Member postings for John Rudd

I bought a proprietry unit that bolted to the mill table, as it was a 110v unit, it need a 110v supply, hence the cheaper route of buying a control transformer rather than a 'proprietry' unit as supplied by the 'tool merchants'...

Go to your friendly local electrical wholesaler and buy a 240/110 control transformer rated at 200VA.....

if you can wire a 13A plug, you can wire up the transformer easy enough....

I paid around £30 for mine then another £20 for a suitable enclosure....still cheaper than buying from 'tool merchants'

No doubt other members will share their pearls of wisdom...

Peter,

pm sent.

if you want to contact me via pm about the board, maybe I can help with a test and repair ?

Well there's gratitude for you.......I see you are inundated with offers of help.....not!

I made my riser block for my 626 mill using my lathe, an SPG equivalent of the Warco WM290.

Gripped my 6" block using the external jaws on my 3 jaw chuck, drill a centre hole and supported the mass using a live centre. Ends faced and spigot/recess turned using a moderate speed..

A relatively straight forward job...

Looks like there is at least a relay for up/down operation...

No doubt our resident experts will come up with a more appropriate explanation.........🤔

Edited By John Rudd on 17/07/2020 19:11:39

I have repaired many of these and other brands of controller fitted to the various mini lathes and mills owned by forum members, it is likely that Howard's friend had his repaired by me.

My Sieg SC3-400 has now been sold.

AnO,

I sent you a private mesaage...please.

If you must install a pressure limiting device to protect your gauge, then this is the type of device you need.....

maybe you could make something that is functionally the same without costing the earth...

https://www.wika.co.uk/910_13_en_co.WIKA?ProductGroup=72400

But as suggested, if the pressure is rising to the levels you state, then perhaps there is an issue elsewhere?

Edited By John Rudd on 20/10/2019 11:40:45

Field coils can be rewound......not too much trouble...

But I stand to be corrected by more knowlegeable folk.....

Edited By John Rudd on 26/05/2019 19:21:39

Very neat Duncan....

Looking forward to seeing the rotab conversion...

I knew it was a mistake to reply to this thread.....

What vfd do you buy?

The makers manual should have a typical connection drawing showing the incoming 1ph supply with their recommended protection devices and whatever is shown on the outgoing side to the motor. Following their installation recommendations should suffice in terms of meeting any protection requirements.

Typically, fused protection or rated mcb on the input and direct connection to the motor on the outgoing side with maybe a filter.

There is certainly no need for anything too complicated.

For your own protection there should be an nvr switch on the primary side.

Steam or ic?

There is the Webster OC engine that is ic....

Arckivio,

I sent you a private message, check the flashing envelope at the top of the page.

Nice...!! ( no jealous smiley)

Nice looking shop too..

I hope you and your new machine have a lasting relationship....😂

Edited By John Rudd on 24/03/2019 13:36:48

In a former life, I used to service the Fire and Gas installation where I worked...

So to answer your questions...I offer the following:

Rate-of-Rise (ROR) heat detectors operate on a rapid rise in element temperature, irrespective of the starting temperature and can operate at a lower temperature fire condition than would be possible if the threshold detection point was fixed.
A fixed temperature detector operates when the heat sensitive element reaches the point of changing state from a solid to a liquid. there is a delay due to thermal lag in the accumulation of heat at the sensing element so that a fixed-temperature device will reach its operating temperature sometime after the surrounding air temperature is a lot higher. Potentially there may already be a fire!
Smoke detectors come in three flavours...optical, ionization and a combination of both.
Most installations for domestic use, use the optical detector, in industrial applications the ionization type requires a licence because of the radioactive element contained within.

If you do go for smoke and heat, dont forget to have a testing regime in place.....We tested our systems every three months...

Can you set the machine up as described then, without a work piece, set it going and watch what happens...?

if it repeats its issue, try again, but this time manually crank it and watch the bolt? You may see something you may not...and further investigation needed..