Here is a list of all the postings Harold Hall 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How could I make this curved conrod?|
I would like to explain that my first post was just to show how I used the spread sheet for the barrel shaped conrod to get me out of a problem, being how to produce a very slight curve, lengthwise, on the edge of a dining table.
Having produced curved edges on around 6 items of furniture I have always used my pencil on a length of string method with the centre point of the curve, often found by trial and error.
In the case of the table the distance to the centre point was too far away for that to be practical within the workshop, or even the garden. I did consider doing it out in the road (not so silly. we live almost at the end of a dead end road) with my wife standing on the end of the string and me drawing the curve further down the road. I was concerned though that the string maybe caught on rough patches making it impractical.
It was then that I remembered the spread sheet and realised that it would overcome the problem perfectly. I posted my comments, not to say this is how it should be done but how I got out of a problem using a spreadsheet set up for a quite different task.
I agree Sam, that over complication can put off a beginner but for me the method I used for the conrod seemed simpler than other methods, such as using a template and follower. One cannot all the time produce methods that suit the novice metalworker, even me who is considered good at helping them along.
Incidentally, Jason, I also suggested using CAD as an alternative to obtain the coordinates for producing a barrel shaped conrod. Like the chair, very nice!
The easiest way of doing something can still be difficult.
Edited By Harold Hall 1 on 09/10/2017 20:07:57
That's an interesting idea Sam. but then, I have not been a cabinet maker as a trade. Will though consider it should I have the need again, though unlikely. In any case, the spreadsheet already existed so it came to my rescue. Incidentally, neither was I a metalworker, but working as an electrical systems design engineer in large power, multi motor projects. In any case, for me, working out a method to achieve something is part of the pleasure in making something, even if its not the best method.
Useful things Spreadsheets.
Whilst having no relevance to machining a barrel shaped conrod some may be interested in the use I eventually put the spread sheet to that I developed for the task.
I had decided to make a dining table and felt that a slightly curved edge, lengthwise, would add some character to the outcome. The usual method of a piece of string anchored at one end and a pencil at the other was not practical as the string needed to be far too long. I then realised that the spreadsheet I had produced for the conrod could be used. From the result I produced a template for using with a hand held router. Having developed it for a radius of around 400mm it was then used to provide the coordinates for a curvature of about 25Mtrs, values from memory.
Should anyone like to see the end result its on my website here. **LINK**
Have a look at my method shown on my website here **LINK**
|Thread: The Milling Machine by HH|
As author of the original Books I have not studied the American versions in detail but as I understand it editing was done to eliminate terms that would be foreign to American readers. As a typical example, away from my books, I used on an American forum the term Knife Tool and was taken to task for using such a term as it was not understood within the context of what I was trying to say.
As for drawings they remain using the metric system in all six of the books. If six confuses some, four were published originally and for a further two publication is imminent.
Regarding the book "The Milling Machine" there are very few drawing requiring dimensions, only one in the first 111 pages then just two pages showing the parts to be made for my end mill sharpening fixture. The book is mainly about the machine and its accessories.
Having on some forums mentioned earlier in the year that I would take a break from issuing further videos the pause has made me realise that it has come to the time to retire. However, the videos that I had already completed and intended to issue two at a time, I have now made them all public. They are a series I have called “Project for an Afternoon” a link here. **LINK**
Having made those comments, I just may add the occasional video or a few pages to my website, but do not see this as likely in the foreseeable future. The reason is that at the age of 84 I am finding tasks increasingly demanding, typically correspondence. I will though be pleased still to receive emails that I can answer simply, such as, “Thanks for your email” or, “That's a good idea, must try it some time”.
Could I please ask that you see the correspondence page on my website where there is more detail regarding the situation. **LINK**
I will still view my website statistics though most forum only give the total number of visits which is of little use, only a small number give the page from which a link occurred and can then be followed up.
I would now like to give a big thank you to the very large number of home metalworkers, world wide, who have thanked me for my articles, books, website, and more recently, videos. Such has done much to help keep me going for some 25 years.
Thanks to you all.
|Thread: polishing clock plates|
When I made my skeleton clock ( **LINK** ) I was much helped by an excellent article in the “Model Engineer” magazine. I have searched one of the internet indexes for the magazine and have come up with one which I feel reasonably certain is the article. This was in volume 200, issue 4325, starting on page 564, and by Roger Castle-Smith.
The title of the article is “Finishing a Gold Medal Clock” which gives a clue to the quality of the result being aimed at in the article.
Emphasis has been give in the earlier posts to the need for the abrasives to backed by a flat surface, I used a piece of melamine faced chip board with wooden bars down either side to clamp the abrasive sheets in place. Incidentally, I used around 12 grades of abrasive paper(maybe more) to achieve the finish required.
For the edges of the frames and wheel spokes I used my filing machine using files made of wood and covered by each abrasive grade.
A word of warning, do your utmost to avoid scratches as using a small piece of abrasive and your thumb to remove the scratch will not work as the impression will only show up in certain lighting conditions.
|Thread: Four Facet Drill Sharpening and Grinding Wheel Dressing|
Norm. I am pleased that you eventually found the information you were looking for regarding the four facet method of drill sharpening, and thanks for pointing others to the sketches on my website. I do not know why the sketches are missing in my book, but probably, I was still learning myself at the time when I wrote the book. Eventually, I did an article for MEW (issue141) which showed the sketches and with much more detail of the process. This, then used as a basis for what you see on my website.
Russell Thanks for your comments regarding my grinding rests and four facet jig.
First, a big thank you to all that have viewed my videos showing my grinding rests being used. This I can see by the large numbers on my website and YouTube stats.
I have now come to the final two, “Four Facet Drill Sharpening” and “Wheel Dressing”. Links here. **LINK** .
My next videos will be in a series which I call “Made in an Afternoon” and consists of small projects on my website . Typical example here. **LINK**
However, this time of year is a very busy period in the garden for me, added to which, the local Salvation Army, of which I am a member, have asked me, due to my cabinet making interests, to make some simple items for their building refurbishment program.
Because of this, I will not be issuing any more videos for a few months.
|Thread: Slitting Saws and Dovetail Cutters sharpening|
I have made two more videos available showing my grinding rests in use. They are for Slitting Saws and Dovetail Cutters.
Links to them can be found here, **LINK**
If you have bookmarked the page having links to my grinding rest videos, note that the links have been moved to another page.
Slitting Saws and Dovetail Cutters sharpening
|Thread: End Mill Sharpening, end and side.|
To see my videos showing an end mill being sharpened using my grinding rests, visit this page for a link to them, **LINK** Even if you do not have, or intend to make, one of my rests, you may find the videos of interest.
However, for an alternative method of sharpening end mills, visit this page for a link to another video. **LINK**
|Thread: Lathe Knife Tool and Boring Tool Sharpening|
Whilst it was my intention to publish one video a week, I have decided that I would like to bring the process to an earlier conclusion. Primarily so that I can spend the summer without the need to spend time updating my website for each one, and advertising the video on around 15 forum.
Therefore, this week, I am making two videos available, also doing this until all the videos have been published in early May.
Lathe Knife Tool Sharpening and lathe Boring Tools Sharpening, links to both can be found here, **LINK**
|Thread: An introduction to my Grinding Rests|
That should be perfectly OK Martin as we are only attempting to accommodate very small dimensional differences between the parts at either end. A single 3mm arm should have more than enough flex-ability to cope with the differences.
I'm all for reducing the work involved, time is all too short.
Regarding my videos we now come to what I think are the most important for many as they show my grinding rests being used for sharpening workshop tools. I say important, as it has become apparent that some have made one but are not fully sure how to use them. This is not unreasonable, as I consider that sharpening workshop tools is, overall, the most varied of all workshop activities.
I have ten which I have already prepared, just possibly there may be one or two more. The one which I am making public this time is, not surprisingly, “An Introduction to the Rests. A link to this can be found here **LINK**
In view of the importance of these videos I am publicising them on all of the English speaking forums which have links to my website. Does anyone have links with a non English speaking forum, if so, I would appreciate it if you can give my videos, particularly those for the grinding rests, a mention.
|Thread: Small Boring Head|
My video this week is for a small boring head which I made to suit my lathe milling head ( **LINK** ) It should also be suitable for any of the small milling machines, for which to my knowledge, there are few, if any, suitable commercial heads.
A link to the video can be found here, **LINK**
Next will be a series of “how to” videos showing how to use my grinding rests for various sharpening tasks, typically, end mills (both edges), boring tools and slitting saws.
|Thread: Lathe Back Stop|
The video I am making public this week is a back stop for the lathe. Whilst one of the lesser used lathe accessories I find it invaluable for the occasional project, often making a task easier, and or more accurate, especially when identical parts are being made.
A link to the video can be found on my website at this page. http://www.homews.co.uk/page92.html
Edited By Harold Hall 1 on 01/02/2017 12:27:21
Edited By Harold Hall 1 on 01/02/2017 12:32:04
|Thread: Self setting parallels for the drilling vice|
When drilling a part, supported by parallels in the drilling machine vice it is probable that, like me, you have had the problem of keeping the parallels away from the drill as the drill breaks through. The device in this video virtually eliminates the problem, except if any part of a holes diameter breaks into an area closer than 2mm from its edge. Even then, there are ways to avoid the problem whilst still using the device.
You will find a link to the video on this page **LINK**
I know I have repeated the following many times but for those new to my videos an index of those already public can be found here **LINK**
Should anyone like to be added to my mailing list so as to get notification of new videos as they are made public then go to my corespondence page at **LINK** and request to be added to my mailing list
|Thread: Four Jaw Chuck, with a difference|
It is Robbo though I may just have made a few very minor changes for my website version, but certainly nothing major. I assume you will be looking at the video as you may find something of interest.
The video I am making public this time is for something unique which I call an alternative to the four jaw chuck. However, whilst the device will do everything that a normal four jaw chuck will, and much more, I consider that it is best also to have a conventional chuck due to it being quicker to use when just holding the smaller sizes of square or round workpieces.
These are the main plus and minus points.
Can use a mix of jaws and workpiece clamps.
Has deeper jaws than a comparable sized chuck, *35mm compared to 20mm
With the jaws still within the perimeter of the body it takes much larger diameters than a comparable sized chuck, *83mm compared to 58mm
Total projection from the lathe's mandrel mounting surface is less, *65mm compared to 73mm
Very much more adaptable for complex shaped workpieces and at sizes beyond those possible with a comparable sized chuck.
When holding round bar, it can be set to run true, both adjacent to the jaw, and at the bar's end.
Reversing the jaws, which is a slow process, is not required.
Much easier to keep the mechanisms clean
Can be used without the jaws as a very robust and adaptable faceplate.
*Comparisons are with my 6" four jaw chuck.
Minus points, just one, it will be slower to set up for round and square workpieces unless it was already set for them from the previous task.
A link to the video can be found here **LINK**
I now have 16 videos available for viewing and for anyone having missed some the full list so far can be found here **LINK**
|Thread: Simple endmill sharpening device (end cutting edges only)|
I am returning to the subject of this thread to correct a misconception about its use that a very small number of readers have. However, with the sharpening fixture getting a mention on a number of forums, they may not be from this forum, I have no quick way of telling.
A few have told me that they have, or intend to, make the jig and then use it on one of my grinding rests. The situation here is that having one of the grinding rests there is no reason to make the jig, only the square holder for the end mill.
The method is to use the fence to guide the cutter holder and the tables feed to set the amount ground off, aided by the stop at the end of the fence. Anyone having my Tool and Cutter Sharpening" book can see this on page 53.
Incidentally, with one exception (my full function dividing head) the sharpening jig is the most viewed of all of my videos with about 5000 visits, and my web site stats showing the drawings for it being the most viewed drawings. This being my reason for trying to avoid anyone making something that they do not need to.
I will be publishing some videos showing my grinding rests being used, with five already finished, but am delaying this until the rest of the videos, now finished, are made public.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.