Here is a list of all the postings Bill Pudney has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: M8x1 left hand tap.|
Drill Service at Horley would be another suggestion. I got a couple of M10 x 1.0 LH taps and a die from them, some time ago.
|Thread: Lathe tool holder|
I did exactly the same thing with some toolholders. The problem was cured with a steel shim and JB Weld. There were two problems, P1,clamping the shim in place, required a small bit of mylar as a release agent, to ensure that everything wasn't stuck together forever, and P2 leaving the toolpost and toolholder clamped up for 24 hours whilst the epoxy cured.
Best of luck,
|Thread: 316 Stainless|
Are you using bar or plate?? The reason I ask is because, at least up here in 'Straya, 316 plate is assumed by the steelmaker to be used on weldments, and due to a lack of (I think) Sulphur it behaves exactly as you described. The steel makers add sulphur to the melt when making bar and as a result it becomes almost free machining.
|Thread: What lathes have you had?|
My first lathe was a Russian "Uni 3" bought at half price at the closing down sale of local lathe manufacturer Hercus. Tonys "lathe UK" site has a good bit on it, but basically it's a 3" centre height by about 200mm between centres machine....i.e. pretty small. I used it for a few years and made a lot of small model aeroplane stuff on it. It's a really robust small lathe, and I plan to use it more.
After a few years with the Uni 3 I thought it was time for a bigger machine. My first thought was a Myford. So I contacted the Australian agents, asking for a quote and estimated delivery. They came back with AU$15,000 and six months delivery. So I bought a Sieg C3, 7" x 14" mini lathe, from the same shop, similar but slightly smaller work envelope as a Myford and 10% of the cost, and immediate delivery, after a couple of years I heard that Myford had closed down. Blow me down, what a surprise. I've used the C3 for all sorts of things associated with model aircraft, basically 7 or eight model aeroplane engines. I've done a few mods, tapered gibs for the carriage, tapered roller bearings for the spindle, OXA QCTP. All in all it's a really good robust small lathe. Generally reliable, and when I've had a problem bits and pieces are readily available and cheap.
Then a few years ago I had the opportunity to buy a Schaublin 70 TR, it's a turret lathe. Lovely small machine an absolute delight to use. As it had a 3 phase motor it got treated to a VFD which is excellent. Fortunately I haven't had to buy any spares as the are generally eye wateringly expensive.
Knowing what I have learned, if I was starting again I would buy a Sieg SC4 without a doubt.
|Thread: Surplus subjects learnt at school.|
I went to King Edward VI Grammar school in Southampton, between 59 and 64. We sat 14 "O" Levels, the only subjects I was any good at were Maths, English, Tech Drawing and Woodwork, passable at Physics, Biology. After leaving school I found myself studying pretty much full time, albeit on a part time basis up to my mid 40s. The only thing that I was stumped by was Calculus, funnily enough when I was a ships Draughtsman I had a need for it, and got a "Calculus for Dummies" book which helped!!
All in all although I didn't enjoy my time at school at the time, my dear old Dad was quite right when he said that I would look back on my schooldays with fond memories.
|Thread: Yet another "parting off grief" thread ;)|
Just to upset everyone. This morning I parted off some 18 mm diameter 4140 steel(pretty tough stuff), with an Arc Euro type parting tool with carbide insert, starting at 450 rpm, ending up at about 600 rpm. Went through like a hot knife through butter. This was on a Sieg C3 (7" x 14" mini lathe).
Edited By Bill Pudney on 17/07/2019 10:56:28
|Thread: Engineers blue alternatives|
My experience of scraping goes back to my apprenticeship in the 60s. Way back then the best results were had with a VERY light application of blue, it seems to me that any sort of roller would put on far too much. But I may be wrong, it has happened before according to The Boss.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Spindle Lock|
Slightly tongue in cheek, but going by the comments of previous generations of Myford owners I had always imagined that Myford were a classic example of good design and skilled manufacture. Surely such a professional organistion would have designed in an appropriately adequate mechanism for safe, quick and easy chuck removal. After all, changing chucks can be a fairly regularly performed operation. Certainly on my Chinese mini lathe today, I changed from a (bolt on) collet chuck to a 3JC to a 4JC, all without mishap and total elapsed time of between three and four minutes lost metal mangling time, with little risk of damage to anything.
Or have I just misunderstood how marvelous Myfords are??
|Thread: What method do you use to find center height for your lathe bit?|
I have an optical centering scope, it's primary use is to locate centers on the mill, but another major use is to stick it in the tailstock and adjust tool height as indicated. Guaranteed within a small range. Very quick and easy, and having a second use for a bit of kit is always a good thing!!
|Thread: Warco Mini Lathe|
FWIW google "mini lathe tapered gibs". I made and fitted tapered saddle gibs some eight or ten years ago, and it made a huge difference. Mine were more or less i.a.w. "bogstandards" method.
No doubt older (I almost wrote "...and wiser" heads will comment about Chinese quality etc etc but sometimes you just have to go with what you have.
Edited By Bill Pudney on 23/06/2019 04:55:12
|Thread: Lathe Speed - What am I missing out on?|
Just last week I was turning some 4140 steel, at over 2,000 rpm on my mini lathe. Yes it was quite vivid, and very exciting. The swarf was coming off blue and smoking. This morning I was turning some 6061T6 Al. Alloy, at about 2,500 rpm.
A bit like riding a motor cycle, more speed + more fun (sometimes!!)
|Thread: Mini Lathe Rear Tool Post|
My Sieg C3 (mini lathe) now uses an "oxa" QCTP also acquired from Arc Euro. The square, flat, spacer went straight into the "small bits" bin no doubt to return to dust there. Most of my tooling has 10mm x 10mm shanks Some time (years and years) ago I made a post and clamp, Norman(??) style toolpost (look in my Albums). This used an upside down parting blade, and obviously required the spindle to turn in reverse. Being a modern machine with a bolt on chuck, this caused no problems with the chuck unscrewing. Parting off with this set up was a breeze. Although parting off with the oxa is o.k. there are still knuckle whitening moments, I'm thinking of making a toolholder with an upside down blade, to try and improve things
I recently nearly finished a "chariot a vis" (Schaublin terminology) for a Schaublin 70 (again, look in my Albums). All machined on a 10 or so year old Sieg X2 mill. Gordon Bennett what a mess, but it does machine beautifully. Because my new chariot does not get used very much on the Schaublin, it occurred to me that for the small things that I make quite a lot of, The "chariot a vis" could be used on the Sieg C3 (after removing the carriage obviously). We shall see!!
|Thread: Blacking engraved lines|
Where I used to work, we made a lot of electronics boxes for the military. So it had to be robust and soldier/sailor/airman proof. There was a lot of engraving, one person used to do the infilling, he used Humbrol enamel, black, white, red whatever. After near obsessive cleaning the engraved characters were infilled with a small brush and the excess wiped off with a Humbrol thinners dampened cloth. Much like what has already been suggested.
Edited By Bill Pudney on 12/02/2019 02:20:33
Sorry chaps, should have mentioned the album...short term memory loss!! The leadscrew threads give the logical movement associated with the handle movement, i.e. clockwise moves the slide away, or forward. It took me a while to work out!!
cheers and thanks for the nice words!!
Some time ago I was fortunate enough to buy a Schaublin 70 turret lathe. It occurred to me that Schaublin proudly boasts that parts and assemblies are interchangeable, between, for instance their toolroom lathes and their turret lathes, so wouldn't it be a good thing to have a carriage and compound slide to use on odd occasions. So I looked around for a secondhand "Chariot a vis" (Schaublins terminology). The cheapest I saw was EU1,600 plus postage. So I thought "Crikey....I'll roll my own". Using data derived from on line drawings and manuals a series of drawings were produced, which represented a simplified but similar size assembly. Original features which were not incorporated are
1/ Pressure oiling, the original features a very complex network of oilways, all fed from a single point. Wonderful for a machine which is used a lot, but not so practical for occasional use.
2/ Taper gibs. Initially I couldn't see how to organise this. It wasn't until metal was cut that the penny dropped.
3/ The original used 6.5mm x 1.0mm trapezoidal thread leadscrews. I couldn't source appropriate taps and dies to do this, at least without eating for a year. So I used M6 x 1.0, I had to make 6 of them before I got two acceptable ones though!
So after about a year of drawing and machining it's almost finished, just a few odds and ends to do and it' ready to go. I have installed it on the Schaublin and it works quite well. All the machining was done on my Sieg C3 lathe and Sieg X2 mill. The four main bits were grey cast iron...Meehanite. The gib strips are silver steel, with pegs and lockscrews.
Edited By Bill Pudney on 17/01/2019 04:40:02
|Thread: ball turning|
I recently made a couple of three ball handles for a small carriage and cross slide I've had underway for a while. To avoid the making of a ball turner, which would probably only be used twice, I adapted Guy Lautards method in one of his books. The process went something like......
1/ Draw the required handles in CAD, in my case TurboCad. Identify the max ball diameter as a datum.
2/ Draw a line parallel to the datum, 0.5mm away from it, record the diameter, and enter the number on a chart.
3/ Repeat stage 2/ until end of circle, thus creating a set of co-ordinates
4/ Set up dial indicator on carriage to measure diameter reduction
5/ Using a sharp, rigid parting tool, line up left side of cutter on the part datum, move slide towards tailstock by the appropriate amount, in my case 0.5mm, and plunge in the amount indicated. Repeat.
6/ Using a well chalked, sharp file remove the steps produced and polish with oily wet and dry.
7/ Repeat for the other balls. There are a LOT of little steps.
This is obviously a vastly shortened version of the real process. But I was able to make my two three ball handles in a morning. The CAD work and developing the process took a while though.
I will ask the Chief Photographer to provide a couple of pictures of the finished handles.
|Thread: Measurements from the past|
In the early 70s, I spent some time as a Work Study Engineer. We used mechanical digital stopwatches, where a full turn of the hand was one minute and the dial was calibrated in 1/100 of a minute. It was fairly easy to read the watch to 0.01 of a minute, very quickly and accurately. Of course the calculations "back in the office" were so much easier with decimal minutes. We also used slide rules as electronic calculators hadn't been invented yet, but that's another story......
|Thread: Mill tooling runouts|
Over the Christmas break I had to take my mini lathe apart. It seemed like a good opportunity to check and adjust the spindle alignment. I chose to use "Rollies Dads Method", as described by John Moran. This requires using a DTI to measure the out of truth of a suitable test bar.
My initial setup used traditional, fair quality (mixture of MW, Mitutoyo, Starret) DTI holders etc. Well what a performance, I was thoroughly confused with conflicting and non repeatable measurements. I came to the conclusion that the problem was flexibility in the DTI holding system.
So I made a special DTI holder, with reamed holes to take the DTIs, mounted on top of the compound slide using the thread which normally secures the toolpost. Both Indicators could be mounted at the same time. What a difference!
No more conflicting measurements, all (well o.k....most) measurements were repeatable, within a very short time I had the out of truth of the spindle down to acceptable limits, approx 0.04mm over 300mm both vertically and horizontally.
The acid test of course was the cutting test, which showed an error of less than 0.01mm (graduations on my best micrometer) over a 100mm test length. The actual error, given the equipment to measure it, would probably be between 0.004 to 0.006mm. Pretty good I reckon for a 12 year old, much used Chinese pre assembled kit!!
All provided by a rigid system!!
Happy New Year
|Thread: Merry Christmas Delivery|
Chris, being dopey, I prefer to think that AET have their own special fleet of couriers.........
Last Saturday 15/12/18 I placed a small order with ArcEuroTrade, expecting that delivery wouldn't be until sometime in the New Year, because of the silly season. Imagine my surprise when there was a knock at the door from the postie with my package!! I reckon 6 days from the UK to Australia is pretty good, especially when Australia Post seems to find it difficult to deliver a standard letter from Melbourne to Adelaide in under a week!!
So, not for the first time thanks ArcEuroTrade!!
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.