Here is a list of all the postings Windy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Case Hardening|
I am not sure if this has been mentioned before.
Midway UK have just sent me this Email about my query about Cherry Red compound
Kasenit is out of business now. This is the only commercially available product that is close to the same as Kasenit, but I cannot verify that it is actually the same.”
Edited By Windy on 03/05/2011 23:26:53
I have just checked my back order with Midway UK for Kasenit it seems that it has changed to Cherry Red Surface Hardening Compound 1 lb.
Is this product as good as Kasenit?
|Thread: Modern Steam Engines|
Hi John H,
This record attempt is American and you can see the details on http://landspeedrecord.intuitwebsites.com/
Edited By Windy on 30/04/2011 13:43:59
Looking at the Steam Automobile Club of America site I came across http://cyclonepower.com/.
One of the engine types is going to be used to power a streamlined car in an attempt to break the speed record for steam cars.
The streamliner is nearly finished.
Does anyone have any other information about this power unit?
Edited By Windy on 29/04/2011 19:36:00
Edited By Windy on 29/04/2011 19:38:27
|Thread: No turning for me this weekend|
Something I came upon a while ago while doing the valve timing on an old ex racing friends 650cc Triumph.
It would not run properly.
I asked if the Lucas magneto was ok and was told he had fitted new carbon brushes to it.
The erratic running was traced to the magneto brushes being very soft material and coating the slip ring.
According to a magneto specialist this was a common problem with some of the carbon brushes from India.
As many of the motors we use are far Eastern are the carbon brushes of a suitable standard for prolonged use?
Edited By Windy on 16/04/2011 15:13:51
|Thread: New I/C diesel project - ETA15d-x2|
Great to see your IC being made.
About 'Simply Bearings.co.uk'.I bought bearings in 2009 from them and advice and service first class.
Edited By Windy on 01/04/2011 13:24:27
Edited By Windy on 01/04/2011 13:25:52
|Thread: Case Hardening|
Thanks Terry have ordered Kasenit from Midway UK.
I see Kasenit number 1 and 2 are advertsed on some sites.
Seen what steels Kasenit number 1 is used for but what is number 2 used for?
Thanks for a great forum.
|Thread: Car Boot Sales|
I have found numerous good quality tools at car boots.
Last month at a local autojumble amongst a pile of rusting machine reamers I found two boring and facing heads.
Narex VHU36 the other a Wohlhaupter UPA3 £18 purchased the pair.
The Narex had a siezed locking pin and required some new gib screws.
A complete dismantling revealed hardly any wear.
The Wohlhaupter UPA3 had an integral plane shank that had been bodged to fit a large taper to.
On strip down very little wear was evident.
A pair of new gib nuts were made and a new taper grafted on the shank.
The Internet has provided me with diagrams of the parts.
If you are prepared to do a bit of reclamation its amazing whats available at reasonable prices.
Edited By Windy on 05/03/2011 23:34:52
|Thread: Warco milling machines|
I am thinking of buying a new Warco milling machine, probably a VMC or WM18 when the Harrogate show is on.
If any member could advise me on any shortcoming on them I would be most grateful.
The VMC milll would need an additional spacer to increase the height above the table, does anybody supply them or will I have to make one?
WM18 mill has a variable speed motor are they reliable?
At the moment I have an old Warco round column mill thats seen better days.
Any comments welcome.
|Thread: Motor Valves, What are they good for?|
Hi James, I have used numerous car and motorcycle exhaust valves on my flash steam engines.
Some have been made of 21/4n and nimonic steel plus others that I do not no the specification of.
Tough but can be machined with sharp HSS tools.
If the valve material is going to be used in a high performance engine make sure the valve you use does not have a welded on head as they sometimes can break off.
Edited By Windy on 11/04/2010 09:57:24
|Thread: Is the 4" Rotary Table at ArcEurotrade better than SOBA ?|
I have bought numerous new and secondhand small tools etc from Ebay.
A word of warning on the second hand sales, study a photo very carefully some sellers are very economical with the truth and if not as advertised demand money back.
If seller refuses tell them you will notify Ebay, many of these sell regulary and most do not want a bad feedback or to be banned from Ebay.
|Thread: Lower Price Optical Rev Counter Accuracy|
Thanks all for your comments it seems the cheap optical one comes out tops.
Have tried reflective tape, white paint and black tape on a bright background as suggested, the readings on the 2800rpm motor where all very close to 3000rpm.
Will borrow my mates old ignition strobe and do a comparison.
Edited By Windy on 22/02/2010 23:58:27
I have bought a new £26 optical rev counter and would like to check the accuracy of it at high rpm and how can it be checked in a home workshop.
It has been checked against various electric motor nameplate speeds and the readings are as followers, these motors are not under load.
Examples 2,800rpm motor, minimum optical reading 2,993rpm, nearly 200revs out.
My mechanical counter reads 2850rpm
An article that I read on speed testing of electric motors says a strobe should be used?
A visual slow speed test was done on my lathe i.e. Slowest back gear was selected and a mark placed on the chuck backplate then rpm counted against a stopwatch for a minute.
The lathe speed plate says 50rpm, my stopwatch test gave just over 62rpm, the optical rev counter read 62.4rpm and a mechanical rev counter said 60rpm
My mechanical counter only goes to 20,000rpm.
At slow speeds the optical counter is reasonably accurate but when the revs go above about 2000rpm there are large discrepancies compared to the mechanical counter.
Any suggestions or are these lower priced optical rev counters unreliable at high speeds.
Another identical rev counter was supplied and it reads the same.
Edited By Windy on 22/02/2010 17:00:45
Edited By Windy on 22/02/2010 17:01:53
Edited By Windy on 22/02/2010 17:05:24
Edited By Windy on 22/02/2010 17:11:16
|Thread: Viton rings|
Hi Meyrick, I haven’t had much to do with Viton O rings of that size as alternatives to metal piston rings but would PTFE ones be any better there is also Kalrez it has the same advantages as Viton but it has greater chemical and temperature resistance. However Kalrez is considerably more expensive than Viton.
Edited By Windy on 17/02/2010 01:06:41
|Thread: Heat Treatment of I/C Cylinders|
Hello Ramon, a slightly different type of 2-stroke piston engine my flash steamer revs to 15000 with no load 10,000 under load.
I use an unhardened cylinder liner of en24t and use a cast iron dykes ring on a cast iron piston.
The wear is minimal after 2 seasons of competitions.
|Thread: Small hole drilling in stainless steel|
Sorry about shooting off at a tangent from small hole drilling.
Amazing that something that Gustaf de Laval in 1888 did for use on an impulse steam turbines is now used on the majority of rocket engines today.
One of my 1911 books shows a gas turbine design not too different to a modern one.
It seems that a lot of mechanical and theoretical ideas are very old but with modern materials become a reality.
I have a great deal of information on the delaval nozzles for impulse steam turbines and am using that as a basis for the design of them.
At the moment the flash steam generator has to be proved adequate.
Edited By Windy on 14/02/2010 20:17:49
Edited By Windy on 14/02/2010 20:21:49
Hi Meyrick, was told it would be supersonic by a friend who has just done nozzle tests on his full size flash steam generator.
We are both going down similar paths one miniature the other full size.
Ear defenders required, hope the neighbours are out its bad enough running the piston engine.
Edited By Windy on 14/02/2010 14:48:32
Edited By Windy on 14/02/2010 14:50:50
Thanks Stewart, a very useful link as was mentioned there are other ways to drill very small holes.
As one member of that link said (I need to drill 0.004" holes, and I think the recommended speed is around 95,000 rpm to keep the drill bit rigid enough without having to worry too much about the pressures that need to be applied for it to drill thru the piece part, drill bit speed is the secret to small hole drilling.)
To do it this way I would have to make a high speed-drilling spindle.
All the nozzles have now been done and have just the test stand to finish.
Hopefully next week there will be a test session to check pressures on combinations of nozzles, temperatures, speed of pumps and quantities of fluids used etc.
I have found that keeping a video record of testing has been very useful as sometimes with all the action of bench testing which is only for a limited time I can miss things that could cause problems when in competition.
Edited By Windy on 14/02/2010 10:05:27
|Thread: Turbine Blades|
V8Eng mentions the gtba and I found them very good at giving practical advice.
I forgot to mention an article by D.H.Chaddock (21 December 1950) about a turbine blade copying attachment and another one by L.K.Blackmore (ME 31 January 1957) on turbine blade cutting for an experimental gas turbine.
The L.K.Blackmore attachment might be more suitable for your turbine, if you require the article I could send you a copy.
Edited By Windy on 11/02/2010 20:04:37
An old book that MAP used to sell (ISBN 0 85242 712 3) Model Boat Propellers has a chapter on ways to make marine props simply, also ways to calculate the various angles etc.
It does not answer your question how to mill one but gives the basics of design.
Another very old one The Book of Modern Engines has a volume devoted to all types of turbines
Edited By Windy on 11/02/2010 17:00:08
Edited By Windy on 11/02/2010 17:01:39
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