Here is a list of all the postings AJS has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tool Shapening|
I wonder, do those who do some of the grinding on the side of the wheel also dress it on the side?
|Thread: Identifying Steel types.|
Parker Steel Catalogue gives the following colour identifier markings for steel.
EN3B/EN32 080A15 Blue
EN1A F/C 230M07 Green
EN1A Leaded 230M07Pb Magenta
EN8DM 212A42 Orange
EN8 080M40 Yellow
EN16T 605M36T White
EN24T 817M40T Brown
|Thread: The Best of Model Engineer Volume 3 Now available|
Haven't seen a copy in our local W H Smith yet!
|Thread: French barrel clock|
The downside of winding clock, or for that matter watch mainsprings, in and out by hand is that they can end up out of flat. This means that the edges of the coils then rub on the ends of the barrel causing possible loss of power.
Another aspect of reassembling the clock is that of esuring that the sriike train wheel teeth are correctly meshed. When the strike train is at rest, the bell hammer should nor be lifted by the pin or star wheel.
Also, the warning wheel should have around half a turn of rotation before being arrested by the warning lever, prior to being released to strike at the hour. On some of these French drum movements, a wheel tooth space is marked with a small dot and the matching pinion tooth has a corner chamfered to aid the correct setting up.
|Thread: Conversion Chart|
Myford produce a wall chart which is quite comprehensive and available from several sources which a search will produce. It has a wipe clean surface.
|Thread: Late digital issues|
I can see them all OK
|Thread: John Wilding Weight driven alarm clock|
Clocks with escapements such as this one uses are very dependant on the driving weight. This means if the weight is increased the clock will tend to run much faster.The effect of lightning the jockey weight will cause this effect. Also the weights on the folio bar should be the correct weight and the beats per minute may be changed by moving them in or out.
When the clock has stopped try gently moving each wheel in turn, starting at the escape wheel,and moving down the train, to discover where the loss of power occurs. It is possible that one particular combination of wheel and pinion tooth.is causing the stoppage.
let us know how you get on.
|Thread: Metric sizing on an imperial lathe|
I think I should have used the term "cut" rather than "feed"
I have been turning some metric sized parts on an imperial lathe (S7) with the attendant difficulty in converting imperial to metric when putting on the feed.
In a Eureka moment I thought it may be possible to angle the top slide such that when I put on say 0.1inch feed (one turn of the handle on the top slide) it would reduce the work dia by 1mm. (0.5mm infeed) Some trigonometry showed that if I angled the top slide by 11.35 degrees from parallel the desired result should be achieved, and it was!
For those like me without digital readout this may be a help.
|Thread: Harrison Electrical problem|
Hi Dave C
If it the same as the Harrison Lathe I am familiar with the lamp voltage is 50v. If you still have the old lamp the voltage may be printed on it, worth a check.
|Thread: whats wrong with my thread/screwcutting|
It looks like a left hand thread from your photo. Were you cutting from right to left, that is toward the chuck? or from left to right?
|Thread: Metal work at schools|
To give it its grand title now, cooking is Food Technology. I hope he is doing some cooking rather than writing about it!
I am a technician in a 6th form college now, having in my apprentice days 50+ years ago followed the toolmaking/general engineering path.
In my experience, teachers now in practical subjects are not trained in metal work at all, in fact newer teachers have very little practical knowledge of woodwork either. They come out of teacher training college with a degree which is fine, and may well be able to teach the theory necessary for their students to pass appropriate exams. However, they have not trained in the practical side of the subjects to any extent and rely on us technicians to fill in the gaps.
Maybe that is fine but we are a rarer breed I fear, (69 next week), and when we have gone so will a lot of skills which are not taught any more, but it seems are still required.
Alan (ex I Eng)
|Thread: Things we should not do|
When undoing chucks, or loosening nuts with a spanner, always look to see what you are going to cut your knuckles on first!
I find it best to apply controlled blows with the palm of my hand to the chuck key or spanner so that when the chuck/nut frees it does so in a controlled manner and my knuckles stay intact.
Secondly, when using a screwdriver, do not hold the part to be worked on in the hand in such a way that if the screwdriver slips the blade will do youself injury. It seems obvious especially when you're looking in the first aid cabinet for a plaster!
|Thread: drilling paper|
The commercial paper drill i've used consists of a hollow tube sharpened at an angle at the business end, driven by a small electric motor. In use the circular cutouts travel up the tube and are collected at the top.
I would think it possible to use a similiar setup in a bench drill provided that the cutouts could be removed from time to time
|Thread: Help with making small counterbores|
Thank you Martin Terry and Ramon for your prompt replies.
I made a two flute piloted cutter (before asking for help) but the cutting action was not very good and one of the cutting edges broke.
I quite lile the D bit solution but the work will need to be accurately centered on the clearance hole before maching.
Ramon. When filing the teeth on your silver steel cutters do you angle the file towards the drilled end, or do you file straight across. I' thinking that would create the wrong rake angles. i.e. straight across.
If all else fails I'll resharpen a twist drill as suggested by Martin.
I am partway through making the small boring tool from Hemingway and am in need of a counterbore for 4BA cap head screws.
My attempt at making one has been unsuccessful so I wondered if anyone could help me with a fool proof method please. The dia. of the screwhead is approx 0.22 inches.
|Thread: Readers' Workshop Special|
I like others have been unable to obtain a copy of Readers' Workshops from Smiths, although they have copies of ME and MEW.
I have now ordered a copy from My Hobby Store but was dissapointed to have to pay £2.45 postage which is almost half the cost of the publication.
I subscribe to ME & MEW and get a discount on the cover price and get it delivered to my door for no extra charge.
Would it not be possible to subscribe to "specials" and obtain them on similar terms to MW & MEW?
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