Here is a list of all the postings Lambton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Surface Mount Switch|
Colin, you are correct the Amazon switch referred to by Journeyman is not suitable for proving NVR to very simple machines that have just plain on/off stiches. To provide NVR here must be latching relay in the on circuit that keeps the power on to the machine unless either the off or emergency switch is operated. If the power goes off remotely the relay "drops out" cutting power to the machine and the machine cannot self restart. If the E stop has a rotating knob which stays down when activated this must be reset by twisting it to make it pop out. The machine can them be started normally.
Axminster provide a very simple NVR switch "Unimac magnetic switch" that incorporates a relay that provide NVR but not an E switch. I have had one for many years on a fearsome Duet woodworking machine via a foot switch with every satisfaction.
To do the job properly you should consider fitting a Direct online motor starter + E stop as this set up would provide protection for motor should it become overloaded.
|Thread: What are these pliers for|
Searching my 1953 Buck & Hickman I found a picture of some pliers (Fig 2116 page 185) looking just like those in David's pictures.
The item is called Quick-Grip Pliers
" A handy tool for the motorist, cyclist, engineer, plumber, gasfitter, electric light fitter, watchmaker and every trade where nuts are used. Self adjusting."
Two sixes 6" priced at 2/7 and 7" priced at 2/10
Must be about the most universal tool ever made !
|Thread: How to repair old King Dick socket extension?|
I have sent you a PM. Please look out for the green INBOX flashing at the top of the page.
Further to my previous post King Dick still exist in England as a maker of all sorts of spanners, socket etc. so it maybe worth giving them a call 01675 467 778 email@example.com
On closer examination the bearing on my extension bar to be held in by a brass ring.
Hope this helps.
I have an identical King Dick socket set to yours contained in a blue painted steel case complete with sockets, also extension bar, sliding T bar and a very neat ratchet handle all of have the same arrangement for the retaining ball.
john Pace undoubtedly illustrated the general arrangement.
I have measured/estimated the ball as being 5/32" diameter - a standard size cycle bearing. I believe after comparing your very clear photos with my extension bar et.al. that you are only missing a spring and the 5/32" ball.
Once you have obtained replacements you will need to somehow peen the edges of the insert around the ball by compressing it into its housing and use a centre punch to slightly distort the rim of the housing. Use an automatic punch as it can be used one-handed - Mind your eyes when attempting this. The "factory" peening on my three bars is very neat obviously done in one operation using a form tool - simple but very hard to exactly replicate in the workshop.
You are quite correct this is a very nice and workmanlike socket set representing British Engineering at its best.
|Thread: Dewhurst reversing switches|
A few years ago I wrote, and had published, in Engineering In Miniature (July 2014 Vol. 36 No1) an article entitled Protecting a Dewhurst Switch, the Lathe and Yourself ".
The article covers the limitations of a Dewhurst switch and how to combine it with a DOL starter providing No-Volt release, and having normally closed contacts in the start hold-on circuit, how any number of safety stops and interlocks. can be easily provided.
Crucially the Dewhurst is then used only to select motor direction of rotation and nothing else.
I wrote this article as many hundreds,, or maybe thousands, of Dewhurst switches remain in use on older Myford lathes and other small machines. and can be made to work safety and effectively.
I am not sure if EIM provide general access to published articles. .It is also fully appreciated that modern control gear that eliminates Dewhurst type switches is available.
|Thread: 4 jaw Self centering chuck recommendations please|
I have two TOS 4 jaw self cantering chucks; one on a small lathe and the other on a Myford S7. Both are of excellent quality and dead accurate.
Get yourself a Myford manual for your machine. It will tell you all that you need to know to get started with the lathe.
|Thread: Small-power engineering.|
Looking through some pre-war Practical Mechanics magazines, published monthly and edited by the famous FJ Camm, I came across a notification of the September 1935 Model Engineer Exhibition that included the following:
Readers interested in model aeroplanes, model railways model boats model engineering and small-power engineering should make a point of visiting the Model Engineer Exhibition which takes place at the Horticultural Hall Westminster, London SW1 ……
What made me think about this notice was the words “small-power engineering” as I think this is a perfect description of our hobby as really this is exactly what we are about regardless of the actual end product.
|Thread: Tyres for bandsaw|
Try contacting Clarke spares department especially if you have a "Clarke" badged version of a Far Eastern machine. I inherited a Warco 3 wheel 14" band saw that required replacement wheel bands. I contacted Warco who were of no help as they said my band saw was obsolete so I contacted Clarke spare who provided me with 3 wheel bands by return of post and at a very reasonable price.
|Thread: Changing Tapers on an Arrand boring head.|
I have an old Arrand catalogue dated 2003 in which it states -
"Boring heads have interchangeable shanks. Threaded interchangeable shanks are available (see chart opposite) so boring head can be used on machines with different tapers , or if you change you machine, a nrew shank can easily fitted to suit."
The "chart opposite) list a wide variety of shanks not just Morse taper ones.
Very unfortunately, Arrand ceased trading some years ago probably because of Far Eastern completion
|Thread: Taper pins|
It is not good engineering practice to fit a taper pin in a parallel hole. Proper taper pin reamers (not drills) are made..
There are both imperial and metric standards for taper pins. It is worth getting the correct pin and reamer as your application is obviously important to you.
|Thread: Myford ML7 - Size of Mandrel Through Drilling?|
I have a standard bore Super 7. I have never actually measure the bore as I already know the answer - Not big enough!
|Thread: Problem with penetrating oil can|
I used WD 40 for years - until I discovered GT85 which is much better in general.. Mainly used by motor bike and cycling enthusiast. Still has the traditional spray and push-in tube arrangements. Halfords sell it and so do quite a few on-line sellers.
|Thread: Threading 1/8 stainless steel|
You have received lots of good advice about gripping the job and die adjustment .
May I recommend that you try Ambersil "Tufcut" lubricant .that is specifically formulated for turning, drilling, reaming thread cutting and tapping tough materials such as titanium, stainless steel, high tensile steel and high carbon steels. I have used it for years with every success. It is available from Cromwell Tools or most other good tool suppliers.
II have no connection with Ambersil other than as a very satisfied user of Tufcut.
|Thread: M&W Straight-Edge Set|
I have a 1965 M&W catalogue that refers to : part No 315TP as Black Glass test piece only 30/- each. (£1.50 )
I hope this is of help.
|Thread: Bring and buy sale|
I went to this year's sale on Saturday and found it very good. Lots of stands with a wide variety of stuff on offer.
I took a small amount of surplus items and sold a reasonable quantity.
The only snag was the deplorable state of the public roads going to and from the sales ground. Endless pot holes and large areas of worn-out surfaces. I came back via Quainton - a most uncomfortable journey. The local highways agency should be ashamed of themselves.
I appreciate that this is beyond the control or influence of the sale organisers.
|Thread: odd thread|
0.156"= 4.0 mm
4.0 mm diameter X 0.5mm pitch is a standard metric Fine thread. Yes it will look very fine.
I find it is best to avoid any confusion by sticking to either imperial or metric dimensions.
|Thread: Strange Myford Motor Fault|
You may not have a motor problem at all.
You may have some end float in the spindle allowing it to be pushed back into the front tapered bearing bush thus stalling the whole job. The design of the S7 headstock, when set up correctly, is to have absolutely no end float. but retaining free rotation.
Check by trying to push/ pull the chuck backwards and forwards preferably using a DTI to detect any movement.
Adjust the spindle very carefully according to pages 24 - 26 in the Myford handbook. It is essential to make the adjustments in the correct order. Study the instruction carefully before making any adjustments.
A correctly adjusted spindle should have zero end float with a very small clearance in the front bearing - just enough to allow free movement and for an oil film to form.
|Thread: Just Done Something Stupid!!|
I cannot help you with advice on the particular problem you have, however please rest assured that we have all made stupid mistakes at some time or other and lived to tell the tale.
My old Dad, long gone now, was a time served toolmaker used to say to me " the man that has never made a mistake has never made anything"
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