Here is a list of all the postings Tony Ray has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Repair required for Milling Knee|
What a shame, I always insist on payment before the purchaser starts moving the machine. the move is their responsibility even if I am helping them.
If you look at Keith Rucker channel Vintage Machinery on YouTube he prefers to braze cast iron as do others.
If that's not an option this is what I would do
Thoroughly degrease the fracture surfaces - brake cleaner is good.
Apply high strength superglue or epoxy it need to be thin so it can flow out of the joint when you compress it, having the part at 40 C will help.
Clamp it if needed ensuring there is no distortion.
When fully cured drill and tap, looking that the part I would choose a thread that is no more than 1/3 of the width of the joint. choose a tapping drill that is a little larger than recommended and use a new tap. If you can, go 10mm into the other half of the joint. don't bottom the tap out as the force may disturb the bond line.
Use the brake cleaner to degrease each hole then remove all swarf.
Choose machine screws that are longer than required, apply high strength retainer and screw them in. when fully cure cut off the excess thread and file down to a neat repair,
If you can add a reinforcing plate anywhere that will help
|Thread: MEW 269 Temperature controller|
Whilst this is an interesting article and the use of a hob element may well make it into my heat treatment project, I feel it is my duty to point out that the gremlins have been at work. For example there is no way that a type k thermo couple will read nor withstand a temperature of 12600 degrees Celsius . Nor will the authors experimental furnace reach 9000 Celsius! Knock a 0 off these values and it all makes sense.
If one does want to make a cuppa with iron as the solvent it's boiling point is a mere 2861 C Lovely !
|Thread: Jock Miller's Taper Turning Attachment.|
Thanks Kiwi bloke for the GA, the roller design is interesting & worthy of further consideration.
I will be drawing this up - don't know if I'll go as far as a GA as I think I've gor my head around it now.
I'm currenlt slicing up a large lump of MS for the bed clamp (sorry don't have the drawing in front of me to recall what letter s assigned to that parti. I'm going down the machine from solid route as I have the material and do not weld.
If anyone can follow what I'm talking about the bed clamp has a matching plate, the drawings call for holes in both parts to be M8 clearance - I would have thought that the lower piece would have been threaded M8 to save fiddling with nuts on the underside at the back of the lathe bed, any thoughts ?
I'm assembling material for this - is anyone else planiing to build one ?
Cost of material is going to be high but as M250 taper turning attachements are as rare as rocking horse droppings it will be worth it.
Thanks Neil glad it was't just me. I like the idea of the reference surface.
I have been perusing the much anticipated article as I too have an M250. In Jocks original article MEW259, he mentioned that the unit used an idea borrowed from an Emco taper turning attachment regarding the crosslide leadscew - forgive the paraphrasing as I do not have the article in front of me.
As I understand it usually when using a TT attachment the crosslide feedscrew is disconnected e.g. the Myford device. I got the impression from MEW 259 that this was unnecessary with Jocks design.
I was expecting in MEW264 for the leadscrew arrangement to be explained / detailed but have not come across it, perhaps it is obvious to the more technically minded.
<moved to where the explanation is by Neil>
Given that the article was much awaited, I hope that there will be a string of constructors eager to get started adapting the design to their machines or to suit their preferred methods of construction. I hope that this thread can be used to discuss designs / construction / show progress.
Edited By Neil Wyatt on 26/01/2018 12:58:40
|Thread: R8 chuck problem|
Now the text. The tooth disc is attached to the top surface of the spindle drive pulley. The detent is sized to fit the teeth and in practise much shorter than drawn. The pivot is attached to the pulley cover as is the spring attachment point. The actuating arm projects through a horizontal slot milled in the side of the pulley cover. The spring retracts the detent so it self releases. You would have to play around with the pivot etc. until you find a solution where the detent locks and retracts smoothly. I built a similar system for my SX3 that locks on the toothed drive pulley it works a treat and was designed by an Aussie on the forum. I would use steel for the indexing disc.
|Thread: Milling set up|
First I would scribe a line at 20mm and hacksaw offf the 1st unwanted 10., you can clean up the cut with a file if needed. I would then sit the job on a thin parallel in the milling vice such that the remaining 2mm or so can be machined off the sawn edge.
|Thread: Milling very hard steel|
Glad I saw this thread. I too have R8 in my Bridgeport clone and it works very well but I'm 5'7 so reaching the hex end drawbar is a challenge without a step. I thought the idea of the Clarkson posilock chuck was that you leave the chuck in the bore and simply change the collet when swapping cutters, all done at low level and probably a faster changeover. You also get the benefit of a positively locked cutter; having a cutter creep out of an R8 when you are milling something precious is not a good experience. I buy my cutter on fleabay and find most are screwed shank, one tip I often buy the odd sizes e.g. 15/32" as they are usually cheaper fine for facing and any job where the cutter dia is not an issue. I also have an ER32, great when you have an odd size shank to hold but otherwise I much prefer the R8 as the clamping torque needed on the ER 32 is very high in comparison. I'm looking at importing one of the powerdrawbar kits from the US.
|Thread: Tony Ray|
Thanks for that,
Assuming that it's only to help with clearance / alignment, I think I'll just make a spacer to pack out the L shaped bracket where it is attached to the bandsaw pivot arm. Mike drilled & tapped the bandsaw pivot arm in situ - I think I'll remove mine by driving though a rod of the same dia. to avoid wrestling with the free arm.
I have followed the design fairly cloesly but have made the cylinder from the blue painted ally tube used for compressed air lines. I screw cut the tube and made a threaded gland to fit. The bottom end is fixed with high strength retainer.
I like your fast feed idea - my cylinder is not too bad with the valve wide open and as I don't use the saw that much it will probably do me.
Helllo, I am building the bandsaw hydraulic cylinder described in Part 3 of Improvemnts to a Popular Bandsaw part 3 June 2015. I can see the function of the bandsaw arm bracket fig 18 on pg15 but can't work out what the larger of the two spring linkages in fig 22 pg 22 is for. it appears to be fixed in two places to the fig 18 bracket so is not a pivoting link like the smalller spring link in fig 18. Perhaps it's a stiffener? The whole assembly is shown in Photo 26 on pg 52. Has anyone built this project and can shed any light on this ?
|Thread: How to convert 440V only motors to 240V: a tutorial|
Does it work on people ? - I could do with it
|Thread: Which collet chuck for a Warco GH1236 lathe|
ArcEurotrade sell an ER 32 collet block system. Unless you are doing a lot of precision work and need a quick loading system ER40 will do the job. I will though put in a good word for the Burnerd Super Precsion 3 jaw chuck I have. I often see ~ 1 thou repeatability when loading &unloading the same job, I mark the job and the chuck with a marker pen soI I get it loaded back in the same position. Unfortunately you are unlikely to get that performance out of the stock supplied chuck.
|Thread: Where can I obtain lubricants for my Bridgeport mill?|
I use NUTO32 in the head and slideway 68 on the ways both off ebay - just ensure that the head drips oil - you want to see a small pool say 7 - 10 drops worth on the surface below the head everytime you go into the workshop. I squirt 11 drops in the head oil cup before every use.
I highly recommend the Practical Machinist Brigeport forum
|Thread: I 'Want' a bigger lathe. :)|
The Triumph 2000 is a serious bit of kit; my dad used one as a toolmaker 7.5 horsepower if I remember correctly. He was a watchmaker so used to working to tight limits. he said it was his favourite machine in the workshop.
|Thread: D1-3 spindle nose adaptor|
That's looking good. I'm sure I have a copy of the drawing somewhere and will PM it to you over the weekend. For my rotary table fixture project I managed to get hold of a D1-3 nosepiece and used that.
|Thread: Tool Holders for Dickson Clone|
From my conversations with Rotagrip the Bison and Dickson cams are dimensionally different and they we abel to supply either and so witheir help was able to get the correct one. I have both geniune and Soba (from Chronos) and have not had any significant issues withthe Soba's but have the following observations
The knurling on the adjuster is very variable and the thickness of the flange on same also. When looking at the holder form above the T slot on them is also variable - some will not go on my stoage rack which relies on 1/4" pins. Although there is more than one height of T1 /S1 holder I think the Soba's are skinny on material.
|Thread: Draftsight ..need a bit af assistance|
Hi, Not sure I follow you exactly. I use Draftsight, if you have the latest release please ensure you have it in classic view the toggle is at the top somewhere on the left as I will attempt to explain using the classic view. I think you are asking what the grid setting is ? At the bottom right click on the grid and a window will open showing the setting. You can check it by drawing a line of a known grid spacing with snap on then measuring it with dimension. To draw a straight line turn on Otho at the bottom near the Grid button. Without ortho using the line command the line will be straight but can be at any angle. To draw a line of fixed length just click on the desired start point then enter the length you want. So if Instarted my line at 0,0 with ortho on I start my line going vertical and enter 3 and the line will be that length. Another way is to use relative coordinates With the @ sign so from zero you could enter @ 0,3 and that will give you a length of 3 along the X axis. If this does not help post a dimensioned sketch and I'll draw it from that. Have you downloaded the tips & trick e book ? That s quite helpful
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