Here is a list of all the postings Bryan Rozier has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lathe motor popping|
I'm considering this upgrade to my Myford.
Everyone I have spoken to about it suggests it's the best thing since sliced Bread!
Three phase motors run with "perfect" balance so you get less vibration and this equates to less noise and a better surface finish.
Unless you are doing very heavy work you can also avoid a lot of belt changing.
|Thread: Cebtec 2A Backlash Adjustment|
Do you need to dis-engage the half nut? I.e. use the rapid traverse?
How about buying a tap from tracey tools (around £15) and threading a cube of bronze and then making up a mounting bracket from something cheaper like mild steel angle. Leave all your mounting holes a little over size to give you some adjustment.
You wouldn't need the slot so shouldn't be too difficult.
Although a cube of MS with Delrin inside might also work.
Did you read the whole thread? Delrin is extremely strong in this application. A number of people have used Delrin in a milling application with no problems.
You can make one out of Delrin (Plastic) see this link :-
|Thread: Motor for a Gingery shaper|
I have a old Atlas 7inch Shaper which the Manufacturer supplied with wither a 1/3HP or 1/2HP motor running at 1740 RPM (no doubt running off 60Hz in the USA).
This Runs a counter shaft and which then has a Pulley with 4 Steps (Giving 4 speeds).
Including the Bull Wheel reduction (Chain drive on the Gingery Shaper) this gives The following Strokes per minute :-
45, 78, 122, 186.
You could equate that to RPM of the Bull wheel so you have some idea of the reduction required.
If you are using a cheap Motor you might want to go a bit higher than what Atlas used but I'd say 1/2Hp would be enough - what power did Dave suggest? I can't see any referenc ein my copy of his book.
Shapers have variable control of the FPS (Feet Per Second) cutting speed by varying the stroke length so I would suggest that Electronic Speed control is very much over the top and not required in your application. Is it possible for you to buy or make a couple of Cone Pulley to give you a range of speeds?
It will be interesting to see how the timing belt stands up to the shock loads of the shaper.
|Thread: Advice needed on Dore-westbury mill please!|
This is a Dore-westbury MK1 which has a fairly small table and probably straight gears in the reduction box.
So it will be noisy in the slower speeds and not a great work envelope.
I like my DW mark 2 for its large work envelope but do any serious milling on my Raglan Vertical as the DW is not very rigid.
It's okay for light Milling so okay for model engineering but will struggle with milling larger pieces....
I'd suggest looking for something with a larger diameter column or preferably a square column.
The one nice thing about these is the Myford nose on the quill so if you have a Myford your tooling can be shared.
|Thread: Inside cylinder casting patterns|
With the outside being mainly rectangular is there any point in making a casting?
Wouldn't it be easier / cheaper to hack it out from the solid?
|Thread: Myford ML7 Tool Clamp Stud|
I wondered that too when I stripped down my cross slide.
I think the three holes can be used to secure the ratchet wheel when using Myfords indexing tool post.
The grub screws just keep crud out of the threads. I have a feeling you can use them to push the Stud out of the Top Slide casting too.
|Thread: Propane torch|
Short answer is no. You use the big burner to provide background heat on the outside of the fire box and use the cyclone burner to solder the stays on the inside. Cyclone pulls in air from near the handle...
Ray you should be able to build a 3.5" boiler with propane only - again using two torches (ideally with two people) for the later work when putting the inner and outer parts together. I used copper rivets for stays and silver soldered everything.
Oxy-acetylene will get you out of a jam so it's handy to have to it but not essential.
I'd strongly recomend step soldering using three different grades of silver solder for peace of mind. I used Silverflo40, Silverflo55 then EasyFlo2.
I used SilverFlo 55 as the mid temperature solder when making my boiler for 3.5" Spencer. Propane is fine for this, though I used two torches a big Sievert 2944 (86kW) to pre-heat and then a Sievert 3525 Cyclone (10.3kW) burner for accurate and close up stuff.
Using a big torch for pre-heat allows you to use normal easyflo flux which will last for most joints with Silverflo55. I only used the higher temp flux where I knew it would be a long job.
|Thread: Workshop Heating|
Insulation definitely helps, dont forget a vapour barrier if you use Rock Wool.
My floor is solid concrete so a couple of (ALDI?) cheapo 3/4" thick rubber mats help to keep the toes warm.
I use a fan heater to warm mine up when I'm in there and keep all the tools covered when not in use.
|Thread: Heart Pacemaker around Machine Tools|
I would think that farctional horse power steel bodied motors would be fine as they will contain most of the magentic field anyway.
This web site suggests using handheld drills are okay and yet they tend not to have any shielding :-
I can't see a 500W plastic drill being any worse than a 750W (1HP) Steel bodied lathe motor with a big chunk of steel (lathe) between you and it....
If it were me (and my life depended on it) I think I'd see if I could find a cheapish magnetic field meter (Gauss Meter) and test what is emitted by the various machine tools.
They seem to range from £30 - £1000
If you have a University nearby maybe you could persuade them to do a EM survey of your home and workshop...
The PMPX starter kit is good value (especially if you buy it off ebay!) but the nozzle will only be good for fairly small parts.
For making a small 3.5inch boiler I used two Sievert torches. One has a 2944 burner for rapid heating. The other has a 3525 Cyclone burner which is great for close up work and inside fireboxes. You will need a extension neck for the 2944 burner as it puts out a massive amount of heat.
Cheaper kits are available from Machine Mart etc but they don't have the heat output required for boiler work. One of the biggest mistakes beginners make is not enough heat.
The Sievert option is not cheap but compared to the cost of a professional boiler maker it's great value.
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