Here is a list of all the postings macmarch has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Big Boy in 2-1/2" and O gauge|
May I suggest either of these 2 books.
Big Boy by William W. Kratville 1972 ( no ISBN)
Train Shed Cyclopedia No 47 ISBN 0-912318-79-5
The first is a history of the class, the second has dimensioned drawings that may serve for your needs.
|Thread: Round Aluminium|
Have a word with a company called LOCATE Supplies. I believe they have a depot not far from you. They can probably do you a length of suitable tube.
|Thread: New Look|
|Thread: Spindle taper...|
I don't like 'metric' but how about going R8 and get an R8 to MT3 adapter?
|Thread: Is this the trend in small locos?|
Thats exactly what I am doing. I started out to build a Caribou but with the regulations and the like I have installed a wheelchair DC Motor complete with the control gear. Bags of space in the 'boiler'.
|Thread: Drilling 316 stainless|
I make several items in quantity in 316. The secret is to BE BOLD. Speed a little less than normal, Feed very firm and keep it going, the drill, and any cutting edge needs to cut 316 not rub. PLENTY of cutting oil. If the drill is having a problem it will tell you by making a sound as though it has broken in the hole. Drill out, clear the swarf, add oil and plunge back in. This is the point where you must get the drill cutting as quick as possible, no need to ram it in just get push to get a cut going otherwise it will work harden. I use a 3.5mm drill for about 70 holes.
|Thread: Copper boilers and Stainless steel bolts|
You may find this relevant, particularly page 3, paragraph 3
Edited By JasonB on 22/08/2013 19:04:53
|Thread: Milling tooth load|
Wouldn't shoot you down on that one Trevor. That's what I was told when an apprentice. Works with all cutting tools. Just lose sight of the individual teeth. Bit slower for stainless etc bit faster for non ferrous. Allways keep a cut on so the teeth do not rub. I always preferred to be on the mills.
|Thread: Dismantling a Warco Minor Mill|
re Warco Minor Mill (RF-20/25)
RF20/25 sounds more like a Chester unit. Either way have a look on Grizzly.com. you should find your machine there.
|Thread: Warco GH1322 start up|
I have the BH600. Great machine with everything in the right place. Only had two problems. 1) The control lever was too low, it caught in the pocket of my workshop jacket. 2) The motor. I changed over to a VFD drive and what a difference. No need for a clutch. When I am screwing the head will stop in a 1/4 turn at 100 rpm.
|Thread: drilling steel with 230v hand drill|
This sounds like a high tensile bolt. If it is then the 8mm drill would hve gone down the 'core'. The next drill will be trying to go through the toughened part. Drill gets hot, edge goes, bolt material work hardens. TCT drill running very slow might break the hardened skin.
|Thread: John Wilding Regulator|
I'll go with that. As an engineer of more years than I like to remember, the 'fit' of pivots in holes and meshing of gear teeth in clocks is horrifying. However, if you think about the almost non-existent power impulse from the escapement wheel to the pendulum, then even ceramic bearings have a bigger rolling resistance, per ball, than the impulse power, add some lubrication and its even worse. As in locomotive building, if the axle bearings rattle then it will run forever.
I'm relatively new to building clocks but as I understand it, pinions mesh with involute teeth and lanterns mesh with triangular teeth.
|Thread: Crobalt Tool Alloy|
Ah! Stellite. Wonderful stuff, I still use it often. Very expensive though.
|Thread: Live Steam Big Boy locomotive|
Does anyone know where the "Big Boy" that was at Dobwalls "The Forest Railway" ended up?
I was fortunate enough to be there the first week that it ran. 7 1/4" pulling 50 plus, magnificent sight.
Edited By macmarch on 01/07/2013 17:15:15
|Thread: Taps and dies|
Don't forget:- Kirjeng. 17, Gables Lea Sutton Bonnington, LE12 5NW. Tel: 01509 672025.
He doesn't have a website but a phone call will get you his catalogue. For T & Dies you can have Carbon or HSS
|Thread: Turning Perspex rod|
Well, you learn something new every day. Didn't know about flame polishing Perspex.
When I was an apprentice we made marine equipment that had perspex components. Some of these were glued together. The chemi lab made up the 'glue' , this was a colourless liquid Araldite that had a usable life of about 10 minutes. It was a question of paint the sufaces, bond, clamp together then leave for 24 hours. Parts were often stuck the wrong way round etc. Up to the canteen to get 1 pint boiling water into which about 20 catering tea bags was stewed for an hour or so. Overnight this softened the araldite .
|Thread: Drawings for the Eureka relieving attachment for hobs|
You will find it most interesting to make. It took me a while to suss out exactly where the 4 centre holes go. In the end I faced off the ends and drew them in. Mine is made all in EN3a. When I use it I give it a large dollop of grease, after all it is only turning at about 100rpm.
When I went to make my first cutter I realised that the longest bit is making the blanks, so I made a load of blanks and cut the clearance grooves. They only need to be faced off to the required thickness.
Edited By macmarch on 13/10/2012 10:20:17
Going back on this thread what you need is this
Think I got the link right.
|Thread: Taper Pin|
This should help
|Thread: Machining Aluminium Plate|
6082 is the equivalent of the old HE30. It machines well, but not as well as 6262. It doesn't like to be bent but is available in all forms. As its for a house sign then I presume you will, or have it, anodised. Any of the 6xxx alloys are fine but painting Ali is difficult, it needs a good etch and primer.
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