Here is a list of all the postings Falco has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
Hi Neil, I have had a look and that is just what I need.
Many thanks for your help and quick reply. Much appreciated!.
I'm tidying up a Moto Morini 250 twin at the moment. There is a small indicator/warning light bulb missing and I have been unable to find a supplier. The bulb is one of the wedge or capless ones but is smaller than the usual ones. It is only 5.25mm diam. and overall length is 18.75mm. The actual bulbous part is 11.5mm long.
It is 6Volt.
Does anyone know a supplier?
|Thread: Snail Problems|
We had a serious problem with slugs and snails a few years back. We tried beer traps etc etc. No success. I happened to be in the garden one damp night late with a flashlight. If you haven't done you should! All the big slugs are out and some of them are up to 6 inches long! Hundreds of them! So, a new approach was needed. I regularly went out before bedtime with my torch and a well sharpened bread knife. One stroke each! There were no repeat offenders and you caught the ones that were doing the damage.
The thrushes woke up each morning to ready served breakfast and loved it. After two seasons there was a big drop in large breeding snails/ slugs to be seen. This year there is only the occasional one to be seen. OK not PC or for discussion in polite circles but effective.
|Thread: Does a 1600rpm bantam have a single v belt?|
Mine has a single belt also. 1967 model if memory serves me right. J
|Thread: Modern efficiency !!!!!!!!!|
I can sympathise with your plight. I know plenty who have been similarly caught. Not much encouragement to being a "sensible " driver.
As George says above, it really does not take a lot to keep it clear. I do a fortnightly blast in 3rd gear for a few miles well up in the rev range, but staying out of lunatic territory. Say 6 - 6500rpm on a car redlined at 8000rpm, but you must keep the revs up there steadily for 5mins at least and it is best done when the engine has already warmed up.
You may burn a little bit of fuel but nothing like you'll pay out if you don't. Not trying to teach anyone how to suck eggs here, but it has worked well for me.
|Thread: Colchester Bantam Lathe|
Sandy, if and when you get fixed up with a bed-stop and if you want to adjust the clutch to trip reliably I may be able to help with the relevant info.
I'm using a home made stop and yes it needs to be tight if the bedways are lubricated. I'd be keen to see dimensions of the Colchester stop.
Trevor, I have to agree on the Bantam. Probably the ideal smaller, rock-solid lathe for the home workshop.
|Thread: Perfectly ground Twist Drills every time.|
I found the same problem on my jig. It was endlessly fiddly trying to set the lip stop while keeping the cutting edge vertical. I tried lots of times on different sizes of drills and every time the setting had to be changed. I gave up in the end, removed the stop and now I eyeball it to vertical on the first edge. I use Harold Hall's 180deg. attachment to get the two lips the same. Results are generally very acceptable.
One other problem contributes to poor results with these jigs. It fooled me for quite awhile! I found that the lock-down mechanism on the cradle could lock the drill slightly to the side and not exactly in the V of the cradle. This naturally led to poor results. This is not always obvious without actually looking down the length of the V before grinding. Graham's new V insert and the two clamps should eliminate this problem.
We are lucky to have Neil as an enlightened Moderator on the forum.
I am delighted Graham Meek’s thread is not going to be locked. It really is too bad that someone who has gone to the trouble to research a well -known problem and tried to offer a solution to fellow model engineers would feel his efforts so slighted as to want to withdraw his work. And why? All because he works to a high standard! I would have thought that working to a high standard was the very essence of model engineering.
As a beginner I avidly study projects like Graham’s. Some of them are indeed beyond my skill level at the minute but that only spurs me on. I can try some bits of projects and as a result can do a lot more today than I could this time last year. There are skills like gear-cutting that I may never get to but in the projects that I can attempt, I would rather aim at the levels that Graham Meek exhibits in his work than settle for mediocrity. I suspect that I am not alone in this.
Graham, I have followed this thread with great interest because I have tried to improve a similar sharpening jig myself with fair success. The offset mechanism you suggested was new to me. One question if I may? The offset you give would depend on the measurements of the eccentric adjuster. You did not add the measurements of this piece to the drawing you posted. Any chance that you could give them?
Thanks for a most interesting post
Edited By Falco on 13/05/2014 00:20:20
|Thread: Drill grinding jig design|
Not wishing to hijack the thread but I have been struggling to come up with a jig to sharpen a bunch of larger drills ie. 20 - 38mm that I have been given.
Has anyone found a simple jig to deal with these sizes on a bench grinder? I don't have anything fancier! I have found a few designs, one in MEW way back but when I tried to print it out the quality of download was so crap I found it hard to read.
Any suggestions please? PM would be great, if you feel this is OT.
I have the silver /grey version of the above jig. It has the angled stem.
After initial fettling it now does a very acceptable job on drills from 3mm to about a max of 19mm. I found the following mods turned it into a very useful addition to the workshop.
I first made Harold Hall's 180 deg. drill holder modification and I can vouch for its effectiveness. The original sliding lip stop on the jig does not give repeatable results and causes only frustration.
Secondly I made a sliding base with a fine screw-in feed. A version of this was shown in MEW some time back. Well worth the effort!
The main stem is held in a v-slot by a piece of rubbery metal and two screws. Find a piece of flat spring in your scrap box to replace the original metal retainer. I also ran an end-mill down the vee and converted it into a half round and it gave the stem a much snugger fit. It does not wobble now.
I lengthened the square bar in the body of the jig by welding a similar sized square bar from a door lock to it. That greatly increase the capacity of the jig.
On this jig it is crucial to have the cutting lip of the drill vertical in the holder for sharpening. Once set, Harold's 180 deg. attachment takes care of the second lip.
As regards the length of drill protruding from the jig, the theory is heavy going, but I have got very good results by having the drill protrude the same amount as the diameter of the drill being sharpened, ie. 6mm for a 6mm drill or 12mm for a 12mm drill. (You could experiment with slightly less to get a smaller relief angle.)
Lastly, whenever I do get it wrong, it usually comes down to one of three user errors. 1. Drill lip not set vertical. 2. Drill not snugly seated in the V of the jig. 3. Drill protruding too much/little.
Edited By Falco on 23/04/2014 22:46:48
|Thread: New Mill|
To remove the head, wind it all the way down to rest on a timber block on the table. You can then loosen the bolts slightly, rotate it, rest it on it's side, remove the bolts and lift it off. It is a heavy lump on its own so have a clear passage to the bench.
BTW you don't have a bike lift that you could use to raise it on to the plinth?
Nice looking Norton Steve!
I have the same mill, bought from Amadeal several years ago. It has given good service and to date no real problems. I bought a spare set of plastic gears for the head as I read in several places that they can strip under heavy pressure. I'm still on the original set despite a few beginner's mistakes.
I found the construction to be simple, solid and functional. I would concur with the advice that you strip, clean and reassemble as there can be a lot of crud hidden inside from manufacture. The table works a whole lot smoother if you thoroughly clean and re-grease the lead-screws. I found that there was no means of controlling end-float on these but it was not excessive from new. I tried putting a slit in the nut and a screw to adjust it but it was only partly successful as it is nearly impossible to adjust when the whole thing is reassembled.
There was to my mind excess sloppiness in the fine feed mechanism on the head. I suggest you check yours in the early stages to satisfy yourself that it is acceptable.
I fitted a down-feed stop to mine I find it useful even with the digital readout on the spindle.
Carl's advice on Harold Hall's book is worth heeding. I found the no.1 requirement was clamping and holding accessories and he has useful plans for some of those.
Also make sure it is solidly bolted down to a good heavy bench. It makes quite a difference to smoothing out vibration under working loads........and ....count fingers before and after use.
Good luck with the mill.
|Thread: Re-starting after a number off years|
That's a fine job you've done on the house. Not sure about the workshop though. Way too neat and tidy. You couldn't possibly work in there. Time you got a bit of swarf on the floor.
Seriously, I hope you enjoy many happy evenings in there.
|Thread: Identify an unmarked bottle of acid|
Since acid burns have no great appeal I'll reluctantly go with dilution or neutralization. It will leave me feeling a bit defeated though because I will learn little from the exercise.
I wish my chemistry teacher had been a little like Danny M's. I would have lapped it up and learned a lot more! Anything with a whiff of danger surely does grab the attention. What a shame that science and maths are not taught with a bit more imagination in school, but that is another debate.
Thanks for all the good advice. Much appreciated.
You have made me think twice about exploring my brown bottle!
I don't actually know if it is acid, now that the question has been put to me. There is no sign of rusting in the vicinity and I have not opened it in years. Having read the posts I may do so carefully and have a smell but after that ....well, old sayings about curiosity and cats or no-go areas for angels treading spring to mind.
It can be difficult for the terminally curious to leave things alone but Bob, your point about purchasing a small amount of a KNOWN substance if/when needed perfect sense. As I have no immediate use in mind and there were few suggestions of what could be done with it, I agree my workshop might be a safer place if I can neutralise it or otherwise dispose of it.
Thank you all for your good advice. I learned a lot from the replies.
Being a hoarder, I have a large brown bottle of acid that came out of a school lab a good few years ago hidden in a dark place under my bench. It's most likely either Sulphuric or Hydrochloric since they generally didn't deal with anything more lethal on the school curriculum.
The problem is that there's no marking on the bottle, So I don't know which it might be.
Is there any easy way to test it. Maybe some members with a good chemical knowledge could advise please?
And then, when/if I do identify it, what would it be useful for in the workshop?
|Thread: Calculating volume in metric|
The following was given to me as an explanation of how the metric system ties together in the practical world.
It may help anyone not using to it to visualise the connection between length , volume and weight in the metric system.
The weight measurement is correct only if the contents are water.
A little cube box with sides 1 x1 x1cm. will hold 1ml. of water. The water contents, (excluding the weight of the actual box), will weigh 1 gram. (Think sugar lump)
A cube with sides of 10x10x10cm. will hold 1000 ml. (1 litre), and will weigh 1000 grams or 1 kilogram.(kg). (Think milk carton)
A cube with sides of 100x100x100cm, (ie. 1x1x1metre) will hold 1,000,000ml, or 1000 litres and the water contained will weigh 1,000,000 grams, or 1000kg or 1 tonne, (Think of the builders sand bags mentioned by MichaelG )
|Thread: What lathe to get?|
Since nobody so far has given info on the Bantam I'll pitch in with my experience on a 1979 1600 model (metric).
The Bantam was built to the same standards supposedly as the larger industrial Colchesters. It is a very solid, well built and relatively compact machine. It has power feed on both directions. The gearbox makes for convenient setup for screwcutting. The bore on the spindle is generous on a machine of its size. It is easy and straightforward to use. Mine is a 3phase ex-college machine and is run off a converter and mains household voltage. I've had no problems on this setup. There are plenty parts/accessories available yet for it. My best buy accessory yet was a rear mounted parting tool holder specifically produced for the Bantam by RDG (usual disclaimer). It comes with a small slotted base that can be used to fasten work on the cross slide also and costs c. £65 for base, tool and rear toolpost. Tool is 26mm and uses 3mm inserts. Works very well.
That brings me to the only fault I can find with the Bantam, ie. it has a plain rather than a slotted cross slide. Slotted slides are available but cost £275 or thereabouts. Apart from that it does anything I ask of it with no fuss.
Tail stock is MT3 so plenty drills etc. available for that. All in all a competent medium capacity lathe that will give good service.
|Thread: Tools from Aldi|
Thank you for posting the link.
That indeed is the saw and unfortunately I have already tried the contacts given but the results were as I have outlined earlier. I have tried their website and their customer care numbers in both England and Ireland.
Pity I don't have a bit of German. Maybe I should get on to the HQ!
That's an interesting article Lofty, thank you.
To be fair to the store (Aldi) the saw was indeed a very good one. The damaged part was my own fault so I never expected to have it repaired by the company. It was out of guarantee also.
What annoyed me really was the fact that I was left with a saw that was perfect apart from one damaged part which I could easily have replaced .....if I could get it. And that was the problem. The company would not, or could not, tell me who the manufacturer was. As it is now the saw is just scrap.
My reason for bringing it up in the first place was to alert owners to the fact that if their bought machines/tools might in the future need parts eg. plastic gears, that could wear out, they might think of sourcing the spares before the guarantee runs out and the seller is no longer dealing with the product.
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