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Member postings for Tony Ray

Here is a list of all the postings Tony Ray has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Looking for help valuing two lathes
17/06/2022 17:30:02

The Drummond is categorically not a clockmakers lathe. You might get £250 for it on the well known auction site. The Chipmaster would make a nice project but it does rather depend on its mechanical condition. It was an expensive high quality machine and parts are can be hard to find, expensive or unobtainable. It is quite rusted and although this can be addressed - please don’t get the wire wool out on it, you might get £1000 -1500, I would put a reserve of £1000 and see how it goes if it doesn’t sell you know what to do.

Thread: What is the best 3d printer for beginners
17/06/2022 17:17:30

Another satisfied Ender 3 Pro user as meets my needs

Thread: MES Kennet Tool and Cutter Grinder
17/06/2022 17:16:09

The stop bar support is missing off my Kennet. Would someone mind measuring it up for me please? That’s the casting that fits, usually on the left, to hold I the bar thar limits the x travel. I have tried scaling off the drawing from known dims but am getting variances.

Thanks

Tony

28/05/2022 15:58:31

I meant also to say that I have ordered the Worden 4 facet jig and the Worden plans. The jig I can adapd for the Kennet and the plans will give me a good basis on which to design/adapt some of the fixtures.

28/05/2022 15:56:11

Thanks for the inf SMF, in the fullness of time I think I will go down the ER collet route. I have an unfinished Stent( I am restoring; some parts were poorly and workholding on it is non-existent. So it may be that whatever system I develop for the Kennet my help me on the Stent. Like many I have too many projects on the go ...

Back to the wheel guard I have found that the base end of dry powder extinguishers makes a useful guard - they are at least 6mm thick. A word to the wise the extinguiser needs to be fully discharged before attempting to saw off the end. I scrounged mine off a friendly extinguisher engineer.

Regarding extraction the Henry and similar units have effective filtration, I would agree that a Dyson is not the best choice. Experiments with a cyclone on my surface ginder have shown that it is an effective emans of trapping grit before it reaches the vacuum cleaner filters. I would say that even the smallest Chinese cylclone is rather large for a T&C grinder but there are 3d printable designs that can be scaled as needed.

28/05/2022 08:43:31

Regarding a wheel guard this is what my yet to be received unit has fitted:

e93f1d42-1af2-435a-8ae6-0a7764f1326f.jpeg

I am no expert but could that be a Quorn casting? If so my friend was able to buy one from Hemingway at a reasonable cost as it was missing from his recently acquired Quorn.

As you can see there are various parts that are missing or probably never made and I can see that there are some clamping? Devices at each end of the table that I haven’t seen on other examples.

27/05/2022 11:56:16

Hi John,

I have been reading your excellent blog on your build - thanks for documenting it.

Thanks for your kind offer I'll pm you!

Tony

26/05/2022 23:35:27

Thanks for the kind offer. I'm mainly interested in any accessories, it looks like it will come with the lathe tool holder only. Thanks I like the look of Dave's ER25 holder. Once I have restored it my first job is to work out how to do 4 facet grinding. I see Hemingway do a kit for the Worden but I also have the Harold Hall jig which might also do the job. Unlike the Quorn this grinder is not extensively documented.

25/05/2022 13:00:55

Useful info here: I have just acquired one of these to restore. I believe MES is no longer trading/ selling this kit? I'd be interested in acquiring a set of drawings if anyone has a set or knows where I can obtain them? Looking at it I think there are some similarities to the Worden sold by Hemmingway as I think there will be some accessories I'll want to make.

Thread: What VFD should I get
23/02/2022 18:21:58

Malcolm,

I don’t know what you have been reading but it’s wrong. As has already been said you need a single phase input 3 phase oiutput VFD and a 3 phase motor. The VFD should be rated to the motor in your case a 750W VFD it won’t harm anything if you go to a 1kW unit but you don’t need to. With respect it doesn’t appear that you have a great deal of experience in electrical matters so I would advise you get someone to help you with the conversion. One of the biggest challenges is understanding the terminology in the VFD manuals and some pretty poor translations.

WEG, Schneider and ABB are brands I have experience with. I personally would not trust my safety on a non branded unit.

Thread: VFD help required
14/05/2021 22:17:54

To get the best out of the VFD conversation you should rewire the controls to make use of its control circuitry. I did this on my M250. There was an article in MEW on an M300 conversion a few years ago. Can recommend Schneider Altivar VFDs.

Thread: Milling machines - western-made s/h recommendations up to 2k
04/04/2021 08:59:19

If you are going to use the shed then imho a concrete floor with a damp proof membrane is a must. I would however seriously consider the nuclear option if you think you are going to outgrow the shed as extending a slab is more work than pouring a new one. My friend built his 5 x5M wooden workshop 25yrs ago and apart from renewing the paint it has had no more maintenance that my blockwork one. I built the daughter aplay shed using the same principles which my missus has been using as a home office since the first lockdown it’s a great space. The construction techniques are simple and the materials readily available. I would recommend the use of bitumen roof shingle over felt every time.

Thread: Boxford STS Screwcutting Clutch
04/04/2021 08:01:04

Hi Don,

Please post some images of your lathe’s gear train and if you have any details of the clutch implementation on the similar lathes you mention those too so we can see where you are struggling.

In case you need it: To post images you need to create an album to which you can upload them, from there you can then select them when you are writing you forum post.

Tony

Thread: KERRY TYPE A.G. LATHE
18/03/2021 07:56:41

Just to clarify you gears do not need to be ‘accurate’ i.e. precision ground to fine tolerances, all they need to is be able to run together. By that I mean all gears in the set must be able to be meshed with each other with no binding and not too much backlash. The purpose of the gear is simply to transfer motion from one to another at the desired ratio and be strong enough to transfer the power. In a 15 T to 30T gear train the ratio is the same whether the gears are precision ground or 3D printed. When cutting a thread that is not a multiple of the lead screw the closeness of the gear ratio to what is theoretically required is a factor. The pitch accuracy of the screw being cut is determined by the lead screw accuracy and the size of the error in the gear train ratio. Backlash in the gear train and lead screw is inevitable but the screw cutting process allows for it; the cut is always taken in the same direction and the tool is always started a few threads distance beyond the work so that the backlash is taken up before the tool contacts the work.

Yes bed levelling is important. Chep on the ‘tube has som excellent advice on this, another tip I used to take up a dip in my bed was to shim it with post it notes between the bed and the removable magnetic build plate. I also took some time to calibrate the extruder and I can get to about 0.2mm on finished parts.The 6 spline on the Harrison gears is finicky and I had to adjust the model until I got a good fit, now I have this sorted it’s just a case of dropping this element into each gear model. In your case a bore with a single key way can be achieved in many ways. It will be worth increasing the fill density around the bore and the teeth. If you need further help on this please ask.

I highly recommend Ivan Law and Martin Cleve’s books on gear and screw cutting respectively.

17/03/2021 21:31:39

Hi,

I don’t think you don’t need to spend that amount of money on change wheels

**LINK**

I’m sure this seller can make you what you need. Alternatively If you have access to a 3D printer you can print them, I have been experimenting in making them in 1.5 mod with the 6 spline centre as per the eBay listing, you may need to fettle the key way with a needle file. Many lathes use plastic/ tufnol gears.

Tony

Thread: EXE Surface Grinder Manual
10/03/2021 07:06:55

Have a look at the Exe, pages on Lathes.co.uk the ris mention of someone called Oliver Slocombe who has some parts for sale he may be able to help you or direct you to someone who can.

Wel done on the acquisition it is very nice machine.

Thread: Boxford STS Screwcutting Clutch
09/03/2021 18:44:53

Hi Gray, I will keep the alternative banjo idea in mind but I’m going to try to develop the second shaft arrangement. Your comment re keeping the new output shaft on the same circle in relation to the input shaft he to screw cutting box was very helpful. I lie the idea of using an HTD belt to transfer motion to the new shaft but the shortest length seems to be 300mm so it might need a jockey wheel to fold it into the space required.

I think relocating the banjo is not going to be an issue and one I can manage.

Thanks for future explaining the your Emco version, what is the piurpose of the other gears that are in it ?

Regards

Tony

09/03/2021 18:32:04

Hi Clive, as you say you don’t have a lot of room to work with. The operation of you coaxial clutch is straightforward and I’m assuming that that’s a schematic as there looks like a lot of opportunities to make it more compact. Unlike you I need to change form metric to imperial quite regularly as I only have one machine. I would imagine you have the P&W for imperial and the S&B for metric?

08/03/2021 23:51:03

Clive: I’m glad I was of help in a “But I didn’t do anything” kind of way.

Thanks Gray & Clive for confirming my understanding of the STS solution, it is not yet my solution for the Harrison, and finally thanks also Gray for ansewingbwhat was going to be my next question regarding the use of the lathes existing fwd / rev knob.

08/03/2021 07:49:48

Ok I think I have the STS solution figured out, I had a light bulb moment last night so here goes:

A 30T gear fitted with a drive dog is fixed to the output shaft from the lathe . Engaged with this gear is a 15T idler that is wider so that it engages with a second 15T idler which then drives a second 30T gear also fitted with a drive dog that is free to rotate on the final output shaft. The two dog gears face each other and interposed is a clutch plate that is slid either to the left or to the right to engage with either drive dog. The clutch plate is keyed to the final output shaft. When slid to the right the clutch plate and therefore the final output shaft is driven in the same direction of rotation as the lathe output shaft. When slid to the left it rotates in the opposite direction because the second dog gear is driven off the first dog gear via two idlers which reverse the rotation. Because the idlers have the same 15T tooth count and both dog gears 30T the final output shaf rotates athletic same speed as the lathe output shaft no matter which way the clutch is driven. Finally for the sak of completeness the clutch is actuated with manual via the knobbed lever that project towards the from of the lathe or by the trip mechanism which runs down to the trip bar.

I think that it, this will help me figure out what my solution.

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