Member postings for John Hinkley

Phil,

My go to program for gears is GearDXF, available free from here:

GearDXF download

As Jason says, there's very little difference between 1.5MOD and 16DP. I just input figures for a 40 tooth gear and the difference in diametral pitch is 0.020 inches. If you have play around with the specifications of the gears you require, it will allow you to see the differences and make your selection of suitable gears easier to visualise.

John

Richard,

I haven't personally, but this series of videos are a good way to pass some time

Stefan Gotteswinter's sine bars

It's easy to get hooked on his videos and I've lost a lot of workshop time doing just that.

John

George,

The site I think you're after is:

Link

You will have to supply a dxf file of the part you want cut and the owner will tell you whether your requirements are possible. I have used this service and found them excellent to deal with and very reasonably priced.

John

It's been a while and slow progress, but progress it is .....

All the gear blanks for my 5-speed transaxle gearbox had been made, as have the input and ouput shafts, gear hubs and spacers. The output gears need the dogs machining and of course there is going to be a monumental gear cutting session coming up. I've been waiting until all the gear blanks were finished until setting up the rotary table. I had to alter the ratio of 3rd gear slightly as I can't obtain a 28 tooth pattern with my rotary table set up but it made little difference overall. Below are a couple of pictures from the album:

The gear internals so far, with some finishing still to do:

The same parts, loosely assembled. To give some idea of scale, the shafts are 201mm in length.

I am awaiting delivery of some 10mm thick perspex sheet to use as the casing faces for display of the finished workings. I'll post further pictures of progress later. Much later.

John

Douglas,

Whatever you do, don't ignore the warning! I did - twice and the next time I switched it on, the hard drive failed. In some respects it wasn't a problem in that it wasn't the main drive which held the operating system and program files, but was the second drive which had all my engineering and CAD files, etc going back five years or more. All lost. I had some backed up on a couple of USB sticks, but by no means all. A local computer data retrieval company could only recover a couple of text files and a photograph, though they did suggest a firm that does work for the "boys in blue" That would cost about £400, they reckoned.. I reckoned I'd just have to learn the lesson and keep my cash in my pocket. Needless to say, I now backup regularly to an external drive.

I've also bought a new-to-me iMac with Windows 10 and dual-boot capability, 1TB hard drive, loads of memory and a decent video card and 27" screen. Whipped the data hard drive out of the old computer and housed it in a separate enclosure. Job done - 'til the next time.

Here, if you are interested.

Good luck,

John

Edited By John Hinkley on 03/11/2019 16:50:57

Edited By John Hinkley on 03/11/2019 16:51:54

Martyn,

You might want to consider that the originals were undoubtedly to Imperial measurements, not metric, so 1" x 7/16" IDx 1/2" OD? Nearest I can find to these dimensions is:

Oilite bearing

John

Edited By John Hinkley on 25/10/2019 19:49:57

I've been using a Stevenson's sharpening fixture of late and this uses an angle of 2°. If it was good enough for him, it's good enough for me and gives perfectly acceptable results.

Have a look here

John

Dave,

Don't blame John Haines. That was my contribution in response to Trevor's original request as.nobody had come up with a diagram specifically for his machine.

John Hinkley

It's working OK on my setup, O.M. That's Windows 10 + Firefox 69.0.3.

John

Judging from pictures only, the Warco 1224 bears a distinctresemblance to the Grizzly G4002 lathe. If you have no luck with Warco have a look at this, taken from the Grizzly manual. (Obviously there are differences linked to the U.S. 110V supply and there is also a manual for models produced prior to 03/14.)

John

That's a pretty ambitious project, Lee. I wish you the best of luck. I know there are Austin Seven owners on the forum who might be able to help you out with any queries. I owned a 1934 Austin 7 Ruby in my youth and was, at one time a member of the 750MC. I have a copy of their "Design for competition" book on my bookshelf, which may contain a few gems.

I have a vague recollection of seeing the germ of a build thread of an A7 engine, on another forum, somewhere. It was a couple of years ago but it could have been on HMEM or Model Engine Maker.

Jason Bellamy will probably be able to give you chapter and verse.

I'll be interested to follow your progress.

Oh, and welcome to the forum!

John

I knew I'd seen it! Have a look Here

Edited By John Hinkley on 17/10/2019 10:11:02

Emgee and Ian P,

Rest assured, I don't think it achieves anything like 10k rpm! Certainly not when I have used it. In fact it spends 99% of its time languishing on a shelf. I have better and more equipment to do those jobs, acquired in the intervening years. I was quite pleased with the two-speed arrangement, though.

John

One of my first tool builds was of very similar design - I didn't even consider covering the belt drive, however! The spindle was a home-brewed ER25 affair running in cheap ball races. The toothed belt is tensioned by the ball race jockey wheel mounted in a slot for adjustment and the driving pulley and idler (bottom left in the picture) are interchangeable to give high and low speed ranges. It's (under) powered by a sewing machine motor but it revs to 10,000 rpm - it says on the box!  Vibration is a bit of a problem and I wouldn't trust it to do any accurate grinding but if fitted with a proper spindle it might pass muster. Still, like I said, it was one of my first projects. I've learnt a lot in the five years since then.

John

Edited (twice) for sloppy typing.

Edited By John Hinkley on 16/10/2019 20:06:15

Edited By John Hinkley on 16/10/2019 20:08:31

Like many on this forum, I was educated in the feet and inches era, when "times tables" were learnt by rote and were handily available on the back cover of our exercise books, along with conversions of rods, poles and perches. When we moved to France, I had to decide whether to make my workshop metric or stay Imperial. I chose metric. A couple of year ago, and now back in the UK, I purchased a Worden T & C grinder kit from Hemingway and was surprised to see that the drawings contained a mix of Imperial and metric, fractions and decimal. I decided to convert it all to metric and redrew all the drawings. It took a long, long, time. I offered them to Hemingway, but they declined the offer. Sadly, I lost the lot in "the big hard drive crash of 2018". I haven't had the urge to do them again.

John

I'd be wary of getting a wedge-type QCTP that is too big for your equipment. My lathe has slightly larger capacity than the OP's, but I deliberately went for a size 000 wedgie from Arc. Having previously had a four-way (supplied with the lathe) and then a Dickson type, I am glad I eventually settled on the wedge-type. I use a mixture of HSS and insert tipped tooling and have built up a selection of holders for my most-used tooling, though I have to admit, I've spread the cost over a fair period. To be honest, I don't think my lathe has sufficient power at speed to get the best from carbide inserts, but I persevere and generally manage to get acceptable results.

The Arc page for the size 000 states that it is suitable for a mini-lathe and a Myford, so will presumably fit Brian's lathe easily, albeit with a possible modification to the mounting stud. At the same time as I fitted the new toolpost, I incorporated the Arc-supplied needle roller thrust bearing modification, which I consider worthwhile.

Link to Arc

As has been said above, whatever suits you is best. Only you can decide how deep your pockets are, compared to the length of your arms.

John

I don't know what size Atlas lathe you have, but lathes.co.uk give the spindle thread size for the 10" lathe as 1½ x 8 tpi NF, so that's a 60° angle. I would have thought that they will have a standard thread form across the range, wouldn't they?

John

That worked, Jason. Here's the result, at 50% translucency:

I'll stop posting for the moment. I feel I've monopolised this thread for long enough!

John

And just to keep you up to date, the bronze bar has been ordered and will be in my eager hands before too long, I hope.

John

Jason,

I did try to get a picture to give the effect you are suggesting, utilising the "shaded and all edges " view facility, but the internals are so complicated, it looks a real mess. Having thought about it while typing this, I'll try a "normal" view of the guts and a transparent view of the casing and attempt to combine the two. If it works, I'll post it here.

John

I have taken on board all the leads and suggestions and have decided on the M-Machine metals route, using ½" x 2" bronze bar. By also reducing the angular bearing arc to 120°, I can further reduce the waste material. I don't want to go any less, for aesthetic reasons. It just doesn't "look right".

Thanks, once again, for everybody's input. I think we can consider the matter closed.

John