Here is a list of all the postings Douglas Johnston has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Those little screws for carbide inserts...|
It's only the very small ones that might break, the ones that are M3 and above should never break. My biggest problem is losing the tiny ones, they have a tendency to hide when changing inserts.
Just as a matter of interest these small torx screws can be found on ebay for a fraction of the price if bought elsewhere. I bought ten of them a while back for the price of one from "proper" supplier. The quality may not be quite as good but I have found them perfectly acceptable.
|Thread: Slideways oil|
Edited By Douglas Johnston on 20/10/2019 16:00:40
|Thread: Aldi Metal Bandsaw|
My saw also has a slight problem with the vertical alignment of the blade. I was also thinking of a shim under one edge of the base of the tilting fixture to correct this. I notice that the gap between the rollers of the blade guides is a little too wide which probably accounts for the slight misalignment. Unfortunately there is no adjustment possible there.
I assume that you are supposed to release the tension in the blade when the saw is not in use but the lever is quite stiff. I wonder if it does any real harm to keep the blade tensioned when not in use.
Thank goodness I have read this thread. I have just bought the Aldi saw and have only cut some wood so far and was intending cutting some metal this afternoon. Like Pat I always use cutting oil when cutting metal on a bandsaw and would probably have ruined my rubber wheels if I had done so. This should be made very clear in the instruction booklet. Close shave there then, so thanks for pointing that out.
|Thread: Surface Mount Switch|
Thanks Bill, I have just had another go and all is now clear. Computers and me have never been the best of friends.
That's very interesting but I can't seem to replicate it. How do you get the option of text or image? All I can see when I try is the text version. What am I missing?
|Thread: Changing internet providers|
Yes Emgee I am on fibre broadband, but to be honest they have raised my broadband speed twice and I hardly notice any difference. I will do my homework then ring Virgin and see what they can offer. Trouble is moving provider can be a hassle and they may just say:- we don't want you if you are not prepared to pay the full whack.
I changed to Virgin a few years ago and the price was good for the first year but it has shot up every year since. The increases have always been much greater than inflation and I am now paying over £50 a month for internet and landline, with phone calls on top of that, and their not cheap either.
I have been thinking of changing provider but may just ring them up and threaten to move and see if they give me a better deal.
|Thread: Myford ML10 spindle crank trouble|
I use a similar crank on my Speed 10 lathe and find I use it for almost all the threads I cut. Even at the low speeds obtained with the crank, carbide threading inserts work very well. It is a good idea to switch the lathe off at the mains when using the crank in case you accidentally turn the machine on with the crank still in place (yes I have done it but fortunately I use a three phase inverter with a ramped start speed and my quick reactions ! )
Edited By Douglas Johnston on 05/10/2019 15:36:58
|Thread: Aldi Metal Bandsaw|
I also decided to buy one of the Aldi portable bandsaws and must say it seems very well made. I wasn't expecting too much at the price but I have been pleasantly surprised. In particular I expected the base to be pretty flimsy but it is a decent steel pressing and the vice, while rather basic, does seem to work ok.
The blade supplied also seems to be a quality one and at first I thought there was no joint in the blade as none was visible, but on closer inspection an almost invisible join can be detected. Overall it does seem a good buy, I just hope my initial impression is justified after I have used it for a while.
|Thread: Alternative metal sources?|
Old cast iron brake discs provide very nice material as do flywheels. I have used an old flywheel as an anvil for years. When I scrapped my induction hob I collected a mass of electronic stuff and also a couple of huge aluminium heatsinks. Like some others I collect other peoples throwouts. Old stuff is usually better since more modern stuff tends to use thinner metal and less of it.
Thanks for that Ron, nice and simple and seems to work well. I suppose if it rubs off after exposure to cutting oil etc after a while then a quick touch up will cure that.
That is very nice engraving, can I ask what was used to fill the engraving to produce the nice black lines.
|Thread: Screw cutting is over complicated|
It is interesting that nobody in the workshop with Ruby is wearing safety glasses. I suppose that was quite common years ago but it did make me shudder.
|Thread: Stuck oil filter|
That freezer idea sounds interesting Paul, I would never have thought of that. I think I have a can of that lurking somewhere and will give it a try next time. Also chains and ring spanners as mentioned by Charles could provide an answer. Any more ideas out there?
|Thread: PayPal Warning|
That is very disturbing Chris, I must keep an eye on my own PayPal account. You would think it was impossible to do that and PayPal must know who the perpetrator is. I hope they take action against the fraudster, but perhaps that is expecting too much.
|Thread: Stuck oil filter|
Thanks for that idea Sam, I will give that a go next time but rather suspect it might be difficult since there is not much room around the filter to wedge in the stick or metal lever. I wonder what the professionals do when the filters are stuck, probably just brute force at the end of the day.
If I had known there was going to be a problem I would have got one of the special large sockets that fit on to the 14 sided bumpy bit at the end of the filter, but it is too late for that now since that end of the filter is now a bit mangled.
Thanks for all the replies, here are my thoughts,
(1) Too late for those that said don't run the engine. Before I changed the oil I had a good look inside the new filter I had bought as a replacement and was pretty certain that the distortion of the old filter could not have caused any internal damage. The bottom part is just empty space.
(2) The modern filters are definitely made of thinner metal. I also remember older ones being much sturdier.
(3) I did consider the screwdriver through the filter idea,but that creates a problem. What happens if it does not work; you have the car up on ramps and a punctured filter which means you can't run the engine. Apart from that the limited access would make it difficult.
(4) Yes the lack of oil on the rubber seal when fitted seems to create this problem, but you don't expect professionals to omit this during an expensive service.
(5) The only answer is probably to pay up and let another professional gorilla do the next oil change. If I do that I will look for a place that does fixed price services in case they take a while to remove the bashed filter!
ps I will report back in a year after the next oil change If we are all still here!
Edited By Douglas Johnston on 12/09/2019 13:38:16
I thought I would do an oil change on my 4 year old Ford Fiesta now the car is out of warranty. The oil filter is half way up the back of the engine with limited space around it. Got the ramps out and got the car up on them and drained the oil. All going well so far, then tried to remove the oil filter and found that a trained gorilla at the last service had put the filter on.
Try as I might the filter just could not be budged with all the weapons I threw at it. My final attempt was with one of those claw type filter removers that get tighter as you try to turn it. It did not slip but started to distort the casing and threatened to puncture it.
At this point I was well and truly stuck since I could not drive the car having emptied the oil so I did the only possible thing and added the new (expensive ) oil and left the old filter in place.
I wonder how wise this was but since I only do around 4000 miles a year I hope there will be no problem. Does anybody know of a good removal tool or technique for removing bashed filters since I will have to get it off next time.
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