Here is a list of all the postings Jeff Dayman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: help required|
Parts of the engine look like a Tich, the frames and steam/ exhaust piping are LBSC style. (LBSC was a designer in the first part of the 20th century who produced many popular small locomotive designs.) I don't recognize the valve gear at all, and the cutouts in the frame bottoms are not "stock" Tich items. Maybe it started out as Tich and got a bit customized by the builder?
Anyone else have some ideas for Ian? I'm about 4000 miles from Yorkshire so in-person help is not in the cards I'm afraid Ian.
what country, city or town are you in? (do not post your full address of course, just country and town name)
do you have pictures of the loco? please share if so.
It's more than likely that one or several people here can help but more info is needed.
|Thread: Elidir - 3 inch scale Hunslet|
Looks fantastic Steve! Look forward to lots of steaming videos! Well done.
|Thread: Transport for Live Steaming|
Great video of your rally ! Like Juergen's Garrett, and your fire engine was running well too!
|Thread: Buying a new Lathe....Asian?|
Bandersnatch is quite correct, Grizzly do ship to Canada now. I enquired with them online today about a couple of items but after considering US to CDN dollar exchange, shipping costs, brokerage and duty fees, and Canadian 13% sales tax (yes, even on imported goods) costs are just too high so I will be doing without, for now. The "extras" mentioned above are almost twice the list value of the goods. I may be able to find these items eventually locally or bear down and make my own from scratch, or modify something from KBC Tools Canada.
As always, wise to shop a bit, and consider the TOTAL cost when buying in Canada from the US. There is a lot of cost tacked on. The whole "brokerage" lark is a gold mine. Two minutes of forms work on a computer or on paper by a "customs broker" - $50 to $75 Canadian please. A disgusting no value added ripoff at the border.
Thanks to Bandersnatch for the change of state notice re Grizzly.
Oily Rag - Glad to hear you are happy with your 9" model "A" SB. I agree 100% with you about design, build, and longevity of these lathes, they definitely stand up over time. As said, I really like mine.
|Thread: Can anyone identify this engine unit?|
"Ray Hansbrook" I think has a typo, you may have better Google results searching for Ray Hasbrouck engines. He was from the USA and I agree with Jason the pictured engine looks like one of his designs.
|Thread: SX2P Gas Strut Modification Issue?|
Could a second rack be bought, and both reduced in width to half, then mounted one ridgidly the other free to move a tooth width with a heavy die spring pushing on it to take up backlash at the pinion?
Was the slot drill that grabbed and walked out of the OP's machine mounted in a tight collet or was it in a drill chuck?
|Thread: Buying a new Lathe....Asian?|
The complaints I recall were that spindle hole was restricted some way inside it, so it looks big but isn't, control levers on some early ones fouled each other, carriage / cross slide unnecessarily high reducing turning capacity, some early ones had very short tailstock barrels/screws, and early leadscrews had pitch errors which showed up on longer threaded parts.
The design of the new heavy 10 was done as a collaboration between Grizzly's owner and the Taiwan factory. "wants" and "asks" from various SB forums and individuals in communication with Grizzly's owner also influenced the design. But make no mistake these are Taiwanese lathes not US lathes and not designed by the original SB company in any way. The original SB company in South Bend Indiana ceased to exist many years ago.
Grizzly now own the South Bend trade name. There is no Canadian sales agent for South Bend or Grizzly. What makes you sure there someone in Canada who is a SB agent? Note that I would be happy to be proven wrong on this point, but I can't find any such agent. I would be buying stuff from them if there were.
Many machine tool firms worldwide did have agents here in the 1960's -1980's but no longer. There are some CNC machine firms who still do, supporting the car manufacturing and machine shop businesses, but there are fewer and fewer as industry declines here.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 04/10/2020 14:59:51
FYI when I last tried to order a few small parts from Grizzly a couple of years ago they refused to ship to Canada. May have changed since then, but I would recommend asking first before placing any order.
They didn't give a reason for the order refusal but I suspect that it may be so they don't undercut sales of Busy Bee who do operate in Canada. As others mentioned the owners of Grizzly and Busy Bee are related somehow.
Busy Bee do not offer a lathe that is comparable to the "new heavy 10" from Grizzly. It looks like a nice machine, although I have seen complaints on various forums that it has some odd design quirks that reduce capability in certain ops. (on old SB lathes not all came with all features, but what was present worked perfectly, for many years, even if abused)
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 04/10/2020 12:34:06
|Thread: Right at the beginning|
Two thoughts on chassis rails making for vehicle models:
1. for smaller scale frame rails a flat rail shape could be cut out and strips welded or soldered on to form the rail
2. for larger scale frame rails, a "buck" or form could be cut out of heavy steel to the inside dimension of the rail, then oversize sheet steel / brass / copper clamped to it and formed down into rails with hammering by dead blow or rawhide hammers. The sheet would need to be annealed several times to be formed without cracking. Afterward the rail height could be filed back or round back with a Dremel type rotary tool. This method is like the process used for steam boiler flanged plates.
There are some books by a guy called Mr Gerald Wingrove that show the best car modeling and techniques I have ever seen. Well worth a look if you can find them. There used to be a website, worth a Google.
Just food for thought. Cut some metal, have a go. It is a great way to relax no matter if the results that day are great or go in the bin.
|Thread: Odd Spanner|
The slang in German for that wrench type, at least in Augsburg area, is "mutternwracke". Translated to English, it is "nut-ruiner" (for good reason).
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
|Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917|
Lot of work there Mal, looks top notch as usual!
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
Lovely job Mick, the kids will love it - but is the coal in the tender potted into one piece with acrylic resin or something, so they won't eat it or throw it on Mom's white carpet? (I learned some hard lessons about toys when my son and various nieces and nephews were little) Again, you made a beautiful toy, I like it!
|Thread: waterproof sealing strip|
MickH - depending on how thick the deck plating is, the size of the opening, and how high the plate to be sealed can be off the deck, the weatherstrip at the link below may work. The U shaped bit is fitted over the opening edge, and the bulb part compresses under the plate or door. I have used this style on heavy equipment access plates and doors in the day job for years, and it gives a dependable seal. It is made by many firms worldwide. It does need to be cut to be a slight interference where the two ends meet, with a bit of silicone sealant (bathtub caulk type) to seal the ends. Hope this is useful.
|Thread: Threading trouble|
Hi Simon, yes, you do have to be very careful that no gears in the leadscrew geartrain shift when you rotate the tumbler. At one point in the tumbler motion the gears disengage and if re-mesh is not perfect the gears can shift 1/8 or so of a tooth width. Just takes some practice so they don't shift relative to each other. Some people have built fancy clamping jigs to hold the gears while the tumbler is moved, but I'm not sure these can be depended on to not slip unless clamped hard, which is risky to the gear teeth.
On some large thread cutting I have gotten away with just leaving everything in mesh and reversing the motor while in back gear. Very small risk of chuck unthreading while in slow back gear and with tool pulled back with cross slide a known amount (so you can set depth of next cut).
Matt, are you talking about threading on your South Bend lathe? If so, you can reverse the leadscrew using the tumbler reverse, unless it is missing. True, you do have to loosen a lock screw behind the gear cover on the headstock, and move the tumbler gear lever, but not such a big deal once in a while. I leave halfnuts engaged when doing non-die single point threading on my SB lathe just FYI.
|Thread: Oouch hot fingers|
It occurs to me that if a person's finger nerves do not work well enough to send the brain a signal to dip a tool being ground that is getting warm in the water pot, maybe they should not be grinding tools or doing other hot work. Burns are no joke if they happen repeatedly in the same area.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Gearbox Taper Pin|
Hi David, Just FYI McMaster Carr in the US carry a large range of taper pins and they are generally not very expensive. Link below. May help ID your pin by comparing diameter and length specs. Hope the info helps. If McMaster Carr still carry these, I'd be surprised if a major UK industrial supplier or drive components supplier could not get them, if need be.
|Thread: Buying a new Lathe....Asian?|
I'm also in Canada Matt. I have seen some Busy Bee lathes that were not bad at all but also some that were absolute rubbish with multiple major defects. Also not sure about today, but years ago they would deliver to the front of your house, but would not help you get it off the truck or into your garage. Major aggravation when that happened. King have imported some good tools, my King floor mount drill press is excellent, but I lucked out - when I was looking for one, I tested the spindle play in each one in-store, and found about 6 units that had 1/16" or more of play with the quill down. I found one that had essentially no play and took that home. You have to be careful. KBC tools may be a better place to look for Asian lathes, they stand by what they sell and if you buy one there and have any problems they will try and make it right, in my experience. BB not so much.
If you see any Standard Modern brand lathes in Kijiji etc they are worth a look, they were built well and made in Toronto. As good as or better than South Bend. If you could find a more modern South Bend with lower wear than your older one, and a QC gearbag, that would be a good choice in my opinion. I also have an older SB lathe but I really like mine. Good luck in your search.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.