Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Boxford metric lead screw fitted to imperial lathe?|
I'm not sure what bed length the lathe was but whilst I no longer have the lathe I do still have the leadscrew which I am sure is imperial. Whereabouts are you located.
I no longer have a Boxford lathe but the 5" metric AUD with gearbox I am sure was able to cut metric and imperial threads without swapping any changewheels (or maybe my memory is playing tricks)
|Thread: Turning a recess in the end of a bar|
As others have said, start with a drilled hole (about 6mm to the correct depth) I would then switch to an endmill held in the toolpost that is used in the same manner as a boring bar. The endmill can have 2 or more flutes so just line up one flute on the centerline. Even if the endmill is not a centre cutting one, up to about 10 or 12mm diameter it will plunge into the drilled hole and then just wind out the crosslide to the bore needed.
Without knowing the intended purpose of the recess all you can do is make the part to the specification given, but it may be that it would not matter if there was a pip or the remnants of the drilled hole still present at the bottom of the recess.
|Thread: Boring bar|
I have the identical Komet bar (8mm OD) which I bought with ten inserts in 1980something. The original Komet inserts have long since gone and whilst I have fitted other makes none have ever performed as well as the originals and the bar now just sits in a drawer.
I cannot remember the part number for the tiny triangular tips I found, Jenny at JB tooling gave me one as a sample to try so it might be worth contacting her.
|Thread: Unimat 3 dividing head|
None of the sellers pictures showed that the disks had holes (other than at the zero position?) and I'm always wary of sellers not fully describing items so I thought this Emco product relied on the users eysight. In reality having anodised labels is a good feature.
I suppose that if there are no holes or other detents in the plates shown then one would have to describe this amazing Emco product as an 'Optical dividing head'.
The seller seems averse to showing what the body looks like but it looks to have a very short spindle
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Document was created in 2014 by 'Woody', could that be Alan Wood?
|Thread: Limiting pressure to a gauge|
Where does the 'relieved' oil or pressure go?
If originality is not important an easy solution it to fit a higher pressure gauge. True, it will not allow accurate interpretation of low pressure values but mostly with engines its not the actual pressure of the oil that is important, its the presence of pressure that matters.
There are probably pressure limiting valves (some vehicle rear brakes were so equipped to stop wheels locking up) but whether anything ready made exists for your application I have no idea.
If the high pressure is only present for a very short period then a restrictor close to the source of the pressure would act as a snubber and the pressure 'event' would be over before the gauge had time to respond and suffer damage.
|Thread: Toolpost drill mill attachment|
Since this is a low powered tool (motor power is the limiting factor) I was going to suggest using flat pulleys and using the back of the existing belt as a flat belt. Possibly though the teeth on the outer face might still impart some vibration effects that would effect grinding.
However rather than reverse a toothed belt, better would be a reversed polyvee because the full power transmission capabilities of the multi 'V's not really be required for this tool.
|Thread: Would you buy one of these collets?|
I dont have or use R8, but this one looks the same as the one Arc have so what is oversized about it?
|Thread: Is this chuck mounted on a 5C collet?|
I think I came across the RC arbors but they are about twice the price of Ketan's but both suppliers do not have anything smaller than ones with 80mm flanges.
Not sure where their flying wheels come into it.
Thanks for the heads up, I am actually quite local to John but never met him and at the time he was selling up (due to illness I think) I was too short of time to visit or buy anything. I will try a DM.
I'm butting in here really, but I have two 3 jaw chucks sitting idle that I want to mount on 5c arbors, one is a Burnerd/Myford nose threaded Tru-grip and the other is an ungeared lightweight one with about a 25mm mandrel thread.
I've searched till I'm blue but there seems to be a dearth of 5c blank arbours, I'm quite happy to machine one to suit the chuck thread but the only ones Arc stock are for chucks that take backplates so it seems rather wasteful to use those.
Does anyone know where blank arbors are available?
|Thread: What is the way to put these holes in the right place?|
Yes, (I mean to the method you describe) which is basically what I was doing, my query arose because two of the edges are not the usual square cornered type and measuring or referencing against them is less straightforward as one of the edges is 'blunt' and the other whilst 'sharp' might have a burr that makes determining the vertex of the two faces difficult.
Easily sorted with JBBs
|Thread: Fusion 360 Licence Changes|
I am not using Fusion (I want to, but need more memory and better graphics) but for your dual login problem cannot you use 'Remote Desktop'. Its not something I have done but have of a friend that seamlessly uses his PCB CAD machine from his lounge couch.
|Thread: Resistance Soldering question|
I've loosely followed this thread and just had a quick skim through but I'm still a bits confused (not an unusual state for me) about the joining methods involved.
I think whatever is used to (very securely) attach a small component to a larger one it will be a challenge to do so without marring some surface in one way or another.
Welding where the two metals are not the same really complicates matters but there are methods of welding that take place so quickly that the heat hardly escapes the joint surfaces (spot welding and in particular stud welding) can often be performed with hardly any external marks.
Soldering which involves using a 'solder' requires heat to melt the solder. Heating can be done by a myriad of methods one of them being the 'resistance soldering' discussed here.
What I am not sure of is where the resistor part of the process is and what bit actually gets to do the heating.
Is it the poor conductivity of the metals being joined (like in spot welding) or is it from the tip of a carbon electrode in contact with (one half of) the joint?
|Thread: Warco WM18 milling head shake ( technically spindle is precessing) when plunge milling a blind slot.|
A starter hole is the best way to go but if I'm in a hurry or cannot be bothered to change the cutter from say a standard endmill or a non centre cutting slot drill, I just move the job from side to side a short distance whilst feeding the cutter down with the quill. I rarely use the cutter the same diameter as the finished slot so then clean up the slot to width once the bulk of material is removed.
Plunging any flat bottomed-ish cutter into a flat surface is always going to be challenging unless the machine is ultra rigid.
|Thread: Triangular Screws|
If the box is Hammond or of USA origin its most likely a UNC thread
|Thread: Help with a boxford c|
Ian, is this query about the spindle drive belt? if so the only way to replace it with a normal V belt is to remove the headstock spindle.
|Thread: What is the way to put these holes in the right place?|
Your latest design incorporates some of the things I was thinking of, however putting them all in one block reduces sales and potential profit, far better to market a set of JBB's
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