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Member postings for Baldric

Here is a list of all the postings Baldric has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Silver soldering GLR Kennions Boiler
30/01/2022 18:05:26

I have made some progress over the last couple of months, between doing other things.

20211119_160637.jpg

Plates flanged, using wooden formers.

The outer shell & firebox were fitted on to aluminium end-caps on studding, with one end in the 3-jaw chuck, the other end supported with a centre, the ends turned.

20211230_112226.jpg

The same setup was used on the mill with a dividing head to put all the holes in.

20211231_122125.jpg

I decided to go with option 3, just as I could then access the tubes easier, I did have 1 tube I needed to revisit. This photo shows the tubes ready for soldering.

20220122_102909.jpg

The firebox was fitted, making sure the rivets were soldered.

20220123_110048.jpg

Then the inner was fitted to the shell, again making sure that the rivts were soldered, the solder flowed through the joint and came round the rivet.

20220129_174511.jpg

One issue I have is that the notes with the kit have a drawing for bushes to hold the fire-hole door, as drawn they are so long they will touch the inner, I only realised this after I made them, so will re-make them shorter with less thread, not that they need 1/4" depth, I will grind an older tap so it has a flat botton.

20220130_104821.jpg

I now need to get some more solder, so there will be a pause until next weekend.

Baldric.

Thread: Taper Turning Attachment
22/01/2022 14:03:52

20220122_121910.jpg

The holes ringed in red bolt the the saddle, the green part clamps to the bed. The yellow part connects to the cross slide.

20220122_121735.jpg

Here is a closeup of the part that travels on the slide you have.

20220122_121717.jpg

The red bolts are where the previously shown part connects to the saddle, the allen bolts dis-engage the cross-slide screw. The part in the second picture engages with the slot in the cross-slide. Also visible is a cover I printed to stop swarf getting on to the cross-slide screw.

As you can see on my lathe the cross-slide is a different one, rather than having a part that bolts on the the normal cross-slide.

I hope that helps.

Baldric.

Thread: Clamping set (metric or imperial)
18/01/2022 17:58:44

I seem to remember reading somewhere that 16mm my be a bit tight, and as I was given a 85% complete set of 5/8" slot (1/2" studs) I have used that. I have considered changing to 12mm studs & making the t-nuts to suit but for the gain it is a lot of work when I have clamps that work. I have so far found it fairly easy to get extra studding, just have to ignore a few metric only suppliers.

If I was starting from scratch I would probably investigate the 16mm t-nuts, perhaps buying a single one to check it fits every where easily.

If I need smaller studs for some vices or items that 1/2" won't fit I will probably make odd t-nuts in metric though as I do agree that is easier to get hold of at your average DIY shed & probably cheaper now.

Baldric.

Thread: Windows 10 "upgrade" to Windows 11 Anyone tried it?
05/12/2021 12:17:22

I have been using Windows 11 for about a month now, I am still getting used to the start menu being in the middle of the task-bar, and whilst I know you can change that back to the left I will try and get used to it as I am sure I will start to see it on customers systems soon.

The only software I have found I can not run is my version of Adobe Premiere Elements 12, but I am not sure if I had used that on Windows 10 and it is rather old now, it won't even start in compatibility mode. Photoshop elements 12 is fine though,

Baldric,

Thread: Parvalux motors
27/11/2021 09:22:44

The title says "Pm11 240v ac to 240v dc" on their website I can't see a 240v dc motor, is that the correct voltage?

Baldric.

Thread: Silver soldering GLR Kennions Boiler
26/11/2021 15:10:08

Thanks for the replies, especially Phil, very clear with reasons, I will proceed with option 2 or 3, just got some decorating to do first.

I will spend some time looking at the Blondihacks videos, for those interested they are **LINK**

Looking at these videos has made me consider checking the tube supplied was cut square, if not sort that out sooner rather than later.

Mark.

21/11/2021 10:48:27

I purchased the GLR Kennions boiler about 10 years ago, after a rather long pause I am now starting to build it, I have formed the flanges with no issue and I am looking at the sequence for soldering the fire-box. There appear to be several options.

1. As described in the ME article that came with the kit, solder the tubeplate to the firebox, fit the tubes in the firebox tubeplate, make pallions and solder from above (water side)

2. As described in another (old) thread by here, as above, tubeplate to firebox, then tubes, but invert the tubes/tubeplate and solder from the fire-side as described by "Fizzy" & others in one of the comments.

3. Fit the tubes, invert, solder the tubes, then solder the tubeplate to the firebox.

In all cases I was going to add a ridge to the tubes so that they can not fall through, and look to use the other tubeplate to align the tubes. Heat reflecting blocks & blankets to be used as required. I was going to use 3 rivets (not tightened) to locate the tubeplate in the firebox.

Using option 3 I would not need a cyclone burner, but if I need one I will get it as I will probably need that in the future.

Can anyone say which option is best & why? I am sure I will get a few contradictory replies, but if there are reasons at least I can then make an informed decision.

Also, as silver-solder re-melts at a higher temperature than it first melts at, all items previously soldered will be located with something other than silver-solder & I can use kaolin to protect them, do I need to use a higher temperature solder for the first joints?

Thanks in advance.

Mark

Thread: Lathe Move
09/09/2021 19:27:47

I used this guy for a Bridgeport move

**LINK**

Thread: Spiral Milling
18/06/2021 11:36:15

I did a similar job a couple of years ago, a 2 start square thread, I used gears rather than belts, but I did need to get a big gear ratio, I had to make the "banjo" and I 3d printed the gears as it was a one-off to make the part & 2 taps.

2019-09-29 17.53.10.jpg

Not sure why this image is on it's side, it is not on my PC.

2019-09-29 17.52.58.jpg

2019-09-29 17.52.20.jpg

The cutter is 1/16", I used the handle on the dividing head to driver the table, the return was made & faster easier by making an adapter to use a socket on the nut driven from a drill.

Baldric

Thread: GPO test meter fault
14/06/2021 10:49:17

It looks like this could date from the 1930-now, so an idea of age would be good...

**LINK**

Baldric

Thread: Ropey Radio Reception?
08/05/2021 09:07:27
Posted by John Haine on 07/05/2021 11:31:34

DAB can't fix this problem because it simply transmits the audio stream in which the pips are embedded. Until someone develops a negative delay line it's a laws of physics problem. There may be time signals embedded in the DAB multiplex but receivers don't seem to use them if so. (Actually there are only a few DAB chipsets so not much variation in the low level capability between sets.)

About 14 years ago I was involved with a project associated with BBC radio, there were plans to insert the PIPs early in to the digital feeds, but I believe it was dropped as not only is it going to depend on the transmission medium (FM/DAB/Freeview/Freesat/sky), but also what the receiver does with it. At about the same time listening to radio via the internet was becoming more wide-spread, that added a whole host of other variations. There is also the route the signal takes to an FM transmitter, that will probably be digital, with minimum delay, I used to here on my radio it switch from one transmitter to another as there was a small repeat of part of a word.

If you want accurate time I would suggest PC time, if set from an external source, or AM/FM radio.

Also of note there was talk of stopping the analogue transmissions, but I am not sure what happened to that proposal.

Baldric.

Thread: Issues 303 stepper driven rotary table with hobbing capability
02/05/2021 12:24:06

John,

I like that idea for the sensor, I can probably do something similar.

I have a 6" rotary table, I think it is a Vertex one, I also do have an Elliot 5" universal dividing head I could use, but I would then need to consider the work to add a stepper motor to this.

Regarding the gears, they are 14DP, with 111, 95, 82, 44, 31 & 15 teeth, if this is not practical using the rotary table for hobbing I may have to do one tooth at a time. I would be interested in your thoughts on the suitability of the equipment I have available.

Before starting work on any of this I will need to also look at the cost & availability of such a hob.

Baldric.

02/05/2021 11:36:52

Thanks for that Joe, I will start to look in to all of that.

Baldric.

01/05/2021 16:29:56

I would also like to thank Joe for highlighting the Bresenham algorithm, I was just working out how to resolve the issue I had with my existing steeper driven rotary table where I could end up with an error. I have come up with something similar, in that for each division, I will take the number of steps required for a full revolution, then work out the difference between the n and n+1 divisions, and use that to advance the table, rather than just using the number of steps divided by the number of divisions. Using this method does mean that after 1 full revolution the table should be exactly where it started rather than a few steps out for some numbers, with the "extra" steps added regularly.

Baldric,

01/05/2021 16:19:21
Posted by Joseph Noci 1 on 30/04/2021 20:48:55:
Posted by JasonB on 30/04/2021 18:54:00:

Joe will hopefully see this thread and respond, he also did a thread about it here

He saw and here he is...

Always a trade off with articles like that - to make it a DIY construction article would probably occupy two or three magazine editions and would perhaps tend to bore most folk. It's not really fair on subscribers to pay for the magazine and have heavy, possible uninteresting content, occupy many issue perhaps? I would not know..

Anyway, I don't really see the need for frustration - as Jason indicated I did do some posts which show in some detail what you would be letting yourself in for if you wished to build something like this, and I generally am around these forums and happy to assist any wishing to give it a try! Paul White, another UK forum member was actually the motivator for this - to build an electronic hobber, and so this was born and Paul did build and use it.

I can provide circuits, C source code if you wish to modify/roll your own, or binary code to you requirements ( within practical reason!) etc. My Wife is the software boffin behind all this. We do not use the Arduino development / compile, etc environment - it's to tacky for our way of working - so we use open source tools on a PC. The code runs on an STM32 microprocessor, on a NUCLEO module - very similar to the arduino type modules, but 32bit and much faster. So all interested let me know how you wish to go! All/most of the bits should be available from RS, Digikey and Mouser, and other favourites you may have.

The unit is not complex, but you need to be able to read a circuit, solder some electronics, deal with LCD character displays, etc, albeit at basic levels.

Can be via email, or on the forum, whatever works and very happy to help.

Joe

Joe,

Thanks for replying.

At the moment I am considering how I will make the gears I require, buying a single hob does appeal rather than having to buy several gear cutters and cut all the teeth one at a time, either-way also adding a power-feed to the X-axis would sound sensible to me as well.

I spent 12 years working in TV studios, maintaining. repairing & modifying the electronic kit, so can do the electronics, I now write software in C++, just I use Visual Studio, so that should also not be a problem in making any changes that suit my needs, so anything I can get from you will be a great starting point for me. The bit I am not so familiar with is some of the issues associated with interfacing the hardware to the software

Baldric.

01/05/2021 16:10:12
Posted by JasonB on 30/04/2021 18:54:00:

Joe will hopefully see this thread and respond, he also did a thread about it here

Thanks, I will read through that.

01/05/2021 16:09:52
Posted by Andy Carruthers on 30/04/2021 18:46:51:

Have a look here:

https://www.worldofward.com/rotarycontroller/overview/

Have just purchased one, simply don't have time to figure everything out myself...

I don't think that does gear hobbing, and I made an equivalent of that from MEW 249, here.

30/04/2021 17:51:39

I found the article on using a stepper motor with a rotary table to hob gears interesting, I will need to make some gears for my 3" Foden and had been wondering about doing this. I have already driven my rotary table using a previously published article with an Arduino and I am generally happy with that, but don't think it has the speed to cope with hobbing. What seems missing is any link to the code used in the article, is that available anywhere? I did try using the search on this site, but it only titles that did not seem to match.

Has anyone done this using a Bridgeport, if so any tips on where to mount the sensor? I have an older step-pulley head, that I expect to run at it's lowest speed.

My rotary table has a 90:1 gearing, I appreciate this means the stepper will have to work harder, but I guess I can reduce the micro-stepping to compensate for that.

Thanks in advance,

Baldric.

Thread: Dickson holder storage
19/02/2021 21:39:11

Oldiron, I would have had to get some material in to do that job or cut up a largish sheet, so for me it was easier to design & print, also a good exercise in CAD, even if a simple one. Before I moved I did use a aluminium u-channel screwed to the wall, they then hung of that, it worked but 11 holders took up quite a bit of room.

Baldric.

19/02/2021 21:35:39
Posted by Chris Evans 6 on 19/02/2021 19:45:24:

Like Oldiron mine are on a shelf bolted to the splashback. Trouble is the shelf is also handy for lots of odds n sods like boring bars and threading tools. All equals an untidy mess due to lack of personal discipline.

My Boxford has a shelf, but not a very long one, it normally has a few bits on it, but not room for 11 holders.

Baldric.

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