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Member postings for Ian P

Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Syil X3 CNC Spindle Failed
14/09/2019 19:06:41
Posted by Mike Palmer 1 on 14/09/2019 17:30:58:

I contacted the manufacture and the came up with a wiring solution totally different to the notes on their spec notes, and hey ho the bugger WORKS, much to my relief.

With hindsight I should have done that in the first place, rather than annoying ME

members, so thanks to those who replied with suggestions.

As I said I am out of my depth when it comes to theory of electronics, but to get the mill working who in my part of the world is going to take on a task like this? Answer NO ONE.


Glad its sorted, it would be good if you posted details of the fix just in case its of use to someone else with the same problem.

But now I'm wondering how you were able to give such a clear and unambiguous answer to you own question? The only reason I can think of is that you live on an otherwise uninhabited desert island!

Ian P

Thread: Current leakage om CNC
12/09/2019 17:43:46

With failing memory I dont recall seeing any links or references in this thread to the actual machine, regardless though, the German supplier should have supplied the correct cable for the destination country.

Ian P

Thread: PayPal Warning
12/09/2019 17:23:08
Posted by Oldiron on 12/09/2019 15:24:27:

Always pays to check your all your accounts on a regular basis.

WHY OH WHY are people afraid to say EBAY on this forum. Much quicker to type than "That well known auction site." Everybody here uses it probably so what is the problem with using the correct name. ?

Sorry for the rant but just one of my pet hates along with teh .


Very true, epay, the bay etc, its just silly. What is it with people...

Ian P

mind you, one of my hates is spaces before full stopswink

Thread: Syil X3 CNC Spindle Failed
12/09/2019 17:18:34

Neil, in my reply I simplified the waveform required by saying the motor needed an AC 'type' supply, probably not the best word to use but I was trying to say that the motor itself is not a DC motor, it needs external commutation. The waveform fed to each winding is created from a DC bus, but then that probably started off as an AC waveform (the mains).

Motor manufacturers might describe them as Brushless DC but its mostly just to put them in a category for sales or convenience purposes.

I think that unless I had the full motor details I would bite the bullet and use the makers controller. Most likely it might be modifiable to accept external control inputs (harder if the supplier does not give any information though).

Ian P

Thread: Current leakage om CNC
12/09/2019 16:58:23

Please Fizzy put us out of our misery and explain how a two pin plug was fitted in the first place.

If this was a machine you bought then for the sake of safely potential buyers others should be alerted.

Ian P

Thread: Syil X3 CNC Spindle Failed
12/09/2019 14:58:10


That does not give any details that would allow anyone to choose or wire up a controller.

Ian P

Thread: Current leakage om CNC
12/09/2019 14:46:27

I agree with Stuart absolutely.

How has this thread become so long before we find out the machine has a two pin plug, also how do you put a 2 pin plug in a normal 13A socket?

Ian P

12/09/2019 14:25:52

Unless the machine is manufactured to double insulated standards (unlikely for a machine tool) than there should be low resistance wiring between the machine frame and the earth pin of the plug,

Full stop, that's it, nothing else matters.

Ian P

12/09/2019 14:21:34

I'm sure I and others may have already asked, but what are you measuring with and what two points are you actually touching the probes on?

Table of machine is one I can understand but what are you calling earth?

Ian P

12/09/2019 14:18:34

Answer to last part of your question is yes.

Ian P

Thread: Syil X3 CNC Spindle Failed
12/09/2019 13:13:50

I know nothing about a Syil X3 CNC milling machine but are you saying it is fitted with a 230VDC brushless motor?

A brushless motor only becomes a 'DC' motor when it is combined with electronics, the motor itself is driven by several windings and they need the correct AC type waveform to cause the rotation.

The diver you have bought might be entirely suitable for the motor you have but the wiring between the two must be correct, most likely the fact that it is not running now is either a wiring difference or some other incompatibility.

What details are shown on the motor rating plate?

Ian P

Thread: O rings.
11/09/2019 16:40:16

There are quite a few online suppliers of 'O' rings where you can buy 1, 2 or as many as you want, of nearly every size under the sun. Plumb Centre saying there 'too many non-standard' sizes is pure rubbish, do they have there own standards I wonder.

The online suppliers I use seem to have bearings, belts, or bearings in there web address.

If you have the old ring its usually possible to work out what its original size is. Some interpretation of carefully taken measurements might be needed to differentiate between say cross sections of 3.5mm and 3.53mm but with knowledge of the ID and OD its usually possible to work out whether it came from a metric or imperial range.

Ian P

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
10/09/2019 21:58:58

Why are you afraid to say it was made in China?

Looking round the room I am in, the house I am in and the shops I visit, the majority of the contents, the furnishings, and the goods on sale, originated from China. It would be the same or similar in USA and many other countries.

Where the clip came from does not have much connection with its quality. I think only today the MEW editor sustained minor injuries working on his car which (I understand) is not from the East.

Ian P

Thread: Anyone know where I can get hold of 'Gauge Rods'
07/09/2019 21:12:21

To measure/assess/gauge/judge the distance between shoulders on a part being turned, the use of circular rods or pins looks to be an less than ideal method.

Surely it would only take a few minutes work with a bit of scrap sheet metal to make the end of a flat strip the exact width of the required distance. One would need the ability to file the end of the strip with nice clean and square edges (finish with an oilstone) to the exact width which could be measured with micrometer. One corner could have a small chamfer so it sits against the reference shoulder, the flat face on the edge of the strip would give a much better visual indication of the shoulder width than any cylindrical gauge ever could.

No need to buy an expensive set of gauges either.

Ian P

Thread: wire bender
07/09/2019 20:45:34
Posted by peak4 on 07/09/2019 16:41:02:

Duncan, can't help with the bender, but as regards the stainless/aluminium interface, make sure you coat it liberally with wax or something similar to keep out any moisture.
As a Landrover owner, having vehicles with aluminium alloy panels, I can assure you stainless and ali are not happy bedfellows. The alloy eventually turns to white dust wherever it's had a stainless nut and bolt through.


+1 that SS and ali in contact with each other are not a good idea especially if there is any water involved such as the British climate!

For most SS fixings that I put in aluminium I use Tef-Gel. It is weird stuff that seems to be a mixture of grease and glue and its difficult to clean off things including fingers and hands, I have not found a solvent for it so it stays on threads and reduces the amount of galvanic corrosion.

Ian P

Thread: Anyone know where I can get hold of 'Gauge Rods'
06/09/2019 13:30:19
Posted by Chris TickTock on 05/09/2019 16:19:39:

Hi guys in case anyone is interested just got reply from my horological expert he says as I suggested that block gauges are great for many applications but with the micro sizes involved with balance staff machining block gauges are arkward and have limited sizes.



In your postings you have mentioned that you have advisors and horological experts, surely they would be able to you what the preferred, ideal, best, or correct method of making these parts to size is, rather than saying (as above) what is unsuitable.

Watch and clockmakers have been making these parts for hundreds of years and there must be well established practices documented so you should not need to reinvent the wheel. The one book I would recommend is George Daniels 'Watchmaking'.

Can we deduce that you are learning horology? you show no details in the member profile so have no idea even which country you are in.

Ian P

05/09/2019 11:59:58

I'm sure others will know better ways of measuring distances like you show, but a steel rule will be inherently better than eyeballing the edge of a cylindrical gauge.

Other than that why not just use the indexing on the lathe feedscrew dial (or a DRO or DTI) and make the part the correct length?

Ian P

05/09/2019 11:31:47
Posted by Chris TickTock on 05/09/2019 10:18:40:

Hi guys please forgive me for as I get a lot of help / advice from our US friends sometimes the different jargon gets confused. What I am looking for is precision ground small round rods to use to hold against micro items being machined to assess whether it is the right length. Yes there are many alternatives to measuring micro items but i like the sound of this method and wish to source suitable gauge rods. Sizes would be in order of say 0.100 inch and i would need a fair range around this.



If slip gauges are not appropriate I am now really confused as to what you are trying to measure.

I say measure, but you say you want to 'hold the round rod against the part being machined'. Holding a gauge of any sort against the part does not seem an accurate way to measure. (Its all relative really as steel rules, magnifying glasses and good eyesight can produce accurate parts)

One simple question, do you want to measure length or diameter?

Ian P

Thread: Stripped the drive belt on my Chinese Mini lathe
02/09/2019 15:25:55
Posted by Jim Dalton 1 on 02/09/2019 14:12:35:

Thanks all. I don't think the motor actually stalled. I'm having trouble trying to upload a photo of the belt, bit suffice to say that almost all of the teeth are stripped clean off!

Hard to imagine why so many of the teeth have been removed. I am not conversant with that lathe but its only the driving (motor) sprocket that can do the actual stripping, the driven sprocket has no power (other than inertia) to impart any shearing force on the belt teeth. My expectation would be that once a continuous group of teeth have been removed the motor sprocket would not be able to impart any significant force in section as it would just slip.

I can imagine that if the motor was running and the chuck was stationary (because of some stripped teeth) and the chuck was turned by hand bringing the first good tooth into play, it would most likely get sheared (snatched) off.

Timing belt drive is very robust and reliable technology. My money would be on either a poor quality belt or possibly the wrong pitch belt was fitted in error, some metric and imperial pitches look almost identical, also there are belts and sprockets that have different tooth forms (for low backlash, power transmission etc).

Ian P

Thread: help with gear calculations
02/09/2019 13:21:09
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 30/05/2019 17:06:02:

The results for the rack definitely seem to indicate 14DP. <snip>

The pinion doesn't seem to be that worn, not sure I'd bother replacing it at this stage, if it works.


Being a bodger (me not Andrew) I would agree that the pinion is quite usable, it may be that it could be shimmed so that it engages more closely with the rack but I think the biggest improvement you could do is to adjust the pinion position axially so that the unworn part engages the rack.

Without knowing the bearing or handwheel arrangement its hard to know whether its feasible but its worth investigating.

Ian P

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