Here is a list of all the postings Douglas Johnston has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Postal Imports ... Notice 143|
I think we will only know how this will work after a few brave souls try buying things from outside the UK and report back. Ebay seems to be saying they will be responsible for collecting VAT, but import duties are another matter.
I will hold back until I see how things are working.
|Thread: A white xmas|
After years of defrosting the freezer I finally bought one that defrosted itself. I have no idea how it works but it is a modern marvel.
|Thread: Message from ARC to our customers in the E.U.|
Brexit Pandemic Getting old Taxman has just given me a refund .
|Thread: using spotting drills for countersinking|
Having spent many a long year getting frustrated by countersink tools that never seem to work well for me, I recently discovered something that I should have realized a long time ago. It started when I needed to make a number of countersunk holes that went deep enough to sink the screw heads about 1mm below the surface.
I had recently bought a set of 90 degree spotting drills from the place I cannot mention lest I be struck down, and realized that they make ideal countersinks. I was using M6 screws which had a maximum head diameter of just under 12mm, so by using a 12mm spotting drill I produced very nice countersunk holes to the correct depth. The cutting was very smooth indeed and much nicer than a conventional countersink bit.
I am probably the last person to realize this use for a spotting drill, but in case not, I thought I would give it a mention.
|Thread: Ball ended handle - how to|
When I built my Quorn grinder many years ago I spent ages making the ball handles. It was a great exercise and the end result was a joy to look at. Over the next few years, however, I replaced most of them with commercial adjustable handles which were much easier to use. I think it is a case of style over substance when it comes to ball handles.
|Thread: grease for instrument control knobs|
I acquired a tube of kilopoise grease years ago and have used it now and again to produce that silky movement you talk about.
|Thread: Gib Screw Locking Methods|
+1 for dowels to locate gibs, it made a huge difference on my Speed 10 lathe. Hex grub screws to replace the standard screws and use some method of eliminating the backlash on the threads of the screws so you get very precise movement of the screws. I used a small dab of hotmelt glue on the threads of the screws to eliminate the backlash but there are other techniques for this. Provided the anti-backlash technique makes the screw movement a little stiff you don't even need locknuts.
|Thread: For the latest in PC fashion! (Anyone here with a Master's Degree?)|
Just because we have used certain terms all our lives and don't think about them as being linked to things like slavery, perhaps we should move away from some of the old terms which clearly cause offence to others.
|Thread: Gone to the great workshop in the sky|
Another idea is to use a local general auction house. My local one has an auction every fortnight and there is always a good selection of tools for sale. I am often very surprised by the high prices people are willing to pay for such stuff. The advantage is that you don't need to know what things are since the public can make their mind up on viewing days before the auction. The downside can be the charges made by the auction house, but on the other hand heavy items don't need to be delivered to a buyer.
|Thread: Adjustable angle plate|
|Thread: Putting the clocks back|
I have a couple of these radio controlled clocks which worked fine for a few years then one of them started to slowly gain about two seconds a month and refused to change time when the clocks changed. I tried moving the clock into various locations and changed the batteries but nothing would make it work properly. On the point of throwing it out I tried one last location on the roof of my outside workshop. Next morning the clock had adjusted itself correctly, but I have to do this every 6 months to keep the right time.
|Thread: Kerr's Minature railway closing|
So sad to read this since I live only a dozen miles from the railway and had many wonderful rides on it as a child. I hope someone buys the track and trains to set up elsewhere so future generations can benefit from it. As if we needed more bad news
|Thread: Threading trouble|
A hand crank is a real asset when threading. I nearly always do it that way, it is much more relaxing than doing it under power. A bit of a pain for long threads, but they can often be done under power. Carbide thread cutting inserts don't seem to mind the slow cutting speed.
|Thread: What cleaning solution?|
Lidl in the UK sell 1 litre tins of universal solvent at a cheap price. I think it is mainly acetone and probably makes a good solvent for hammerite paint since branded hammerite thinners cost an arm and a leg.
|Thread: Where's this rust come from ?|
I store any items like V blocks in individual small plastic containers. It is not a perfect solution but does keep them safe from mechanical damage and rust. The little plastic pots sold in supermarkets for storing food are perfect and not expensive.
|Thread: interest renewed|
|Thread: scraping technique|
Looks like I have been doing things the right way then. I just wondered if there was any special reason why bluing the part rather than the surface plate is advocated at all by some people.
There is some confusion in my mind about the best technique for scraping a flat surface. I have in the past put the blue dye on a surface plate and then carefully moved the object to be tested over the surface plate. On lifting the item off the plate I scrape the spots which have picked up the blue dye.
Other people seem to put the blue dye on the surface to be checked, leaving the surface plate clean, then move the item over the clean surface plate. On lifting the item the scraping takes place on the areas where the dye has been removed.
I suppose both techniques amount to the same thing but is there any reason to use one technique over the other?
|Thread: Myford speed10 / ml10 apron disassembly|
As Clive has said there is not a lot involved in dismantling the carriage. The allen screws are imperial so use the correct key. I dismantle mine every year or two and clean out any swarf that has managed to get trapped under the carriage. I then run a very fine slip stone over the top of the flat bed to remove any minor dings before reassembly. Slideway oil seems to work fine on the bed and leadscrew. I found swarf on the leadscrew was a problem before I fitted a cover to protect it.
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