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Member postings for Johan van Zanten

Here is a list of all the postings Johan van Zanten has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: NAMES 2017 photos
22/04/2017 14:20:58

Hi Jason,

Thanks for the link. I found some nice photos of the Allman engine.

Best regards, Johan.

Thread: Editing member profile
19/04/2017 14:56:28

Job done !

Thanks both of you.

Best regards, Johan.

19/04/2017 11:53:11

How do I edit my member profile / More about me?

Thread: David Parkers Vega Twin Fourstroke - Air intake /carburettor question
24/03/2017 18:03:15

Hi Steve,

I have no special knolidge about the Vega but I am afraid the carbs getting too hot, causing vapour lock. You have to use an insulating sleve between the head and the carb. This is the usual practize on model aircraft engines.

Best regards, Johan.

Thread: Motor recommendations
10/03/2017 10:51:02

Hi Nick,

Single phase motors make a humming noise, wich is different from bearing noise. This is caused by the way they work and is called cogging noise. That's why manufacturers like Brooks mount their motors in silent rubbers. Two phase motors ( with a running capacitor ) behave a little better at this point. 3 phase motors are quiet. But all motors can have bad bearings wich makes a rumbling sound.

Best regards, Johan.

Thread: Why don't we make models of things like this?
06/03/2017 16:16:08

Small battery charger  4Fairbanks-Morse RE   /9Stuart 10v with ships dynamo  / 1Liliput   /3Generator 12 Volt / 4 Amps.    /3

Some generatorsets made in the Netherlands.

Thread: Coaxial indicator
18/11/2016 16:42:48

Hi Piero, I made one myself. Can be very small and works great. See. http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3776.0. Best regards, Johan.

Thread: fairbanks 3 cylinder
24/06/2016 21:53:32

Hi Kevin, Some years ago I made one in scale 1:10. See my album. http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_album.asp?a=6778 Regards, Johan.

Thread: Tumble Roller for cleaning parts
24/05/2016 07:17:19

Hi John, Good tip! I'll try next time.

22/05/2016 13:59:13

Hi Martin,

When you tumble brass parts with stainless steel medium (as on the picture) you get a grey haze on the surface of your workpiece caused by the rubbing of the s.s. When you use commercial available hard steel needles or satellite’s there is no noticeable discolouration. When you tumble steel parts with brass medium the steel workpieces comes out light yellow. Ceramic medium causes no discolouration but due the dimensions of the stones it is difficult to reach the corners of your workpiece. I hope this answers your question.

Best regards, Johan.

21/05/2016 16:29:01

Hi all,

I follow the tumbler discussion on this forum for some time but I think it is not that easy to get good results. I made my tumbler 20 years ago and use it very frequent with good results. The driving unit is a geared fractional horsepower motor with a speed of about 100 rpm.dsc03856.jpg

My drums are made from sewage tubes with a diameter of 120 mm, carefully covered with rubber sheet.

dsc03857.jpg

dsc03860.jpg

They are half way filled with medium made from offcuts stainless steel . The sharp edges are essential to reach the corners of the workpiece. I use one spoon of siliciumcarbide grit as abrasive.

dsc03859.jpg

dsc03858.jpg

To lubricate the process I use a cup of water with a spoon of washing soda. The tumbling time varies depending on the workpiece between 12 and 20 hours. For a brass or bronze workpieces I use brass medium. Tumbling is ideal for (silver)soldered workpieces. The parts of my latest engine are tumbled for 15 hours direct from the mill. I am looking for a reasonable priced bowl for a vibratory tumbler. This shortens the operation time.

As you see there are happy tumblers in the model engineering world.

dsc03862.jpg

Best regards,

Johan.

20/05/2016 07:07:13

Hi Martin,

I use houshold soda. One spoon per liter. Cleans great,No foam at all.

Best regards, Johan.

Thread: Centaur gas engine valve springs
05/02/2016 18:25:25

Hi Maurice, I se nobody answers your question. I never build the Centaur engine but lost of other designs. I think 300 to 600 grams is more than enough. Don't use needless strong springs to prevent exessive wear on the cams. Succes with your engine. Regards, Johan.

Thread: DRO is driving me crazy.
27/12/2015 12:09:52

Hi Rik, I think John is right. By connecting both scales to your mill you create a ground loop via the cables and the readout unit. This makes the readout sensitieve for spikes generated by the motor driver unit. Electrical insulating one or both scales from the mill meigt help solving the problem. You can easily try it by using some electrical tape. Regards, Johan.

Thread: Leadscrew cover/guard
02/09/2015 09:55:39

What about this?Swarf guard

Thread: balata flat belt
18/05/2015 22:38:04

I used a timing belt from my car inside out for years. Works fine!

Thread: Emco FB-2 Manual
03/03/2015 12:52:49

Hi Andrew, Go to www.emco.or.at Click machinen, Emco, service anleitung, Fraisemachinen, Emco fb2 and you find a free download of the user maual and the service manual in the German language.

Regards, Johan.

Thread: An electrostatic mystery ...
02/03/2015 08:13:59

Hi Ian and John,

Do you mean the radiometer from Crookes?


**LINK**

Regards, Johan.

Thread: Making Piston Rings
18/08/2014 16:33:55

Hi Dave,

I am not a steam specialist but have made many piston rings for IC engines. I Always use the Trimble formula. The thicknes of the ring should be between .040 and .045 of the bore diameter. For a bore of 38 mm the ring should be 1.67 mm thick. This is rather critical! To thin and there is not enough wall pressure, to thick and you have to much installation stress (broken ring). The gap should be .15 times the bore, that is about 5.3 mm in your case. The hight of the ring is not inportant. I should go for 1.5 a 2 times the thickness. in your case `2.5 a 3.5 mm. for a steam cylinder. I Always use continous cast iron bar.

I wish you succes with the make of new pistons and rings.

Kind regards, Johan.

Thread: Emco FB2
01/06/2013 19:14:21

As I read your mail I suppose the nuts are not the problem but the leadscrews. They wear on the most used position and create backlash. When you try to correct this the nut jams on the less used position creating more wear on the nuts. You can only correct the wear on the nuts ( at the less used position ) and NOT the wear on the leadscrew. Replacing the nuts only is of no use. To cure the problem you have to replace the leadscrew too.

Kind regards,

Johan.

Edited By Johan van Zanten on 01/06/2013 19:17:10

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