Here is a list of all the postings Dennis Pataki has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Call for Classified Ads for MEW|
May I please ask that the seller's email also be included in their post?
Those of us not in the UK may be interested, but would prefer to communicate in writing.
|Thread: What coating/grease for long term tool storage|
Here in the USA we have an aerosol product called LPS 3 Premier Rust Inhibitor. When applied, it resembles penetrating oil, but the carrier is volatile, which evaporates to leave a wax like coating. It seems to resemble some of the spray on motorcycle chain lubes I have seen.
Back when I was working for my former employer, we had a large lathe sent out for reconditioning and bed regrinding. The company doing doing the work transported machines on an open flat bed trailer. The owner told us he used to cover the machines with a tarpaulin, but if it rained they got wet anyway and rusted. He went on to say he now just sprays down the machine all over with LPS 3 and doesn't have these problems any more.
|Thread: Drilling cast iron - where did I go wrong?|
Split point drills work best when guided with a hardened drill guide bushing, the type used in fixtures for production drilling work. They are also useful after the drill has gone through the spotting the BS3 or similar center drill produced.
The difference in angles between the 135* split point drill and the 60* center drill can cause some wandering as others suggest.
Cast iron can be delightful or terrible to machine. Sometimes chills occur in the casting if it was not allowed to slowly cool in the mold, or if questionable quality material was used. These chilled hard spots can cause all kinds of machining problems.
|Thread: Threading 1/8 stainless steel|
I expect you will have the same results using a collet. At least, that was my experience.
I would recommend you use a Jacobs type chuck. I have one that threads directly onto my spindle, and that's what I use when trying to thread rod or bar stock using a die. It holds much tighter than my 3 jaw, 4 jaw, or collets.
You may need to rig up some way to hold the Jacobs chuck. Perhaps threaded onto a straight shank, held in the 4 Jaw. You may need to drill a clearance hole through the shank if threading the ends of long rod.
Hope this is helpful.
|Thread: ML7 feed screw wear|
Keep in mind that a worn feed screw will affect the accuracy of movement as shown on the graduated dial. This is most noticeable over a long distance of movement due to wear differences in the screw threads.
A worn nut will only affect the backlash due to excess clearance between the screw and nut.
|Thread: DIY Bed Gap|
To modify your lathe for more swing, you might consider fabricating an auxiliary spindle pedestal with it's centerline higher than that of your lathe's spindle.
This auxiliary spindle would be mounted on it's own bearings, it's pedestal be bolted to the lathe's bed, and be driven from the lathe's spindle via belt, gears, or roller chain.
You would have to set your cutting tool to a greater height to match the auxiliary spindle.
Accurate alignment would be necessary to avoid turning, boring, or facing tapers, although this might be an easy way to cut tapers if they are needed.
|Thread: How much can a chuck effect finish?|
I assume yours is a type of lathe where the self act carriage feed is provided using the half nuts and lead screw.
If so, you might check for a bent lead screw. In such an instance, a bent lead screw will impart an oscillating motion to the carriage, causing cutting tool movements that would not occur if the lead screw were straight.
|Thread: myford leadscrew|
If it's fitted with an 8 TPI lead screw, and I expect it is, the graduated hand wheel will need 125 divisions for each division to show .001" of carriage travel.
So, yes, the last division before the zero would be a five.
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