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Member postings for Jeff Dayman

Here is a list of all the postings Jeff Dayman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Butch - can it come back to life?
19/01/2021 12:17:52

Hi Phil Smith 3. Congratulations on acquiring the locomotive! As far as boiler testing it depends if you are running on your own track at home, or at a club track. There are several clubs and tracks in Canada. If you plan to run on a club track, you should enquire with the club you want to run at about their requirements for boiler testing, which is in cooperation with the local authority in your province. I would NOT advise an individual to contact a provincial government agency / ministry on your own, there will be a hundred uninformed bureaucrats who only know how to say NO and don't bother to check on anything for you. If you are running in Canada in private at home, NEVER in public or at a club, you just need to do a 2 x working pressure hydrostatic test (water only) on the boiler and later, check your safety valves are opening at the correct pressure.

If you PM me with info on what province you are in and what city/major town you are near, I may be able to put you in touch with some club members.

Thread: FREE PLAN: A Clutch for the ML7 Lathe
19/01/2021 12:01:49

If I were in need of a clutch for a lathe I would look to transplant a multiplate clutch from a scrapped motorcycle. If one is chosen from a bike that has significantly more power than the lathe motor there will be no slip. Both wet and dry models are around at bike scrapyards. A wet clutch can be operated dry if the clutch is not loaded heavily, ie if a clutch off a 20 or 50 HP bike is used on a 3/4 HP motor on a lathe. Operation can be by cable working the original cam/ball or helix arrangement or by a custom toggle lever acting on the pushrod. These clutches are unitized and very compact, and well engineered as well as dirt cheap, being made on mass production scale. Smooth action too.

Manufacturers of cars gave up on cone clutches by about 1920, for some very good reasons. These include vicious engagement, limited power transmission capability, frequent relining needed, and slipping with the least hint of oil on the leather. I have driven antique cars with cone clutches and frankly I hope I never drive another one. The pressure plate and disc clutch for cars was a massive improvement.

Thread: bolts
18/01/2021 16:04:51

As Howard said, could be #1-72, if made in USA.

Thread: Cleaning copper rivets.
18/01/2021 14:49:31

Looks like a good job James. Be sure to hydrostatic test it before lighting a fire in it. Usual recommendation is two x working pressure, it should be able to hold that for 30 minutes (or longer). No air at all in the boiler, just cold water, for the hydrostatic test. If it passes with no leaks or weeps you are good to go.

17/01/2021 13:28:33

With the high amps and low volts at the secondary I'd guess it was for welding purposes, but apart from that no idea. Have not come across one with numbers just like that. Pics might help get responses.

Thread: Cleaning copper rivets.
13/01/2021 18:45:19

Pickle to clean rivets (either citric acid or sulphuric acid solution)

Don't use ANY soft solder on a boiler, too many potential issues, silver solder and you will be fine.

Thread: Schraeder valve threads
13/01/2021 12:47:37

They are .302" x 32 TPI on the outside.

Thread: 3.5 gauge Juliet no.2
13/01/2021 00:48:51

Hi Tomek, your Juliet looks great! well done.

Thread: Not the only president causing problems.
12/01/2021 14:00:02

Hi Dave, the engine's looking good! Was the valvegear hanger bracket shown with the rod through it bent somehow, or did someone drill it at the wonky angle?

Not easy sorting out old bodgery if those who went before did it with size 14 boots..... Thanks for the pics they were great to see. There are a number of these President models local to me here in Canada as the casting sets were sold at one time by Miniature Power Products in Woodstock Ontario. If I'm not mistaken Ted McJannett still runs one at GHLS in Hamilton Ontario.

Thread: Juliet no 2
11/01/2021 00:07:14

It's looking great Tony! Don't forget to post a video of the first firing and run,

Thread: Removing powder coating finish from metal.
08/01/2021 15:40:01

Some powdercoat is made of a PE type thermoplastic and can be softened with a heat gun and scraped gently / peeled off. Difficult in nooks and crannies but sometimes it comes off in big sheets. If it does, it won't take long to strip it yourself. If it doesn't soften with heat or solvent type chemicals, 50 pounds for blasting may be good value - just depends on what value you place on your time.

Should mention if heating thermoplastics, or using chemicals, be sure to have plenty of flow through ventilation and wear a respirator mask rated for VOC's if possible,

Thread: The Pitch Drop Experiment
08/01/2021 00:30:29

Strictly FYI about the old glass thicker at the bottom of window panes, and conclusions about it, were discussed in 2007 by Scientific Amurkan at the link below.,for%20changes%20to%20be%20visible.

Here's an English sentence for you all: "would the musical pitch of a drop of bituminous pitch drop when the bituminous pitch was dropped on a football pitch at -40 deg C and cracked?"smiley

I'll get my coat.........

Edited By Jeff Dayman on 08/01/2021 00:30:50

08/01/2021 00:25:44

Strictly FYI about the old glass thicker at the bottom of window panes, and conclusions about it, were discussed in 2007 by Scientific Amurkan at the link below.,for%20changes%20to%20be%20visible.

Thread: Making a cast of a blind hole
07/01/2021 18:58:35

Is this project related to ammunition manufacturing?

Thread: The Pitch Drop Experiment
07/01/2021 17:27:50

There's probably a support group help line phone number Mike, I know how upsetting it can be. smiley

Thread: Heat Resistant Clear Material Needed...
06/01/2021 16:43:19

If there is direct flame nearby, I would not recommend any polymeric material be used. There are some cyclic olefin polymers that will take 160 degrees C in service and some are flame retardant but none of them are rated for, or will stay clear, if exposed to flame. PTFE is opaque by the way, not clear/transparent.

Ordinary tempered glass as used in gas and wood fireplace doors would be my recommendation for use near direct flame, as it will take quite a lot of heat and will withstand rapid cooling from high heat as well, in case someone opens a door and lets a cold draught in. This material has to be cut before tempering. It will shatter if attempting a cut after tempering. Best thing to do would be to find pre-cut and tempered pieces the right size. It is usually not expensive.

Pyrex glass would also be excellent but it is much more expensive usually.

You may be able to find round gauge face glasses in Pyrex or tempered glass. If not, is there room to mount a square or rectangular glass piece in front of or behind the 60 mm opening, in a sheetmetal holding frame?

Glass will be much more durable than mica or composite mica board.

Just food for thought.

Edited By Jeff Dayman on 06/01/2021 16:44:15

Thread: 1/20th Scale Traction Engine
06/01/2021 13:46:09

The door etching and font choice look great Nigel !

Thread: Tender locos for a beginner?
05/01/2021 22:49:51

+1 on Tony's viewpoint. If after 4 forum pages the OP has not made a decision about what to build, they simply need to do more of their OWN research. Plenty of photos, articles,etc on the web - easier than ever to research locomotives, and let's not forget libraries and used/new book vendors.

Thread: 130mm independent 4 jaw chuck, does it exist?
05/01/2021 16:56:19

Surely 5 mm on the OD of a chuck will not affect its' usefulness to any real degree. If there are lots of 125 mm dia chicks and no apparent 130 mm ones at reasonable price I'd suggest getting the 125 mm one and getting on with life. BTW a 4 jaw independent chuck needs to be firmly attached to the spindle of course, but does not need ultra precise location on centre. a few thou runout of the OD of this type of chuck to centre will not matter - you are centring each job using the independent jaws.

Thread: Making a cast of a blind hole
05/01/2021 16:51:31

2 part urethane casting resin would be an excellent choice, and would give a rigid plug for accurate measurements. See for this. Their Smooth Cast 310 pint kit has given me excellent results. I don't have any connection to this firm except as a satisfied customer for many years.

The other possibility that comes to mind is dental impression material. If you know a dentist he may be able to give you a syringe of this two part polymer system used to make moulds of teeth and gum structures. Very safe material and the impressions are high resolution detail. I don't think suppliers will sell this resin system to individuals but a dentist could maybe help you out,

Wax would be OK but may deform or crumble when removed. Beeswax rather than paraffin wax as in candles may be better.

Whatever resin you use, to help get it out, you could embed a wooden or metal or plastic square rod with grooves cut around it to enable twist and pull of the impression to remove it. Just food for thought.

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