Here is a list of all the postings duncan webster has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Making leaf springs|
Tubal Cain did something many moons ago in ME. He also did a book Spring Design and Manufacture, part of Workshop Practice series **LINK**
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
Time for my whinge: we seem to import iron ore and coal from the ends of the earth to make iron, which we then convert into steel. At the end of its useful life we send this steel (now scrap) to China to be recycled into new steel. Why don't we just stop making iron and recycle our own scrap
|Thread: To use chuck or collets|
Myford type collets, or any MT2 collet with a drawbar need material which is close to nominal size, no good at all for black bar or odd size stuff. If using drawbar type be very careful you don't overtighten the drawbar or you will have a devil of a job releasing it. Don't ask how I know. I've got an ER set up for my 254, but I hardly ever use it, most of the time I use the 3 jaw, if the 4 jaw is on I just use that, yes I've even set up hex bar in a 4 jaw, one of my irrational pet hates is swapping chucks
|Thread: Call for Classified Ads for MEW|
It's my turn to be red faced, I hadn't spotted that Mark was correcting himself.
Note the pedant
|Thread: 2020 Had my full size flash steam engine running|
Wonderful! Is the poppet valve pressure balanced in any way, or does it just open against HP steam?
|Thread: New legislation that could affect us all.|
There actually is a British Standard (yes British, nothing to do with EU or ISO) for making a cup of tea
|Thread: Stuck Chuck|
Try warming the chuck before you get too violent. If you've got a nut that fits the thread saw though half way on a point, so that when you put it in the vice the nut will close up on the thread, that will help to prevent damage to the thread, and the mass of the vice will tend to keep the threaded bit cool.
|Thread: Watch servicing|
Technology moves on, my last quartz watch lasted 20 years, I've just replaced it with an identical model. Cost me £20 or so. Wind up watches are obsolete, so very little demand for getting them mended apart from those stupidly expensive things sold in Sunday magazines, and if you're rich enough to buy one of those, you're rich enough to pay an exorbitant price to have it mended.
|Thread: No wonder my swarf bucket is full|
friend of mine had a subcontract machining job in some exotic material, he made more selling the swarf than producing the components
|Thread: Imperial supplies of mild steel|
If we are talking bright strip, beware of cutting down the middle of say 3/32 * 3/4 to get 2 bits of 3/32*5/16, you will get 2 nicely curved bits. Been there, done that.
|Thread: Colour matching.|
Take your photo to the man who mixes car paint, he will be able to scan it on his machine and mix up some paint. There are at least 2 in my local town, so you shouldn't struggle to find one
|Thread: Making a miniature leaf spring.|
Retracting dog leads also contain a lot of spring steel. Eventually the end breaks off, but the rest of it is useable
|Thread: Imperial Fasteners|
I just quoted what I read on lathes.co.uk
Mk1 was superceded by mk2 in 1948, bit earlier than 1960's
Edited By duncan webster on 24/12/2019 17:32:21
Edited By duncan webster on 24/12/2019 17:33:00
If Smart and Brown were a UK company it is unlikely they would have used Unified screws. As at least one screw is BA, is it not likely that what looks like 3/16 BSF is actually 2BA. The difference in pitch and dia is very small, but the thread angle is different.
|Thread: Myford bed twist|
With the myford tailstock I found I had to push it against the back shear before locking it. Even with the tailstock gib adjusted, bed wear meant mine was ever so slightly slack as you got towards the chuck, but the back shear front edge (if you get my meaning) doesn't get much wear.
You don't need to buy a test bar, either make one, as Neil suggests, or centre a bit of bar, hold it in the chuck, relieve the middle, then support with tailstock, light cut each end without moving the cross slide (lock it if you can), measure the difference, halve it. If it was big at the tailstock end move the tailstock towards you by this value, or vice versa. Measure the movement with a dti. You need to slacken the tailstock clamp to do this. It's a while since I got rid of my ML7, so reading the manual would be a good idea as I might have forgotten something.
Edited By duncan webster on 23/12/2019 22:24:22
|Thread: 2nd Hand Hearing Aid Reprogramming?|
You can buy 2 standalone satnavs with lifetime free map updates for that sort of money. Ripoff indeed. There is probably someone out there in a shed making a living out of redoing your satnav for £20. This is one reason always avoid built in gismos
|Thread: Steel Boiler Tubes.|
If you're talking fire-tubes and you're going to expand them in rather than weld then you don't want welded seam tube
|Thread: Magazine article series.|
I just tried it with Gadwin PrintScreen on W7, again it's a png so can't upload here, but plenty legible. Especially if you wanted the drawings only, you just copy the bit you want.
By altering the settings on gadwin I could make it a jpg if need be
Edited By duncan webster on 09/12/2019 21:27:07
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