have been worded better. It was not your original post I was referring to, but to the fact that when you said it was sorted, did not explain then.
I think it would have been nice if the OP (who says its all sorted now) had pressed a few more keys on his keyboard and explained what he wanted in the first place.
|Thread: Thread Bare|
Going back to the original post asking about an easy fix, the answer is dependent on what Garry considers easy, but more importantly, what is the actual purpose of these holes and studding.
If its not essential to have long lengths of stud projecting out of the holes than why not just use screws or bolts with the finer thread, not as much available as in metric coarse but still enough around to chose from.
From the picture the lathe looks to be a woodworking lathe so its unlikely to be ideal to make studding. Is the 6mm diameter a limit, I wonder whether the holes be rethreaded to M8 (or M7) and larger studs used, alternatively it would also be possible to make inserts with M6 internal thread and a larger external thread, say M8.
|Thread: Mounting an ER collet chuck|
How would one find out which is the concentric register?
I can only see one feature in the picture that I would call the register and its the large diameter surrounded by the bolting face. The spigot on the backplate should be a tight fit to that recess and the spigot 'length' less than the depth so that face to face contact is on the bolting face.
Since Richard is mounting this on a backplate I dont see why the permissible error would re occur
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Pumps intended for oil are usually lubricated by the oil itself. Types using two meshed gears and the ones with multi-lobed rotors have very close clearances and would not last long in water.
Its usually possible to determine what type of pump you have jsut by looking at the casing shape and position of the inlet and outlet ports.
|Thread: Need to drill a hole digital caliper|
Whilst the Chinese caliper steel is hard and is stainless it can definitely be drilled with HSS bits.
I have converted several (different makes) of calipers to simple DRO's using normal hacksaw blades and drill bits and not encountered any problems. The important thing is to have a rigid setup so you can apply lots of pressure to the drill and keep it cutting. It will work harden if the drill spins, so best to run at a low (lowest) speed so you can see what's happening and have some feel.
If you get part way through and it work hardens I find the best way to overcome it, is to change drills (or slightly regrind the same one) so that the very slightly different cutting edge profile cuts in a slightly different position. Most holes I have drilled were 3mm and 4mm, smaller is possible but its harder to put a lot of pressure on say a 2mm bit.
Drills, hacksaws and files do cut this stuff as long as long as pressure is applied and not allowed to skid.
Edited By Ian P on 07/06/2019 14:24:27
|Thread: Connecting a pair of motor controllers.|
Ron, I have quickly read through this whole thread and unless I missed it did not learn what the project is and why it needs two motors linked together?
Are they driving a common load, so coupled together mechanically?
If motor reversing and braking are involved then things are definitely more complicated than just gearing two potentiometers together,
Most of the replies so far have concentrated (quite correctly) on Ron's original query about coupling two controllers electronically. I wonder though what why or what the two motors are driving and whether they have to run at identical speed or whether they have to be fully synchronised.
If two controllers are being used to drive plain DC motors driving separate wheels on the same vehicle then using one potentiometer to control both obviously makes sense. How the two speed control inputs are linked can only really be determined when one has full knowledge of the speed controller circuitry. Many controllers use a potentiometer to derive a variable analogue voltage (often 0-5V or 0-10V) to feed the speed input of the controller. Whilst one potentiometer (wiper) could easily be connected to two separate controllers there are some possible pitfalls.
One wiper to two inputs is fine, the two grounds (or 0V) must to be tied together as well which is fine, however if the two controllers are fed from a single power source careful attention may be needed to prevent duplicated ground connections introducing extraneous signals because of any voltage drops in any high current wiring.
One slightly confusing point is that Ron mentions 'switching the pot off' giving some braking action. Potentiometers are not themselves devices than can be switched off so presumably he is referring to a combined pot/switch. Knowledge of the controller circuit then become essential if one is to advise on connecting them in tandem.
|Thread: How does this collet work?|
You've got better eyesight than me, or maybe used a microscope!
I will examine it tomorrow to see why I missed it.
No writing on this one, but it slips on an 8.5mm drill shank perfectly.
|Thread: soldering brass|
Usual method is to use two or more solders with different melting temperatures, (use the higher temp one first)
|Thread: Lathe improvements?|
There is a 'Contact Seller' link on his listings and as long as you are not trying to deal outside eBay you can ask anything.
In any event there are lots of other sources of ready made gears and pulleys.
|Thread: Oh Dear, I've blown the chop saw...|
If the fuse blows immediately then something is shorted, it could possibly be the capacitor.
Without a reference scale of 'mucky' its hard to say for sure that the armature is toast, the commutator start off as bright copper but sometimes the area that the brushes wipe gets glazed and polished to a much darker tone.
A photo of the electrical bits switch, capacitor and the brush/commutator end) would help.
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