Member postings for Alan Jackson

It would be interesting to know what fundamentals have changed that create the concerns and comments in this thread. Say twenty years ago these shows were well worth a visit, the exhibits from models makers prevailed and there was plenty of entries for the competitions etc. There was plenty of variety to interest all ages. Now it seems that it is just a smattering of model entries and trade exhibits, with model clubs doing there best to make a show. There was also a good follow up provided by the magazines to describe the entries to those who could not attend the exhibition. I know that a lot of this is now shown on the internet, so this must be the main reason for the shows gradual demise, sad really.

Alan

Hi Ian,

I have tried to understand your problem, but I still do not know why you are blaming the bearing press fits for your inaccurate and not rigidly mounted collets. It seems to me that the collets are mounted via a couple of interface points, the Morse taper and the spindle Morse taper mounting resulting in a collet positioned too far from the front bearing. This cantilever will magnify any errors present and reduce rigidity, making the bearing fits easier does not seem to be, in my mind, the solution. Simply put the collet should be mounted as close to the front bearing as possible for maximum concentricity and rigidity. If I have failed to understand the problem I apologise and I am sure it will be pointed out by others, but good luck anyway.

Alan

I agree with Thaiguzzi's comments on the MLA Toolpost. Here is my version with the cutting tool within the envelope of the Topslide and Cross slide for maximum rigidity.

Alan

For years I persisted with a 1942 Keighly Lifts 4.5" lathe. Rebuilt and modified it but it was noisy and slow and would terrify me if I tried to part anything off. Next I got hold of an old Colchester Chipmaster and fixed it up to suit. It is still a fantastic machine, accurate and now quiet with a polyvee belt replacing the original toothed belt. I built a Dore Westbury a long time ago on which I did more than it was designed for but was never very rigid etc. Now the head resides on a Tom Senior M1 Mill which is also quite super. I also have my Stepperhead lathe which is also good for many unusual tasks.

Edited By Alan Jackson on 23/07/2019 22:11:21

Great News Andrew

Alan

Hi Andrew,

I will also miss your very interesting posts. Such a shame that narrow minds seem to be so vocal. Enjoy your good efforts, but I will be saddened by not seeing them here.

Cheers

Alan

Wow

Charles,

If you search for this on ebay there are many video teachings. This worked for me

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLIDWORKS-2018-Video-Training-Tutorial-DVD/223473506750?hash=item34080f19be:g:C4AAAOSwo~1azhZj

Alan

How about converting it to a Lever locking topslide?

Alan

I visited the factory as an apprentice in about 1957, so this video reminds me of that visit. I think the whole factory was very proud of the machines they produced. Here is a photo of my Chipmaster, still going well.

I have rebuilt this old lathe and I think it now runs nearly as good as it ever did. Replaced the speed variator with an inverter, modified the cross slide and added a new lever locking top slide, plus the capstan feed tailstock

Alan

I have just seen this on youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQaAKUAzK0w

Alan

I think that Russia pressganged people from the Baltic states to do some of the work

Alan

Just look at this

**LINK**

Alan

JasonB

"Good idea with all those uncovered belts and pulleys down the other end"

Only one belt, and it could have a belt guard but that would deny the easy use of the large pulley being used for many applications like holding the spindle for collet locking/unlocking, Threading etc. I much prefer the open arrangement, but it is up to the operator/constructor to do what they want. What about that rotating chuck as well?

Alan

I purposely located the controls for the Stepperhead at the tailstock end for safety

http://www.lathes.co.uk/stepperhead/

Alan

Hi Bill Phinn

"Would it be possible to fit clipless MTB-style pedals and still be able to fold them in?"

You could fit normal fixed or folded pedals, but they still stick out too much even when folded.

What you see on my bike are purpose made cranks where the pedals fold 180 degrees inwards.

Alan

Edited By Alan Jackson on 11/04/2019 17:06:54

ega

I started out with a patent agent but had to dump him because he complicated things too much and would not change some claims because he said the controller would not like it. I contacted the controller and he said it was not a problem. So that saved me money and I eventually got the best out of a bad job.

Alan

Hi ega

https://worldwide.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/biblio?CC=GB&NR=2550447A&KC=A&FT=D&ND=4&date=20171122&DB=EPODOC&locale=#

Alan

Hi ega, Rod, John, not done yet, perko7, and all

I had to go through the patent process just to be able to show it to others. It is a necessary requirement, otherwise nobody is interested and/or will copy if they want: that really only suits big industry, so unlike the copyright process which costs nothing can be drawn on a fag packet and now lasts 70 years the world over. The whole bike has been reduced where possible. The wheelbase is minimalised. The rider is positioned midway between the wheels and there is little tendency to tip backwards over the rear wheel without intentionally trying to. The pedal crank length has been reduced allowing the whole bike to be lower while still keeping the necessary clearance for the pedals etc. This means an average person can put both feet on the ground when stationary. I have included in the design provision for a gas strut to be incorporated into the seatpost support. The frame locking arrangement enables the seatpost to pivot a without affecting the locking mechanism. The wheels are disc because that is what I could make to keep them slim. Spokes or ribbed discs can be used and also be stiffer and lighter. As to mudguards luggage racks lights etc. they can all be added, but It depends on what you want. I was trying to design a minimum mode for a distance of about 2 or three miles or so. As to ride quality which is subjective I have ridden a Brompton which was ok but not wonderful. A humming bird was a hard unforgiving ride and a clumsy fold.

Alan

Thank you for your kind comments and as to the Dahon reference, I too have shown this to some manufacturers who have shown a similar response. They liked it, but also said it would cost a lot to develop etc. They were generally too risk averse and conventional. Most folding bikes are just a reassembly of many standard parts on a hinged frame. On this bike I disregarded convention (Threw caution to the wind, as they say) but convention and caution rule. The gear ratio is about 50 gear inches, which suits a midrange ratio for general purposes. The hard part of any design is to set the design requirements. The phrase you can only have any two of the following, springs to mind: Time, Quality, Cost.

On this bike I wanted about a three to one gear ration for the small wheels. Using a conventional chain of 0.500” pitch will give a large minimum 48 tooth chainwheel. I chose an 8mm pitch chain which reduces the chainwheel size massively. I calculated that with a slightly reduced pedal crank length (Which even expert cyclists failed to notice) driving a smaller wheel diameter it would take a 400lb person, standing on one pedal, (mustn’t just say man) to break the chain. And if that was not enough safety factor, then a duplex 8mm chain could be used with minimal width increase, which, would have the same strength as a 0.500” chain. However, this seemed too big a risk for very conventional, cautious minds. The Chain runs in angle section frame members, thus using the frame as a chain guard. As to handlebar adjustment the bike is designed around an average sized adult.

The handlebars are fixed in position, but the saddle can be easily adjusted. There has to be compromises or it will only fold up badly. Look at a Brompton, the horizontal distance between the saddle and handlebars is controlled by having to accommodate the rear wheel in the folded position. My biased view is that the handlebars seem to be too far forward. Hub gears could be used but this will add up more weight. Dureillier style gears are light but mean an exposed chain which is not good when folded in crowded places. My problem is that I am now too old, but when I was younger, I was much more interested in other wasteful pursuits.

Edited By Alan Jackson on 10/04/2019 11:59:03