Here is a list of all the postings Mark C has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Unusual Engineers Block?|
I have some that I was given a few years back before I had a surface grinder. I now have a J&S but have not finished making space for it etc. I did the abrasive wheel course (I was designing machinery with abrasive cut-off) but never needed to do any grinding as I had a large toolroom at my disposal....
Do you have to locate the blocks with a plate on the chuck - like you would for a small part to stop it slipping?
I have a vague recollection that you can use them to hold smaller items on a course pitch chuck (as long as the laminations are small enough). Perhaps someone with real experience (as opposed to speculation or google) might be able to answer?
Used on magnetic chuck - usually found on surface grinders for transferring magnetic flux.
|Thread: Consumer units -how do they work?|
So that poses the question; Are you just typing things for the sake of an argument or are you actually doing the stuff?
Just a point regarding the Darwin risk. If you do some stupid thing in your workshop and rip your hand off, you probably will learn a valuable lesson but it will most likely be limited to personal education. If you arse with electrics the collateral damage almost certainly will include OTHERS. This is the distinction between competent persons, they are the ones who know that they don't have the correct information and go find it rather than a quick look on wikipedia and some assumptions about what "they" think should be OK.
|Thread: Boxford aud/me10/harrison l6|
Boxfords are 9 and 10 inch swing - buy the Harrison.....
(owner of a 9 and a 10 inch Boxford)
Bob, that is the early type. When you tighten the star wheel under power it rotates, the later type does not and has a different clutch assembly. The early type tends to slip if you don't tighten it up whereas the later one really gets a grip even if you only just nip the star wheel.
As already mentioned by a few, join the boxford yahoo site. There are parts diagrams showing both types along with lots of other info. There are also lots of pictures to view that will help you work out what yours is.
|Thread: Cast Steel, Nickel Steel, Phos Bronze?|
They could be anything but the brass is probably just that or maybe aluminium bronze - if it was phos it would be a rather nice copper red. If you have a helpful scrap dealer near you they might zap the materials with a composition tester which will give the material from it's chemistry.
Bob, I have both types and the early one needs to be tight or it will slip. If you tighten the later one as much it will not slip - or mine doesn't at any rate. I use a stop on mine and the first time I used it on the VSL (same as yours but with bigger spindle) it pushed the thing down the bed, which would have been a disaster if I was not watching at the time!
Bob, that is the old type - that will slip, the new design may not, especially if you tighten it up!
If the feed clutch is in good order (and has the plastic black star wheel - the newer type that does not turn when the saddle moves) you will break things with it as it is NOT a slipping clutch. There are two different types!!!
|Thread: The Beauty of Tools|
Check out my scriber and just see if you don't lust after this baby! My picture does not do it justice either...
Details: Tungsten tips brazed onto shafts treated with Duranickle and central digit indexing area (body/handle) in CuSn8
|Thread: Unusual Thread|
Rod, Michael, I did the check as well (having just finished watching the news) and got to 15 tpi as well (25.4/15=1.6933) which makes sense from a design point of view - we do like round numbers!
You might want to join up here **LINK** at the Boxford group. You will get a LOT of dedicated Boxford help there.
|Thread: counter shaft not running true|
Mark, mine is actually a "Box" level. As long as it is sensitive and fits it will be fine.
To bring this back down to earth, you will notice that mine is better than 0.05mm/m over the bed. It was done when I had some spare time but I doubt it reads like that now and I rarely need to machine long lengths with very high precision. If I did, there are a hell of a lot of other things that will generate problems long before a bit of twist will get noticed.
Mark, the only sure way to know what is going on is to check with a machine level, that is what they are for - setting up machines. Installation on a boat is a specific problem and not one to concern us unless we have workshops on a barge or something similar! You just want the base level and secure to stop things rolling off and to ensure the coolant goes back to the tank (if you use any).
As always, there is more to it than that but as long as you are realistic and the machine is not badly worn you will be able to "see" what it is like by mounting the level along and then across the saddle and traversing the thing along the bed - watching the bubble for movement along the bed. You can then decide if you want to try and correct it or accept it as is.
Mark, I don't know if you are aware of this or not, but there is a really useful text box at the top of the page. You can use it for searching information out - typing the word levelling brings up a spread of results from 2010 all the way to date. I expect a little more time and effort would bring up a substantial number of results so you could spend hours trying to de-bunk all the tosh spoken on this subject, and there certainly is some.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.