Here is a list of all the postings Maurice has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Gluing metal|
You might consider “J.B. Weld. I used this on a job, and placed the parts incorrectly. When this has happened with “Arraldite”, a smart tap with a hammer has broken the bond, ready for a retry. Not with J.B. Weld. All that hitting it with a hammer did was to dent the surface. I had to heat it up with a torch to get it apart!
|Thread: Mamod safety valve|
This talk of safety valves brings to mind a friend who used to work in Stuart Turner Models when they were still in Henley. One day a school teacher came in with one of Stuarts oscillating engines with a boiler. He had some issue with the engine, but the chap in Stuarts was horrified to see that the teacher had removed the spring and ball from the safety valve 'because it kept sizzling" and replaced it with a screw and nut. The teacher(?) got a good telling off before he left. I hope he learned something!
|Thread: Model Engineer Beam Engine - 9/16 Brass Ball Bearings|
A. J. Reeves stock bronze balls of the size that you want. I have used them to make governors in the past. Drill and tap quite easily.
|Thread: Variable timing for a steam oscillating engine?|
K.N Harris,s oscillating paddle engine model, detailed in his book, has an eccentric driven plate valve, the timing of which could be varied. The book was called "Model stationary and marine steam engines".
|Thread: Slitting saw applications: limited?|
Perhaps using a between centres arbor in the lathe to do your slitting might enable you to cut as you wish, that cannot be managed on your mill. Just a thought.
|Thread: Chilled cast Iron - a small Rant|
I had this problem on some "Clarkson " castings many years ago. On advice, I put them in our coke stove, banked it up well with fuel, opened the damper to get everything nice and hot, then let it go out and cool overnight. No more hard spots in the castings! I realise that coke stoves are probably rare now, but heating and then slow cooling seems to be the answer.
|Thread: Watts sun and planner gear.|
I was very pleased with myself, when I managed a Meccano version of the gear, having just see it in the Science Museum when I was twelve. I was just wondering if it had been used on treadle mahines or hand operated water pumps, or something. It seems too good to have had a single use.
Just out of curiosity, has Watt's sun and planet mechanism ever been used for anything other than its original purpose, of doubling the speed of a beam engine crankshaft?
|Thread: Making new gib strip for cross slide|
The replacement, or possibly adjustment of gib strips was the subject of an article in M.E. many years ago. I recall that it recomended that the adjusting screws should have a short parallel end and a flat tip, locating in similar shaped holes in the gib strip. The reason given was that the usual pointed screws have a wedging action when the slide is moved, causing a wrong "feel" to the slide. I have no opinion on this, it's just something that I remember (getting less each day!) and may be of help.
|Thread: Strange WW1 Chuck - 1MT|
I have one of these chucks. I bought it for a few pounds at a club auction many years ago. Mine was used by a firm called "Hills" and was used to make the adjusters for violin bows. These are hexagonal, a shape that these chuck seem to be made for.
|Thread: Myford Super 7|
Geoff may have the older version of the Super 7, which has an expanding clutch ring inside the cone pulley. This requires a screw pug to be removed from the bottom of the grove of one of the larger steps of the pulley. Then, holding the cone pulley still, the interior is rotated until a hex grub screw appears. This is a locking screw. It has to be removed to expose the head of the adjusting screw beneath. No wonder they changed it!
It was said on TV the other night, that the virus will survive about 72 hours on a plain surface.
|Thread: Hand Wash|
A "man from the ministry" said on TV today that common soap and water is more effective than bottles of hand wash.
|Thread: Piston seals|
What are your cylinders made from? If they are gunmetal then don't use piston rings.If they are cast iron, then piston rings are ideal; teflon impregnated soft packing is good if the slot is a good fit. "O" rings are fine if the bore has a high finish, or else they will wear rapidly.
|Thread: Wood store|
I am a passed master at putting things in a safe place and loosing them, but my worst example was last year. I was carrying a padlock and chain into the workshop. The key fell from the lock, and I heard it hit the floor at my feet. Never been able to find it since! Spooky!!
|Thread: Gunmetal or brass|
I have a slab of material, about six inches by nine and an inch thick, which has a label describing it as gunmetal. Is there a way to tell if it really is gunmetal and not brass, other than chemical analysis please?
|Thread: Stuart S50 (Want to cry)|
I still have the S50 engine that was bought for me as a bolt together kit when I was 12 years old. In those days, the cylinder assembly was all gunmetal. It sounds as if it’s a pity that this no longer so.
|Thread: Lessons ML7|
Hi Allen, I live I Marlow, just down the road from you. I would be pleased to help you with your ML 7. Message me with your phone number or email address, and we can sort something out. Unfortunately, I have to start chemotherapy shortly and will have to limit outside contacts for a while, but if you still need help in a few weeks, please get in touch.
regards. Maurice Cox
|Thread: Stuart S50 (Want to cry)|
If you are using a mill, why not use a fly cutter? If it is long enough you will do it all in one pass. As to the chilled iron, I had one some time ago, and got round it by giving the casting a brief touch on the side of the grinding wheel; just long enough to remove the rough surface.
I have always put my steam chest covers into a four jaw Chuck, and machined them in the lathe. If you have no chuck backstop to press them against, I flind that pushing the front face of the casting against the face of my drill chuck in the tail stock, or even the face of the tail stock barrel itself, if the casting is suitable size, will get the casting “square” and then the chuck jaws can be tightened.
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