Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Softening/Hardening/Tempering 30 thou feeler gauge|
I have used diamond burrs to make holes in shim stock.
I bought a cheap set of burrs (about two dozen of all shapes and sizes) that have 1/*2 diameter shanks, I usually start the hole with a ball shaped one and then change to conical. Square or other shaped holes are possible too.
|Thread: Tapered Square metal punch anyone?|
That video shows how to make and use a broach but Chris's question was about a tapered punch (whatever that is).
I followed the thread hoping he would clarify his requirement.
|Thread: Coping with voltage spikes|
Five pages so far and we seem to be no nearer a solution, I dont think we even know what colour the car is.
Tim said four LEDs had failed but one LED survived after seeing 6 volts, presumably not one of the four.
If I understand what Tim said, one of the none working LEDs had no faults in its wires and resistor but then gave light output when the LED was connected directly to a supply, but it failed after a while?
The plot thickens.
In your original post you said you had added a '12 Volt LED'.
The 3mm LED you mentioned does not sound like one that incorporates its own limiting resistor or constant current circuit, so have you fitted a limiting resistor externally?
|Thread: Can a small lathe handle a tail stock die holder?|
I think you have answered your own question!
If cutting the thread by hand is hard, cutting it in the lathe will still be very a very taxing task for a small lathe. Please be kind to your lathe.
How did you hold a 1" die in the tailstock chuck?
|Thread: Struggling with Sino DRO display functions|
Thanks for the link Tony, its given me a head start on fathoming how the tool library works. Whilst the Youtube video shows a different Sino model (his has more buttons) I'm sure the general principles are the same so tomorrow I will see what I can do on my DRO.
I have a 2 axis SDS2L Sino system on my lathe and would like to use its '200 Tool Storeroom' feature.
The basic problem is that I cannot get my head round the chinglish manual!
Does any one use the tool memory with this or a similar model of display console that could kindly offer a few tips on how to use it?
|Thread: DRO installation - a salutary lesson|
Dave, but is was the 'loosening' that cleared the fault and we have no idea what the term meant. 'If' the loosening was just a quarter turn the its unlikely that is was the protruding threads making contact with anything.
I think this is the most likely reason too.
From the OP's original information it is nigh on impossible to give a meaningful answer, all we know is one axis worked and one didn't, but we have no idea of what type of DRO this is and even less idea of the actual mounting details. The fact that loosening the fixings changed the behaviour is a clear indication (to me) that something was being distorted even if the ends of the screws were not fouling on anything.
Although the DRO is now working, if it were mine I would want to know the actual cause of the problem.
|Thread: Shellac questions|
What are you trying to access, or did you mean assess?
|Thread: size of flex required|
As emgee says, the VFD's own E-Stop feature is the one to use because it will stop the motor quickest.
The disadvantage with cutting the incoming mains is because of the stored power in the capacitors of the VFD which continue to run the motor until discharged. If the drive is only lightly loaded the longer stopping time could be significant from a safety point of view.
It does help, but for another reason. It confirms something I mentioned in a recent thread on this forum recently when I advised a poster not to believe everything he read on the internet!
There are several facts in the definitions given on that website that are patently wrong but one obvious example is that it states, 'cable' has solid and not stranded conductors. The company claim to be certified professionals so how they could come up with that trinket I have no idea.
Is the flex you mention actually flex, or is it cable? I have always understood flex to be the twisted sort of stuff used on things like table lamps and antique telephones, cable is mostly multiple insulated conductors in an overall jacket.
I presume the wiring is between the VFD and the motor rather than the mains input lead? The mains lead will be carrying the total power whereas the motor wires only carry about a third of that.
|Thread: Jig for hand tapping|
+1 for what John H said.
|Thread: DC motor reversing|
Small PCB mounted relay coils are usually driven with DC, there might be some exceptions but I've never seen a PCB one with a coil designed for AC.
In any event whilst a relay might not work on a lower voltage than its coil is intended for, it will not buzz on a DC supply.
|Thread: Horse Rasp on Aluminium|
Chris, You said you found some information on a website so whilst I am probably a bit late mentioning this to you but shock-horror, not everything you read on the internet true!
Sorry if its come as a surprise to you.
Edited By Ian P on 17/07/2020 21:14:11
|Thread: DC motor reversing|
If its a DC motor, which ever way round you connect it to a DC supply it would not buzz so there must be some AC present.
With brushed DC motor, reversing the connections to the brushes will reverse the motor. I do not think that the blue and brown wires you show go direct to the brushes of the motor
The two connections to the motor might be brown and blue but they are not live and neutral, if the unit operates on a DC supply then they will just be positive and negative
If the blue object on the PCB is a relay then that might be the device that actually reverses the connections to the motor.
More investigation needed, is there any label on the motor?
|Thread: Jig for hand tapping|
I rarely tap with conventional tap wrench.
You probably already have a 'suitable jig' in your workshop. Mine is my pillar drill (for work not in the mill or on the lathe). Depending on thread size either hold the tap in the chuck or make a tubular extension for you tap wrench.
Turn the tap by gripping the chuck.
I would say that 80% of holes I tap (M2 to M12) in the drill chuck are under power or more correctly power assistance. VFD at lowest frequency and lowest torque.
|Thread: Leadscrew suppliers|
My comments about wear were triggered by Michael G's mention that a long nut setup would have 'comparatively rapid' wear.
What I said earlier about backlash was mainly referring to positional error, slide friction or sticktion has always been (on my machines) enough to overcome the climb cutting forces. Maybe I have my gibs set to tight?
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