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Member postings for Ian P

Here is a list of all the postings Ian P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
18/07/2019 08:28:18

Andrew, what is the material or method you used to hold the spikes whilst you were slotting them, and were they hand-held?

Nothing appears to be clamped down.

Ian P

Thread: In need of a steel ring 132mm dia
07/07/2019 18:31:11
Posted by terry callaghan on 07/07/2019 17:23:01:

I stated right on my first post what I was looking for, that’s why people could help me instead of making underhand comments.

I beg to differ. If you had explained you were looking for why were so many of the people that tried to help having to make assumptions and guesses.

My comment, which was only slightly sarcastic and hardly underhand, could have been worded better. It was not your original post I was referring to, but to the fact that when you said it was sorted, did not explain then.

Ian P

07/07/2019 17:10:04
Posted by not done it yet on 07/07/2019 13:43:35:
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 07/07/2019 12:34:53:
Posted by not done it yet on 07/07/2019 12:16:28:

As in a 5mm washer? I think a piece of 6mm plate, as a starting point, would suffice for that.

That's the way I read it, and I'd also start with 6mm plate, but I already have some in stock, left over from the traction engine hornplates. A sketch, or confirmation that I haven't gone off at a tangent, from the OP would be good.


Edited By Andrew Johnston on 07/07/2019 12:35:18

I think you were on the right lines, Andrew.smiley

I think it would have been nice if the OP (who says its all sorted now) had pressed a few more keys on his keyboard and explained what he wanted in the first place.

Ian P

Thread: Thread Bare
02/07/2019 13:15:36

Going back to the original post asking about an easy fix, the answer is dependent on what Garry considers easy, but more importantly, what is the actual purpose of these holes and studding.

If its not essential to have long lengths of stud projecting out of the holes than why not just use screws or bolts with the finer thread, not as much available as in metric coarse but still enough around to chose from.

From the picture the lathe looks to be a woodworking lathe so its unlikely to be ideal to make studding. Is the 6mm diameter a limit, I wonder whether the holes be rethreaded to M8 (or M7) and larger studs used, alternatively it would also be possible to make inserts with M6 internal thread and a larger external thread, say M8.

Ian P

Thread: Mounting an ER collet chuck
28/06/2019 22:08:37
Posted by Neil Lickfold on 28/06/2019 21:47:33:

Find out which is the concentric register and use that one. Sometimes the outside is more cosmetic than functional, ie not done at the same time as the 2 inner diameters.

What ever clearance is on the register is the permissible error in mounting each time. One way around this is to make it with some small amount of interference or as measured size for size. Then use castor oil to aid in the assembly. It will require some form of extraction to remove, but will be the most concentric that you can have , apart from matching precision tapers.


How would one find out which is the concentric register?

I can only see one feature in the picture that I would call the register and its the large diameter surrounded by the bolting face. The spigot on the backplate should be a tight fit to that recess and the spigot 'length' less than the depth so that face to face contact is on the bolting face.

Since Richard is mounting this on a backplate I dont see why the permissible error would re occur

Ian P

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
20/06/2019 19:16:25

Pumps intended for oil are usually lubricated by the oil itself. Types using two meshed gears and the ones with multi-lobed rotors have very close clearances and would not last long in water.

Its usually possible to determine what type of pump you have jsut by looking at the casing shape and position of the inlet and outlet ports.

Ian P

Thread: Need to drill a hole digital caliper
07/06/2019 14:24:08

Whilst the Chinese caliper steel is hard and is stainless it can definitely be drilled with HSS bits.

I have converted several (different makes) of calipers to simple DRO's using normal hacksaw blades and drill bits and not encountered any problems. The important thing is to have a rigid setup so you can apply lots of pressure to the drill and keep it cutting. It will work harden if the drill spins, so best to run at a low (lowest) speed so you can see what's happening and have some feel.

If you get part way through and it work hardens I find the best way to overcome it, is to change drills (or slightly regrind the same one) so that the very slightly different cutting edge profile cuts in a slightly different position. Most holes I have drilled were 3mm and 4mm, smaller is possible but its harder to put a lot of pressure on say a 2mm bit.

Drills, hacksaws and files do cut this stuff as long as long as pressure is applied and not allowed to skid.

Ian P


Edited By Ian P on 07/06/2019 14:24:27

Thread: Connecting a pair of motor controllers.
06/06/2019 09:54:33

Ron, I have quickly read through this whole thread and unless I missed it did not learn what the project is and why it needs two motors linked together?

Are they driving a common load, so coupled together mechanically?

If motor reversing and braking are involved then things are definitely more complicated than just gearing two potentiometers together,

Ian P

05/06/2019 10:35:14

Most of the replies so far have concentrated (quite correctly) on Ron's original query about coupling two controllers electronically. I wonder though what why or what the two motors are driving and whether they have to run at identical speed or whether they have to be fully synchronised.

If two controllers are being used to drive plain DC motors driving separate wheels on the same vehicle then using one potentiometer to control both obviously makes sense. How the two speed control inputs are linked can only really be determined when one has full knowledge of the speed controller circuitry. Many controllers use a potentiometer to derive a variable analogue voltage (often 0-5V or 0-10V) to feed the speed input of the controller. Whilst one potentiometer (wiper) could easily be connected to two separate controllers there are some possible pitfalls.

One wiper to two inputs is fine, the two grounds (or 0V) must to be tied together as well which is fine, however if the two controllers are fed from a single power source careful attention may be needed to prevent duplicated ground connections introducing extraneous signals because of any voltage drops in any high current wiring.

One slightly confusing point is that Ron mentions 'switching the pot off' giving some braking action. Potentiometers are not themselves devices than can be switched off so presumably he is referring to a combined pot/switch. Knowledge of the controller circuit then become essential if one is to advise on connecting them in tandem.

Ian P

Thread: How does this collet work?
29/05/2019 22:17:16
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 29/05/2019 22:00:51:


MIchaelG. nerd

You've got better eyesight than me, or maybe used a microscope!

I will examine it tomorrow to see why I missed it.

Ian P

29/05/2019 21:40:12

No writing on this one, but it slips on an 8.5mm drill shank perfectly.

Ian P

Thread: soldering brass
27/05/2019 17:05:34

Usual method is to use two or more solders with different melting temperatures, (use the higher temp one first)

Ian P

Thread: Lathe improvements?
23/05/2019 20:43:11
Posted by Niels Abildgaard on 23/05/2019 18:42:39:

I would have preferred new gears in Delrin from You_ Engraving (Ebay) but I have lost his address and Ebay is not very helpfull establishing direct contact.


There is a 'Contact Seller' link on his listings and as long as you are not trying to deal outside eBay you can ask anything.

In any event there are lots of other sources of ready made gears and pulleys.

Ian P


Thread: Oh Dear, I've blown the chop saw...
23/05/2019 17:11:09

If the fuse blows immediately then something is shorted, it could possibly be the capacitor.

Without a reference scale of 'mucky' its hard to say for sure that the armature is toast, the commutator start off as bright copper but sometimes the area that the brushes wipe gets glazed and polished to a much darker tone.

A photo of the electrical bits switch, capacitor and the brush/commutator end) would help.


Thread: How does this collet work?
22/05/2019 21:35:40

Ah, I understand now. I did not realise that the drill would have driving flats and could not see how the collet could be tightened other than by hitting the exposed edge which seems a bit crude.

If anyone seeing this thread has a use for it and pays postage or collects they can have it.

Ian P

22/05/2019 20:31:29


I dont have anything in my workshop that takes Morse 1 but I keep moving this item from drawer to drawer and every time wonder what it would be used for.

An 8.50mm drill shank is a perfect fit but how would it be tightened up?

Ian P

Thread: Variable Speed Drive belts - acceptable dimension tolerance
20/05/2019 21:42:04
Posted by Adam Harris on 20/05/2019 19:34:44:

Colin would the deformation process result in the outer top edge becoming hard and cracked/crusty or do you think it would deform remaining pliable ? The belt I am replacing has its outer top edge worn into a state where it is hard and cracked and I believe this is making the big noise from the variable pulley system. I'm not sure in the world of variable speed pulleys how significant a 1 degree difference is in profile of the sheave vs belt

Edited By Adam Harris on 20/05/2019 19:35:14

I think that in the world of 'variable speed pulley' drives, none of the manufacturers did any significant research and testing on the effects of using the belts other than the ones they were recommending or specifying so really you are in unknown territory.

In practice 1 degree difference 'should' be accommodated by the flexibility of the rubber.

Is the noise coming from the belt contacting the pulley or is it caused by the sheave rattling on its splines or whatever. (I've never seen the Hardinge drive)

Ian P

Thread: Cutting a worm?
20/05/2019 14:48:20

Based on the 4" length you mentioned earlier I now wonder what you mean by 'powerfully'?

If its the pinion that is doing the pulling, the force available will be restricted not only by the limited engagement of gear teeth but also by the fact that the two leadscrews will tend be spring apart.

There are many variations of differential pitch mechanisms, the one you have outlined is definitely one of the less efficient types.

A little about the what is it that you want to pull would help people offer a solution

Ian P

Thread: stamford show vandals
20/05/2019 07:24:53

I 100% agree with Mike Poole's reply, he put into words exactly everything I thought when I saw the BBC report a few minutes after it appeared on their news website.

Ian P

Thread: Cutting a worm?
20/05/2019 07:16:20

Not sure why you would need a worm 4" long. Just to clarify your requirements though, the two parts of the gearset are usually called 'worm' and 'pinion'. Since the worm is engaging the periphery of the pinion (or worm wheel) it is usually quite short and I suspect unlikely to be cut with a die.

I cannot imagine it would be practical to make your own worm and wheel on a woodworking lathe but ready made pairs are very easily available in vast range of sizes.

The long wormscrew you mention would more usually be called a leadscrew.

Ian P

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