Here is a list of all the postings Jeff Dayman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019|
Nice runner Jason!
|Thread: What solenoid to use?|
A very good damper drive actuator is the Honeywell Versadrive. I worked on developing these about 30 yr ago.
If you can find one you will not be disappointed. Honeywell may still sell variants, but not sure if modern ones are the same design.
|Thread: diameter calculation|
Agree Alan, it's getting ridiculous again, isn't it? Mind you, the egg cup I made this week was accurate to 22 millionths of an inch, and well worth the effort......
My goodness what a waste of time. The OP just wanted to know a shop grade calculation (and got one early on) .
|Thread: Has to be seen to be believed|
The lack of any visible stays, the big overhang of the flange at the backhead, no bushes to get water in or steam out, no steam dome provision, are all pretty big concerns. Soldering is not neat either. Who knows what the builder had in mind. It might be possible to operate some small toys with this thing at very low pressure ie under 10 psi, but I don't think it is suitable for a locomotive or traction engine at all. Some useful copper if you wanted to cut it apart to make such a loco or TE boiler......probably much further ahead to start fresh.
No end of ways on the electric yard sale to separate people from shekels.
|Thread: Antique car electrics|
Thanks John, just sent you a PM.
Thanks Tim, from my first post -
" I am helping a friend with the electrics on a 1926 Peugeot car. On the dashboard / instrument panel there is a two handle main electric switch. It also has a central button at the bottom. The left handle has 4 positions labeled C,P,O,L and the right handle has 2 positions labeled M and O. The labels are embossed in the brass switch plate which is 84 mm dia, It is also marked "Etablis Ducellier" at the bottom and has a lovely embossed script "Peugeot" at the top."
If you happen to have a wiring diagram for this car (or similar Peugeot cars, in years close to 1926, or for the Ducellier firm's products) I'd be glad to have a copy by PM.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for the Depanoto lead Neil, much appreciated.
Moderators - Could I ask that these posts about restoring current cars in the future be moved elsewhere? This thread was intended for antique car electrics as the title says. I welcome any comments on the 1926 Peugeot electrics or other antique car electrics matters but don't want to wade through piles of speculation on the future.
|Thread: Turning between centres on Super 7|
Not sure what the issue is with a 2" long peg or stud with nuts for the drive dog. You could also use a bent-leg drive dog with a 2" extension. Have used 2" and longer studs and bent leg dogs many many times with no issues whatsoever. No need to look for special short centres.
Of course any sort of drive dog turning needs extra care to keep operator and clothing well away from turning parts. Also wise to keep speeds down a bit due to the unbalanced mass. In the old days turners used a boot lace to tie the dog to the stud or a bent leg dog to the faceplate, but these days a nylon cable tie does a nice job. Just be sure to cut the tail off flush with the buckle, don't leave a sharp end.
|Thread: Antique car electrics|
Vintage Engineer - do you have any pictures of the connectors on the back of your switch on your 1914 Peugeot? One of the things we are doing on the 1926 machine is replacing the perished zinc die castings of the housing with machined aluminum ones. The originals have completely disintegrated by expanding internally and crumbling. As this happened the electrical connections fell out and were lost. We do plan to replace the connectors with bronze conductor parts and modern plastic insulators but would like to know what the originals looked like. Thanks again.
Thanks to all who replied! This is a great help in understanding the car's electrics.
Any antique car electrics experts in the forums? I am helping a friend with the electrics on a 1926 Peugeot car. On the dashboard / instrument panel there is a two handle main electric switch. It also has a central button at the bottom. The left handle has 4 positions labeled C,P,O,L and the right handle has 2 positions labeled M and O. The labels are embossed in the brass switch plate which is 84 mm dia, It is also marked "Etablis Ducellier" at the bottom and has a lovely embossed script "Peugeot" at the top.
My questions are
1. what do these initials C P O L and M O stand for (I assume they would be initials of French words, the car being made in France)
2. what did the central button on this switch operate? might be an electric horn, maybe a side searchlight, but it is not for the starter, the starter has a floor mounted pedal / button.
Thanks for any help. Bon soir.
|Thread: Unusual GPO hammer?|
I thought as it were a small hammer the GPO meant "gentle percussion only".
(now taking cover)
|Thread: Hello from Canada!|
Welcome Gary, you've got a private message. If you log in and look at the top left corner of the page, you will see the "inbox" icon flashing that you have a message.
|Thread: Water in fuel|
I think that method was invented by a Mr. J. Ettison.
|Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch|
Well done Derek! Like a Swiss watch!
|Thread: Plugging crankshaft oil ways|
I'd be concerned about a soft plug creeping and loosening over time.
A hard ball or tapered plug pressed in with a few tons force is much less likely to loosen.
I have used the Lee type expansion plugs in industry, and generally they work OK, but we would get the odd leaker. The price was rather high also. If the fit is right, press fit balls or plugs into steel parts don't leak, up to 500 psi pressure, and don't loosen, The price is right too, and they just need a plain hole, no shoulder.
Another two possible methods -
1. Make short tapered pins with 1.5 to 2 degree taper and a 1 to 1.5 thou interference and press them in.
2. Find a steel or stainless steel hard ball with 1 to 1.5 thou interference and press them in.
|Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch|
My fingers are crossed here! Good luck tomorrow.
Hi Derek, did you use some silicone sealer or other gap-filler at the screw heads shown in the pic below with the red arrows? If not air may be getting by the heads or the screw slots out the side, under the gasket. You could add some sealant by removing only the valve chest cover. Some socket head capscrews or philips head machine screws would be better here than slot heads, because with those there is no leak path across the head. There may still be a gap above the head though, needing extra gasket or some sealant, or both.
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