Here is a list of all the postings Lambton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: magic 127 TOOTH ?|
I have sent you a PM - please look for the flashing " inbox" button near the top left of the page.
|Thread: Ml7 New Owner.|
Get yourself a genuine Myford manual for your model of lathe. Original manuals are available from Myford, second-hand on eBay or even a free download as a PDF.
There are significant differences between the ML7 and the Super 7 so the hand books are specific to the actual model
Best of luck
|Thread: Stuart S50 (Want to cry)|
Keep on complaining to the supplier, and ask if replacement castings will be soft enough to be machines on small machines using HSS tooling. Get them to test the replacement casting with a file before despatching it.
There are age old reasons why glass hard castings happen. It is usually due to the metal being cooled too quickly which is totally within the control of the casing company. Suppliers of castings for model engineering castings charge very high prices for very small and mostly simple items. They appear to have the familiar police of allowing the customer to do their quality control and simply supply a replacement part and hope the customer will be placated.
Ransoms used to deliberately chill the working face of plough shares in order to give them longer life - a very good reason for produce deliberately hard zones.
Do not accept any excuses such as all casting have hard skins and an initial heavy cut should be take to "get below the skin
Any caster selling you glass hard castings are not doing the job properly.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Apron removal|
It would be a great help to you to lay your hands on a Genuine Myford handbook for the QC gearbox.. This details how to fit the gearbox to various typed of S7. The instructions are fully detailed and should be easy to reverse..
|Thread: my first lathe.|
In the bigger picture of the strange tool post I notice that at least one of the top slide - cross slide securing screws is very loose. All four screws must tight ( but not over tightened). It is essential to eliminate all looseness if you are to get a good consistent cut.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Metric thread cutting gears|
Jasper I have sent you a personal message Please look at green INBOX button the top of the page which should be flashing
The first thing that you should do is get a proper Myford handbook for your model of lathe. Obtainable to buy from Myford **LINK**
PDFs of the handbook can be down loaded free from the net.
It is difficult to cut metric threads on a gearbox fitted Super 7 without having the correct gears and A2469 quadrant. However no lathe with an imperial lead screw can ever cut true metric threads unless a 127 change wheel is used in the gear train.
33 and 34 tooth gears can be used by fitting either in place of the 24 tooth driver gear from the tumbler reverse output and then selecting the appropriate gear box TPI setting (see chart which includes other gears that provide the most accurate metric threads possible Separate post.
|Thread: Hobbymat MD65 clone tailstock alignemnt|
"Tailstock is exact copy of the one on hobbymat md65.It is a one piece. Any ideas on how to align it? "
Your tailstock, and the rest of the lathe, is probably an inferior copy of the excellent Hobbymat MD65.
If the design is similar then there is no way that you can adjust the alignment of either the tailstock or the headstock. It is possible to adjust the "fit" of the tailstock to the lathe bed to ensure smooth and secure movement but this will not alter the basic alignment.
Why are clones of good machines made? Probably to make a cheaper product without going to the trouble of getting the manufacture correct. Then all that is produced is an inferior "look a like" .
I have owned a genuine Hobbymat for nearly 20 years and have found it to be accurate in every respect.
|Thread: Surface Mount Switch|
Colin, you are correct the Amazon switch referred to by Journeyman is not suitable for proving NVR to very simple machines that have just plain on/off stiches. To provide NVR here must be latching relay in the on circuit that keeps the power on to the machine unless either the off or emergency switch is operated. If the power goes off remotely the relay "drops out" cutting power to the machine and the machine cannot self restart. If the E stop has a rotating knob which stays down when activated this must be reset by twisting it to make it pop out. The machine can them be started normally.
Axminster provide a very simple NVR switch "Unimac magnetic switch" that incorporates a relay that provide NVR but not an E switch. I have had one for many years on a fearsome Duet woodworking machine via a foot switch with every satisfaction.
To do the job properly you should consider fitting a Direct online motor starter + E stop as this set up would provide protection for motor should it become overloaded.
|Thread: What are these pliers for|
Searching my 1953 Buck & Hickman I found a picture of some pliers (Fig 2116 page 185) looking just like those in David's pictures.
The item is called Quick-Grip Pliers
" A handy tool for the motorist, cyclist, engineer, plumber, gasfitter, electric light fitter, watchmaker and every trade where nuts are used. Self adjusting."
Two sixes 6" priced at 2/7 and 7" priced at 2/10
Must be about the most universal tool ever made !
|Thread: How to repair old King Dick socket extension?|
I have sent you a PM. Please look out for the green INBOX flashing at the top of the page.
Further to my previous post King Dick still exist in England as a maker of all sorts of spanners, socket etc. so it maybe worth giving them a call 01675 467 778 email@example.com
On closer examination the bearing on my extension bar to be held in by a brass ring.
Hope this helps.
I have an identical King Dick socket set to yours contained in a blue painted steel case complete with sockets, also extension bar, sliding T bar and a very neat ratchet handle all of have the same arrangement for the retaining ball.
john Pace undoubtedly illustrated the general arrangement.
I have measured/estimated the ball as being 5/32" diameter - a standard size cycle bearing. I believe after comparing your very clear photos with my extension bar et.al. that you are only missing a spring and the 5/32" ball.
Once you have obtained replacements you will need to somehow peen the edges of the insert around the ball by compressing it into its housing and use a centre punch to slightly distort the rim of the housing. Use an automatic punch as it can be used one-handed - Mind your eyes when attempting this. The "factory" peening on my three bars is very neat obviously done in one operation using a form tool - simple but very hard to exactly replicate in the workshop.
You are quite correct this is a very nice and workmanlike socket set representing British Engineering at its best.
|Thread: Dewhurst reversing switches|
A few years ago I wrote, and had published, in Engineering In Miniature (July 2014 Vol. 36 No1) an article entitled Protecting a Dewhurst Switch, the Lathe and Yourself ".
The article covers the limitations of a Dewhurst switch and how to combine it with a DOL starter providing No-Volt release, and having normally closed contacts in the start hold-on circuit, how any number of safety stops and interlocks. can be easily provided.
Crucially the Dewhurst is then used only to select motor direction of rotation and nothing else.
I wrote this article as many hundreds,, or maybe thousands, of Dewhurst switches remain in use on older Myford lathes and other small machines. and can be made to work safety and effectively.
I am not sure if EIM provide general access to published articles. .It is also fully appreciated that modern control gear that eliminates Dewhurst type switches is available.
|Thread: 4 jaw Self centering chuck recommendations please|
I have two TOS 4 jaw self cantering chucks; one on a small lathe and the other on a Myford S7. Both are of excellent quality and dead accurate.
Get yourself a Myford manual for your machine. It will tell you all that you need to know to get started with the lathe.
|Thread: Small-power engineering.|
Looking through some pre-war Practical Mechanics magazines, published monthly and edited by the famous FJ Camm, I came across a notification of the September 1935 Model Engineer Exhibition that included the following:
Readers interested in model aeroplanes, model railways model boats model engineering and small-power engineering should make a point of visiting the Model Engineer Exhibition which takes place at the Horticultural Hall Westminster, London SW1 ……
What made me think about this notice was the words “small-power engineering” as I think this is a perfect description of our hobby as really this is exactly what we are about regardless of the actual end product.
|Thread: Tyres for bandsaw|
Try contacting Clarke spares department especially if you have a "Clarke" badged version of a Far Eastern machine. I inherited a Warco 3 wheel 14" band saw that required replacement wheel bands. I contacted Warco who were of no help as they said my band saw was obsolete so I contacted Clarke spare who provided me with 3 wheel bands by return of post and at a very reasonable price.
|Thread: Changing Tapers on an Arrand boring head.|
I have an old Arrand catalogue dated 2003 in which it states -
"Boring heads have interchangeable shanks. Threaded interchangeable shanks are available (see chart opposite) so boring head can be used on machines with different tapers , or if you change you machine, a nrew shank can easily fitted to suit."
The "chart opposite) list a wide variety of shanks not just Morse taper ones.
Very unfortunately, Arrand ceased trading some years ago probably because of Far Eastern completion
|Thread: Taper pins|
It is not good engineering practice to fit a taper pin in a parallel hole. Proper taper pin reamers (not drills) are made..
There are both imperial and metric standards for taper pins. It is worth getting the correct pin and reamer as your application is obviously important to you.
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