Here is a list of all the postings Jeff Dayman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Request for copy of turbine locomotive article in ME 4667|
Well I can't believe it but I have already had offers of help with my request! lightning fast forum members! Thanks very much to those forum members who assisted. Moderators- could you please close the thread now? matter is successfully concluded.
Hi All, I have purchased ME's 4665,4666, and now 4668 at my bookshop here in Ontario Canada. (yes, we are just now receiving June / July issues)
Somehow the bookshop did not receive a copy of 4667 that has Mr Mike Tilby's steam turbine locomotive "Turbomotive" article part 1. If anyone could make a photocopy I'd be glad to reimburse copy costs and postage. Alternately a scan to PDF of the article would be even better, if someone with the mag has a scanner.
Please PM me if anyone can help. Best regards Jeff Dayman
(before anyone mentions it, I did email several staffers on the masthead at ME with zero response after four days - two tries two days apart . Also tried to phone but could not get through.)
|Thread: I need to cut chamfers into x64 pieces of mild steel - any advice?|
what job is this for?
|Thread: automating a coil winder|
ancient pre computer coil winders used a heart cam to do the traversing of the carriage, geared to the winding axis. There was a room full of them making 24V transformers for heating controls at a plant I worked at in the 1980's. The machines were originally built (beautifully and heavily) in the late 1930's and were still going strong in the 1980's. The motors driving them were the only electric parts. The winders were stopped when the mechanical coil counter kicked out a clutch on the motor shaft.
|Thread: Anyone know what machine tool maker uses this emblem?|
Possibly John Watson foundry Ayr Ontario Canada
|Thread: Mounting stuff to a Faceplate|
you might try a plywood faceplate made in your own shop and mounted in a 3 or 4 jaw chuck. This plywood faceplate is just a small disk and a larger disk of 3/4" / 19 mm thick plywood sawed out and glued and screwed together. The parts to be machined are screwed directly to the larger plywood disk. If the assembly is mounted in a 4 jaw it can be zeroed where desired and no extreme accuracy line up of part to plywood is needed. If using a three jaw to hold the plywood faceplate some care will be needed to align the part to the disk. I sometimes make a centre pop or small hole where zero needs to be, use the tailstock centre to locate on this mark or hole and hold the work to the disk while screws are driven to secure the work to the larger disk.
Light cuts are a must with this setup.
Cheap as chips and it works. Some pics of a couple of mine are in the August EIM magazine in the letters section FYI.
|Thread: Traction engine build|
The first question I would ask around on is the type and the cost of the boiler you want to do. Copper boilers this size will be extremely costly and could take a very long time if ordered from a professional boilermaker. Steel boiler may be cheaper in materials but professional welding to meet local / national regulations is very costly.
If funds are unlimited please disregard my comments above entirely, but if cost conscious like many of us, the boiler will be a big factor in overall costs.
You may need to have some large parts made on others' larger equipment, ie boiler parts wheels flywheel if they will not fit your Boxford, No problem if you have a friend or friends with such equipment but can get costly if you have to have work done at a commercial machines shop. Not trying to discourage you in any way, just mentioning these things for awareness. Good luck.
|Thread: Something to spend your pocket money on|
Some beautiful models there. Could be some piggy banks getting emptied with these.
Just for awareness, the Canadian National Railways 8342 0-8-0 locomotive design by Mr M Evans and shown in the auction brochure is not faithful to the prototype CNR engine at all. If the buyer does not care about the accuracy of the details and appearance being close to the real engine, no problem, but be aware this model is NOT true to prototype. I have been told before that Mr Evans modified the design to suit loading gauge, etc. but as far as I know he never mentioned it was not accurate to the real thing (not even close) and maybe was counting on the mainly UK audience not to be familiar with CNR equipment details. As a Canadian and lifelong CNR fan and having some knowledge of the real engines, Mr Evans "freelancing" the model design is offensive. When I see this model I imagine feelings are much the same as they would be for a GWR fan seeing a vandalised King painted bright yellow with a cowcatcher and woodburner smokestack tacked on, or an LNER fan seeing a model of The Flying Scotsman done up like Thomas and painted bright blue.
I have no doubt it will pull well though, as the auction brochure mentions Mr Peter Dupen worked on it. His models were amazing, in general.
|Thread: Looking for solution to incorrigibly jumpy needle roller bearings|
I would recommend putting no more money into repairing Stihl gas engines or associated parts. I suggest looking into imported cordless hedge trimmers at your local DIY big box store. Not sure about pricing in the UK at DIY stores but last year I bought an imported cordless hedge trimmer here, a local hardware chain's brand, Mastercraft, for about the equivalent of 55 UK pounds, with two batteries. Does a beautiful job, runs for over an hour on one battery, and if it only lasts a few years it is still cheaper than one repair's worth of parts on any Stihl machine (parts are staggeringly expensive for Stihl machines here). Stihl quality has dropped badly in the last few years, carburetors in particular. Just food for thought.
|Thread: Silver solder flux has dried out.|
I don't have your exact brand of flux, but the "Lucas Milhaupt" brand stuff I have has dried out and been re-wet several times and works fine. Take a small lump of your flux and wet it, do a test joint on something non-critical to be sure.
|Thread: Dividing this would have been an interesting exercise !!|
This job would be very simple on a large rigid jig borer (Loewe, Brown and Sharpe etc). Any watch, clock, gauge or instrument factory in the US in the 1920's / 1930's making their own precision dies for stamped parts would have such a jig borer. Builders of the telescope discussed would likely know of, or be able to find a shop to have the part made. Hole positioning accuracy on the Loewe jig borers was +/-.0002" or better, to XY coordinates, not rotational dividing. (position tolerance was often closer than .0002" on one in a factory toolroom I worked in)
|Thread: Random Thoughts on Steam Injectors|
Suggest you find a copy of Mr. D.A.G. Brown's book "miniature injectors inside and out" which has a guide to injector sizing as well as all constructional details needed.
|Thread: Jerryrigeverything channel...electic Hummer.|
I can think of few vehicles that would be a worse candidate for conversion to electric power - unless the objective is youtube clicks and/or getting noticed by US TV "reality" car shows.
Any Toyota or Nissan full size FWD pickup truck style vehicle would be much more suitable, with very strong frame structure and body on the Toyotas particularly. No worries with either make about auxiliary systems like HVAC and ABS. These auxiliary systems are really bad on the Hummers, also Hummers are notorious for having very heavy wheels and other unsprung weight - yet these parts are mounted on very weak structures, and payload is quite low compared to vehicle mass. Lots of issues on Hummers with mixed steel and aluminum body panels without sufficient electrical isolation - corrosion bubbling under the paint where dissimilar materials meet can be seen on most Hummers still existing. Fuel consumption is very heavy on all models, and operator / passenger comfort is nonexistant in all but the H3 (civilian only) model. Hummers (civilian versions particularly) are monuments of bad vehicle design. Sure, the military version passed the military performance spec tests, but these tests are designed to make sure it can handle many kinds of terrain without damage or operator injury. Meeting the spec does not guarantee a good vehicle design with ALL factors considered. Just my opinion.
|Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)|
Great looking casting set Ron. Hope you are better and able to get out on the track soon. Cheers!
I find 5052 or 5053 is great for pan type parts. Similar properties to 60xx series but more easily formed and welded. Usually cheaper than 60xx also, local to me.
|Thread: Acrylic as an Insulator|
Hi Joe, Just FYI resin manufacturers do offer many types of conductive injection moulding grades of engineering polymers. Sabic alone offer 211 grades, Link below. Some are very conductive.
However it is very unlikely you or the OP would find scraps of one of these carbon fibre loaded polymers (or the more recently developed RGO graphene loaded ones) in your local signmaker's shop, hobby store, building supply, or industrial plastic sheet supplier. Many commonly available PMMA and polycarbonate dark colours use chemical dye for colouring them rather than solid pigment, these materials have very low conductivity as you said.
On many of Henry Ford's cars until the mid 1920's, wood was used as low voltage switch gear insulator material, and after that, compression moulded thermoset phenolic resins became commonly used, one brand being Bakelite.
|Thread: Is buying a custom ground tool my only option??|
If you have a boring head, you can put a single point tool in it and set it so the end of the tool describes the arc you need. You can then mount the boring head shank in a block on the tool post, rotating about the vertical axis, with close fit bearings so it can turn without chatter. Also make a clamp-on handle to turn the head and tool assy in the block to make your cuts in the turning stock in the lathe. Look up "ball turner based on boring head" to see this idea arranged horizontally, for turning the OD's of balls. For a groove, you arrange it vertically.
Another thought- if you have a mill and a spin index or rotary table - set up an endmill of the diameter of your groove, mount the work on the index or rotary table and rotate the work past the cutter. when finished, re-mount to the lathe and file and polish the groove to suit.
I also second the idea of going to a bearing factor first to see what it available. you may find an off the shelf bearing with the correct OD but ID too big, or vice versa, for relatively little money and of high quality. Then go to your lathe and make a spacer ring to take up the gap or gaps as needed to make the purchased brg fit your machine. The ring or rings can be retained by Loctite and or setscrews or by a shoulder machined on one side and a retaining ring on the other. The bearing firm can probably help you find a retaining ring if you need one.
|Thread: My ambitions|
You may already know these things, but in case you don't, here are a few things I have found useful about getting good results using reamers:
1. Use only sharp reamers
2. Take a max cut of .005"-.008" with a reamer
3. Select slowest speed for using reamers
4. Use good quality cutting oil for reaming
|Thread: Fractal vice|
Does it matter what it is called? It's a clever design, and well made. Could be very useful in some circumstances.
|Thread: Fun on the water...|
Neil's next article "A workshop visit from D.R. Emel"
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