Here is a list of all the postings James Burden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Elliot 3 1/2 dividing head.|
Sorry to pick up on an old thread, but I have just acquired a 4.75" version of the Victoria dividing head. It has been sitting in the back of a workshop for a few years - very grotty, but underneath it all looks good, all moves freely. Hopefully after a clean up it will look a bit more like yours Mark! You've made a lovely job of yours.
Firstly, would anyone be able to share a copy of the manual / diagram / parts list please?
Secondly, if it helps anyone, I can see on mine how the worm wheel adjustment is made - once the nameplate is removed, you can access the wheel - there are four square headed clamp screws and one eccentric screw - so the adjustment can be made (and I guess should be) with the worm engaged. Photos below show this - along with a distinct lack of oil!
|Thread: Eagle Surface grinder - who here uses one?|
Also Pete - meant to say, have read your thread on the mig welding forum start to finish, really impressive stuff.
Thanks for the info - so on yours, does the outer race rest against a collar pressed onto the bore of the housing, or does yours have a machined step to rest against? Please don't pull your machine apart on my account, but if you happen to have chance to get any photos around the wheel head it would be useful - thank you.
I see what you mean about the outside pulley - that does look a good arrangement. Mine has the belt in between the bearings, similar to Pete's machine it would seem. The belt on mine measures approximately 90 inches long - which does seem a lot. Have you noticed any problems with belt flap? I'm thinking of putting two jockey wheels half way up the column to reduce this, maybe with a poly fee belt as Pete's - not sure if that would help or not.
Good luck with your machine. It's really good to find such a useful source of information - when I started mine a few years back I couldn't find much at all, and it has sat unfinished for a while. I will take a few pics tomorrow of mine - it has the knee assembled, and I have been working on the saddle today - maybe of some use to you.
Some bedtime reading there! Looks like a really good build thread.
Yours has the motor mounted on top of the head? Not seen that before - mine has the normal motor in the base, but does seem to be a very long belt run.
I don't think mine will get a lot of use, but a nice thing to have in the workshop.
Just found this thread and read with interest. I must say, you have made a lovely job of your grinder, really nice. I picked up a Mk3 Eagle grinder a few years ago, overall in good condition without excessive wear. I rebuilt the base and knee, ways looked OK, made new leadscrew and nut for the Y feed, but I didn't get any further at the time - I searched but couldn't find much detail on Eagle grinders - but this thread had inspired me to get going again!
I am very interested in the spindle arrangement on yours - I'm sure mine is not the original setup. On mine, the spindle has one deep groove ball bearing at the rear, and two taper roller bearings at the front. There is an endcap on both ends of the spindle housing, and two collars that are a press fir into the housing bores. The rear cap has a screw that acts on a blind plug to apply preload to the taper rollers at the front, by applying pressure to the rear bearing. Some pictures below.
At the time, I bought 2 imperial angular contact bearings for the front, and a deep groove ball bearing for the rear, but I couldn't decide on a suitable method for applying preload - but I hadn't thought of using the spindle nut. Do you have a sleeve on the spindle to act on the front bearings? I would be interested if you had some more details on your setup, or a sketch would be really useful?
|Thread: Bridgeport Series 1 Varidisc Head Bushes/Bearings|
Thanks for all those details - plastics and adhesives is not my strong point, so useful reading. Hopefully I will be able to do it without glueing myself to anything....
I know this is an old thread, but I think all relevant.
Regarding the replacement black Delrin bushes in the Varidisk assemblies - could I ask what glue people have used to replace the bushing?
|Thread: Air in the workshop|
I've never used it, but Toolstation do a range of John Guest 15mm nylon compressed air pipe and all the push in fittings. Looks good and easy to fit, and quite good price - i'm sure you could find a data sheet somewhere with pressures, etc?
|Thread: Quality indexable lathe tools|
I use Greenwood Tools for inserts - I find them excellent quality and give consistently good results. I have Glanze holders, and the inserts fit OK in them (CCMT and DCMT).
I tried the screwcutting holder and inserts last year, and they are first class. The only think I have found is that the inserts are not as forgiving as HSS - quite easy to chip the point of the insert.
Not the cheapest, but have tried cheaper brands and generally been disappointed.
|Thread: Rivet Setting Tool|
There was a hand rivet squeezer detailed in ME years ago - if you PM me your email address I can send you a copy of the article / drawings.
|Thread: Jasons tips|
On the subject of insert size, where equipment allows, is there an advantage to using the 09 size over the 06 size?
I have small and larger tool holders for 2 different lathes, but all use the smaller 06 size tips so I can share the tips.
Would there be any advantage in buying alternative 09 size holders as well?
|Thread: Feedscrew Material|
Thanks for your posts - sorry for delay in replying.
Some more digging has revealed these are 5/8 x 20 TPI threads, BSW form - I had previously found some 5/8x20 cycle taps listed on RDGs site, which is why I had assumed they were cycle thread.
I want to keep the machine as original as possible, so I don't really want to use studding on this occasion - but a good idea for a future project.
I had been thinking of EN1, but want these to last - I couldn't find a UK equivalent to 1144, but EN8 looks to have a similar carbon content, so I have ordered a length on EN8, and will see how I get on.
I am currently rebuilding an old drill grinder, and am considering remaking the feedscrews / nuts as these are quite worn.
I wonder if anyone has experience of this, with regard to material selection? Would EN1 be adequate, or should you go for a higher grade steel? The nuts are bronze, and the thread is 5/8 x 20 TPI (which seems to be cycle thread - these are for fine feed).
|Thread: Screw cutting Advice|
Thanks again for your posts.
Emgee, those look good, I hadn't thought about making holders - have you mounted these flat, i.e. zero degrees in the holder? Do you need to worry about helix angles (I may be over-thinking this..!)
Regarding chasers, I have quite a good selection of hand chasers in various TPIs / forms that were given to me a few years ago, but I have never used these. To be honest I was never sure of the correct way to use them - should they be mounted in a toolpost and applied with the leadscrew, or are they really applied by hand? Should there be a support mounted in the toolpost?
Edited By James Burden on 06/11/2015 13:30:42
Thanks for your comments / advice - I didn't realise there was a difference between partial and full form inserts, useful information.
I think I will try one of the insert tools and see how I get on!
I wonder if I could ask some advice on screw cutting please?
Firstly, I have ground and used my own HSS screw cutting tool before without too many problems, but I am currently remaking a grinder spindle, and would like the threads on there to be as clean as possible - I wondered in anyone uses the insert type threading tools, and if these produce better results? Example below:
Secondly, are these inserts suitable for RH and LH threads?
Thanks in advance,
|Thread: My little engine (continued)|
That looks to be silver soldered on the shank.
I have found that the very thin cutting discs (1mm) in a small angle grinder are perfect for cutting tool steel.
This is essentially a tangential type tool - so the centre drill / tool steel would be mounted on the end of the shank at a small angle giving you the relief angle at the front.
Then you grind the top edge flat to give a cutting edge - parallel with the top edge of the shank for brass (zero rake) or at an angle for steels.
Have been following your build diary with interest - great job!
Have a look at the 7th post down the page on the link below - uses an old centre drill to make a profile tool. I have saved this for future use, thought it was an excellent way of making a radius tool...
|Thread: Supplier of quality knurls?|
Cromwell Tools list that size - 3/4" x 3/8" x 14" - in straight, right hand, left hand and checkered patterns.
Edited By James Burden on 29/05/2015 12:25:24
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Ahh you mean like the new Nitromoors, specially formulated to protect paintwork...!
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