Here is a list of all the postings frank brown has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Parvalux motor with gearbox|
We used 100s of small ones to rotate rotary transformers for voltage stabilisers, 16V field + 8V armature DC 50/100:1 gear box? sort of 8" end to end.
|Thread: Decoy Casting|
The club I go to had a lot of tools donated to it. They were newish cheapo power tools but there was a new mains tool grinder. Now this was fastened on to a pillar with a large floor mounting base so it could be sat anywhere to use. The pillar assemblely was completer with reinforcing webs between the pillar and the top and bottom. The whole thing was as heavy as you would expect. "Thats £30 worth of grinder on a £100 casting " , I said. Turned out to be a total con, but of museum quality, all wood and plastic with concrete inside the tube,
Some chap spent a lot of time making it look antique, but in reality I suspect it was actually dangerous, Plastic pipe with a vibrating motor on top?. Stripped the lot apart.
|Thread: Jet JDP-17F pillar drill problems - diagnostics?|
I bought a secondhand drill like this. It had been used but was in very good order. I too found that the intermediate bearing seemed a bit "shaky". How ever on loosening the various motor clamps/ belt tightening doo-dahs, greasing them then re tightening, it ran fine. I feel as though something was tightened against some swarf and not against its pillar/nut etc. The whole table rise and fall mechanism was also attended too, it almost works now, but wonderful value.
|Thread: Telly tonight|
Danny can be funny, but not here, replicating the workings of a 1938 GWR network is a very serious business.
|Thread: Tidal power getting going in the UK|
Time to visit this again (sorry for the pun).
|Thread: Apple Car|
It will be VERY shiny and every time you touch something, it'll change shape. I wonder if they can develop a thermal fuse?
|Thread: off hand grinder|
To loosen any grinder nut it needs smacking in the direction of stone rotation. Doing 10 times a day on my disc cutter. Work it out.
|Thread: Do you go to the scrap metal merchant|
Needed some 16mm bar, went to a "metal big store", they sold me 5/8" instead cos' they did not measure it. .025 smaller could have been another 10 miles trip, but they did not have the 16mm. A scrap yard could have been of benefit, at least you might be reminded to take your own measuring kit.
|Thread: MEX Photos for those that stayed home|
"How about chicken chassaure with a light sauce and fresh veg with half a bottle of pino grigo?"
|Thread: 'Reverse Engineering' a Gear.|
I think that the secret is the number of teeth (11/13?). I found an obscure chuck key this way in some modern catalogue in a builders merchants in the Yorkshire Dale !! I suspect the web might have a wider choice.
|Thread: Slot Drill problems|
One thing which has not been mentioned is " climb milling". The way a milling cutter should work is like a wood saw, The material should always be forced into the teeth of the cutter. When cutting a slot using both sides of a cutter, on one side the material is going into the cutter teeth, on the other side, the material is actually travelling in the same direction as the cutter teeth. So to make sure that the teeth cut, the spindle speed has to be increased. Every time a tooth bites, it tries to push the material away down the backlash.
If the initial slot is cut narrow, then a finishing cut down in side in the correct feed direction would be the best you could do.
|Thread: Wiring diagram|
Further to John's reply, those black links look like a give a way, could be L & N inputs. If they are, then they feed the motor via a reversing action to one winding.
|Thread: My workshop build|
Shame to hear that Speedy, what caused it to do that? Not sure about their efficiency but under the bonnet CO2 systems are cheaper, too small a volume?
Too late now but MDF is not right for flooring, you should have used 22mm P5 grade T&G flooring panels. The previous occupant to my house used bits of MDF for shelving in the garage, in the long term (>5 years) it bows under its own weight. Some of my shelves are spectacular in their curves. Must get round to to replacing them
|Thread: Machine tool paints|
One does sound like an old f**rt, but when I was a lad, (1965), my grandad bent up some black iron bar into "wrought iron" railings and my dad painted the thing with Dulux buttercup domestic polyurathene paint. His language was awful, seems it was very difficult to apply the second coat. It still looks great!!
In 1980 I used 2 pot International polyurathane paint on a south facing external wooden door. Slight dusting of surface since then, really only showing up my poor workmanship.
1990, sprayed my sons bike with Hammerite. Soft as marzipan, chipped off (strange?), waste of time and money.
I hope the Health and safety people are happy, certainly the company directors are
|Thread: How should one protect ferrous tools?|
I would say that its the floor is trying to keep the garage at a low temperature. As said, wooden sheds if insulated or vented do not suffer too badly from rusty tools, at least mine has not with over 30 years use. One very easy experiment is to put down a sheet of plastic on the floor (foot square?) with a brick on it. After a week lift the plastic and see if its wet. My present Celcon built garage that has some kit in it seems to be 100% dry but it has an up and over tin door. So a balance of thermal loss and ventilation? I suppose the water table/ wet winds will affect it. Unless you can actually see wet on the inside of the walls, I would not bother with damp proofing. Air is very slippery and will just leak through bricks and paint is only about 60% air tight.
Had a thought:- how about roof insulation, so during the day solar energy is trapped within the building and leaks out so slowly, at night the building does not cool down to dew point? That has been one common factor with my outhouses.
|Thread: Things to save from a CRT TV being scrapped|
The problem with implosions is that the bits don't stop in the centre, but bounce off each other. CRTs are tough as old boots, other then dropping them on your foot or stupidly breathing in the dust, no problems. Ion trap magnets worth keeping, like the LOPT. Old cabinets worth sitting on! Recent TVs I have stripped for their loudspeakers were a waste of time as the modern loudspeaker has a foam suspension to the cone which rot through after 10 years, so it leaks air, while the 1960 grey pressed steel ones at least kept an air seal for decades. Something to think about the modern big sets that need sound bars, cos' their internal sound are all very poor and we all know that your soundbar loudspeakers will be rubbish too in a few years.
TV Studio sound is brilliant, shame most of you lot won't have heard it.
|Thread: What size drill|
In the same way as you would not screw a bolt into a hole with chips in it, you don't unscrew a tap with chips behind the cutting bit*. As an Apprentice, one job We had was tapping out 4 Ba washers, 6" long "machine tap" (4"+ core diameter over top of cutting area) in the pillar drill, hold washer in pliars, push upwards on to tap, repeat until a pile of washers two inches thick was on tap. Then remove the tap and shake washers off. Repeat ad-nauseum.
* Turn metal upside down and shake chips out.
|Thread: Internet Problems|
" Blimey! It's running at 9.8Nb! It must have heard me moaning." Nano Bytes? Where my Daughter used to live, She had a Virgin fibre box outside her house and used terminals #1?. So the Virgin Techs used to take her line and use it for testing other circuits, must have happened 10 times, about Her resulting speed.
|Thread: This Old Tony 'making an espresso pot'|
I wonder if starting off with a few blocks of Applewood and Beech and a pile of Charcoal would lead to a nicer tasting coffee that would be more "mature"?. Bacon fat for machining might be smoother and less acidic to the tongue then these modern nasty chemicals.
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