Here is a list of all the postings chris stephens has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Metal spinning without the need for skill, well almost without the need|
Bazyle, Doesn't everybody have a need for small dishes? As the description under the video says these are repair parts and when finished they will not look like dishes at all, hopefully.
You are of course quite correct about titling, but a bit late now as it might confuse people. Following either link would give everybody easy access to my channel where they can find part 2 and other things that might prove interesting with more to come, as and when. The channel name is the same as my name, which seems simple enough.
Ian SC, That was my thought too, and I think I was right.
JasonB. You clearly have the knack but you and I know mild steel is pi** easy to spin. You may have noticed in the second part that I was making more than a one.off and also that the spun part is not actually in contact with the mandrel, something you do more easily with a roller in the toolpost.
Samsaranda, Proper spinning is a black art, till you give it a try that is, this technique is more than fit for purpose for the task in hand and as the video title implies anyone can have a go. A caveat would be I was spinning mild steel which does not need annealing, unlike brass or copper, and in real spinning the art is knowing when to anneal before it's too late and things go pear shaped.
Don't be fooled by the noise, that is a function of closeness of the camera and the microphone. I have heard a Warco and I can assure you a Bantam is very much quieter than the particular Warco I am thinking of.
Emgee, indeed the power feed increases the noise level but even when running it is not oppressive, especially if you use thick chain saw oil on the gears.
Jim Nic,You are welcome, I thought if the mysteries were dispelled more folks could have a go. The blanks are bog standard mild steel sheet about 0.8mm thick. Had it been a copper or copper based alloy it would probably have needed to be annealed several times during the process.
SB5, Although I put a hole in the discs they are for the second part of the operations, I will put up a video of that later when I get back to making the parts. As you can see from the video once even the slightest bend is formed it holds the disc in place adequately. Give it a go, but try MS rather that copper or brass till you get the hang of it. The advantage of a roller in the toolpost is you don't have to go down to the mandrel, you use the cross feed for OD sizing, which means you are unlikely to over stretch the metal which is a problem when learning the proper way of doing it. Oh and thanks for the compliment, much appreciated.
Thanks for your concern, that's why I mentioned in the video about the paper. If it should get caught,very very low risk in the situation,no harm would be done. The cloth was only about 9 inches square and again should it have been caught in the jaws no possible harm would occur.
thanks for compliment.
There is a black neoprene bedway cover that is always on the lathe, the paper and cloth were there for photographic contrast only. There is no need for any covering at all as there is no residue from the process.
I have just taken some photos of the roller in pieces which shows the cover. I'll load them as a YT video as a friend in the US asked for them.
Sure is, and doing it this way you can vary the OD, within reason, unlike standard spinning or press tooling.
Thanks for the compliment.
It's a random 10mm bore ball race from the scrap bin, and the dome shaped part is scrapbinium stainless, shaped by use of handwheels and a little bit of abrasive. I shall take a series of pictures of it in pieces and put them up as a video.
Hi Guys, in case anyone is interested I put up a couple of videos showing the start of making some pieces for a friend, yes I do still have one or two left, using a bodger's way of metal spinning.
If you comment, please be kind or at least polite.:>
Edited By JasonB on 08/05/2018 07:10:52
|Thread: Show and Tell Event for Forum Members?|
How about Brooklands in September?
|Thread: Myford Lathe Tool Inserts|
Hi Collin, that's the kit but from that picture you can't see the squared ends of the other 'inserts'. I bought an unused set at a SMEE rummage sale, was not overly impressed compared to one of my homemade but have not experimented with varying the top rake yet, maybe one day.
Hi Guys, are we forgetting that Myford, the original one, once supplied tangential toolholders?
|Thread: Silver soldering contradiction|
Gap or no gap that is the question. Answer is staring you in the face, if you flux the joint, as you most assuredly must do, there will be enough of gap for the solder to flow into by capillary action. So for the naysayers, if you flux properly you do have a gap. Discuss.
|Thread: M&W 7|
Agreed, and country of origin has absolutely no guarantee of quality, or the reverse, but my bone of contention is that there was a time when things had to say where they were made, so if you see Sheffield on something you are likely to assume the item was made there.
Neil, it was Machine DRO that told me most of their (M&W) kit was now made in China. It's like cheap chinesium Record vices saying "Record Sheffield" rather than "made in Sheffield" hoping the buyer will think it's English.
I'm not trying to be negative about the product but does anyone else think that they should say where they are made and not where the office is?
|Thread: Multifix Threading tooling and options|
Hi Guys, now that a new password has at last been sent I can finally reply. The answer to the hefty price tag is to mill your own, after all they are only HSS.
|Thread: Removing Myford S7 motor pulley|
Had a similar problem when I VFDed my Myford, so used heat to expand the pulley and then used a puller. Once off, I tackled the screw.
|Thread: marlco thread parallels|
MichaelG's answer gives all that is needed to operate the parallels, but if you are looking for "effective diameter" figures Machinery Handbook, Zeus or mdmetric.com/thddata.htm (where it is called pitch diameter.) will give all you need to know.
If you have digital calipers or Mic, measure the two parallels, reset zero and then measure with the thread between them, the figure on the digital reading will be the pitch/effective diameter directly with no need for any maths.
Hope this helps
|Thread: Another great youtube channel|
He sure is, I subscribed after watching the first few minutes of his video on repairing Tom Lipton's level. As i have said here before, he is the perfectionists perfectionist with attention to detail way off the charts. An example for many of us to aspire to but sadly, I fear, few will equal.
|Thread: In Memoriam|
Sorry to hear that, he was a lovely chap and will be missed. I remember the first time i came across him, he was wearing a home made ear trumpet saying it was so much better than a hearing aid as he could point it to the person speaking and cut out unwanted noise. Ever the practical person. Later we shared the SMEE stand where I got know him a little more.
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