Here is a list of all the postings Maurice has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Gunmetal or brass|
I have a slab of material, about six inches by nine and an inch thick, which has a label describing it as gunmetal. Is there a way to tell if it really is gunmetal and not brass, other than chemical analysis please?
|Thread: Stuart S50 (Want to cry)|
I still have the S50 engine that was bought for me as a bolt together kit when I was 12 years old. In those days, the cylinder assembly was all gunmetal. It sounds as if it’s a pity that this no longer so.
|Thread: Lessons ML7|
Hi Allen, I live I Marlow, just down the road from you. I would be pleased to help you with your ML 7. Message me with your phone number or email address, and we can sort something out. Unfortunately, I have to start chemotherapy shortly and will have to limit outside contacts for a while, but if you still need help in a few weeks, please get in touch.
regards. Maurice Cox
|Thread: Stuart S50 (Want to cry)|
If you are using a mill, why not use a fly cutter? If it is long enough you will do it all in one pass. As to the chilled iron, I had one some time ago, and got round it by giving the casting a brief touch on the side of the grinding wheel; just long enough to remove the rough surface.
I have always put my steam chest covers into a four jaw Chuck, and machined them in the lathe. If you have no chuck backstop to press them against, I flind that pushing the front face of the casting against the face of my drill chuck in the tail stock, or even the face of the tail stock barrel itself, if the casting is suitable size, will get the casting “square” and then the chuck jaws can be tightened.
|Thread: ME Beam Engine|
. Hi Malcolm, I built one of these many years ago ( about fifty five). There are two things that come to mind about it. The first concerns the lay shaft from which the drive is taken. If you use the size of gears specified, then the cotter in the big end is fowled by the layshaft. I increased the tooth count on each gear by five, and it was fine. The second was a mistake in the beam casting. The boss that surrounds the inner pin of the parallel motion. It is slightly in the wrong place. It is essential that the pin is correctly located, so I machined the misplaced boss away (on both sides), and turned up replacement bosses which I fitted around the pin with adhesive. I did tell Reeves about it at the time, but I don,t know if the patern was ever corrected. Other than these two things, the build went well, and I was still quite a novice at the time. Good luck with it.
|Thread: Clockwork steam roller search.|
This is a request for help in finding something; probably in vain considering the time involved, but here goes.
When I was about seven years old, a cousin of mine in Banstead, Surrey, had a toy clockwork steam roller. It was a one off made for him by a Mr. Winsford (I think that's the name). I loved it. I went to see him when I was eight, and Mr. Winsford had bought it back from him for a fiver! I was so sad. So; if anyone knows of a handmade toy clockwork steamroller that could have come from the Surrey area ( there can't be many!) I would very much appreciate a couple of pictures of it to bring back memories from sixty-eight years ago.
|Thread: Pivot repair|
Thanks for the feedback gents. I shall now proceed with an easy mind.
I have just dismantled a wall clock, made 1880, that came to me from my grandfather. I need to replace the fusee cord, which I last did when I was twelve years old. When I took it apart, I found that pivot on one end of one of the spindle, next to a 2" brass gear, has worn a groove all round to about half the original diameter. The pivot was originally 0.052" in diameter, worn down to 0.036".From the gear face to the end of the pivot is 0.200, with the working diameter being 0.148".
I thought I could repair this by holding the complete spindle assembly in a collet, gripping the teeth of the 1/4" pinion behind the gear, removing the remains of the pivot, and fitting new pivot material held with Loctite. I would then turn and polish it to size. Is this a reasonable way to proceed please? If so, how deeply should I drill the hole to take the new steel?
Thanks for any help or advice
|Thread: Norden mill engine|
Hi Jim, just caught up with the posts. I thought that I would just point out that the crosshead should just overrun the ends of the guides by, In full size, about 1/4". This is to prevent the wearing of a step where the crosshead travel ends. Likewise, the leading edge of the piston rings, going in each direction, should over run the bore a little, into the counterbore that should be at each end of the cylinder bore. This is what is recommended in text books on full size engines. Whether it is worth while on a model depends on how much actual running it will get, and how authentic you wish to be.
|Thread: Any idea where to buy a square file 1/4" x 1/4"??|
It has been pointed out in the past, in M.E. , that square files are not in fact truely square. They were made like this to make it easier to file a triangular groove into a flat surface by using alternate corners; one corner would be cutting near the bottom of the groove, turn through ninety degrees and it cuts near the surface. I examined one of my files at the time, and the corners of that were definitely not right angles. I have no idea if this practice varied with size of the file, or if it is still done.
|Thread: Full size "Ruston" oil engine.|
Thanks for that Martin. I can find the serial number but I don't have it to hand at the moment. I unstop it went somewhere in the region of Basingstoke, but I may have that wrong. It was quite a while ago. I Shall try to contact some of my old work colleagues who may recollect it. thanks again.
Back in the early 1980"s, a Ruston and Hornsby airless injection oil engine was removed from the, then, G.P.O. repeater station at Taplow, on the A4 about 30 miles west of London. It was taken to a museum for preservation, and I believe it was successfully reassembled and got running. Can any one tell me where it is please? I have some documents that I believe would be of interest to the museum, and a tool that belongs with the engine. Any clues or information would be most welcome . Thanks in anticipation,
|Thread: Any plans for battery loco in 7 1/4" gauge?|
I echo Ron's comment about flangless wheels in the centre position. I have a picture in one of my books somewhere of a full size loco with them.
|Thread: How badly do I need a surface plate?|
I can recommend the use of a piece of plate (or float) glass as a surface plate. To avoid the possibility of it bending under load, or indeed to make it stronger, the advice used to be to bed it on a layer of pitch. This stuff always remains a liquid, albeit a very viscous one, and will flow out to support the glass right across its surface. If buying a piece from a glass dealer, then for a modest charge they can remove the sharp corners and polish the edges.
|Thread: Stuart No. 2 centrifugal pump - machining help needed|
A search through back issues of M.E. Should find a blow by blow description of the making of this pump. I sold a set of castings some years ago, along with the relevant issues of the magazine. Sorry I can't give any clue to the date.
|Thread: Blued metal cleading|
Nice engine Rik,and very nicely blued cleading. I have an S50 mill engine with blued steel cleading which gradually lost its colour with time (too much handling!). I polished off the remains of the blue, and reblued it in the same manner as you. I too was surprised how easy it was to get a satisfactory result.
Some years ago I finished off a Stuart Turner number eight engine for a friend, and at about the same time I completed my Stuart steam feed pump. The last thing I did on each one was to fit the "blued steel" cleading. The material supplied is alloy sheet with a blue finish; presumably anodising. I recently saw the two model together, and something looked wrong. I then realised that the cleading has changed from blue to a pale sort of bronze colour. Neither model has been in strong light, and have been about twenty miles apart. Has anyone else had this happen with alloy sheet.? Fortunately I have a sheet of blued steel, actually made from steel, so I can readily replace it on both models, but I would like to know the cause. Is it just an age thing?
|Thread: sulphuric acid|
I am not recommending anything here, but years ago, every telephone exchange had lead acid batteries large enough to run the exchange for eight hours in the event of a power failure. In large exchanges, the individual cells were lead line wooden boxes about three feet high; quite large, and containing a lot of sulphuric acid. Occasionally one or more would have to be emptied; occasionally the whole battery; and the written instructions in "E.I."s (engineering instructions) were, depending where the exchange was located, to notify the "water board" then flush the acid down the drain.This would have happened a lot in the 1960s when the old manual exchanges were being changed the automatic. Whether this was allowable depended I believe, on how the local sewage works operated.
|Thread: Where's my Dykem blue gone - there's no need to read this|
I think all these lost items are in a parallel universe. I carried a length of chain with a padlock and key into the workshop. The key dropped onto the floor. I put the chain and lock down and went to recover the key. Nowhere to be found. It's probably in the same place as my two airbrushes that also went beyond the ken of man!
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