Here is a list of all the postings Jeff Dayman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 3D printer recommendations|
Great news Lionel! well done.
After the first few prints it is a good idea to check that your bed leveling springs are keeping the screws / finger wheels tight and not allowing them to turn. On my machine the springs relaxed a bit and needed retightening. I just turned each finger wheel the same amount (closely as possible) so I didn't have to re-level the bed.
Later I changed the springs to "hot rod" aftermarket heavier ones ( only cost a few dollars) and have not touched them since.
Just thinking outside the box a bit - if a rough and ready tool would do for this job rather than a beautifully finished custom broached job, here's an alternate idea. Buy a cheap deep hex socket from a hardware store or auto supply. Turn and bore a shank of mild steel, or find a piece of pipe the right ID and OD. Cut the square drive section of the socket off with a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder or Dremel type tool. Weld or silver solder remaining hex portion of socket to shank / pipe. Tool made.
|Thread: 3D printer recommendations|
To those receiving an Ender 3 soon, prior to or during assembly do check out Myfordboy on Youtube. He has an excellent set of build notes for careful assembly that will contribute to great prints.
There are also a lot of free downloadable stl files to print "hot rod" parts to improve your Ender 3 on sites like Thingiverse. Before spending time downloading them, I would suggest waiting to see if your received machine actually needs them. In many cases Creality has fixed issues over time that some of these parts were designed to address. One example - a long time ago Ender 3's controller box had a fan vent hole on top of the electrical box that all sorts of bits would fall into, jamming the fan. There were several designs of fan ducts on Thingiverse designed to stop this happening. I spent a bit of time downloading, improving the design etc. while I waited for my machine to arrive. I thought the duct would be one of the first prints. Machine arrives - no hole in the box top! Creality had improved the design! I was also told " oh be sure to get a special filament guide tube from company X, the stock ones are garbage". I bought one of the "hot rod" tubes, it was not expensive, but I built the machine with the stock tube and it has worked just fine - the special tube was not needed at all.
The under-bed pull out home-printed tool tray is a useful improvement, as are various filament guides and cable clips for the ribbon cables. A back cover for the control panel is a useful item if moving the machine much - saves piercing your fingers on sharp wire ends on the open PCB - but this may be improved on newer models.
If your machines come with a glass bed, that's great! in my experience they work FAR better than the peelable bed pad the machine came with. If your machine does not have a glass bed, it's a worthwhile improvement, in my opinion. It is held onto the bed on my machine with 4 small bulldog paper clamps. Not fancy but dirt cheap and they work just fine. You do need to raise bed temp setting a bit for a glass bed due to heat losses - in my case about 12 degrees C hotter than recommended bed temp for any given material, determined my experiment, seems to work well on my Ender 3.
Enjoy! 3D printing is a lot of fun, as well as enabling making some very useful parts.
|Thread: What's that thing called?|
You may have better luck with Google search using key words "bellows type way covers". Gortite is one brand.
|Thread: Lathe annoying 50Hz hum|
Hi William, I had a terrible buzz in a mount plate for the DRO Z axis on my Rong Fu mill. The buzz sounded like it would shake the top end to pieces. I remembered some work I did with tuned mass dampers at the day job, and started experimenting with various sizes of steel blocks clamped in various locations to try and change the resonance. Ended up with a 1/2" x 3/4" x 1" or so block of steel screwed to one particular spot on the mount plate. With it, no buzz at all. Without it, buzz and shakes like you would not believe.
Zero electrical or drive work done to fix it, just the tuned mass damper block. You might be able to reduce the buzz in your motor plate the same way. If the plate pivots on a rod or bolts, plastic bushings or rubber grommets may reduce buzz if some of it is originating at the pivots. Good luck.
|Thread: Long bed lathes affected by the tide|
In one firm I worked at, the toolroom was next door to the punch press shop. One really big die for a very large part that ran in the Minster 150 ton press would shake the floor in the area so badly that the turners and mill operators would stop fussy jobs if it was running. Otherwise, there would be marks on the work corresponding to the press strokes! On smaller parts the press did not cause these problems.
There is a story told in Stratford Ontario Canada about the CNR railway shops there, and their neighbours across the road. The story goes that people living in houses next door to the heavy forging shop stored their fine China dishes stacked flat with dish towels between them. This was to prevent them walking off the sideboard and crashing to the floor from the vibration from the bigger forge hammers. If stacked without dish towels, or stood up in the cabinet, there would be heavy damage!
|Thread: M503 comand query|
Hi Mark, I haven't delved into the Ender 3 firmware / controls, but you could post a question to Michael on Teaching Tech on Youtube. He is extremely knowledgeable with this sort of question.
|Thread: diy power on mill|
If you can find a model train speed controller with a max 5 A output @ 12 VDC, you could try that as a speed control. Failing that, you could try a variable bench power supply from Meanwell via one of the e stores on the web. You can get 30 VDC 10A ones quite cheaply.
|Thread: Tapping a nylon hole.|
Just a thought - could you sawcut the nylon block parallel to the thread? This would allow the block to "open" the thread. Maybe the nylon block could be enclosed in an outer aluminum knob to hold its' tightness setting with a setscrew.
|Thread: Hi from Gloucester|
Welcome Sandra. Are you making anything in Grandad's workshop? You will probably need some basic tools in your apprenticeship. Some centre punches, cold chisels, screwdriver etc might be a good place to start (if you haven't already made some bits). Good luck! Any questions just ask, there is a lot of wide range experience in the ME forum.
|Thread: 3D printer recommendations|
Hi Tony, I have had great success printing with an inexpensive Creality Ender 3 printer. It came with Cura slicing software which prepares your stl format CAD file for printing. For making the CAD file I use Solidworks as I have a license for it for work use (not cheap) but others have reported using Autodesk Fusion 360, Alibre, and others.
There are lots of free downloads of stl files ready for printing at Thingiverse and other sites. Thingiverse is well worth a look.
For good instructional video of all aspects of 3D printers, and several types of print process, you can look up Myfordboy on Youtube. There is also a guy under the Teaching Tech label on Youtube whose videos are also good, particularly comparing machines and accessories / upgrades for common machines.
Hope this helps.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 21/11/2019 18:54:39
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 21/11/2019 18:56:19
|Thread: A simple material stand for a power saw|
Those stands will come in handy for a lot of jobs, I would think. Nicely done.
|Thread: Undrilling a hole in brass?|
Nice job on the repair. If anyone ever notices it, you could tell them that was where the compartment for the iridium phase balancer mass pellet (0.0078 grams) was closed up.
|Thread: Brazing demonstrations|
Great info and videos Shaun, thanks for posting. Should be a great help to beginners or those considering what torches etc to buy.
|Thread: Black anodised steel????|
It is possible to apply a black coating on steel by several methods, but it is not anodizing. You will find anodizing on aluminum.
|Thread: What would you call this tool|
Maybe you could call it "Powered auxiliary spindle with three jaw chuck". I think it will be no problem to sell it - those that could use it would be glad to have it. Looks like good quality stuff.
|Thread: Indoor R/C Flight & a whole lot more|
Great models and great pilots - especially the jet model! Who wouldn't smile when a flying happy face lands in their lap? A-10 was great too.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 09/11/2019 22:58:40
|Thread: S50 valve chest cover is chilled|
Good advice to try getting a replacement one from the supplier. Hope that works out well.
For future reference though, should you run across a chilled casting you can not get a replacement for - you can buy a small piece of Meehanite or other continuous cast iron bar for very little money and machine the part from solid. A pic below of a steam chest cover for my 1 1/2" scale steam roller. The cylinders and all covers and the steam chests were machined from solid bar as mentioned. It machines beautifully and in small pieces is not expensive. Just food for thought.
I used several passes with an electric engraver tool (solenoid reciprocating type) to get the rough cast effect in the centre pocket.
|Thread: How does someone gauge the power of a DC or AC motor?|
Not sure why OP wants to reinvent the wheel by using a slow DC motor for grinding. Motor may be pooched already if running at only 400 rpm. By the time you find a 12 VDC supply like a battery charger, connect it and test it with the motor, and ask on here re power and how to do it, you've gone to a bit of trouble for something that's probably not fast enough. I'd go AC bench grinder if I were you. Life's too short. Many cheap bench grinders w AC motors available at minimum cost (new or used ) that will drive the diamond wheel perfectly at about 3000 rpm as it should, with decent power for light or heavy-ish grinding. Due to cost of diamond wheel I suggest lighter cuts to make the wheel last. 400 rpm far too slow in my opinion.
|Thread: Clock #1|
Clock looks great David! well done.
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