Here is a list of all the postings Jeff Dayman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Can you guess what this object is?|
Looks like the Pope's hat to me
|Thread: Tufnol - cylinder block?|
Forget Tufnol for cyl block - just too many issues. You will be fighting that crap all the way. Get a nice piece of continuous-cast cast iron (Meehanite and Durabar are good brands) and make a great running trouble free cylinder.
Just my $0.02 worth. Ready for the onslaught of misguided Tufnol fans saying the opposite. Life is too short, and there are too many FAR better engineering plastics and metals, to fool around with Tufnol in 2020.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 06/06/2020 00:10:03
South Bend Corp's "How to run a lathe" book has been printed and reprinted many times starting I think in the 1930's but has a huge amount of useful info for anyone learning the metal lathe. +1 on the Sparey book being great also.
|Thread: Yorkshire Steam Wagon Drawings ???|
You might check into a design mentioned by John Haining in his "Countrymans' Steam" book from the 1980's. He describes a steel "Suffolk" boiler which outwardly looks like a Yorkshire wagon boiler but is much simpler internally. He also mentioned several improvements to the design by various people to ease internal cleaning.
|Thread: Low cost forge blower|
Was disappointed in the lack of dowel pins locating the blower housing to the ground. Also the blower shaft was clearly out of round by at least .030".
I'm joking of course, this guy does amazing things in technology with literally nothing. It's a treat to see what he achieves.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 02/06/2020 14:39:37
|Thread: Brush motor repair|
resistance weld it- that's probably how it was made in the first place
BTW Dyson=junk+marketing IMHO
|Thread: garden tractor wheel lug nuts and studs|
ajax you are grossly overthinking this job. This is a utility machine, not a space vehicle. Get yourself a length of 1/2"-13 UNC threaded rod / studding, cut some studs off it leaving 1/4" extra length each side from the total bolted thickness including nuts and lock washers. Put it together with ordinary 1/2"-13 nuts and split lock washers both sides. Do not use flat washers, only lock washers. Job done. Dirt cheap.
If you can get medium strength threaded rod rather than the more usual low strength kind, so much the better. However, even 4 low strength 1/2"-13 studs will withstand tens of thousands of pounds load in shear and tension so no strength worries for your little motor barrow.
There is no tapered 1/2"-13 thread in the UN thread system, and if this thing was made in USA I'd bet money the studs and nuts will be ordinary 1/2"-13. US manufacturers do not faffle about with oddball / exotic threads as a general rule especially on outdoor / agricultural / construction equipment.
|Thread: Machine Tool Peripheral Hoists|
The sky hook hoist idea is not new. The biggest disadvantage is the reach is limited, the hoist itself must be manhandled into position and back off the job, and it is right in the way of many lifting ops. Much better to install an overhead crane or jib of some kind, ceiling or wall mounted, even if it is light capacity. Various ones have been shown in ME over the years.
On a big heavily built lathe like Abom's Monarch I would not worry too much about the strength of the toolpost. On lighter built hobby lathes it would not be advisable.
As far as the endorsement aspect of the Abom channel I think it is an economic reality that he has to do endorsements to make ends meet. A one man general purpose machine shop in the US has limited potential for income. He is also a tool collector, particularly of tool types no longer used in industry due to faster / more efficient / cost effective tools being developed in industry. This type of collection is costly and unlikely to generate profit from usage. Also there are fewer and fewer companies doing general repairs as he does due to the high costs. One recent video involved a multi-hour shaper and mill setup / ops to dress gasket surfaces flat on a Chinese imported intake manifold for a Ford Mustang. This manifold was not fit for purpose as supplied, but was cheap to buy. Time was spent installing it, finding gasket leaks, then removing it for repairs. If the total cost of the install/ fault detect / remove/ repair by ABom was compared to the purchase and install cost of a high quality manifold from a US supplier like Edelbrock I expect the Edelbrock manifold would be far less money overall, and it will work perfectly right out of the box, from my experience. I would not participate in the money loss cycle of using Chinese high performance car parts. But it does make good youtube "reality" TV.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 28/05/2020 14:30:07
|Thread: Etalon comparator micrometer|
The Etalon comparator mikes are great instruments. We had a number of them in the toolroom at my first job in industry 36 odd years ago. The benefit is not just that they are great for repeat inspection, but like a bench mike the fiducial indicator system controls the measuring pressure and this greatly improves accuracy. Treasure that one! You are lucky to have it.
|Thread: garden chair, wooden slats broken.|
1937 is a heck of a lot of doors....
|Thread: Workshop Woes|
Quadricycle style vehicle would be a neat project. I would not recommend a copy of Henry's quadricycle engine though, it had major faults (cooling for one, ignition for another) and would not pull the skin off a rice pudding. I had the start of a similar style vehicle a thousand years ago when I was 18, using a V-4 Wisconsin conveyor belt engine and 2 sets of wheels off 750 Suzuki motorcycles whose engines and frames met an early demise racing. Wheels / brakes still in fine shape. Frames were carefully selected scrap 3" steel channel, rusty and badly pitted, heaven knows how old. The idea was something like Henry's 999 race car I had seen at Greenfield Village Museum near Detroit a few years earlier. My old Dad saw me mocking the thing up on the hoist at his garage one day and just said "no, you are not doing that!"
May have saved my life - it would have gone like the proverbial bat out of hell........
Little did he know of my exploits with small engine powered bikes, then full race bikes......
|Thread: Gifted a Bandsaw|
If motor is 1450 rpm the reduction required total is 1450/57.25=25.32:1. You could do very close to this with two 5:1 pulley sets. Drive pulley on motor 1450 rpm 2" dia to 10" pulley (maybe ex old washing machine) has output speed of 290 rpm, a 5:1 reduction. Fixed to the same shaft the 10" dia pulley is on, there is a second 2" pulley, with speed 290 rpm. It could drive a second 10" dia pulley on the saw shaft, a second 5:1 reduction, outputting 58 rpm. Close to the optimal 57.25 rpm in the original calc for a 10" dia saw wheel at 150 fpm. Hope all this helps.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 17/05/2020 00:52:00
I find on my bandsaw 150 feet per minute blade speed is good for general cutting of steel, aluminum and copper alloys with a HSS blade. You can work backwards from that knowing your wheel diameter, calculate the circumference of your drive wheel by multiplying pi x diameter, and calculate what rpm will cause the wheel (circumference ) to move the blade 150 feet in 1 minute.
Example:10" dia wheel - has 31.41" circumference. 31.41" / 12 inches to get feet is 2.62 feet.
150 feet/min / 2.62 feet per revolution= 57.25 rpm for 10" dia wheel to give 150 feet/min
|Thread: Help identifying thread|
Howard Lewis - your third sentence - #10-32 UNF is NOT .164" diameter, #8-32 UNC is .164" diameter
#10-32 UNF is .190" diameter
|Thread: Ball Nose End Mill / 10V Bearings Question|
Your pictures seem to show a ballnose cutter that has not been ground correctly with the start of the radius exactly tangent to the side of the cutter. That could be the problem. I would suggest looking for a better quality cutter with start of rad tangent to sides.
|Thread: Sort of a Straw Poll|
Leslie, I would encourage you to buy the equipment you want and have saved for, and enjoy it for as long as you can. Mike's advice above re taking one day at a time and enjoying each one is top notch advice in my opinion. I wouldn't worry for two minutes about those who have to clear space at some point in the distance future. Leave some notes if you like about who to contact (maybe this forum - there have been a couple of bereaved people looking for guidance recently), values of things, wishes of where some things should go if friends have expressed an interest, etc. Personally I plan to live to 135 years to finish all the projects I want to do! We shall see. Enjoy your machines and shop, and keep us posted as to what you are making (even if it's mostly chips, scrap, noise, cutting oil smoke, and bad language as it is in my shop)
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 12/05/2020 20:26:09
|Thread: Large Balance Wheel Clock|
Clock looks great David! well done.
In the pic though, what keeps it from sliding down the wall? Is that one of those anti gravity doilies that magicians use?
|Thread: Colchester Student 6" Lathe|
What town and province/shire/county are you in, what country? I am sure there will be someone here than can help, but location will matter.
|Thread: Correcting a misaligned silver solder joint|
To re-calibrate heavy-ish bar, for twist, weld a 4 foot or 6 foot piece of heavier bar or channel or what-have-you perpendicular to the piece to be twisted, at its' end. Mount piece to be twisted in vise. Drink a pint of Guinness (for strength). Twist the heck out of your bar, teach it some manners until it is straight to the last micron. Cut "wrench" bar off. If you don't have a welder your local agricultural repair shop, millright, structural steel firm, blacksmith, farrier or car mechanic probably does.
|Thread: Should have stayed on the sofa today|
Sell your special one on Ebay to fund making your new one.
I can see the ad now :
RARE HANDMADE SPECIAL ANTI-HYSTERESIS CUTTER
Attributed to I. McVickers, artist in residence at "The Shed", in his 'Tools For Resistive Materials' Phase.
One of a kind industrial process artefact.
Valued at 1850 UK pounds, now offered without reserve at 1125 UK pounds.
(NOTE only the first 500 offers will be entertained)
What do you think? (Yes I have been working with marketing twats too long)
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