Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How to machine out a metal channel by hand?|
Not really solving the problem but your woodwork looks to be to a very high standard but how did you make it without a workshop?
My thoughts on a solution to the diameter problem are that if the U channel really cannot be removed then reducing the diameter of the bent steel hoop by filing would be the best option. Even if its already painted then just file the 'sides' of the hoop so its ends up slightly oval leaving the upper paint intact.
You could use an angle grinder with a metal grinding (rather than cutting) disk to carefully widen the gap in the steel channel but it would need to be done slowly to avoid heating the metal (and therefore destroying the bond of your adhesive)
|Thread: VFD Cable Supplier Recommendations|
As Mike said that is an odd type of cable, so odd that it probably does not exist.
I have a thread gauge (bought in 1959) that has 'Whitworth 55deg' stamped into the side plate. the 26 different blades (4 to 62TPI) all have 'G' after the number.
As an example 12 TPI is marked 12G 1/2 9/16 but 13 TPI just has 13G (no diameter/s) as have 19G, 22G, 25G, 26G, 28G, 30G, 62G
I'm not sure what the G means at all really
|Thread: Timing Belt|
It is possible to identify a replacement belt in a situation where the tooth profile, the pitch, the width and the length are unknown but it requires a bit of effort. (jump to last paragraph for the easy way)
There are quite a few different tooth profiles and whilst they may appear similar picking the wrong one will significantly belt life. Manufacturers catalogues might show detailed drawings of the tooth profile but if the pulleys are fitted with flanges and the tooth profile is not visible then its hard to compare and decide.
I imagine that as Vic's belt is on a sander then it will probably not have any means of adjusting the pulley to pulley centre distance, therefore its essential to get the exact length of belt. one can work out the length if one can measure the pulley centres accurately but that is not always as easy as it seems.
Measuring the belt pitch by counting the number of teeth on a sprocket which you know the diameter of is straightforward, so in conjunction with centre to centre distances you can consult catalogues and most likely identify what will fit.
Far, far easier than measuring and guessing is just to Google spares with the product model number, most likely some of the results will include the actual belt manufacturers part number which you can then use to 'shop around' to find the best value supplier.
Seven or so replies to Vic's question and nobody has given him the details of the belt he needs!
I wonder if its because we dont know the model number of the sander?
Since Vic already has a price for the belt then whoever quoted must have more info than we do.
|Thread: Converting inch to mm in dxf and dwg files|
If the holes are much smaller diameter than the material thickness then presumably they will at least put a centre mark/divot so you dont have to mark out the positions.
The laser cutting company (online quoting and ordering), I use has an online drawing editing feature that pops up if the DXF I submit contains any errors that might cause the cutting process to throw a wobbler. One can then correct small errors (or design simple parts from scratch)
The submitted DXF's must have all the cutting lines on one layer, must have no text or dimensions and all lines must be unbroken ie converted to 'polylines' (in Acad).
Online quoting means one can change material type, grade, thickness and other factors and immediately see the most cost effective method (where appropriate).
|Thread: Nut Making|
Edited By Ian P on 29/05/2022 12:02:25
So what are the things we can do now we dont have the EU drones?
Yesterdays announcement about imperial measurements is really going to make a difference, not!
|Thread: Again - another whatsit|
A few observations based on the one picture.
It has an odd combination of features. Obviously the indicator and the part spherical objects are high precision but the chassis or frame of the thing do not seem to be in keeping. The indexable handle looks to be a budget diecast/painted item and the single visible hex--headed bolt looks to be the only fastening holding the narrowest ends of the slotted plates to the part carrying the handle, so the bolt would need to be very tight to prevent rotation.
I wonder what the 'tyres' of the two wheels are made from? they look more like mother of pearl than some engineering material!
How many of the part spheres are there and do their bores tie up with anything on the device (like thread or bore size)
|Thread: Finnish on Test Piece|
I suspect the most likely cause of the chattering/rough finish is most likely due to the chuck not gripping the workpiece firmly enough. The slightest amount of bell-mouthing (or the reverse) of the chuck jaws would have the effect of only gripping firmly at one narrow axial position along the bar rather than over, say, 30mm of its length.
|Thread: Anyone know what these are called?|
For anyone with Sky catch-up (or whatever it would be called) I can recommend a programme I saw yesterday evening on Sky Arts, Channel 11 on Freeview.
Programme was called 'Journey into Infinity' and its about MC Escher who must be the worlds master on tesellation.
|Thread: Supplier of 7/32" Dowel Pins Please?|
How does hardening silver steel increase its diameter?
|Thread: 400mm V band clamp, how to make?|
I dont have any way of rolling my own rings (or any way of milling a 400mm diameter ring!) so will make enquiries at the two companies suggested.
I have some blue plastic storage barrels that use these V band type clamps but nobody seems to make them in stainless steel. A pity, as they would otherwise be ideal.
Well spotted and thanks Keith.
I've had few Googling sessions over several days and completely missed that company. I will contact them on Monday and enquire what their minimum order value is as I only want two or three of these clamps.
I want to hold two large disks of plastic (acrylic and Delrin) one of which has an O-ring set into its mating face. Whilst its possible to have an array of fixings around the periphery my preferred method would be to use a custom V band clamp.
V band clamps usually have sloping internal faces to axially compress the two flanges together but in my application the O-ring is very soft and a ring rolled out of extruded 'U' shaped aluminium channel (say in four separate quadrants) would be perfect.
I can fine tune the thicknesses of the two disks to use a channel section about 20mm internal width and about 10mm deep but I'm looking for a method I could I use to 'roll' or bend into a circle?
Image shows a typical V band clamp (On mine if the joint faces are all parallel then there is no need for any great tension to hold it closed).
Sorry for the long description, I'm looking for ideas really
|Thread: how to make it stay in ?|
Assuming the axle is hollow (has a hole all the way through) and the end caps or whatever are purely decorative then my suggestion would be to have an internal tension spring stretched between the (loose fit) caps to hold them in place.
To remove or install just ensure the spring has enough stretch so you can pull one cap out to access its hook.
|Thread: (Another) Mini Lathe Speed Controller Problem|
Big big difference between industrial speed controllers and these sewing machine motors!
Its a while since I have used one but a system component like the KBE motor drivers comes complete with a detailed user manual with probably pages of installation information with more than a few carrying safety warnings. KBE driver units are intended to be installed in full accordance with KBE's documentation. I do know that KB sell a piggy back PCB that gives Galvanic isolation to the i/o signals.
Whilst there is s CE logo on this sewing machine motor there is none on the controller itself and I very much doubt it could ever be made to comply.
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