Here is a list of all the postings Maurice has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Pivot repair|
Thanks for the feedback gents. I shall now proceed with an easy mind.
I have just dismantled a wall clock, made 1880, that came to me from my grandfather. I need to replace the fusee cord, which I last did when I was twelve years old. When I took it apart, I found that pivot on one end of one of the spindle, next to a 2" brass gear, has worn a groove all round to about half the original diameter. The pivot was originally 0.052" in diameter, worn down to 0.036".From the gear face to the end of the pivot is 0.200, with the working diameter being 0.148".
I thought I could repair this by holding the complete spindle assembly in a collet, gripping the teeth of the 1/4" pinion behind the gear, removing the remains of the pivot, and fitting new pivot material held with Loctite. I would then turn and polish it to size. Is this a reasonable way to proceed please? If so, how deeply should I drill the hole to take the new steel?
Thanks for any help or advice
|Thread: Norden mill engine|
Hi Jim, just caught up with the posts. I thought that I would just point out that the crosshead should just overrun the ends of the guides by, In full size, about 1/4". This is to prevent the wearing of a step where the crosshead travel ends. Likewise, the leading edge of the piston rings, going in each direction, should over run the bore a little, into the counterbore that should be at each end of the cylinder bore. This is what is recommended in text books on full size engines. Whether it is worth while on a model depends on how much actual running it will get, and how authentic you wish to be.
|Thread: Any idea where to buy a square file 1/4" x 1/4"??|
It has been pointed out in the past, in M.E. , that square files are not in fact truely square. They were made like this to make it easier to file a triangular groove into a flat surface by using alternate corners; one corner would be cutting near the bottom of the groove, turn through ninety degrees and it cuts near the surface. I examined one of my files at the time, and the corners of that were definitely not right angles. I have no idea if this practice varied with size of the file, or if it is still done.
|Thread: Full size "Ruston" oil engine.|
Thanks for that Martin. I can find the serial number but I don't have it to hand at the moment. I unstop it went somewhere in the region of Basingstoke, but I may have that wrong. It was quite a while ago. I Shall try to contact some of my old work colleagues who may recollect it. thanks again.
Back in the early 1980"s, a Ruston and Hornsby airless injection oil engine was removed from the, then, G.P.O. repeater station at Taplow, on the A4 about 30 miles west of London. It was taken to a museum for preservation, and I believe it was successfully reassembled and got running. Can any one tell me where it is please? I have some documents that I believe would be of interest to the museum, and a tool that belongs with the engine. Any clues or information would be most welcome . Thanks in anticipation,
|Thread: Any plans for battery loco in 7 1/4" gauge?|
I echo Ron's comment about flangless wheels in the centre position. I have a picture in one of my books somewhere of a full size loco with them.
|Thread: How badly do I need a surface plate?|
I can recommend the use of a piece of plate (or float) glass as a surface plate. To avoid the possibility of it bending under load, or indeed to make it stronger, the advice used to be to bed it on a layer of pitch. This stuff always remains a liquid, albeit a very viscous one, and will flow out to support the glass right across its surface. If buying a piece from a glass dealer, then for a modest charge they can remove the sharp corners and polish the edges.
|Thread: Stuart No. 2 centrifugal pump - machining help needed|
A search through back issues of M.E. Should find a blow by blow description of the making of this pump. I sold a set of castings some years ago, along with the relevant issues of the magazine. Sorry I can't give any clue to the date.
|Thread: Blued metal cleading|
Nice engine Rik,and very nicely blued cleading. I have an S50 mill engine with blued steel cleading which gradually lost its colour with time (too much handling!). I polished off the remains of the blue, and reblued it in the same manner as you. I too was surprised how easy it was to get a satisfactory result.
Some years ago I finished off a Stuart Turner number eight engine for a friend, and at about the same time I completed my Stuart steam feed pump. The last thing I did on each one was to fit the "blued steel" cleading. The material supplied is alloy sheet with a blue finish; presumably anodising. I recently saw the two model together, and something looked wrong. I then realised that the cleading has changed from blue to a pale sort of bronze colour. Neither model has been in strong light, and have been about twenty miles apart. Has anyone else had this happen with alloy sheet.? Fortunately I have a sheet of blued steel, actually made from steel, so I can readily replace it on both models, but I would like to know the cause. Is it just an age thing?
|Thread: sulphuric acid|
I am not recommending anything here, but years ago, every telephone exchange had lead acid batteries large enough to run the exchange for eight hours in the event of a power failure. In large exchanges, the individual cells were lead line wooden boxes about three feet high; quite large, and containing a lot of sulphuric acid. Occasionally one or more would have to be emptied; occasionally the whole battery; and the written instructions in "E.I."s (engineering instructions) were, depending where the exchange was located, to notify the "water board" then flush the acid down the drain.This would have happened a lot in the 1960s when the old manual exchanges were being changed the automatic. Whether this was allowable depended I believe, on how the local sewage works operated.
|Thread: Where's my Dykem blue gone - there's no need to read this|
I think all these lost items are in a parallel universe. I carried a length of chain with a padlock and key into the workshop. The key dropped onto the floor. I put the chain and lock down and went to recover the key. Nowhere to be found. It's probably in the same place as my two airbrushes that also went beyond the ken of man!
|Thread: Ferric chloride|
I have just been reading the account of etching the nameplates for a loco in the latest M.E. It brought to mind a couple of tips that I was given by the staff of a firm who did this sort of thing professionally for the electronics and printing industry. I was actually getting some photo resist from them, and while there, I was told that if using ferric chloride (they no longer did), if the action seemed a bit slow, don't add more crystals. Instead, dilute it a bit more with airated water. Oxygen is a catalyst to the reaction and it should speed things up. They actually applied the etchant via a foam pad through which they bubbled air, and the bubbles burst onto the work. Another tip, was to fix the work to something which allows the work to be held in the etchant face down to allow the debris to fall away, and rock it gently at the same time. I followed their advice and made two very satisfactory plates for a Robey steam tractor that I was building, (since disposed of). I hope this may be of help to someone.
|Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917|
Those wheels are superb! Looking forward to seeing them complete. Speaking of looking forward, did these guns have breach blocks with an interrupted thread?
|Thread: Knurling speed|
Thanks for all the replies gents; It was really the speed at which the chap did it that surprised me; not how he found the correct diameter. I never calculate the size, but I can only recall two failures and they were ok on the second try. Next time I am a loose end, I will try making a knurl without back gear, just out of curiosity. Thanks again
I have just watched "The Repair Shop" on B.B.C. T.V. Their watch maker was knurling a large piece of brass to make a replacement tuning dial ring. He seemed to do it at a very high speed. I read in M.E. many years ago to do it in back-gear. I just took it as gospel, and have done it so, ever since. What is the correct speed to do it?
|Thread: Telephone / Internet Scams|
Some time ago I had a call from a very nice sounding gentleman with a pronounced foreign accent. The call went thus:- " Hello; Mr.Cox"? "Yes". "I work for Microsoft and I need to speak to you about your computer". "Oh.....you work for Microsoft?" "Yes". " My computer is an Apple. What has that got to do with Microsoft?" Long pause.......
"Mister Cox; you are a BAD man!!!"
I think he was the bad man.
|Thread: Please help machining|
Where in the world are you Jo?
|Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917|
Hi Mal; following my question about the direction of the strakes on the wheels, I have been looking at pictures on the Webb. They have them both "left" and "right" handed. As far as I can see, pictures of them in service generally show them fitted the opposite way to how yours are temporarily set up, that is the other way round to that of traction engine practice; while those in preservation are the opposite Just to make it really difficult, there is one picture of two guns on active duty, side by side. One has the wheels one way and the other, the other! They don't make it easy do they? I think you can choose which looks best to you. Cant wait for the next update.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.