Member postings for Lambton

Peter,

If the rear bearings are in good condition and have been correctly pre-loaded together then it should be possible to adjust the position of this pair of bearings to produce zero end float. Make sure that you carry out the instruction 3 on page 26 of the manual as carefully as possible. It is worth giving the spindle a light tap with a hide mallet the "seat" the bearings which may be sticking on the mandrel (or outer housing) a bit then test for end float again. It is helpful to have the catch plate on the mandrel at this stage as it gives you something to grasp and tap against when checking the end float. Also it will protect the threads and register of the mandrel nose. It is wise to check for lack of end float after the lathe has been used for a short time and re adjust if necessary.. Just take your time. and all will be well.

Eric

A Dictionary of Scientific Units by H G Jerrard and D B McNeill states:

“ Mil(length). A unit of length equal to 1/1000 inch. The name was given to the unit by James Cocker (Liverpool) in 1858 but did not come into general use until its appearance in The Journal of the Institute of Telegraph Engineers in 1872. A thousandth of an inch is also called a thou”

Eric

+ for using a sine bar and slip blocks.

May I refer any one interested to:

1. Model Engineer 4328 article by Maurice Turnbull on how to make a simple jig for using these items :and:
2. Model Engineer 4346 my follow up article about the use of Maurice's article.

If carefully made this jig enables very accurate setting of the top slide for cutting small angle.

Eric

Vic,

Despite what is printed in Zeus or similar tables here is not a "correct" single tapping size for any thread. There is a range of tapping sizes for any particular thread and the one to be chosen depends on a number of considerations such as the material being tapped, the application of the fastening, dimensions of the male thread etc. Tapping sizes in such tables are usually based on providing 70% thread engagement suitable for "general engineering".

I recommend anyone who wants to know how to select which tapping size to use should buy a copy of Drills, Taps and Dies by Tubal Cain (Workshop Practice series No 12). This has extensive tables showing the range of suitable tapping drills together with the % engagement for each. There is whole chapter (8 page 62) on selecting tapping drills.

Eric

Ian,

Is the chuck mounted on a back plate or is the thread cut directly into the chuck body?

Eric

Did you know that NHS Hospitals have to pay business rates?

I queried this with my MP who obtained confirmation of this from Rishi Sunak MP then Minister for Local Government.

Is the tool set dead on center height?

It is about time that all German car manufactures stopped putting mainly useless gimmicks in their cars and concentrated on providing good honest products that give good value for money and reasonable priced servicing.

Jeff

I am sending you a PM please look out for the inbox flashing on the top green row of option.

Eric

Russell,

It is a crude type of adjustable wrench little used in this country but were once popular on the Continent.

A German engineer I once worked with contemptuously referred to it as "a Frenchman" - which says it all really!

Eric

+1 for the "no ring" sealing method described by Duncan Webster.

After reading the explanation of how this labyrinth seal system works in Henry Greenly's excellent book "Model engineering dating from 1915 (pages 117-119) I have used it for several model engines with great success.

Eric

My late Father, an expert toolmaker, taught me:

• don't measure a drill by its shank
• seldom will any drill produce an accurately sized hole
• always finish with an approptiate reamer to get an accurate hole.

This good advice has stood me in good stead for over 50 years.

Eric

Robin,

Keep them and use them. I have bought several sets of these from ARC and find them very good. They reduce the risk of tap breakage in smaller sizes and reduce the effort needed especially in larger size e.g. 12mm.

I appreciate that all three have to be used in sequence but this is no trouble unless you are tapping a lot of holes.

Eric

David,

"but second hand just isn’t my thing."

Why?

I would recommend some English made classic drill presses that I have used over the years. Fobco Star, Meddings, Startright. Elliot etc.
None of these suffered from the problem that you are experiencing. If you are a bit patient you will find a second-hand one of these makes in good condition.

I have owned a Meddings MB4 for 30 years and it totally rigid ( also very heavy) and15 very accurate - a pleasure to use.. I also inherited a Clarke drill similar to yours that has exactly the same fault so it only gets used occasionally with a Honda scissor jack supporting the front of the table.

I have found that most Far Eastern drills are very inferior to older English made ones most of which are now, sadly only obtainable second hand

Eric

Phil,

The first item is a M&W triangular scraper which is part of a set of three small scrapers the others being a flat scraper and curved one. They are very desirable.

Can't help with the Mitutoyo dial calliper but like you say it was probably a standard item modified for some special purpose.

Eric

The first book I bought (many years ago now) and found very useful was Using The Small Lathe by L C Mason. It takes the new lathe owner through all the turning methods likely to be needed. Very readable and superbly informative.

Also +1 for 'The Amateur's Lathe' by L h Sparey especially f you intend buying a Myford lathe.

.As you gain experience try The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual by G H Thomas.

Good luck

Eric

I have sent you a PM

Eric

Are you sure the material is ABS?

I have worked with ABS for may years and have never found any difficulty in drilling holes in it using normal jobbers drills other than a bit of "rag" sometimes on the exit side. The material sown it the photo looks as if it has a lot of filler in it.

Eric

Noel,

I have sent you a PM

Eric

Bob,

You are correct.

Fortunately Morse taper drill chuck arbors, threaded to take a drawbar, are readily available in common sizes and threads.

You can also buy a screw in tang for such arbors giving the best of both worlds.

I have bought several from Arc at very reasonable price sand have been very happy with them. (other suppliers may be available).

Eric