Here is a list of all the postings Jeff Dayman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bookpress 5tpi Square thread help please!|
Dowel pin and cigarette paper may do the job for finding centre to your aluminum plug within a couple of thou. Short, cheap, and has worked for well over a hundred years.
Forgot to mention I have used car body filler to encase and secure irregular parts for light machining. Coat the casting in spray furniture wax or proper release agent spray, then make a plywood box to contain filler and part. kitchen plastic wrap can be used on the bed of the machine to keep filler off it. encase the part to halfway across it, like a casting parting line, then wax the face of the filler and fill the other side.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 25/06/2019 12:25:56
|Thread: Superheaters in the Firebox|
Julian Atkins - I know you are very knowledgeable about steam models. However it would do you credit to dispense with the passive aggressive overtones ie "novel construction" and "I hope your club boiler inspector is happy with it".
That's Mr Kyte's business, isn't it?
If the TIG welding on the firebox is what you are having issues with, TIG welded copper boilers have been well proven and are here to stay. Get used to it.
|Thread: The World of Buckminster Fuller|
Yes, the Cinesphere. Complete with original 75 mm film mechanical drive IMAX projector.
The Dymaxion car he came up with was a spectacular flop. Looking at it, I can not figure out what the heck he was thinking......
I did think the geodesic dome was a clever design until I was involved ( in a very small way) in the attempted design of repair equipment to service the skin on the one at Ontario Place in Toronto Canada. It was not designed to be worked on, and even the weight of a couple of repair people on it could cause major issues, let alone cantilevered work staging. There was a tremendous amount of unusable waste place inside, too. Funky but not too practical.
My colleagues at Honeywell who worked on the HVAC system for the OP dome used to talk about what a nightmare it was to heat and ventilate a base-truncated sphere. One guy got visibly agitated if RBF's name was mentioned - he sat in on several meetings with RBF during the Ontario Place dome's teething troubles, which I gather were less than productive.
|Thread: Steam whistle desigh|
Hi Paul, today I opened my just-arrived copy of a US based magazine " Live Steam and Outdoor Railroading" . They are running a serial of Kozo Hiraoka's Rio Grande K-27 locomotive. This month's instalment is covering Kozo's plans for the whistle and how to tune the gap of it and tune the plumbing and valve to get great sound. If you know someone local to you that gets this mag maybe they can scan these pages and send you PDF. As a general guide / approach to whistle building it is a great article.
If you can't find a copy locally please PM me here.
|Thread: WT2527 15cc Glow Engine|
Great engine and plane Craig! Happy flights (and happier landings)
|Thread: Wesco oil can spout thread|
The metal one in BRG and with Union Jack would be my choice. Likely to make any machine run faster with oil from it! Like it.
Sounds like it may be M6 x 1.0 ???
|Thread: Why a round bed?|
I was one of those lads with the two big bags of cement when I was 16-18 or so. 6 foot 2, Solid muscle, pair of steel toed boots and no brains. Did any heavy job going, often got jobs like this because I could do the work of 1 1/2 or 2 guys for one wage.
My back, shoulders, and knees wish I hadn't , now.
|Thread: Illegal CD copy|
Hi Neil, I for one would buy an ME and an MEW DVD if they were issued. Maybe if there was an interest survey ie "if the company offered a DVD of scanned ME and MEW from issue x to issue y would you pay z UK pounds?" to quantify the consumer interest. You might be able to get the firm interested if response was positive.
|Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)|
Hi Ron, Why two greased steel shims? just based on experience and some basic tribology theory.
If you had one shim between a rotating pulley hub and a stationary Oilite bushing, in theory if there is side pressure on the shim the shim will rub on the Oilite or the pulley or both, a high wear situation.
If there are two greased shims, in theory one shim may stall on the Oilite or rotate slowly, the other shim may stall on the pulley or rotate slowly, but the main relative rotation will occur between the two greased shims. The grease separates the shims and minimizes the wear and the shims being hard and relatively flat and smooth steel will have low friction coefficient to begin with. This usually will result in low or no wear on pulley or Oilite. It's not a tragedy if after many hours you have to replace the shims for 50 cents or a dollar. You have saved many tens of dollars replacing shims rather than a chewed up pulley and Oilite bush.
Again for occasional use the above theory may not matter much but just offering food for thought based on working on a LOT of machinery over the years, seeing what works best.
All ready to be shot down in flames now by the usual armchair experts!
+1 on Ian SC's suggestion to use two hard shim washers for your application. Personally I would just use two greased steel ones. Reason for not using a plastic one in the stack is that anything soft in there will pick up dust and hold it, lapping away continuously at the harder parts. With occasional use as in your locomotive it may never be an issue but with prolonged use I've seen plastic bushings wear steel shafts 3 mm on dia and plastic washers wear solid steel bushings away by 6 mm. 10 cent plastic parts still looked great - multi hundred dollar steel parts were scrap!
Just food for thought. Good luck!
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 11/06/2019 16:57:06
|Thread: Drawing errors for LBSC Maisie|
Bob, Mr Alan Stepney used to keep a compilation of known errors for many engines and locos on his website before he passed away a few years ago. The errors on drawings thread is still listed on ProBoards but when I tried the link to Alan's site it said the site could not be found. Maybe someone else has taken over the stewardship of the data but I don't know who that is, sorry.
|Thread: Drilling holes for plastite screws|
The min and max hole sizes in the charts are intended to be used as manufacturing tolerance limits for the holes people are making in their products that will receive the screws. The screws will work OK at any hole size in this range, but the mean of the min and max is the best hole size to start with, generally.
What plastics exactly are you working with? what are you holding together with the plastite screws?
|Thread: Internal grooving help required.|
"The type Jeff illustrates is fine but does need plenty of room beyond the groove."
Nigel, the OP does mention the ID is 87 mm and that there is plenty of room.
But If depth was an issue the boring bar layout that Paul suggested would be better.
|Thread: laser cutting service recommendation|
Can't help with laser firm recommendation in UK but another great way to get acrylic cut is at a waterjet cutting service. Try googling waterjet cutting for your area. The cut with this method is a clean matte finish and has no melted bits to clear away.
|Thread: Internal grooving help required.|
Made the one shown below from a broken tap with the end ground to suit. It is set in a cross drilled mild steel bar. A tapped hole in the end holds a setscrew to hold the tool. You could make one a bit bigger of course but I would not try and cut the 10 mm width with a 10 mm wide tool. Better to make a smaller tool and move it along the 10 mm cut , doing a few passes to reach 2 mm depth. Hope this helps.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019|
Beautiful work Brian, well done!
|Thread: Drilling holes for plastite screws|
Hi Harry, if going into softer resins like PE or PP, the manufacturer's recommended hole size is a good starting point. If going into hard resins like HIPS or PC, or into glass fibre or carbon fibre reinforced resins, a slightly bigger hole may be needed to avoid breaking off screws or splitting screw bosses. Hope this helps.
|Thread: Is CAD for Me?|
Hundreds of thousands, if not millions of people worldwide use 3D CAD every day. If you open your mind and make a fresh start with a 3D CAD package I am sure you CAN learn it if you want to. If you put up mental roadblocks and say "that's not like 2D CAD" "That's not like 2D draughting" "what about isometric projection" etc it will make it much more difficult to learn.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.