Here is a list of all the postings Jeff Dayman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Can one buy pliers with parallel jaws that lock like mol|
If there was an actual frequent need or purpose for the tool the OP describes you would likely be able to buy one anywhere. Much like the enormous variety of existing hand tools out there, all of which originated by people actually needing such a tool often. There are usually many ways to do a particular job.
A vise seems suited to the task the OP describes, except they are not as portable as hand tools.
Rather than wish / speculate / use people's time to research rare tools which may not exist, why not improvise or use what is at hand and get on with life?
|Thread: Hobbymat MD65 refurb' tailstock problems|
You should definitely not need a hammer to move a tailstock, on any lathe.
Would suggest disassembly, clean, inspect for burrs / dents / galling on both bed and tailstock, remove any burrs, re-oil and reassemble.
|Thread: Disposing of Gas Cylinders?|
Re using up all the gas - I always use these small cylinders until the torch won't run anymore, but there is always a wisp or two of gas in them afterward. Very little, but some. Can't see a way around it except to maybe refill the cylinder. I am aware this is technically easy to do - in fact I have been present when it was done - but locally it is against the law to do it. Not sure why. There may be a concern by authorities that the small cylinders could be over pressurized if fed from the wrong kind if gas supply, maybe? or maybe big merchants lobbied the regs so they can keep selling bags of these small tanks to people......
Re giving these small cylinders to the local waste/ dump staff - local to me, the waste station / dump will not accept gas cylinders of any kind. No problem with scrap steel though, as mentioned in my first post above.
Or what I use, for 1.52 UK pounds at Amazoon:
I would be surprised if several of your car-owning friends or relatives don't already have one though.
Outdoors, away from any flame, remove the fill valve in the centre of the threaded stem. Most will unscrew like a car tire valve core. This will vent any pressure inside the bottle. If it does not unscrew, depress the valve stem to vent all remaining pressure, then drill the valve out while running water around the twist drill. Leave outside to vent for a day or two. Fill with water, place in jaws of workmate, Drill a 3/8 dia hole midway up the bottle. Using a hacksaw blade in a handheld jigsaw, or a portable bandsaw, cut the bottle in two midway up the bottle. You now have two harmless pieces of steel scrap that can not be pressurized or cause explosion or fire. You can divide the pieces further of course if you want. I usually leave the pieces outdoors for a few more days to allow any odorant from the gas or entrained gas in or on the metal to dissipate.
Note that you need to be aware of all local laws about such practices, and not do it at all if it is prohibited where you are.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 07/05/2021 14:36:11
|Thread: edm machines|
I use a Valvoline dielectric oil specifically made for EDM, sold by a large oil dealer in my area (Ontario Canada).
I suggest calling a local oil dealer to you and ask what they recommend. Or call a mouldmaking shop for injection moulds, they use it out of 45 gallon drums.
Rustlick is another USA brand I have tried but I find it smells unpleasant, where the Valvoline one does not. Virtually no smell and almost clear transparent in colour with the Valvoline product. Great stuff.
I would not recommend any paraffin / kerosene unless it is specifically formulated for EDM. Lighter kerosenes can catch fire under some EDM conditions, ie work submerged less than an inch deep. Kerosene also smells strong, and EDM smoke is oily and sticks to curtains, clothes etc. so if it smells bad it can be a big issue in the household.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 06/05/2021 20:29:18
You do not need to rotate or oscillate the electrode for successful EDM. In fact doing so will reduce accuracy of cut, because the motion will need clearance to work, and that clearance will be multiplied by the distance from electrode tip to rotate / oscillate mechanism , cutting the hole much larger than the electrode.
An accurate linear slide to hold the electrode, and a DC gearhead motor or servo to operate a leadscrew to drive the slide up and down are all that is needed, if you use the Ben Fleming design. If you are going to spend some cash, get a decent linear slide and forget about rotating the electrode with the apparatus in your picture.
I built a Ben Fleming Mk.1 conventional EDM (sink) machine in 2009-2011 with such a slide (from Deltron in the USA) and some other variations and it has worked great since. If I make copper electrodes .003" smaller than the desired finished hole dimension the holes (whatever shape) come out VERY close to dead nuts on size.
|Thread: HSS parting blade 1/2"|
A link below to a big US based industrial supply firm's parting blades. Large variety, probably decent quality, but quite expensive.
I have also had some from a local tool sales firm who get theirs from Groz in India. ONE in the pack of 4 I bought was good HSS and cut nicely, the others I am quite sure were mild steel - total rubbish and not usable.
|Thread: Tailstock turret|
It's looking good Phil!
|Thread: ME Boiler|
The safety valve designs published by Gordon Smith some years ago work very well and re-seat quickly. Search this site - Jason Ballamy published a link to the designs some time ago.
Any building toy that gets kids making / putting together something is great. But-
Marketing it under a name from the past like Bassett Lowke is in my opinion a cheap marketing trick aimed at grandparents / great-grandparents who might recognize the old firm's name / recall their quality while buying toys for little kids. The toys shown have no relation to the original firm's product or scope, it's just more mass market injection moulded toy products.
|Thread: First try with a 3D printer|
Great looking thread protector!
Note re frogs and boat prints - great for testing hydraulic presses.......gets em flatter than p*$$ on a plate.
|Thread: Cleaning a tacho glass|
Years ago I did take the speedo and tach apart on a 1972 Honda 350 K2 I had. The front and rear halves of each were held together by a polished aluminum band rolled or pressed to a C shape to permanently assemble the units. A rubber gasket was compressed between front and rear halves of the steel shell. I got the speedo and tach housing shells apart by cutting the aluminum band. After cleaning the internals, repainting the faces and cleaning the glass (real glass, in those units, luckily) I drilled tiny holes in the aluminum band, put a dab of silicone sealant at the join, and wired the band ends together with some small dia copper wire. The wire and the join was placed where it would not be visible, under the units toward the steering stem. Worked for many years afterward.
Bear in mind both meters worked fine before, they were not corroded inside at all. The reason for disassembly was the paint on the faces was completely sun faded to the point you could not read the faces at all. Lots of condensation marks on the inside of the glass too.
Hope the disassy info is useful, if your gauges are fastened with a band as mine were.
|Thread: Bandsaw - wood and metal ?|
For many years now I have been using a steel framed woodworking bandsaw modified for blade speed of 150 fpm an using an HSS bimetal blade. This saw cuts steel or other metals as well as wood with excellent results.
Typically woodwork machines run many times faster than 150 fpm and have lighter blades and lighter frames, not suitable for metal cutting. However If you can find a woodworking saw that can be modified to run at 150 fpm and having a steel frame, it may work fine. Otherwise look for a metalworking saw.
You may also be able to find an inexpensive Chinese import handheld portable metalworking bandsaw, which you could use handheld of course but it could be mounted to a bench frame and a table fitted to it if need be.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 11/04/2021 12:45:54
|Thread: Help needed with identifying a tool|
a) if the pins on the spanner are small enough they will engage the sides if the slots in the nut.
b) grind the pin side to a half round shape with flat parallel to the nut slot side face. After the grinding the wrench can be used on slots or on holes, although pin strength will be slightly reduced. Certainly not a perfect tool for the job, but for a one off or infrequent operation, you do what you need to.
As I said, Jason's tube wrench with lugs is the preferable way to do it.
Jason's suggestion of a tube wrench with two lugs will grip the ring nut in the OP's picture better than a pin spanner. Easy to make from scrap tube, too, and cheap as chips. A cross drilled hole at the other end, to fit a stout round bar, gives a simple way to drive the wrench with high torque.
Just in case you still want one though, the tool is called an adjustable pin spanner, seen at link below. Very good for use on nuts with drilled holes in the nut face, like the seal holding nuts in the wheel hubs on many 1970's Japanese motorbikes.
|Thread: How on earth do I build this boiler for my Fire King ?|
Just my opinion Bob, but I don't think having the firebox inner and outer shell meet at a sharp junction with no foundation ring is a good idea. Depending on the water you use, there may be a lot of sediment buildup at the lower end of the boiler. If it is a small space tapering to a point, it will fill quickly and you may get plate overheating if there isn't water between the shell and firebox inner because the space is full of sediment. A foundation ring provides a) a water space to keep plates cool / transfer heat, b) a wide ledge for sediment to fall on, and be shifted / blown off during blowdown. Food for thought.
Edited By Jeff Dayman on 08/04/2021 19:31:49
|Thread: Source of 2 inch balls for water pump|
50 mm wood balls are available on Aliexpress (China import). Search their site for "Wooden balls without bore Dia. 50mm/60mm/70mm/80mm"
They may have plastic ones too, acetal would be a good material choice if they have the dia you need in acetal, but probably a lot more money than wood balls.
If you use wood balls I suggest multiple dips in melted wax to seal them, this will have minimal chance of leaching bad chemical pollution into water as varnish/chemical wood sealer might.
|Thread: Java 0-4-2 O+K De Maas Sugar Mill Locomotive|
Looks like a great start!
|Thread: Milling Vice Location|
Seen lots of mills with wear causing table movement at either extreme, but never seen one with the table having actual curvature as the sag stories state.
The mills with the widest knees / longest knees generally show least deflection due to wear.
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