Member postings for John Rudd

Looking at the schematics, the thermal switch is an integral part of the transformer...but main power is switched via a relay mounted on the circuit board... The relay is activated by the switch built into the torch....

So is the switch working ok, can you here the relay operate?....

Ross,

Oooh my bad.....I missed your statement about there being nothing at the motor terms...,( assuming you had good contact with the wiring and your meter works ok. on dc volts range ..😀 )

Have you checked the motor commutator? Does it look burnt/carbon'd up?

Bottom line here is the machine is under warranty, so rather than speculate on what is/isnt ....let Warco decide and act accordingly to your satisfaction

From your description above, "none of the fuses have blown, and it tripped the earth leakage breaker", suggests to me that the motor is faulty...

The thyristors or ' three legged devices' have isolated tabs, that means even if they failed short circuit across their junctions, ( anode/cathode...) that would not cause an earth leakage trip....

The circuit board can be tested in isolation by disconnecting the motor from the board and substituting a 100 watt light bulb, the brightness should vary when the speed pot is turned up and down....

Testing the motor for leakage to earth will require an insulation tester ( 'megger'....)

Hopefully Warco will resolve this for you without delay.

Edited By John Rudd on 11/08/2018 22:04:57

Edited By John Rudd on 11/08/2018 22:05:24

Bottom line here is if the boiler falls into the 2 bar 1 litre category, then there are no PED regs to comply with....As it is a manufactured boiler it should meet 'sound engineering practice'....

As Wilesco have been making boilers for many years, I should think they know what they are about...if your local club boiler inspector is unsure about your boiler, then someone ought to be questioning his competence!

Edited By John Rudd on 09/08/2018 19:49:11

Tim,

Given your criteria, it would seem a small 100 watt motor with a kv of 500- 600 would give you the required ac volts over the anticpated engine speed( for a voltage range of 0-5v if my maths is right...) ....generally brushless motors come without any electronics.... The three wires are brought out into 'the wide world'

Edited By John Rudd on 09/08/2018 17:40:52

Tim,

What voltage are you looking for?

The kv of the motor will be determined by your requirements.....for example, a motor with a kv of 1000 will generate 1v when spun at 1000rpm. Other attributes of the motor have a bearing on how much current you want too....

Edited By John Rudd on 09/08/2018 16:44:53

You are half way there.....

Follow the wires from the Start cap, this will take you to the Start winding, then just swap over...

After removing most of the swarf with a brush and vacuum cleaner,I prefer to use an oil based fluid for my machines....be it WD40/paraffin or whatever....Wiping down after cleaning is bound to leave a least a thin film that ought to afford some protection against the dreaded brown stuff..

I prefer to use an oil based fluid for my machines....be it WD40/paraffin or whatever....Wiping down after cleaning is bound to leave a least a thin film that ought to afford some protection against the dreaded brown stuff..

Edited By John Rudd on 08/08/2018 18:44:10

The alternative to cutting the keyway in the pulley is to drill and tap on centre, if the key is 4mm then use M4 grub screws....but dont let them bear down on the shaft. Cut some small 4 mm dia brass to fit flush with the key way.

This will allow you to lock the pulley onto the shaft without having to cut a keyway and protects the shaft from the grub screw, it also affords a degree of protection of overload too....the brass being soft takes the brunt...

Edited By John Rudd on 07/08/2018 12:42:43

I've seen shrink fits achieved by heating with oxy-acetylene and cooling with a CO2 extinguisher....

The alternative to the RDG pulley is make your own.....

When I converted my WM290 clone to vfd/3ph motor, I made my own pulley to suit the new motor ( frame 90 size....)

Making the keyway is probably the most difficult operation but doable in the lathe....

Induction motor my friend....

No brushes...

Moreso in the winter when the shop is cold and damp, saves on heating.....

I tend to push my 626 hard when milling, has a 1.5 hp motor on it....but doc is not as Andrew.....

If the motor when stattic does not make a noise, that only leaves the rotor/bearing assembly as the culprit.

As hopper eluded to the grease, though the bearings when manually spun may seem ok, it could well be the grease has dried out...You could carefully remove the bearing shields, clean out the old grease, repack/replace the shields and try again....Prior to parting with beer tokens for new bearings...

Edited By John Rudd on 06/08/2018 12:40:38

Jason,

Martin has already stated that there are differences between what he submitted and what appeared in the magazine....Is there a further step in the process whereby the errors/omissions can occur?

For two pages this thread has run with errors!

Surely there must be some form of proof reading prior to publication of the author's material!

How can the paying public be expected to build something from a magazine article over a series ?

What is the point in submitting an article if the information provided cant be printed accurately?

Rant over!

Edited By John Rudd on 04/08/2018 22:21:04

Edited By John Rudd on 04/08/2018 22:22:37

Absolutely, that is the way I'm going to go now.....

I bought a set of Stanley brushes from one of the trade outlets, needed to do some painting in my new house, ( would ya believe it?) got some white spirit to clean the brush only later to find the gloss paint is water based! Argghhhh... So to recover the brush, a 2" stanley job, I bought some brush cleaner, "suitable for all types of paint, water or oil based" ......thought I'm on a winner here.... Let it soak....didnt even touch the paint....ended up in the bin...What a waste of money!

The capacitor could be relocated, bringing the necessary wires out into the hump.....is that doable?

Their latest power tools, hammer corded/ battery screwdriver drills are now made in China, quality is questionable.

Originally an American company I believe, they used the name Stanley with Bridges power tools to make Stanley Bridges. Bridges was originally a British company based in London, but the later amalgamation took production up North to Cramlington in the late 70's until the factory closed years later.