Member postings for John Hinkley

Back to the gearbox today. Third trial assembly! I'm not sure whether to be pleased or not. I've machined everything so closely to the drawing dimensions that there's no running clearance! Consequently, I've had a bit of "easing" to do. With all the bits except the detents fitted it even looks like the 3D drawings in Atom 3D.

Spacers between the walls will help to stabilise the structure. I think that I will have to try to get some perspex rod by post.

John

Keith,

For a manual, try the U.S. Grizzly site. Their manuals are more comprehensive than those supplied to UK distributors. Some slight differences but the basics are the same. This looks similar to your mill, to me. Others in their range might be more suitable. You decide. Download in pdf on the righthand side of the page or under the "documents" tab.

Manual download

John

Without wishing to pour cold water on the laudable efforts described here, wouldn't it be quicker to make/print some simple clips to attach the transparent sheet to a readily -available baseball hat? Just a thought. Of course, you'd have to teach the younger generation to wear it the right way round!

John

I'll get me coat - and hat.

Having a bit of a break from the engineering side today and taken up camera (phone actually) weilding. I decided that I'd publish a video on YouTube of my workshop and some of the toys I have accumulated for your and other's amusemant and derision!. I don't think Steven Sleilberg need have any worries! I intend adding to this series of one from time to time by presenting workshop projects that I have completed over the years, either in a group if small projects or singly if more complicated.

Anybody interested?

Link to video

It's only the second time in ten years that I've used a video editing program - that's my excuse.

John

Richard,

Glad you've got your taper turning sorted. However, I'd be inclined to investigate why your lathe is turning an (albeit slight-ish) taper of 5 thou over a distance of one inch when just using the carriage? Unless I've gotten the wrong end of that particular stick.

John

Whoops! I seem to be monopolising this thread, so I'll be brief. Second trial assembly successfully completed. Details, if interested, in the album.

Next job to tackle is the gear selector mechanism, Now that should be fun!

John

Chris TT,

If you want to while away an hour or two, head on over to Shadon HKW on YouTube and have a look at his series of videos describing the design and build of the heat treat oven he has built. Admittedly, he is making them for sale, but you might get a few useful ideas from his experiences. No.1 video starts here :

Heat treat oven

He is using a refractory brick to line the oven, but it's some while since I viewed the videos and I can't remember exactly what is specification is. It's easily cut - he says with a bread knife, even - and seems quite stable once installed.

Rather than use a lid, his design is a heated box with a hinged door on the front, which seems an eminently sensible solution to me and I would have thought gives easier access to the hot components, too.

John

Here's another thread:

Postings pictures and creating an album

John

Too late to edit the above post, I've entered the description on the iPad.

John

Having had the mounting plates for my gearbox project waterjet cut, I've been busy drilling and boring all the holes in them, ready for a trial assembly. Here's the result :

VERY annoyingly, an error has crept into one of my drawings and the reverse gear idler mounting hole is in the wrong place. I can't for the life of me understand how. It all fits perfectly in CAD 2D and 3D! I'm off to put my lateral thinking hat on so that I can hopefully retrieve the situation.

I tried to add a desription to the album, but I get an error message in a previous picture telling me to use the correct format! Very strange. Tried deleting the picture and reloading, but it won't let me do that, either.

John

Bill (Chugg),

That's a very comprehensive parts list but about the only thing it doesn't show is the air filter! It does, however, list an air filter, connecting tube, sheild and flter adaptor, all of which seem to me to chime with the drawing I posted in my previous posting - if you use a bit of creative thinking.

s there not some sort of James scooter club somewhere that the OP could consult?

John

Plenty of pictures of James motorcycles on the 'net, amost all showing a "pancake" style filter - where one is fitted. The only image of a scooter that I could find is this one:

It's not very good quality but if you zoom in, it seems to show a perforated box-like structure which could be the air filter alongside the carburettor. Could this be the style and form for which you are searching?

John

Got the Perspex back from the waterjet cutters today and made a start on drilling and boring the holes. Due to the odd shape I had to do some lateral thinking and creative positioning of a number of parallels and the jaws of the ARC vesatile vice to get the workpiece within the working envelope of both the mill and DRO. Final result is shown below with the wooden pattern held to check out the positioning.

Once that checked out OK, I placed the cut perspex in its stead and centred up on the top (left) bearing recess. Using that position as the reference point I changed the DRO readings to coincide with the coordinates on the drawing. I'm happy to say everything is working out well.

I'll have a go at the other "walls" tomorrow.

By the way, I butchered an old digital cakiper as per Readers Tips in MEW 292 to obtain a couple of thin parallels, visible in the second photo and they work brilliantly! Good tip!

John

Further to my previous post about the over-70s possibly being asked to self-isolate, the recommended spacing between individuals is 2metres or 6 feet - though it doesn't say whether that's horizontal or vertical!

John

(keep it light, lads)

One crumb of comfort - of sorts - this morning. "They" are considering asking all over 70 year-olds to self isolate for four months "to protect themselves". Think of the number of models you could make with four months uninterrupted access to the workshop! Perhaps we could aspire to the sort of production figures Jason Bellamy attains?

John

If your lathe is small enough to warrant an MT1 in the spindle, I would personally opt for an ER11 collet chuck with MT1 shank. Like this:

Link to ER11 chuck.

That way you can use cutters up to 7mm diameter without fear of overstressing the lathe. Anything bigger and you will be tempted to take deeper or more aggressive cuts which exceeds the equipment's capacity.

John

Edited for spelling!

Edited By John Hinkley on 14/03/2020 19:52:33

Can I just reiterate that it wasn't me that bought the Cleveland drills - it was the youTuber, Doubleboost. I just did a search and Cromwell's offering was one of the first to come up. Although I have personally never used this firm, I am lead to believe from various posts on this and other sites that they have a reputation for supplying quality goods. I have to say I was amazed at the price quoted for the drills. If I was in the market for drills I would be inclined to buy some just to try them out.

John

For what it's worth, John Mills, aka Doubleboost on youTube, has bought a cople of sets of Cleveland drill bits which he reckons are the dogs danglies (he calls them something different). I see Cromwell are selling them at £5.99 a pop for 19 drills from 1 to 10mm in 0.5mm increments. A bit cheaper than the Dormer offerings! Might be worth a punt?

Link to Cromwells

John

Edited By John Hinkley on 09/03/2020 17:01:38

Welcome, Ian. This could be your lucky day - there's a Raglan 5" lathe for sale on this site!

Link to Raglan lathe

Not a lot of detail, but a PM to the seller, Shelley, should elicit more information.

John

Searching for a firm to do the cutting for me, I read in MEW 291, the article by Mark Noel on various cutting techniques. He recommended a company in Nantwich that had done some work for him with good results. I went to the web site referenced at the end of the article, only to find that it is a similarly named company but in Lyme Regis, Dorset. A Google search soon found the correct address:

Precision Waterjet Ltd

I have emailed them with my request and await their reply. Incidentally, I approached a local(ish) firm in Sheffield, but they weren't interested, preferring, quite reasonably, to concentrate on industrial size orders.

I still have in my arsenal, the kind offers of assistance from Adam and Shaun above, of course. I'll wait to see the response from Precision Waterjet.

As an aside, I've also ordered a piece of A4-size clear acrylic to use as a base instead of wood, intending to place a mirror underneath that to further enhance the view of the workings. At least, that's the idea. I'll see what it looks like when (if) it's ever finished.

John