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Member postings for Maurice

Here is a list of all the postings Maurice has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Where's my Dykem blue gone - there's no need to read this
18/04/2019 19:18:27

I think all these lost items are in a parallel universe. I carried a length of chain with a padlock and key into the workshop. The key dropped onto the floor. I put the chain and lock down and went to recover the key. Nowhere to be found. It's probably in the same place as my two airbrushes that also went beyond the ken of man!


Thread: Ferric chloride
08/04/2019 18:57:22

I have just been reading the account of etching the nameplates for a loco in the latest M.E. It brought to mind a couple of tips that I was given by the staff of a firm who did this sort of thing professionally for the electronics and printing industry. I was actually getting some photo resist from them, and while there, I was told that if using ferric chloride (they no longer did), if the action seemed a bit slow, don't add more crystals. Instead, dilute it a bit more with airated water. Oxygen is a catalyst to the reaction and it should speed things up. They actually applied the etchant via a foam pad through which they bubbled air, and the bubbles burst onto the work. Another tip, was to fix the work to something which allows the work to be held in the etchant face down to allow the debris to fall away, and rock it gently at the same time. I followed their advice and made two very satisfactory plates for a Robey steam tractor that I was building, (since disposed of). I hope this may be of help to someone.


Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917
06/04/2019 13:32:53

Those wheels are superb! Looking forward to seeing them complete. Speaking of looking forward, did these guns have breach blocks with an interrupted thread?


Thread: Knurling speed
03/04/2019 19:34:27

Thanks for all the replies gents; It was really the speed at which the chap did it that surprised me; not how he found the correct diameter. I never calculate the size, but I can only recall two failures and they were ok on the second try. Next time I am a loose end, I will try making a knurl without back gear, just out of curiosity. Thanks again


03/04/2019 00:55:34

I have just watched "The Repair Shop" on B.B.C. T.V. Their watch maker was knurling a large piece of brass to make a replacement tuning dial ring. He seemed to do it at a very high speed. I read in M.E. many years ago to do it in back-gear. I just took it as gospel, and have done it so, ever since. What is the correct speed to do it?


Thread: Telephone / Internet Scams
01/04/2019 17:48:16

Some time ago I had a call from a very nice sounding gentleman with a pronounced foreign accent. The call went thus:- " Hello; Mr.Cox"? "Yes". "I work for Microsoft and I need to speak to you about your computer". " work for Microsoft?" "Yes". " My computer is an Apple. What has that got to do with Microsoft?" Long pause.......

"Mister Cox; you are a BAD man!!!"

I think he was the bad man.


Thread: Please help machining
01/04/2019 17:39:20

Where in the world are you Jo?


Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917
31/03/2019 00:58:03

Hi Mal; following my question about the direction of the strakes on the wheels, I have been looking at pictures on the Webb. They have them both "left" and "right" handed. As far as I can see, pictures of them in service generally show them fitted the opposite way to how yours are temporarily set up, that is the other way round to that of traction engine practice; while those in preservation are the opposite Just to make it really difficult, there is one picture of two guns on active duty, side by side. One has the wheels one way and the other, the other! They don't make it easy do they? I think you can choose which looks best to you. Cant wait for the next update.


Thread: Unusual drills
31/03/2019 00:13:39

Yes; I'm working on that. My camera is on the blink at the moment; I am trying to borrow one. I'll post pictures as soon as I get it.


30/03/2019 18:31:51

I was sorting though some bits and pieces that came from an old friend's workshop. Still sealed in a packet are what at first sight looked like a couple of 1/8" drills. However, looking more closely, the last 5/32" of the shank on the cutting end has no flutes, and the cutting face on one is like a pyramid, the other is chisel like, i.e. a straight line across the centre and an inclined face at about forty-five degrees on either side. As they are packed together I assume they are intended to be used together, perhaps for drilling hard material in a two stage process. Can anyone tell me what they are really for, and how they are used please?


Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917
29/03/2019 23:14:26

I agree; this model is fantastic! I look forward to seeing the next pictures. Also, I have a question. On traction engines with straked wheels, the wheels were fitted so that the "screw" effect of the slanting stakes when under load, tended to push the wheels in towards the horn plates. Does any such consideration have to be give to this when the wheels are being towed? I can't work it out!


Thread: Have your fathers habits rubbed off on you. Just for fun
29/03/2019 23:06:08

Referring to the original post, an old friend of mine spent his working life in the paints division of I.C.I. he tells me that while gloss paint is fine with frosty storage, emulsion paint will take on the appearance of porridge and be unusable; so in that respect you'd best listen to your dad Bill.


Thread: Oscillating paddle engine
28/03/2019 22:23:53

Has anybody seen or had a go at making the oscillating paddle engine in K.N.Harris's book; Model Stationary and Marine Steam Engines? Getting all the flat surfaces truly flat and parallel looks formidable, as does cutting the steam ports accurately. I think I saw one once many years ago. it was a bit battered, painted pale green, very chipped, and had no paddle wheels. It was a short distance from me and I didn't recognise it for what (I think) it was. I would very much like to know how well one of on these engines might perform.


Thread: Myford Super 7 Bed Wear
27/03/2019 20:03:55

I have just read your original post again. As Brian says, you reduce lift by removing shims; actually, in the case of the S7, the shims are soldered together in a stack and my be pealed off one at a time. The can be tricky to start; I seem to remember resorting to an old fashioned razor blade. I can't remember how thick each layer is I'm afraid.


27/03/2019 19:15:30

A friend had a similar problem on his old S7. The wear was on the rear vertical face of the front section of the bed. The saddle is guided by the the front and rear vertical faces of the front part,(the "shears". I overcame it by inserting a piece of ground steel, of the minimum thickness that would fit, between the unworn rear face of the REAR part of the bed, and the rear "flange" of the saddle. Small pieces of brass were screwed on to prevent the new piece of steel from moving sideways due to friction. The adjustable gib on the front was readjusted to give the correct about of clearance for the saddle to move smoothly, at the same time ensuring that the original short face on the saddle was just clear of the bed. Ideally, this face which is now redundant, should be milled back a little to ensure that the saddle is in the correct front to back position, for the alignment of the half nuts. We did not have the facilities to do the last bit, but that lathe is still doing its stuff forty years on.


Thread: Newbie with a chuck query
25/03/2019 19:23:34

Following Davids's reply, I have just examined my three jaw and four jaw chucks, stamped "made for the Myford ML7". The were purchased new in about 1970. Neither of them has a separate backplate. This does not help with Collin"s problem, but I think that replies on the forum should not be dismissed simply because they seem unusual. And I do know what a backplate is!


25/03/2019 13:53:29

Hi Colin; welcome. The differing numbers do not sound good, but I'm not sure. However, until recently you could buy replacement sets of jaws from Burnerd. The chucks were made accurately enough to make this practical; and cheaper than a new chuck. I am assuming they are still in business! Having got a chuck with matching jaws, I think you need to pay some attention to the backplate. Before I go further, is it actually a separate backplate, or do you just mean the back of the chuck? The reason I ask is because the chucks "Specialy made for Myford" usually had a threaded body, not needing a separate backplate. If it does have a separate backplate, then it may not have been machined on your lathe, and will need remachining, or if it's not thick enough to allow this, then you may have to get a new one.


Thread: Heat hardening?
21/03/2019 18:30:12

I once read a book by a retired blacksmith, who said that watchmakers, casehardened items by putting the parts in an old shoe, packed with salt and horses hoof clippings! I have no idea if it should or did work, but I bet it smelled wonderful !!


Thread: Recommended paint for a FLB redwood external door?
20/03/2019 02:58:31

I have found "Osmo" products very good. I think it is German in origin. My last can came from the local "Axminster" tool shop. It has a slightly oily feel when dry (if that makes sense; perhaps slippery would be better). It does not peel off like most of the alleged wood preserving coatings that I have tried. They do a range of products, and oddly there are various colours available as well as clear, but not all the colours are common over the range; at least when I was looking.


Thread: I want one!
19/03/2019 15:17:37

There is a story in the Daily Mail today, of a man who empties a plastic tub of odds and ends onto his bench, and uses the tub to spread bird food. When he is done, he just puts the tub on the bench. When he has gone indoors, a mouse puts all the bits back in the tub! He has managed to get pictures. Seems genuine. I need one big enough to move spanners!


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